Recent content by Rivets

I hope not.

To my knowledge Briggs does not publish a manual for the E series engine.

This manual should answer your question. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE

Engine numbers???

Some people swear by it and some swear at it. Use of fuel stabilizer or different oils has been debated here many times. I hope this doesn’t start another one.

If you are using good fuel, that has not been sitting around for more than 30 days, you should not have any problems. If this is the case I would recommend you go to a different supplier. Good ethanol fuel will not breakdown within 30 days.

Do you have a Chevy, Ford, Cummins, Briggs, Jacobson, Kohler or Wisconsin Robin engine? Also engine numbers would help. Due to COVID most of the techs on this site have lost the use of their ESP so we need you to provide us with a better picture of what you are talking about.

With an electric clutch, unplug the clutch, there should a plug within 8” of the clutch itself. Test the unit. If the blades are still engaged, my guess is the clutch is bad. If the blades are disengaged, bad PTO switch. Let us know what you find.

Don’t do emails, but from what you say my guess would be you have a problem with a safety switch or switches. Need to check that all are working properly, especially the seat safety.

Going to need more info before we can give you a direction to go. First we need engine numbers, so we know what you are talking about. Second, when you say “crank” what do you mean? Engine spins over but does not start or engine does not spin over? Third, have you checked for spark on both...

Did you go through the testing procedure described in the manual I posted?

Personally I wouldn’t do that. If there’s no way to hook the linkage to the carb, you’ve either have the wrong carb or a cheap junk carb. I’ve worked on Kohler’s for fifty years and this would be a first to me, having an OEM carb with no way to attach the linkage. Post your engine numbers and...

Only you can tell whether it is the correct part or not. Those bushings do have holes in them, do a google search with the part number and you’ll get a better picture. If you notice there are 5 different bushings so you must determine the correct size before ordering anything.

Take a look at this parts book and see if you can tell me the part number for the part you are looking for. https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/ServiceManuals/Onan%20P216-218-220%20onan-parts.pdf

Section 7 of this manual will tell you how to identify and test your charging system. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybHphbUNTQUNNR2s/view

I’d run it awhile and see if the problem persists.

Where ever you saw that was having many beers and meds at the same time and then tried to sound intelligent. They failed.

If it is burning oil in the cylinder you should see a difference in the plugs. Was it doing this before you changed the oil?

Here is the installation manual for that bagging system. Look to see if it looks like it will fit your tractor. Second option contact Sears at the number on the last page of the manual. https://usermanual.wiki/Craftsman/Craftsman91724903UsersManual160903.1415484716/view

Please post the engine numbers and the part number (if you have it) of the crank bushing.

Check your oil level. Pull both plugs and inspect them. Do they both look the same?

Trying to cut with a 30” mower on the landscaping you’re describing will be more work, not worth the minimal time savings. Also I would recommend a cast deck over the stamped steel deck, because it will last twice as long.

New one is under warranty, don’t touch it and have it serviced. Don’t keep throwing more money their way.

Maybe this will help, For the most part, all riding lawn mower batteries are the same size and voltage. In almost all instances, when you are replacing the battery you will need a 12-volt battery that is 7" to 8" long, 5" to 6" wide and 6" to 7" high -- the battery does not have to be snug in...

Try these steps. 1. Tire pressure 10 rear, 25 front. 2. Set deck lever to mid cutting height. 3. Loosen front adjuster until it is loose. 4. Loosen left hand adjuster nut and set it in the middle of the range of travel. 5. Bounce the deck a couple of times to make sure everything is loose...

You are missing a digit in your model number.

Belt size is 5/8” X 189”. As a Toro guy and been doing this for a couple years I would not recommend replacing with a non-OEM belt. You could easily spend big bucks for a belt that doesn’t last long.

I just did a google search for a Honda coil used on a European model and found that the same coil was available through a US distributor. Difference in price was about $25.00. If you have part numbers check with US distributors is see if they sell the same part.

