Motor drag when PTO engaged

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34
You need a cylinder compression gauge. You can get it in any auto parts store.
Check the deck belt tension. Your unit has manual belt tension adjuster. It isn't a spring-loaded one like you'd normally find on many other mowers...make sure that is not too tight.

I'll see about getting a gauge. I thought about belt tension and will drop the deck and go over everything. I keep hearing this voice telling me its the bearings, its the bearings but that voice isn't always right..... that's why I'm here! lol
 

motoman

Lawn Addict
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Threads
65
Messages
2,566
With the belts disengaged turning the blades slowly by hand will allow you to determine severe corrosion and drag. The hand is a sensitive instrument. There should be no drag and no sensation of "grit" or "sand" thru the blades into your hands. Also no noise. Make sure the spark plugs are out when trying this so you do not accidentally start the tractor by hand.
 

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34

Thanks for the links. I do have the manual and read the troubleshooting guide. This is what it says:

8. ENGINE STALLS WHEN BLADES ARE ENGAGED
Operator not on seat- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -sit on seat I have checked the cut-off switch and it is good.
Faulty interlock system- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - consult dealer Not sure what this is, exactly
Fauty blade spindle bearing - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - consult dealer I'll be dropping the deck and checking the bearings and belt tension
Deck drive belt not properly routed- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - reroute I know this is okay
Blades blocked by foreign material - - - - - - - - - - - clean under deck This is not the issue

The governor seems to be working okay too. I will check it again after dropping the deck and let you know. I also purchased a compression gage and will share what I find with that! Thanks again!
 

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34
With the belts disengaged turning the blades slowly by hand will allow you to determine severe corrosion and drag. The hand is a sensitive instrument. There should be no drag and no sensation of "grit" or "sand" thru the blades into your hands. Also no noise. Make sure the spark plugs are out when trying this so you do not accidentally start the tractor by hand.

I'll check the bearings when I drop the deck. It's tough to tell with the belt on. The last sentence made me spit up! lol
 

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34
Okay guys, I checked the compression several times, cold start, and it ranges from 105 to 115. Is this good?

Pulled the deck and removed the two outside tower bearings as they seemed just a bit noisy and they had a little drag. I really don't want to replace the bearings if the motor is bad.

That small still voice is telling me that the compression is good and its the bearings..... like I was thinking. Please let me know what range the compression should be. Thanks!
 

shiftsuper175607

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Threads
10
Messages
1,000
Okay guys, I checked the compression several times, cold start, and it ranges from 105 to 115. Is this good?

Pulled the deck and removed the two outside tower bearings as they seemed just a bit noisy and they had a little drag. I really don't want to replace the bearings if the motor is bad.

That small still voice is telling me that the compression is good and its the bearings..... like I was thinking. Please let me know what range the compression should be. Thanks!



My opinion is that it is a bearing problem...is it clean all around the pulleys?
Are any of them leaning to where they would bind up that way? Meaning the lean would cause problems under load.

I had one really load the motor down and I blew all the packed dirt and such out from under the pulleys. Oh, and I did replace one idler pulley.
 

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34
My opinion is that it is a bearing problem...is it clean all around the pulleys?
Are any of them leaning to where they would bind up that way? Meaning the lean would cause problems under load.

I had one really load the motor down and I blew all the packed dirt and such out from under the pulleys. Oh, and I did replace one idler pulley.

I replaced two of the tower bearings after I removed them and inspected closer--found one had a bit of wobble to it too. Checked the whole deck and pulleys, etc... Nothing binding. Installed deck and tried again. Same thing. Motors bogs down. So I tried driving it around and it now acts as if the governor isn't working! Uggg. So I guess I'll read up on how to check that all out. That's all I can think that's left to deal with. If that isn't the issue, I'm out of ideas. Thanks for the help.
 

shiftsuper175607

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Threads
10
Messages
1,000
I replaced two of the tower bearings after I removed them and inspected closer--found one had a bit of wobble to it too. Checked the whole deck and pulleys, etc... Nothing binding. Installed deck and tried again. Same thing. Motors bogs down. So I tried driving it around and it now acts as if the governor isn't working! Uggg. So I guess I'll read up on how to check that all out. That's all I can think that's left to deal with. If that isn't the issue, I'm out of ideas. Thanks for the help.

Right when you engage the PTO, choke the engine and see if that helps.
 

afollower

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
34
Well, my thoughts are on just replacing the motor. I bought this mower used and I think the motor had been replaced with an undersized 18hp by the previous owner. I was told the B/S has a 27hp that will bolt right in with a little wiring differences. I'm not sold on B/S motors--I just have to work on them way too much. Do you have any suggestions as to a motor that would fit my 2005 RAM44? I saw some new Dixons that have Kawasaki engines... any input? Thanks guys and have a great 4th of July holiday!
 
Top