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Motor drag when PTO engaged

#1

A

afollower

Hey guys. I have a 2005 Dixon Ram44 with a BS motor. I keep the maintenance up on it the best I know how and have run into this issue which has me a bit stumped. Would appreciate some input.

When I engage the blades the motor rpm drops dramatically to almost stalling but runs, like at idle speed. When disengaged, the motor picks back up and runs at high rpm. I have checked the belts and they are good.

I keep the bearings greased and the deck clean. No bearing noise--or little bearing noise from the deck. I have changed the middle two pulley bearing twice since I purchased the mower seven years ago but have never changed the two outside tower bearings.

I am not familiar with the PTO and how it works and so I wonder if there is maintenance that I should have been doing on it? It's to the point I cannot cut grass as the mower runs so low an rpm when blades engaged as to almost stall. Maybe I'm brain dead but it has to be the deck or the PTO, right? Help me out here. Thanks fellas!

EDIT: I checked the voltage before and after PTO engaged. 14.3v before and 13.9v after. So I think the charging system and the seat kill switch is good. I also checked the resistance at the clutch and it 4.0 ohms--which is good, from what I have read. Am I missing another kill switch somewhere? It's looking like a deck issue to me but I appreciate any help here. Thanks.


#2

R

Rivets

I would start by checking to see if the governor is set properly. Post engine numbers.


#3

A

afollower

Rivets said:
I would start by checking to see if the governor is set properly. Post engine numbers.
Click to expand...

Briggs & Stratton
Model: 31Q777
Type: 0110E1
Code: 040303ZD

I hope those are numbers you need. If not, I'll try again. Thanks for the help!


#4

M

motoman

If you are inclined check the general health of the engine (compression) timing. If you normally pull a trailer or climb hills see if there is a fall off of power there. Perhaps an indication of an engine power problem. Someone else recently mentioned bent spindles/ corroded, dragging spindle bearings.


#5

J

Jack17

How does it drive without blades engaged? Can you tell if its slower or about the same? Take it up-hill if you can.


#6

R

Rivets

Here is a manual which will tell you how to adjust the governor.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU


#7

A

afollower

Jack17 said:
How does it drive without blades engaged? Can you tell if its slower or about the same? Take it up-hill if you can.
Click to expand...

I thought about this and drove it around the property a bit. No notable difference. It does burn and leak some oil but I keep a close eye on it, so I had the thought of the motor about to take a dump. But can't tell a difference than before when just driving.


#8

A

afollower

Rivets said:
Here is a manual which will tell you how to adjust the governor.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll check it out and let you know. I really appreciate the help!


#9

A

afollower

motoman said:
If you are inclined check the general health of the engine (compression) timing. If you normally pull a trailer or climb hills see if there is a fall off of power there. Perhaps an indication of an engine power problem. Someone else recently mentioned bent spindles/ corroded, dragging spindle bearings.
Click to expand...

I've never checked the compression before and not sure I have the tools to do it. Would love to learn though. I did drive it up a couple of hills and there was no noticeable change. Thanks!

What would I need to check the compression?


#10

J

Jack17

afollower said:
What would I need to check the compression?
Click to expand...

You need a cylinder compression gauge. You can get it in any auto parts store.
Check the deck belt tension. Your unit has manual belt tension adjuster. It isn't a spring-loaded one like you'd normally find on many other mowers...make sure that is not too tight.


#11

A

afollower

Jack17 said:
You need a cylinder compression gauge. You can get it in any auto parts store.
Check the deck belt tension. Your unit has manual belt tension adjuster. It isn't a spring-loaded one like you'd normally find on many other mowers...make sure that is not too tight.
Click to expand...

I'll see about getting a gauge. I thought about belt tension and will drop the deck and go over everything. I keep hearing this voice telling me its the bearings, its the bearings but that voice isn't always right..... that's why I'm here! lol


#12

M

motoman

With the belts disengaged turning the blades slowly by hand will allow you to determine severe corrosion and drag. The hand is a sensitive instrument. There should be no drag and no sensation of "grit" or "sand" thru the blades into your hands. Also no noise. Make sure the spark plugs are out when trying this so you do not accidentally start the tractor by hand.