I would recommend that you take a serious look at Toro model 21387. I’ve been using one on a 40 degree slope, cutting sideways for the last 3 years and I’ve never had a problem. Disclaimer: I’m a Toro guy

HDPE & MDPE will bend and form quite easily if you have the patience and the right tools. To do what you want to do you will need a piece of angle iron, roughly 2”X2”X15”clamped to the edge of a solid workbench. A way to clamp the plastic to the workbench so the bending line is on the edge of...

See if this sire will answer your question. Look at the last pic or the green Rover. https://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/aka8j-need-know-choke-return-spring-quantum.html

The first thing I would be checking is if the belt is routed correctly. Remove the deck, set the parking brake and crawl underneath. Your belt should be loose and you should be able to move it. Check to see if the belt is not rubbing on a belt guide or that a pulley is not turning smoothly...

Update, Toro has discontinued production of the steering wheel line of Z-turn mowers.

To me that looks like a hood mounting bolt. I doubt it is a bolt which goes on the engine, it is a pivot point for something.

I’ll bet if you remove the tension on that belt I see the pulley will come off.

There are those who will disagree with me on what sealant to use, but I have found that the two I will recommend are probably the most expensive, but I know they work for me and I don’t have to worry about taking it apart a second time. To me the price of the sealant is cheaper than my labor if...

Your engine crosses to a Tecumseh engine model TVS 090 - 43031A. Sorry to tell you that it has one of the most difficult starters for the DIY Guys to repair with individual parts. It’s even tough to properly mount a new starter assembly. The replacement starter assembly is Tecumseh part number...

My findings is that the thickness between sealant and a single gasket is too small to worry about.

Yes, a too rich fuel mixture can be the problem. You might want to try the synthetic 2-cycle oils, which will change the mixture, but still keep the oils protection properties. I use Opti-2.

Bert, this guy has a Kohler, not Briggs, and I’m just passing on the service manual instructions. Most Kohers call for gaskets in all other areas, with a few exceptions. In this case Briggs is in a different ball field and I agree with you, no sealants. I have found that you can remove...

17 years ago they may have used a gasket where specified by the equipment manufacturers, but technicIan’s have learned that sealant does a better job.

To be honest with you I’ve never, ever replaced one of those pins, plus as Star said, no gasket just sealant. I don’t know where you are getting your info from, but I would seriously question the authors. Here is a service manual for your engine, I would follow its instructions...

You have a D-400 series carb, this manual may be of some help. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball10.pdf

Before doing that, did you remove the main nozzle and clean it?

What split alignment pin are you talking about?

Post all engine numbers so we have an idea of what you have.

As long as you are not running the mower and sprayer at the same time there should be no problem.

First, check to make sure that the hydro release lever is pushed in. Second, when was the last time the drive belt was changed? The corrected belt for your unit is part number 1672135SM. If it is more than three years I would start there. A lot cheap to check the simple things first be fore...

Worked on many of them, if properly maintained they are a good engine.

I doubt that the changes would be worth anything to anybody but you. Time and cost would not be valid unless you have a very specific need.

You probably don’t have to start looking, as this guy wants a paper copy and my guess is he’s probably not coming back because it is not exactly what he wants.

If it is around a 5Hp, my guess is a Kohler K91.

Didn’t know a reply was expect.

Glad to hear it.

What do you mean, “will not turn over”? Engine will not spin when you engage the starter or engine spins but engine will not start? If the starter engages the engine, but the flywheel will not turn try this. Remove the spark plugs and try turning the engine over. If the engine spins first...

More than likely a 3/8” pipe thread.

Problem is no photo, poor explanation of the problem, and we are wondering what help you are looking for. Any other questions?

You need to adjust the hydros. Google search this “adjusting hydro on toro z5000 timecutter” and you will find videos on how to do this. Much easier than having me try to explain. Delete your other thread so confusion does not set in.

First I would replace the diaphragm and gasket. Second, when you installed them the diaphragm goes against the tank first, then gasket, then carb and tighten the screws slowly, in a crossing pattern. Did you remember to install the pulse spring?

