Motor drag when PTO engaged

[SeniorCitizen]

Chock the front wheels with an immovable object and see if the back wheels will spin at full throttle. On grass first and then on concrete.

 

[shiftsuper175607]

Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!

Did you try and choke it when you engaged the PTO, as I suggested? I was wondering if it worked.

 

[KrashnKraka]

Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!

maaaaate... no way is an 18/27 shift make any difference to your problem.
Even a rooted 18 will drive up to near on full deck speed in grass, then choke
down when the going gets tough.
What you describe in your OP is pretty much my experience with a lower bearing
in the clutch pack 'grabbing'. As mysterious as it was I dissembled the clutch (not easy)
and confirmed that bearing was U/S. From water intrusion by bad design, I would add.
Very disappointing from Borg Warner. Cheap and nasty.
New bearings - and modified the design while I was at it - and away we went.
A clutch pack is a lot cheaper 'experiment' than a motor and a darnsight quicker.

IF you just have to have an engine as a 'play' then make sure you read my recent posts
on my FR541V... Kawasaki is not all it is cracked up to be. TRUST THAT!

.... jes sayin' like.

KK

 

[afollower]

maaaaate... no way is an 18/27 shift make any difference to your problem.
Even a rooted 18 will drive up to near on full deck speed in grass, then choke
down when the going gets tough.
What you describe in your OP is pretty much my experience with a lower bearing
in the clutch pack 'grabbing'. As mysterious as it was I dissembled the clutch (not easy)
and confirmed that bearing was U/S. From water intrusion by bad design, I would add.
Very disappointing from Borg Warner. Cheap and nasty.
New bearings - and modified the design while I was at it - and away we went.
A clutch pack is a lot cheaper 'experiment' than a motor and a darnsight quicker.

IF you just have to have an engine as a 'play' then make sure you read my recent posts
on my FR541V... Kawasaki is not all it is cracked up to be. TRUST THAT!

.... jes sayin' like.

KK

I thought about the clutch but the only test I could find was the electrical test and that passed. However, the mower has little power without engaging the blades now. It's like driving around in idle... drags the motor down in forward or reverse but doesn't kill it. Almost kills it when blades engaged. The motor burns some oil and leaks some too and has for a couple of years, so I was thinking of replacing it as the rest of the mower/deck are in pretty good shape.

Now I'm thinking of going with a new mower. I've looked at Dixon, Husqvarna, Hustler, Toro, Cub Cadet and Kubota..... it's like buying a car! The motors vary on these to.... mainly Kohler and Kawasaki. Haven't seen a B/S on one.

I guess I can see about removing the clutch but I don't really think that's the problem--or maybe only problem. Any links to instructions of removing the PTO clutch?

Thanks for the help!

 

[afollower]

Did you try and choke it when you engaged the PTO, as I suggested? I was wondering if it worked.

I would if I could get it to start now! Good grief. I'll get back to you.

 

[afollower]

Chock the front wheels with an immovable object and see if the back wheels will spin at full throttle. On grass first and then on concrete.

Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?

 

[KrashnKraka]

Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?

It is looking that way, yes. But before you start jumping all over the shop do a compression
test on the engine and check it revs up with no load, take the drive belt off.

KK

 

[afollower]

It is looking that way, yes. But before you start jumping all over the shop do a compression
test on the engine and check it revs up with no load, take the drive belt off.

KK

Did a compression test before. 115psi

 

[afollower]

Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?

Okay, I got it started and tried to push a tree. Tires spun a bit then the motor almost died. I'm not convinced I have a tranny issue. I think its something with the motor as it doesn't rev up when a load is put on it. Full throttle isn't as revved as it used to be either. I also tried the choke during this and it killed the motor.


Someone mentioned the governor before and that sounds like it could be an issue. I am bout spent on this thing.

If the deck has new bearings and nothing binding, the clutch acts okay and checks out electrically, and there is no apparent transmission issue, then it has to be something with the motor, right? The compression is good on the motor and it does start (with some coaxing). The governor spring was broken but I reattached it though it is just a bit shorter--that shouldn't be an issue, could it?

My thought is to see about a new motor as the old leaks and burns oil anyway.

Any more ideas guys? I am very thankful for this forum and really appreciate all your help. This one is a bugger for sure!

 

[afollower]

I was checking out some YouTube videos about PTO clutches and it reminded me that just before I started having these issues that sometimes the blades would not come on right away when I pulled the PTO. So I am wondering if I do have a clutch issue as well? The motor still acts the same whether blades are engaged or not. Does anyone know if these clutches are adjustable?