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Yesterday I pulled one of the opposed twins at work in the shop to do an estimate. It's only running on 1 cylinder, blades won't engage, etc. But while I was doing that I noticed it says "quiet package" on the blower cover. I checked the other twin and it also had "quiet package." Now, I don't...

The problem with ethanol is mostly it's tendency to attract moisture/draw water into gas. The water does the most damage. But ethanol isn't good for rubber either. Carburetor cleaner is hard on rubber, but you don't run your engine on carburetor cleaner day after day, year after year... it's...

The commands are actually decent motors LOL... not like those stupid "Courage" engines! I kinda wish they used the rubber seat/metal needle on these bigger carburetors like Briggs/Tecumseh used to on push mowers. They suffer from some expansion over a long period of time, but seem less prone to...

Yeah i checked it’s not loose. I ran it without any of the cooling tins (briefly of course so as not to overheat) when I first built it and it sounded the same. So I don’t think any exterior parts are doing it. In your opinion, doesn’t that sound a bit different than rod knock? It’s definitely a...

Yeah unfortunately these are pretty junky engines. Camshafts love to come apart and yes head gaskets like to blow too. The Nikki carbs are a PITA. Hard to work with and fail a lot. I try and find Walboro replacements when available, or I buy aftermarket eBay carbs. No sense in spending 120 bucks...

If he smells gas in his oil, then short of him putting it in there by mistake, how would it end up there? Just saying... i only have a few years experience in the industry but I see a failed needle/seat Nikki carburetor making a lawn tractor smoke come through like twice a week where I work...

This is very unscientific but I tried rocking the flywheel back and forth by hand (by grabbing the debris screen on top) and it doesn’t budge from what I can tell. So upper bushing doesn’t seem worn bad but who knows it could be

It’s splash. I thought it could possibly be upper bushing actually, the noise seems to resonate from the top. I should probably up the idle, oh, 1000 rpms. The Harley loping idle when you set it low is intoxicating though lol. It still has this sound at a medium rpm like 1750, though less...

Definitely a lot cheaper... 698183 is what you're looking for as far as shutoff valve. Local mower shop should have them.

Hey everyone! Got questions about my old opposed twin Briggs again. Long story short, I work at a shop, last year someone dropped off a half-disassembled opposed for scrap. I took it home, tore it all the way apart, cleaned up insides, honed, re-ringed, re-sealed, checked valve clearances (were...

Hate to tell you this but you probably didn't need to mess with anything in the first place. Sometimes breathers are just noisy... I've never noticed any ill effects from them making a little "squak" I think its just the plastic valve material resonating. If it's cracked it's probably dangerous...

I had similar thoughts. Fuel cap vent, or maybe dirt in the tank outlet or lines. Maybe even fuel pump issue if it has one. The way to rule out fuel here easily is to get it to start and then continually feed a small amount of carb cleaner spray or starting fluid thru the carb and see if it...

I've seen this many times... I believe your issue is a failed needle/seat valve in the carburetor. This valve regulates gas flow into the float bowl. The needle tip is made of rubber and if it becomes at all distorted it will allow gas to flow into the carburetor and overflow it. The overflowing...

Always works for me.

After cutting a couple of yards since posting this I've started noticing a lack of power when heavy loads are put on the mower, after about 15 minutes of running. It gets worse and worse as the mower runs for longer. For curiosity I choked the engine and that brought power and RPMs up. I don't...

Hey everyone! I have a quick question I wanted to get some opinions on, regarding an old opposed twin cylinder Briggs. I rebuilt it earlier this year after finding it discarded with the cylinder heads off. I tore it all the way down, cleaned everything, honed cylinders, re-ringed and re-sealed...

You can buy the seats aftermarket in bulk online too. I once got a 10 pack of the Briggs seats for 5 bucks. Technically you're supposed to replace the needle too but I really have never seen one that's bad/has any noticeable blemishes. I used about 5 seats out of that pack before I lost it. All...

Afraid Too true. Patience is a virtue, I'll have her for sale by the 10th.

Cool, thanks for the input everyone! I actually work for a shop, and refurbish/repair stuff on the side for extra cash flow. The only reason I didn't replace it without thinking twice is because we're out of the 398188 needle/seat kits, and I was hoping I could get this thing fixed and sold...

Good evening everyone! I just wanted to get y'alls opinions on Needle & Seat Valves, and when they must be replaced. On smaller Briggs & Stratton/Tecumseh Engines, I've often the Seat is a Rubber Insert and the Needle is Metal, as opposed to most larger engines and Hondas where the seat is brass...

Absolutely something I'd do if it was mine. I even replaced the throttle & choke combination lever with separate throttle and choke controls on my lawn tractor. It's always been stupid to me that they want you to start the engine on full throttle before warming up. Anyway, since it's for my...

Model: PH-XT675-2087 Serial: 4427211398 I forced the choke open by taping the linkage that runs across the front to the blower cover so that it could run proper and warm up. It still didn't open fully. After removing the tape 5 minutes later it went right back to running rich.

Hello everyone! I'm working on a Toro Mower with a Kohler Engine on it for a neighbor. He brought it to me because it wouldn't start. I flushed his water-contaminated gas out and cleaned carb/main jet/emulsion tube. Started right up first pull with some new gas in it... but after a minute it...

In regards to the other posts I've seen here, whatever ridges there may have been are not noticeably present anymore after honing. This motor was internally in pretty good shape, and I have no idea what that cam looked like that for. I think the brown was the result of some weird additive or oil...

Thanks for the advice! I took it. I went ahead and ordered the parts I needed and didn't worry about the valves. I got new rings, head gaskets, sump gaskets, PTO seals, etc etc. Finished cleaning block/parts... and rebuilt the motor. Found out my starter motor was too weak... bought a new...