Since Briggs filed for bankruptcy protection, they are looking to get rid of some brands, but I don’t think Smplicity is one of them. I have heard that Murray and Snapper are two that are on the block.

To the best of my knowledge Timecutters use a blade with just a center hole, no pattern to wash out. You must use a belleville washer to hold the blade tight against the spindle shaft.

Could be that the throttle cable is not adjusted properly. Try this, move throttle control to full speed, and then loosen the screw holding the cable in place. With the cable loose push it forward as far as possible and then tighten the screw. This will now be set at full throttle. Easier to...

At the price of a new Honda carb, many times it is more cost effective to purchase a new OEM carb than to spend an hour or two trying to clean it. Got one a month ago for $13.50, would cost three times that to try to clean the old one.

Have been using 87 octane for years with no problem, but do make sure it never stands around for more than 30 days. Also use nothing but Opti 2 oil.

Star we are on the right track but because he won’t provide more info I can’t be sure. Could be an ZMT2500K, but this guy may have worked on many pieces of equipment, but his post just hit me between the balls and I’m not going to waste any more time trying to help him with his Gen X attitude...

Your mechanic likes to throw parts at a proble instead of troubleshooting the problem. More than likely a bad stator, but unsure until it is tested in the proper procedure. This manual is probably not your exact engine, but the troubleshooting procedure is the same...

I guess at 70, been working on this equipment for more than 50 years, started when paper manuals were all we had before microfiche I must be too young for your likes. Because you have a commercial unit, probably model ZMT2500KH-84326 it’s probably buried in my archives and I’m too lazy to dig...

If you could post a couple of pictures of the unit it may help us help you. Remember, us old farts need to visualize what you have, especially changes you describe, to jog our feeble memories.

This manual may be of some help. As a service tech I’ve used the following method multiple times with success, but you must be very careful when doing it. Remove the fan and reinstall the flywheel bolt until you have a gap of 1/16”-1/8” between the flywheel and bolt. Take the largest...

Please delete three, if I counted right, of your threads and put all info into one thread. Multiple threads is very confusing to all and there is no need for more than one. In the one thread you keep include the following info. Price range, size range you feel most comfortable with, would you...

Probably not, read my signature.

Personally I would stay away from Husqvarna and Cub Cadet (which is made by MTD). Both are of a lower quality and if I remember right Husqvarna is going to stop making tractors. Just my opinion.

If you do a google search of “adjusting drives on dixon mower” you will find multiple answers to your questions. Much easier than having one of us try to explain each step.

That’s why we don’t like those who hyjack threads. You went from a push mower to a Groundsmaster, but I guess I shouldn’t assume, as it gets me in trouble. Serial numbering and codes are different. Yours was manufactured between 1994-95.

Do we have two threads in one here, I’m old and get confused easily?

IL, I missed that one and I totally agree with you. To the OP, disregard my post and go with what IL posted, I’m wrong and he’s got you on the correct track.

Your serial number is a few digits short. Double check it please.

Are you sure that you did not replace th brake cable? Download this manual, which may allow you to better describe the problem...

Did you reset the float to it’s proper level?

Let’s take a step back, because I’m confused. Are we talking about engine speed or ground speed? Makes a big difference as to how we proceed. If it is ground speed, we will need units model and serial numbers. Pics will be helpful either way.

Check out Sec 4, page 2, Figure 1 of this manual. Could that be the spring location? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybHphbUNTQUNNR2s/view

Bert is probably right, I just want to see his setup and engine to tell him how to fix it.

If you just swapped the seals, I would start by getting the proper seals for both sides an install them. This should be done anytime you open a two-cycle crankcase.

Unless you a going to do the job yourself, I doubt it would be cost effective.

Any motor can be rebuilt, but at what cost? Make a list of any parts that you feel are going to be in need of replacement. Then google the web to see what parts are available and cost. From that point you can make your decision.

Your right cylinder is no working. Either you are getting no spark or No fuel, (was the plug wet?)

Please post all engine numbers, so we can see what you have. It would also help if you posted a pic of how the throttle cable is attached to the engine.