#13

M

mechanic mark

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=31q777-0110* manual & parts list

http://www.dixon-ztr.com/ddoc/DIXO/DIXO2005_USen/DIXO2005_USen_RAM-50_.pdf see engine stalls when engaging blades, I know your engine is not stalling yet.

User Manuals | Dixon

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...eshoot pto clutch&aqs=chrome..69i57.18443j0j8


#14

A

afollower

mechanic mark said:
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/results?NTT=31q777-0110* manual & parts list

http://www.dixon-ztr.com/ddoc/DIXO/DIXO2005_USen/DIXO2005_USen_RAM-50_.pdf see engine stalls when engaging blades, I know your engine is not stalling yet.

User Manuals | Dixon

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...eshoot pto clutch&aqs=chrome..69i57.18443j0j8
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links. I do have the manual and read the troubleshooting guide. This is what it says:

8. ENGINE STALLS WHEN BLADES ARE ENGAGED
Operator not on seat- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -sit on seat I have checked the cut-off switch and it is good.
Faulty interlock system- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - consult dealer Not sure what this is, exactly
Fauty blade spindle bearing - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - consult dealer I'll be dropping the deck and checking the bearings and belt tension
Deck drive belt not properly routed- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - reroute I know this is okay
Blades blocked by foreign material - - - - - - - - - - - clean under deck This is not the issue

The governor seems to be working okay too. I will check it again after dropping the deck and let you know. I also purchased a compression gage and will share what I find with that! Thanks again!


#15

A

afollower

motoman said:
With the belts disengaged turning the blades slowly by hand will allow you to determine severe corrosion and drag. The hand is a sensitive instrument. There should be no drag and no sensation of "grit" or "sand" thru the blades into your hands. Also no noise. Make sure the spark plugs are out when trying this so you do not accidentally start the tractor by hand.
Click to expand...

I'll check the bearings when I drop the deck. It's tough to tell with the belt on. The last sentence made me spit up! lol


#16

A

afollower

Okay guys, I checked the compression several times, cold start, and it ranges from 105 to 115. Is this good?

Pulled the deck and removed the two outside tower bearings as they seemed just a bit noisy and they had a little drag. I really don't want to replace the bearings if the motor is bad.

That small still voice is telling me that the compression is good and its the bearings..... like I was thinking. Please let me know what range the compression should be. Thanks!


#17

S

shiftsuper175607

afollower said:
Okay guys, I checked the compression several times, cold start, and it ranges from 105 to 115. Is this good?

Pulled the deck and removed the two outside tower bearings as they seemed just a bit noisy and they had a little drag. I really don't want to replace the bearings if the motor is bad.

That small still voice is telling me that the compression is good and its the bearings..... like I was thinking. Please let me know what range the compression should be. Thanks!
Click to expand...



My opinion is that it is a bearing problem...is it clean all around the pulleys?
Are any of them leaning to where they would bind up that way? Meaning the lean would cause problems under load.

I had one really load the motor down and I blew all the packed dirt and such out from under the pulleys. Oh, and I did replace one idler pulley.


#18

A

afollower

shiftsuper175607 said:
My opinion is that it is a bearing problem...is it clean all around the pulleys?
Are any of them leaning to where they would bind up that way? Meaning the lean would cause problems under load.

I had one really load the motor down and I blew all the packed dirt and such out from under the pulleys. Oh, and I did replace one idler pulley.
Click to expand...

I replaced two of the tower bearings after I removed them and inspected closer--found one had a bit of wobble to it too. Checked the whole deck and pulleys, etc... Nothing binding. Installed deck and tried again. Same thing. Motors bogs down. So I tried driving it around and it now acts as if the governor isn't working! Uggg. So I guess I'll read up on how to check that all out. That's all I can think that's left to deal with. If that isn't the issue, I'm out of ideas. Thanks for the help.


#19

S

shiftsuper175607

afollower said:
I replaced two of the tower bearings after I removed them and inspected closer--found one had a bit of wobble to it too. Checked the whole deck and pulleys, etc... Nothing binding. Installed deck and tried again. Same thing. Motors bogs down. So I tried driving it around and it now acts as if the governor isn't working! Uggg. So I guess I'll read up on how to check that all out. That's all I can think that's left to deal with. If that isn't the issue, I'm out of ideas. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Right when you engage the PTO, choke the engine and see if that helps.