That does help, thank you! I didn’t know that. I’ll use a feeler gauge between the rings at the top/bottom to see how different it is. Since there wasn’t a notable ridge at the top I feel like that’s a good sign. If it needs to be bored I’ll quit on this because I already don’t feel great about...

I should also mention that this motor is just being rebuilt for recreational use, and maybe to replace an aging single-cylinder Intek on that Troy-Bilt I was working on last year. That thing has questionable pushrods: . With that in mind, a slow oil burn is acceptable to me, I regularly...

Much appreciated everyone! I'll take a closer look into it. I feel like there's a good chance the camshaft is ok and I'll try and mic it to be sure. I've determined I will need new piston rings after all. 40 thou ring gap! There isn't really a ridge at the top of the bore but there kind of is at...

Update 01/27/2021 Yesterday I attempted removing the head bolts. Unfortunately, the bad day box had to come out, and I drilled/tapped the holes. I feel pretty good about the result, if I throw some loc-tite on them they should hold just fine. When drilling/fixing the threads, a small chunk came...

Hello everyone! I haven't posted here for a while. Back last spring I restored my Troy-Bilt Bronco Tractor and posted a bit about it here. I ended up getting a job as a tech at a local mower shop which I've had for the past 8 months. Between my experiences at the shop and working on my own...

Update: I sanded the engine pulley, trans pulley, and vari pulley a while back to remove glazing and amazingly I've had no trouble since...

I dug a bit further online and gathered some information. Went and checked my transaxle - there's about a 1/8 inch play/slop on the left axle and a small amount on the right. Clearly, my bushings are shot. I work at a small engine repair shop and the other day I put new belts in the exact same...

Hello Everyone! I'm making another post on the old Troy-Bilt Bronco Lawn Tractor I acquired earlier this year, saved from the scrap. It's a 13aj609g766 2005 mode. At first I was having drive belt issues, slipping, etc. I believe I have fixed it, everything's been incident free for a while. I...

I would try and check your valve clearances. My tractor wouldn't crank over (different problem but its worth a shot) and I overlooked the valves. Turns out they were something like .025 when they should have been like .004. They're notorious for getting out of adjustment on the Briggs Inteks

I took the thing on a test drive today after working on the brakes last night in the dark. It's a little better. The tractor grinds to a stop within about 5 feet on a moderate slope. The brakes work much better, about as well as I want them to, in reverse. I kinda stress tested my belts and...

Yikes! I had to push mine home almost a mile once because the drive belt broke when I was cutting. I guess I should try replacing the pads. Hopefully I can get the rear one loose. That's all I can figure is wrong. I figure that if I ever have an emergency I can throw it in reverse, or forwards...

Almost forgot, Thanks for the help y’all!!

I took apart the thing again tonight. The shim was still there. The shoes were worn down/I could see about 1/16 inches worn off. The brake rotor is not siezed. The pad behind it is stuck and I can’t get it out. I sprayed it with some penetrating fluid so it hopefully works loose soon. I leveled...

thanks for that! Amazing explaination, I had no idea! Turbo charging makes more sense to me now, and so does the fact that I can run blown head gaskets in the L heads but not OHV. L head/side valve must have heavier flywheels. It also explains why they’re willing to run with plugged air filters...

Hey everyone! I'm still working on this Troy-Bilt Bronco 13aj609g766. I got it free a while back and I've made some posts on it. It's been running pretty good after replacing belts, oil gasket, gapping valves, etc. I had some drive belt troubles where it wasn't pulling hills but I think I sorted...

Did you ever get it sorted out? I was having trouble today with my lawn tractor where it wouldn’t pull hills and I was confused because I had just replaced the belt and a couple idlers. After looking online I realized that they were slipping because my pulleys were glazed. Easy to miss because...

I’ve noticed this and I prefer the L head because they’re more durable even if less efficient. I seriously do not understand how they work with such abuse though, do you have any thoughts on how it’s possible? My OHV Briggs won’t even crank with the valves a few thou off because of compression...

I just fixed a leaky sump gasket on a Briggs Quantum that was on one of those craftsman 4-in-1 leaf sucker things. It was a bear to get to, the entire impeller assembly had to come off. Anyway, I noticed the exhaust had about .001 thousands! But it still ran and started fine. Guy didn't want to...

I was thinking the only possibility at this point had to do with valves. These are L head engines just BTW, so they have no rockers but there is the little port where the springs connect from the tappets to the valve stems. I'll check the valve lash at some point I suppose, but the only way to...

Sadly, no, it's still happening. It bothers me too. I de-carboned the head of the motor, checked the timing and spark gap, cleaned the carburetor, etc. and nothing. Perhaps I should do a total rebuild, valve re-gapping, new gaskets, etc. to see what happens. Or try a different carburetor. I...

Hey y'all, I'm working on a lawn mower to sell, and I've got a slight problem. I got a mower where the person had hit a stump, and the engine was worn out anyway, so I replaced the motor with a spare 3.5HP engine. It had to be mounted "backwards" like the old school engines with the plug facing...

It could be causing an overheat but I've personally never heard of that problem. I'm not an expert there though. Probably wrongly on my part, I tend to leave rusted or damaged exhaust alone because I don't care enough about noise to justify the cost of a new part lol.

Thanks y'all. The fan doesn't interfere with anything if that's what you meant by foul. It runs right. I should have thought of using some tapping but I'm sure it's fine.

Well thanks for the advice. I pulled one off of a different engine that I'm realizing is a lost cause. Someone had seized it and I unseized the piston, but the connecting rod and cylinder walls were chewed up. So, It donated a flywheel to the cause. I had to use the puller, no broken bolts this...