Have the carb cleaned and rebuilt.

I’m thinking, seeing it’s an idle return spring, that it is located between the governor arm and throttle control. I’ve seen something like that on generator engines with shut down idle controls. Scrub might be on the right track, but I’m then confused because it is called an ”idle control...

If the deck hits the pulley, it is not mounted correctly or the wrong deck. Don’t know of anywhere MTD uses a spring to stabilize their decks.

Please provide engine type and code numbers.

Is it possible that you installed the coil upside down or did not set the proper air gap of .010”?

Gee, are you back to square one as I warned?

Bert is right on. I made myself a stubby 1/2” box wrench to reach in through the access hole in the chassis, if I remember right it is a standard nut, which I replaced with a flange nut when I reinstalled it, which made it a little easier to hold.

After cleaning are you sure you set the float level properly? Sorry wrong carb, disregard. Did you replace the fuel pump diaphragm?

Post the engine model and spec numbers and we can answer your questions.

I’ve seen L-Head engines that will blow oil out a head gasket, because they are either stored sat an angle in a position where oil will leak into the cylinder, especially when they are over filled or gas diluted.

I should know better that IL is correct, you should always start with the fuse.

The only things you have not tested or replaced are the PTO switch, brake safety switch, or PTO safety switch. When you bypassed the solenoid, did you have the key in the run position? Did you also check to see if the fuel solenoid is opening when you put the key in the run position.

To me I suspect a blown head gasket.

I suspect you have a frayed wire in the safety circuit. Did this just occur after winter storage, mice could have built a nest under the shroud and chewed the wires. This will try your patience, as you now have to physically check as much of the wiring as you can.

Try this site. https://www.troybilt.com/en_US/prior-year-models-rzts/mustang-42-zero-turn-rider/17BDCACS066.html

Just download this operators manual and start on page 20. https://apps.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-18950d.pdf

Go to this site, you should be able to get a wiring diagram for your unit. https://www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cadet-wiring-schematics

If the engine fires when you spray fuel into the carb you have spark. Did you check the connections, plus check the fuel solenoid as I stated earlier. I think you are assuming things are good without checking and testing them.

First thing to check is the battery cables, wouldn’t be the first time someone has switched them around. Second is check the ground cable connection to the chassis, weak or dirty connection will cause cable to heat up. Third, this one I’m guessing at because you don’t tell us which engine you...

All Toros are built to the same quality no matter where they are sold. I recommend that you go to your local Toro dealer, as most will honor the big box prices. On top of that they make sure that the unit is set up properly.

This manual might be of some help. Check sec #5 figure 5-11 And sec 11 starting with figures 11-77. Post back if you need more help and I’ll see if I can do so...

Also post the unit model and serial numbers so we can see which unit you have.

Superseded number 742P05620, did a quick google search and the cheapest I’ve found is about $27.00 each.

Unplug the PTO plug and check to see if you have 12+ VDC at the plug. This will tell you if your clutch is bad or you have an electrical problem.

That is the way those old F100 series engine were built and is normal. The lever is call a speed control lever, but is just use to set an idle or governed top speed. They call it light or normal in the manual I’ve attached. Most people just leave it set to normal and have no reason to change...

That is a Toro Z-turn deck, but it is the right one for your unit I can’t tell because I’m not there. Maybe this manual will help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978

Most often when you see clumping, it is the result of trying to cut too much at a time. The rule most of us use is never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time.

I understand. This might help you out. I’ve seen guys who cannot get pads go to the big semi repair shops and get a piece of brake pad. They would them cut their own pads and in a pinch this seems to work.

As I said in my previous reply, solenoid.

Just went out and measured the thickness of a nearly new set of pads. Thickness is .380”. Tecumseh part number 799021A, cost about $8.00. Hope you still have the thin shim which rides against the two pins to keep the pad from breaking.

In this part of the country I’d be asking about $750-800, depending on condition. Remember good condition to you might be fair in one area and great in another.