#20

A

afollower

Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!


#21

S

SeniorCitizen

Chock the front wheels with an immovable object and see if the back wheels will spin at full throttle. On grass first and then on concrete.


#22

S

shiftsuper175607

afollower said:
Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!
Click to expand...

Did you try and choke it when you engaged the PTO, as I suggested? I was wondering if it worked.


#23

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

afollower said:
Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!
Click to expand...

maaaaate... no way is an 18/27 shift make any difference to your problem.
Even a rooted 18 will drive up to near on full deck speed in grass, then choke
down when the going gets tough.
What you describe in your OP is pretty much my experience with a lower bearing
in the clutch pack 'grabbing'. As mysterious as it was I dissembled the clutch (not easy)
and confirmed that bearing was U/S. From water intrusion by bad design, I would add.
Very disappointing from Borg Warner. Cheap and nasty.
New bearings - and modified the design while I was at it - and away we went.
A clutch pack is a lot cheaper 'experiment' than a motor and a darnsight quicker.

IF you just have to have an engine as a 'play' then make sure you read my recent posts
on my FR541V... Kawasaki is not all it is cracked up to be. TRUST THAT!

.... jes sayin' like.

KK


#24

A

afollower

KrashnKraka said:
maaaaate... no way is an 18/27 shift make any difference to your problem.
Even a rooted 18 will drive up to near on full deck speed in grass, then choke
down when the going gets tough.
What you describe in your OP is pretty much my experience with a lower bearing
in the clutch pack 'grabbing'. As mysterious as it was I dissembled the clutch (not easy)
and confirmed that bearing was U/S. From water intrusion by bad design, I would add.
Very disappointing from Borg Warner. Cheap and nasty.
New bearings - and modified the design while I was at it - and away we went.
A clutch pack is a lot cheaper 'experiment' than a motor and a darnsight quicker.

IF you just have to have an engine as a 'play' then make sure you read my recent posts
on my FR541V... Kawasaki is not all it is cracked up to be. TRUST THAT!

.... jes sayin' like.

KK
Click to expand...

I thought about the clutch but the only test I could find was the electrical test and that passed. However, the mower has little power without engaging the blades now. It's like driving around in idle... drags the motor down in forward or reverse but doesn't kill it. Almost kills it when blades engaged. The motor burns some oil and leaks some too and has for a couple of years, so I was thinking of replacing it as the rest of the mower/deck are in pretty good shape.

Now I'm thinking of going with a new mower. I've looked at Dixon, Husqvarna, Hustler, Toro, Cub Cadet and Kubota..... it's like buying a car! The motors vary on these to.... mainly Kohler and Kawasaki. Haven't seen a B/S on one.

I guess I can see about removing the clutch but I don't really think that's the problem--or maybe only problem. Any links to instructions of removing the PTO clutch?

Thanks for the help!


#25

A

afollower

shiftsuper175607 said:
Did you try and choke it when you engaged the PTO, as I suggested? I was wondering if it worked.
Click to expand...

I would if I could get it to start now! Good grief. I'll get back to you.


#26

A

afollower

SeniorCitizen said:
Chock the front wheels with an immovable object and see if the back wheels will spin at full throttle. On grass first and then on concrete.
Click to expand...

Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?


#27

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

afollower said:
Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?
Click to expand...
It is looking that way, yes. But before you start jumping all over the shop do a compression
test on the engine and check it revs up with no load, take the drive belt off.

KK


#28

A

afollower

KrashnKraka said:
It is looking that way, yes. But before you start jumping all over the shop do a compression
test on the engine and check it revs up with no load, take the drive belt off.

KK
Click to expand...

Did a compression test before. 115psi


#29

A

afollower

afollower said:
Are you thinking it could be a transmission issue?
Click to expand...

Okay, I got it started and tried to push a tree. Tires spun a bit then the motor almost died. I'm not convinced I have a tranny issue. I think its something with the motor as it doesn't rev up when a load is put on it. Full throttle isn't as revved as it used to be either. I also tried the choke during this and it killed the motor.


