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The brake pads would be considered part of the Dana transaxle in which the model number of the tranny will be needed to look up that part.

Don't overlook the possibility of the afterfire solenoid on the carb failing.

Looks like the correct part number is hydro-gear 72134

The light bulb type testers are handy when dealing with heat failing coils, and are visible in bright light making them easy to see when the fail while you are mowing your yard with the customer mower for testing purposes.

This should be the spool https://www.partstree.com/parts/poulan-952711527/ And complete diagram for the head https://www.partstree.com/models/fl-20-weed-eater-featherlite-string-trimmer-type-1-2009-03/cutting-equipment-type-1-0/

The no hole primers used on Briggs engine are on the carb mounted on the top of the fuel tank, and when pushed inject raw fuel into the engine intake. The primer bulbs with the center hole are used to push air into the carb bowl which in turn forced fuel up the emulsion tube into the carb...

Something for consumers to keep in mind that present a unit to their local dealer and claim a warranty failure. Actual warranty payable manufacturer defects that your dealer gets paid for is 1-2 units out of every 200 units that the consumer claims should be a warranty item.

Parts are limited or not available in most cases for the consumer pressure washers. And in most cases even if you can repair the pump, a new pump isn't much more expensive then the part to repair the pump

Without the supply pump and a return pump it would be a wet sump engine and wouldn't be able to operate at angles past 25 or 30 degrees. In this case the limited factor for the angle of operation is actually the carb float. If it was EFI there basically wouldn't be an angle limit. Could...

I suspect the difference is the old part number is the low vent and the newer superceded part number of 790120 which according to Briggs is NLA would also require the replacement of the air filter mount.

Two oil pumps with remote mounted oil tank. one pump is full pressure lube to all the bearings, and the other oil pump, recovers the oil that drains from the bearings in the engine sump and pumps it back into the oil tank.

It can. Most engines are rated for a 25-30 degree slope with some as low as 20 degrees. Add in an oil level that is not at the full mark, and that safe angle drops dramatically.

The Kohler standard is less than 1 Volt And anything that drops the voltage at the starter solenoid below 9 volts won't engage the solenoid.

1999 or 2000 12A-559K401 or 12A-559K402

If you look at the metal flap hanging over the muffler in your picture. There is the start of a series of numbers That is the model, type and code for your engine.

Most of the time the fuel pickup coming from the top of the tank to the bottom is just a black hard or somewhat hard plastic line. And make sure you have a replacement grommet for the tank when you remove the fuel line insert since most of the time the grommet tears upon removal.

The engine that originally came on that mower had the 3/5 dual circuit non regulated charging system. The current engine is a 9 amp regulated system. So original wiring diagram for the mower will not be accurate for this application. And the fuse should be located in the area of the battery...

What is the model type and code from the metal flap on the engine. Sometimes the SBD model number can be located by cross referencing the engine model number.

Part number 699709 is the downward facing fuel solenoid but appears to supercede to 791230 which appears to be a side facing fuel solenoid.

Yes. The regulator has built in diodes that take the place in the wire. If you want you can disconnect the red connector at the VR, and run a wire directly that connector to the + battery connector and with the engine running see if the battery now is charging.

Is that a diode inside that shrink wrap on the front connector. I hope it isn't connected in series with the voltage regulator or it will never charge.

I think I still have the one around here that I made with an angle grinder using a flat piece of steel.

The big issue is making sure that seat properly when reinstalling after fueling, otherwise they like to dump the gas down your leg.

What is funny is that part number is also the part number for the MTD bagger.

May not of been meant for me, but the kohler fuel fllter wlll not damage your mower, and may even be a better filter than what is on there now. Have sold many of that exact part number over the years. Have used them on all brands of mowers over the past 28 years.

3 things to check. Is the new voltage regulator grounded The 5/9 regulator has a red and yellow wire that normally mounts next to the dipstick tube. There is a single screw that attaches it. There should be a grouding wire that attaches to the screw. Are you getting 12 volts from the wire...

Need to be careful about twisting the fuel line onto or off of fittings because with the modern low perm fuel lines it can damaged the plastic liner which causes it to collapse or break apart into pieces and end up in places that cause problems later.

I use this to pry most fuel lines loose from the fuel filter fittings. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/19620

According to Kohler your engine doesn't use the spark advance system it is a fixed timing CDI system Which uses two 24 584 45-S ignition modules. So neither one of the part numbers that you referenced apply to your engine.

What is the model and type of the briggs engine. The carb parts are ordered by model number of the engine. In some cases the carb numbers are used as a reference only when looking up the briggs part number

Lets not get the cart before the horse. What is the model and spec of your Courage engine so we can confirm that is actually the kit you need.

Compression test is not a good test for those style engines. Leakdown testing is the better test. Would tell you if you have compression leaks and were. With that age I would just remove the head and take a look at the cylinder walls looking for wear and a ridge at the top of the cylinder...

After 26 years I suspect that it is floating the intake valve and is not sealing. Over time the valve face and seat wear which results in the valve clearance getting narrower until it can not longer close the valve.

I would start by checking the fuses. Sounds like something shorted out and blew a fuse,

Im a HCP service center so have access to Husqvarna parts not exclusively used on Husqvarna branded products. If I tryt to purchase a Husqvarna exclusive part my distributor gives me the restricted warning.

So what model of mower and what engine do you have with model number if possible

My husqvarna distributor shows NLA also and they are an official Husqvarna distributor.

If it is a small hose that comes out the end of the elbow most likely that is the emission hose that connects to the either the top of the fuel tank or to a canister that looks like a small black box mounted to the engine that has another hose that connects to the top of the fuel tank.

160855 supercedes to 532138255

How many pins are present in the 6 pin white connector. Should have 5 pins used.

The blink style testers cannot be used connected between the spark plug wire and grounded. It takes like nothing to blink the light since the tester basically doesn't have any resistance. So from your description I would be replacing the coil.

Need the model and serial number from tag under seat. Is this a hydrostat or the 2 belt drive system with variable speed stack pulley. And if the 2 belt system I hope you replaced both belts.

Make sure the deck is not engaged. Will prevent cranking.

The stump from about 6 inches above ground level to the roots will include dirt, rocks and foreign material that will dull the chain quickly. The box store chains that everybody likes to buy is the lower grade of the 3 grades of chain that Oregon produces. First confirm what @MParr mentioned...

Which one of the thousands of Craftsman mowers that have been made over the last 80 years are you working on.

From your description either the bottom relay isn't operating or you are not getting power from the time delay module. Or possibly the time delay module isn't getting power from its source.

If you have a volt meter. Then connect the negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery. It will remain there for all the following testing. First connect the red test lead to the positive post of the battery, what is the voltage. Now engage the starter and what is the voltage. Now...

Remove all the wires that you connected to the starter and if you have a Ohm meter then put the red lead on the large lug furthest from the starter motor, and then touch the black lead to the case of the starter solenoid or starter body. Do you have 0 ohms or something close to that. If so...

My best guess is the large red from battery, the small red and the purple wire connect to the large starter solenoid lug furthest from the starter body. The large black and small black connect to a starter mounting bolt. The exciter wire connects to the spade terminal on the starter.

If you are trying to use the MTD website to look up the owners manual then you can put the model number in the proper field, and then put eight zeroes in the serial field.