I have more questions than answers at this time, as I’m standing next you with a strong drink in my hand to see your problem. Each question I ask may be or contribute to your problem. First, are you discharging or mulching? Mulching normally does lead to buildup. Second, you say you are...

Today’s coils, even those from twenty years ago, cannot be tested with an Ohm meter. With the symptoms you described, I suspect your coil has failed and I would be replacing it.

Don’t know if you have this manual, so I’ve attached it to the end of this post. Service manuals for these cheap units are nonexistent and techs must use past experience as to how to repair them. Parts are available if you do a little web searching. I suspect your problem is a bad drive belt...

Parm, we are not standing next to you with a strong drink in our hand to see what you are talking about. Most of us are at least 1000 miles away so you must paint us the best picture you can to help us help you. Tell us exactly what is happening, how long this problem has been going on, did it...

Two different decks are available for that unit. A 42” deck has no cover over the pulley by the discharge chute. A 48” deck has covers over the two outside pulleys, but none on the center pulley. Noticed that you have posted this same thread twice, please delete the other one as it will get...

At 9 years old, the adapter could easily be worn. Part number 106-3987, about $20.00.

I’m thinking your solenoid is stuck in the start position, engaging the starter. Disconnect the large cable going to the starter at the solenoid. Reconnect the battery cable and see if the buzzing is still there. No buzzing, you found your problem.

Are you sure it is a Kawasaki engine. From what I can find it is a Toro engineered engine built by Loncin. Does it look like the one in this service manual for your unit? https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255

Please post the units serial number, we should be able to get your engine numbers.

Most often the Briggs seat is made of a material call Viton, which will swell if exposed to standing fuel for long periods of time. If you can’t get the seat to level out, let me know, I’ve got a trick if you need it so you don’t have to buy a new float.

My experience tells me the faster a battery will charge, the faster it will discharge. I suspect you have a battery or batteries with one or more bad cells.

The main reason I’ve seen for this problem, is that the belt gets tight when you pull backwards. Yes you may have a dry tranny, but since you’ve already changed the belt, I would check the blade adapter for wear. I know this sounds crazy, but if the pulley area of the adapter is worn it will...

To all the garage mechanics and the DIY guys on this thread, the OP is complaining about a unit the dies after a10 minutes of operation with a dead battery. Why are you looking at spark plugs, this is not a battery ignition system, it’s a magneto ignition system. I guess you guys know more...

VVR, I’ve been working on small engines since the early 60’s and in shop situations since the early 70’s. I’ve also worked on just about every brand, like Maytag, Fairbanks Morse hit&miss, Singer and Briggs letter series engines, upto today’s EFI models. From that experience I base my opinions...

If the starter spins over, but does not push the bendix gear up, you either have a weak battery or a bad bendix drive.

Not a problem, I got lucky this time. Glad to hear you have it running.

Hey Fish, that main jet is for a Tecumseh, OP has a Briggs. Different main jet setup.

Bet the float seat has swollen and your float is closing too soon, not allowing enough fuel in the float bowl. Repair is to replace the float needle and seat, plus level the float.

Manny if you set the wheels going straight the steering wheel gear should be in the center of the sector gear +/- one tooth.

See what you started Star, a never solved thread.

If you are only getting 6V at the starter your problem is a bad battery. It is either not charged fully or junk.

First of all you have to realize that your terminology makes us think you are talking about the engine and not the unit, which can get very confusing. A good machine shop should be able to rebuild that shaft for you. Before taking it apart, show them your pics and ask them what they think...

Just to eliminate a possible cause, disconnect the ground cable froze the framer or engine, where ever it is connected. If you can measure the resistance through this cable, must be less than 5 Ohms. Clean the terminal and the frame down to bare metal, no paint and reconnect. We want to make...

You definitely are missing a digit. Take a pencil and rub it over the code number on the original engine, the missing number will magically appear.

Roll pins or split pins don’t just fall out, they have to be driven out. If you didn’t drive it out and it just dropped to the ground, I would say it doesn’t go on your machine. Set it aside, someplace you will remember and use the unit. If it were needed you’ll find out quickly. Only place...