Someone mentioned the governor before and that sounds like it could be an issue. I am bout spent on this thing.

If the deck has new bearings and nothing binding, the clutch acts okay and checks out electrically, and there is no apparent transmission issue, then it has to be something with the motor, right? The compression is good on the motor and it does start (with some coaxing). The governor spring was broken but I reattached it though it is just a bit shorter--that shouldn't be an issue, could it?

My thought is to see about a new motor as the old leaks and burns oil anyway.

Any more ideas guys? I am very thankful for this forum and really appreciate all your help. This one is a bugger for sure!


#30

A

afollower

I was checking out some YouTube videos about PTO clutches and it reminded me that just before I started having these issues that sometimes the blades would not come on right away when I pulled the PTO. So I am wondering if I do have a clutch issue as well? The motor still acts the same whether blades are engaged or not. Does anyone know if these clutches are adjustable?


#31

S

shiftsuper175607

afollower said:
Okay, I got it started and tried to push a tree. Tires spun a bit then the motor almost died. I'm not convinced I have a tranny issue. I think its something with the motor as it doesn't rev up when a load is put on it. Full throttle isn't as revved as it used to be either. I also tried the choke during this and it killed the motor.


Someone mentioned the governor before and that sounds like it could be an issue. I am bout spent on this thing.

If the deck has new bearings and nothing binding, the clutch acts okay and checks out electrically, and there is no apparent transmission issue, then it has to be something with the motor, right? The compression is good on the motor and it does start (with some coaxing). The governor spring was broken but I reattached it though it is just a bit shorter--that shouldn't be an issue, could it?

My thought is to see about a new motor as the old leaks and burns oil anyway.

Any more ideas guys? I am very thankful for this forum and really appreciate all your help. This one is a bugger for sure!
Click to expand...



it sure could be an incorrect spring tension on the governor!!!!

you should have chased that rabbit a long time ago...maybe mentioned it sooner.


#32

M

motoman

After reading the thread again it does seem to be a power starvation problem. Your compression reading is twice my Intek assuming you got a good reading. So , without insulting everyone ...The (mechanical governor(yours?) aims to keep RPMs up---?3500? If the weights sense no load the carb butterfly is relatively closed. When closed there is less venturi affect (suction) pulling gas slower into the intake charge-leaner mix will still produce high RPM. But lean mix will not produce enough power to e.g., turn blades and will tend to kill the engine. So , if governor is not working properly it will not sense load (like PTO coming on), and will not open carb buttefly. An opened carb butterfly (throttle plate) causes more venturi affect (suction) and pulls more gas into the mixture stream. A richer mix produces power and drives the engine into full RPM.

Now what this thread has hinted at is application of choke-did it make a difference? You said it killed the engine. But we do not know if you pulled it full on with black smoke or...? If slight enrichment from a manual choke helped it may point to a governor problem or...

Perhaps time to consider the carb. A sticking carb inlet valve (crud will only let it partially open) will starve the engine if governor is working but carb cannot give enough gas. Then there is the main jet ( I am not familiar with my Intek, much less yours), but it is a hole expected to be clean and open, not clogged. Fuel delivery: tiny pulsed gas pump or gravity? Is fuel filter clogged. Is gas line unclogged?

Just some ideas before you plunk down $600 large.... Take a look at your plugs and compare the insulator color to any auto repair book for adequate fuel mix (brown/tan) not white.

Most who respond know all this and more, but perhaps it can help newbies and show how the tips are generated. As Americans we have trouble with long explanations, but sound bites don't always work.:laughing:


#33

A

afollower

shiftsuper175607 said:
it sure could be an incorrect spring tension on the governor!!!!

you should have chased that rabbit a long time ago...maybe mentioned it sooner.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I had completely forgotten about it. So I will pick up a new spring and install. Worth it to see.