How old are the batteries? On many early electric models the battery life was not much more than three years. That’s why they weren’t as popular five years ago. Today’s models last about five years.

Scrub, I thought that was your new assistant. Have you tried going to a local repair shop and see if they have any old carbs laying around. Might be able to find one there, or a the local recycling center.

Both built the same year, but I’m sorry this old fart has forgotten how to read the rest of the code number. Adjusting valves properly is an experienced skill. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn’t matter which locking system you have.

Only difference is manufacture date.

If the fuel stopped leaking after a minute or so, and then didn’t continue I would not play around with this carb at this time. Many times the viton tip on the float needle will dry up, not allowing proper seating, but will soften up when exposed to fuel. Here is a service manual for that...

Google “Lawn Mower Racing” and you’ll find answers to most of your questions.

First, are you disengaging the engine brake by pulling back the brake bail handle when trying to start? Second, if so then remove the spark plug and try again. If neither of these solves the problem, time to return the unit, you have a major problem.

To me that looks like a blown head gasket.

Just my opinion as a service tech, you need to be a gambler to go after that unit. I would say you have a 25% chance of spending less than $100 in repairs the first year you have it, 50% chance of spending $100-$500 the first year and 25% chance of spending over $500. You don’t provide us any...

First you must check to see if the charging system is working. Next time start the unit and while it is running check battery voltage. You should have a voltage of 13-14.5 VDC while running or you charging system is not working. If you have the right voltage, you have a bad battery for sure...

Now I’m thinking you punched the main jet couple thousands over.

He posted again on the Dynamark Deck and fuel pump threads. If he had half a brain he would just PM the admin if it is that important. Next time I see him do this I think I’ll just report him.

Did you check the steering and sector gears?

If I had it I would first try starting It hot with the kill wire disconnected from the coil. No problem trying this with the shroud off. If no spark I would be replacing the coil. If it starts you will have to trace for a hot open or short in the kill wire.

First thing I would check is battery voltage. At three years old the life of the batteries may be near their end.

If it hit a hard surface, you might have caused internal damage to the starter. The magnets are very easi damaged when you hit them or drop them.

I know, stupid question. When it jumped out of your hand, did it hit the ground?

This manual may be of some help. I’m thinking that the governor spring is not attached properly or wound tight tight. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball21.pdf

I don’t know what nut you are talking about. Are you sure that the air vane is not hitting something, preventing it from closing the throttle? With the engine not running you should be about to move it very, very freely.

Bert, has a good start. If you find no damage, the next time you try to start it the second time and it doesn’t start, remove the plug. If it is wet you may be correct that you have no spark.

When you jack it up, make sure you inspect the steering gear and sector gear. They may be worn and slipping. Probably have to remove the deck first.

When you say “would not restart” what do you mean? Engine spins, but will not start? Starter will not spin engine over? How old is the battery? Did you store the unit with fuel in it? How old is the fuel you put in when getting the unit out of storage? When you answer these questions we...

Vlad, if you read the rules private party ads are OK on this forum. Why are you trying to get someone in trouble, he’s doing nothing wrong?

Sorry, I thought I read you have an OHV engine, L-head changes everything I posted. Two different questions now. How did you adjust the valve clearance last time? How did you lap the valves and how long ago did you do this service? I need all engine numbers, model, type and code please.

Starter could be the problem, but I need more info. If you jump the starter while it is installed on the engine, will it start? How old is your battery and what are it‘s cold cranking amps? (CCA stamped on the battery). What are the engine numbers, so we can see what you are talking about...

Couple of questions. When you rotate the flywheel by hand do the valves open and close properly? When you checked the clearance were the rocker arms snug against the valves and pushrods? The last time you set the valve clearance, are you sure the locking set screw was very tight? Finally...

If you installed a new governor spring under the air vane, it is set too tight and must be adjusted to lower idle RPMs.

Only time correct engine RPMs are set under load is on a generator. Here your engine speed controls generator output, which must be kept in a small specific window to prevent the ruining of other equipment.

You say you couldn’t idle below 2500 RPMs and it isn’t a mechanical or ignition problem. This leaves fuel. I’m guessing the idle mixture screw was turned out too far or missing and possibly found idle speed screw in too far. This would produce an extremely rich mixture, plus intermittent...

On my device it has been fixed, no long receiving this message for 2 weeks

You are correct, the only difference it the electric starter. I say these units should last 20 years with proper maintenance. Hope your still using it 15 years from now, then trade it in for a rider.

Ok, your engine has hydraulic lifters, no valve clearance. If you can rotate the crankshaft and only one valve moves, my opinion is you will have to open the engine and see if you have a camshaft problem or lifter problems.

It’s either a late 2020 or early 2021 model.

No such chart that I know. Toro changed their serial number ID system about 5 years ago. Post the model and serial numbers for the unit and I’ll try to figure out your year of manufacture.

Start by checking the valve clearance on all four valves. If all valves are within specs and the three valves don’t move, you more than likely have a camshaft issue. None of the other things you posted would cause this.

Coil installed upside down, or the wrong coil or improper gap?

No voltage on the large terminal going to the starter when you turn the key, and no clicking of the solenoid means you have a problem with power going through the coil circuit of the solenoid. Disconnect the small wire going from the solenoid to ground and measure the resistance through this...

Slomo, there are no O-rings, just 8” rubber hose, stored vertically.

It could very well be a simple fix but my question is, Is this an indication of problems down the road? As a service tech I can fix this, but as a consumer why should I deal with this type of quality?

Yes, that is the style I’m talking about.

You didn’t lose anything. You have a variable speed unit which uses two belts and a stack style pulley with a moving center sheave. The sheave is stuck, not allowing speed changes.

By taking it back to Lowe’s, no reason to play around with it. Then go to a Toro dealer and look at the Recycler series. For about the same amount of money or less you can get a better quality mower.

Cub Cadet part #732-04448, costs about $7.00. Look at this diagram. https://www.partstree.com/models/zt1-54-kh-fab-17rreaca010-cub-cadet-ultima-54-zero-turn-mower-fab-deck-kohler-2019/transmission-rh-27/

Are you sure you have an MST tranny and not an 800 or 900 series tranny? What is the number on the ID tag on the tranny? Yes, you are correct that an MST tranny uses 80W90 gear lube, but the 800 and 900 series units use Bentinite. You say you have an MST unit, but the video your watch is not...

Yes a spring is not a ring, but it does have a set amount of tension. Just grabbing one that looks the same, but with a different tension can cause a hydro problem. Do it right the first time.

Give us the model and serial numbers for the unit so we can look up other pictures to help you out.

Short answer is NO, because it would be difficult to match the drive gear. One thing I did notice in pic 3 is that the wear I’m seeing is due to spinning the wheels on wet grass, causing rapid wear.

The “thick oil” you are seeing is actually Bentinite grease, which is a clay based grease used in many on the Peerless models. If you decide that you “MUST” change the lubricant in you tranny, be ready for a sticky, dirty job. Do not attempt this unless you have above average mechanical skills...

You can fit most Briggs engines to that deck, if they have the same size crankshaft, length and diameter. Or you can do what many did when the tranny stopped working. Cut the belt off and made a true push mower out of it.

Please post the voltage results to each of the steps in my troubleshooting procedure. Then we can have a better idea on how you should proceed.

A pair of pliers, twist and pull down at the same time.

First check to see if the pulleys stop turning when you push the brake pedal. Drive belt should become slack. Second, check to see the the brake rod is moving the brake lever fully. Here is a parts manual to help you locate the parts I’m talking about...

Best bet would be to take all engine numbers and contact Honda.

Kelly Bluebook has a guide for lawn and garden equipment.

Do you have a LTH130, not LTF? Check to see if you unlocked the hydro release lever. Here is the owners manual with troubleshooting procedure. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74430/Husqvarna-Lth130.html?page=27#manual Sorry Bert beat in replying.