#34

A

afollower

motoman said:
After reading the thread again it does seem to be a power starvation problem. Your compression reading is twice my Intek assuming you got a good reading. So , without insulting everyone ...The (mechanical governor(yours?) aims to keep RPMs up---?3500? If the weights sense no load the carb butterfly is relatively closed. When closed there is less venturi affect (suction) pulling gas slower into the intake charge-leaner mix will still produce high RPM. But lean mix will not produce enough power to e.g., turn blades and will tend to kill the engine. So , if governor is not working properly it will not sense load (like PTO coming on), and will not open carb buttefly. An opened carb butterfly (throttle plate) causes more venturi affect (suction) and pulls more gas into the mixture stream. A richer mix produces power and drives the engine into full RPM.

Now what this thread has hinted at is application of choke-did it make a difference? You said it killed the engine. But we do not know if you pulled it full on with black smoke or...? If slight enrichment from a manual choke helped it may point to a governor problem or...

Perhaps time to consider the carb. A sticking carb inlet valve (crud will only let it partially open) will starve the engine if governor is working but carb cannot give enough gas. Then there is the main jet ( I am not familiar with my Intek, much less yours), but it is a hole expected to be clean and open, not clogged. Fuel delivery: tiny pulsed gas pump or gravity? Is fuel filter clogged. Is gas line unclogged?

Just some ideas before you plunk down $600 large.... Take a look at your plugs and compare the insulator color to any auto repair book for adequate fuel mix (brown/tan) not white.

Most who respond know all this and more, but perhaps it can help newbies and show how the tips are generated. As Americans we have trouble with long explanations, but sound bites don't always work.:laughing:
Click to expand...

Appreciate the help. I rebuilt the carb last year. Probably should take it off and clean it and see what I find. Report back later! Have a good weekend fellas.


#35

M

mechanic mark

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...hoot pto clutch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.29108j0j8 Read through some of these concerning PTO. I believe bearing in your PTO clutch is culprit, either worn out or seized. A new clutch assembly will probably run $200-$350.


#36

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

mechanic mark said:
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...hoot pto clutch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.29108j0j8 Read through some of these concerning PTO. I believe bearing in your PTO clutch is culprit, either worn out or seized. A new clutch assembly will probably run $200-$350.
Click to expand...

The options have certainly been covered in depth and now I read the governer spring
is a dodgy fit.
I would expect the clutch to be giving out some audible signals to the operator when
malfunctioning. And maybe it will when the full power output is reached :)

KK


#37

A

afollower

motoman said:
After reading the thread again it does seem to be a power starvation problem. Your compression reading is twice my Intek assuming you got a good reading. So , without insulting everyone ...The (mechanical governor(yours?) aims to keep RPMs up---?3500? If the weights sense no load the carb butterfly is relatively closed. When closed there is less venturi affect (suction) pulling gas slower into the intake charge-leaner mix will still produce high RPM. But lean mix will not produce enough power to e.g., turn blades and will tend to kill the engine. So , if governor is not working properly it will not sense load (like PTO coming on), and will not open carb buttefly. An opened carb butterfly (throttle plate) causes more venturi affect (suction) and pulls more gas into the mixture stream. A richer mix produces power and drives the engine into full RPM.
Click to expand...

I bought a compression gauge and checked it three different times, and let it sit. Two readings at 115psi and one at 120psi and didn't drop after 60 minutes. I got the kit at Harbor Freight so take it for what it worth! :)

motoman said:
Now what this thread has hinted at is application of choke-did it make a difference? You said it killed the engine. But we do not know if you pulled it full on with black smoke or...? If slight enrichment from a manual choke helped it may point to a governor problem or...
Click to expand...

I pulled choke about halfway and it killed it. No black smoke at all. Just killed it.

motoman said:
Perhaps time to consider the carb. A sticking carb inlet valve (crud will only let it partially open) will starve the engine if governor is working but carb cannot give enough gas. Then there is the main jet ( I am not familiar with my Intek, much less yours), but it is a hole expected to be clean and open, not clogged. Fuel delivery: tiny pulsed gas pump or gravity? Is fuel filter clogged. Is gas line unclogged?
Click to expand...