If you get 5 years out of that mower, with medium use, you will be lucky.

I’m glad I could help you out, glad you got it solved. Thank you for replying.

I’ll try to help you, but you didn’t answer all my questions, so I might be wrong. You only answered 2 of the 6 questions I asked, so I’ve only got two possible causes of the problem. I would check is if the exhaust ports are clean and wide open. If they are plugged it will not allow enough...

If you have the QR code app on your phone, it will give you all the information you need, plus more. The only high tech app this old fart knows how to use.

Every time you tip an engine with the carb down, you will drain all fuel in the float bowl onto the air filter. Always tip an engine with the carb up, should solve your problem.

More questions, no answers. What is the serial number of the unit? Did you purchase new or used? What do you mean by “high grass”? How much are you taking off when trying to cut “high grass” ? Has the blade been sharpen recently? What is your wheel height setting? With answers to these...

Super Recycler comes with either a Briggs or Loncin engine. The Recycler can come with Honda engines on one model.

No.

If it is a quick change shut off, you must turn the center and pull out to release the oil. Does it look like this one, if it does notice the lock system in the yellow area.

Before i would advise replacing a three year old lawn tractor, I would like to know what you now have and whether it really needs to be replaced or just a good repair. Please post the model and serial numbers of both the unit and engine, so we know what you are talking about. Then we will be...

If those are the original batteries, 7-8 years and, I would say you’ve got more than the life from them and time to replace. I think you are going to find that the cost of replacing just the batteries won’t be economically wise, so you should probably look into replacing the unit.

No need to use an OEM bolt. Just get two good clean bolts and install with a drop of Loctite.

To sell it as is, will come back to bite you 95% of the time.

Hammer is correct, there are no shop manuals for Craftsman tractors and in my years of servicing equipment I’ve only seen service manuals for the pre 2010 major manufacturer’s. Even today they are limited to the high end products, on computer disc and very expensive, even for the dealers. With...

Hardware kit is installed on the back of the tractor frame, left and right sides. Most times you don’t need them, I’ve tossed them 95% of the time. What is the model of the bagger system you are trying to install.

We are not getting the complete picture here. As Star stated he changed the deck belt, but could he have told us the wrong belt? If he would reply telling us a little more about everything he did, we might have a better idea of what is going on. I’m assuming that he played with the drive belt...

If you have the QR code app on your phone, it will give you all the information you need, plus more. The only high tech app this old fart knows how to use.

Bert hit it on the head, time to replace the needle and seat. You will have to do it sooner or later, why not do it now when you have the carb off. If you’re in the business to repair, then fix it right, if you are just fixing your own unit go ahead and take the gamble. Remember it’s always...

It doesn’t look like the pictures on pages 4-10 to 4-15? Don’t care about the age of the manual, that model has been around since 2009. If it’s that different post a pic please.

Check this manual out, page 4-6. Snap ring holds bearing HOC. to the HOC plate. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

Have you removed the external snap ring?

My autocorrect changed condenser to coil so it did not make sense, sorry about that. Using a non-resistor coil should be no problem.

I think I just might fit into the picture as an experienced mechanic, have worked on engines and equipment for 50+ years and in the industry for 35+. If I remember correctly I did run into this problem once before. Here is a procedure I taught my students years ago. If you don’t think I’m...

These engine did not use a coil most of the time, but in the past when I saw them I did add a condenser if the points would fail quickly. This manual may help you out. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1010067/Wisconsin-Th.html#page=16-manual

Sounds like a Lawn Boy D-400 series carb. Maybe this old service manual will help you out. https://dokumen.tips/documents/26622228-lawn-boy-service-manual-1950-88-complete.html

Not correct. Not adjusting the carb in the proper order and also making sure the governor is adjusted properly, will contribute to your problem. You must make sure your governor is working properly, then adjust your carb, then go back and adjust your governed top speed. How are you adjusting...

This service manual has the procedure on how to adjust the carb. Also make sure that the throttle and choke shafts are moving freely. If not you will have to remove the carb and give it a good cleaning and rebuilding...