Carb not sticking and is clean. pulsed gas pump working. New fuel filter.

motoman said:
Just some ideas before you plunk down $600 large.... Take a look at your plugs and compare the insulator color to any auto repair book for adequate fuel mix (brown/tan) not white.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the help. Spark plug is new this spring and has a tan color. Does burn some oil.

motoman said:
Most who respond know all this and more, but perhaps it can help newbies and show how the tips are generated. As Americans we have trouble with long explanations, but sound bites don't always work.:laughing:
Click to expand...

Agreed. The insights have helped me a lot. I know about enough to get me in trouble but can usually figure it out! Thanks.


#38

A

afollower

mechanic mark said:
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...hoot pto clutch&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.29108j0j8 Read through some of these concerning PTO. I believe bearing in your PTO clutch is culprit, either worn out or seized. A new clutch assembly will probably run $200-$350.
Click to expand...

Appreciated the info. I pulled the clutch and the bearing is warn but the clutch really grinds. I think it is shot. I found a new one here: Amazon.com : Dixon 539120786 Electric PTO Blade Clutch - Free Upgraded Bearings : Patio, Lawn & Garden This is the same part number and lowest price I could find at $132.95 and free shipping. Not sure if reliable or not. A site called dixonztrparts.com has clutch for $175.96 plus tax and shipping.

Can you tear the old clutch apart and replace parts? Everything looks riveted together to me.


#39

A

afollower

KrashnKraka said:
The options have certainly been covered in depth and now I read the governer spring
is a dodgy fit.
I would expect the clutch to be giving out some audible signals to the operator when
malfunctioning. And maybe it will when the full power output is reached :)

KK
Click to expand...

Yea, I forgot about the spring--sorry. The clutch never made much noise except when first engaging. I removed it and the bearing is spins but not like it should, IMO. The clutch grinds when I turn it and seems too tight to me. I figure its toast.


#40

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

afollower said:
Appreciated the info. I pulled the clutch and the bearing is warn but the clutch really grinds. I think it is shot. I found a new one here: Amazon.com : Dixon 539120786 Electric PTO Blade Clutch - Free Upgraded Bearings : Patio, Lawn & Garden This is the same part number and lowest price I could find at $132.95 and free shipping. Not sure if reliable or not. A site called dixonztrparts.com has clutch for $175.96 plus tax and shipping.

Can you tear the old clutch apart and replace parts? Everything looks riveted together to me.
Click to expand...
If it is a Borg Warner, definitely yes.
I have posted "how to" before today, not sure which site though.
Happy to repost if it helps.

KK


#41

A

afollower

KrashnKraka said:
If it is a Borg Warner, definitely yes.
I have posted "how to" before today, not sure which site though.
Happy to repost if it helps.

KK
Click to expand...

Yes, please do! Thanks.


#42

A

afollower

Well guys, I bought a new motor for this Dixon and I need help with the wiring. There is no diagram in any of the literature and it is a bit different than the old motor.
New motor is a B&S Model 33R877, type: 0003G1, Code: 150121ZD.

This new motor has two wires coming from the regulator and the old has three. I can't find a schematic anywhere. The carb solenoid has two wires--one is ground and I think the other is to go to the ignition switch but not sure. This motor came with a harness and that's what is confusing me.

As always, any help is appreciated. Thanks!


#43

KrashnKraka

KrashnKraka

afollower said:
Yes, please do! Thanks.
Click to expand...

L8R today..got a paddock to plow right now ;-)


#44

A

afollower

afollower said:
Well guys, I bought a new motor for this Dixon and I need help with the wiring. There is no diagram in any of the literature and it is a bit different than the old motor.
New motor is a B&S Model 33R877, type: 0003G1, Code: 150121ZD.

This new motor has two wires coming from the regulator and the old has three. I can't find a schematic anywhere. The carb solenoid has two wires--one is ground and I think the other is to go to the ignition switch but not sure. This motor came with a harness and that's what is confusing me.

As always, any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Well I got it figured out. Thing runs better than when I first bought it and cuts great! I would still like the information on rebuilding the PTO clutch. I couldn't get the new one on the shaft far enough for the bolt. It seems like the key is a different size but I just can't see it well enough--I'm getting old and blind! The clutch will need work though and I want to rebuild it of I can. Thanks for the help!


#45

A

afollower

KrashnKraka said:
L8R today..got a paddock to plow right now ;-)
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