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@ILENGINE 1500 sounds like far too much for a single cylinder like that. heck my v-twin only gets around 900

Hey all. Ive been looking for a correct lower bagger chute for my 2015 42" Craftsman Pro T7000, but the part numbers seem to be all over the place. I bought one and didn't know it was for a different mower until it showed up (Husqvarna 592866501). Does anyone know the right part number so I can...

How are you testing that the plug has no spark?

what's the model number under the seat?

Knew I was going to sell my best Craftsman Pro Series mower yesterday, so I had to get a good photo of this great trio before they were split up. Sold the middle one. It was a Craftsman Pro Series G8600. The power steering system was a very interesting experience. I liked it other than the...

I would go with a Husqvarna 48" or 54" riding mower in your case. They hold their value almost as well as John Deere, are cheap and easy to maintain, and parts are very easy to find if something breaks or needs replaced. Avoid Kohler Courage engines, Briggs V-Twins and Kohler 7000 series are...

Had the exact same thing happen to me about a week ago. It DOES turn all the way clockwise and while holding the throttle open where the cable connects to the engine, tighten the screw. I suggest you check over the springs and everything else in the governor linkage so that doesn't happen again.

From what I can see, the only adjustment on this is the idle speed. The welch plug on the top only covers the idle circuit holes.

Well I got a chance to work on it and I looked at a few things. I noticed that there wasn't much fuel flow and narrowed it down to the paper filter really blocking the flow. I replaced it with a typical screen filter and the flow looks much better how it usually is. I also tried putting the OEM...

I'm currently working on a Briggs 40N777-0027 Vtwin, and it has a persistent surging issue. This is one with a single barrel carburetor. I initially replaced the old carb with a aftermarket one and it ran okay at low speeds but anything higher than idle it seems it would run and then die and...

Yeah actually I was in the same boat a few months ago. I made an entire fuel system that I designed specifically to work with an electric fuel pump for mu riding mower. I used one for a Kawasaki Mule 2510, and it only lasted a few months. I had to take that system out and put the old vacuum one...

How exactly did you clean the carb? did you use new gaskets everywhere? A small rip or gap in a gasket will cause surging.

sounds like over inflation?

Well after many hours of hammering and butane, I have discovered that both the engine block and camshaft are toast. There are these little metal pieces that have welded themselves to the camshaft surface basically wedging between the block and cam to not allow you to get it out. The block...

The mounting holes are universal across all brands. Are you buying it new? Are you able to post your engines full model number because your engines output shaft could either be 1" or 1 1/8".

use a big socket that fits around the rim of the seal

I see what you're trying to get at, but the engine is already removed from the machine. It is completely torn down other than the camshaft which refuses to come out.

Anyone know what could be happening? I really need to get this taken apart and sent to the machine shop.

So at this point I have the engine almost completely torn down, everything except for the camshaft. I'm having trouble getting it out. It comes out a few millimeters before getting stuck on something. I have all of the lifters and everything out. Any ideas? And yes, the bolts holding it in are...

check the spark arrester

I found this related thread and it looks like the magnetos do generate some kind of pulse. I might just buy the tach and see if I can get it to do something. https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/derive-a-tachometer-signal-from-magneto.170366/page-2

well I just got around to checking some things out. I measured the exhaust temps and they stayed close to the same. Eventually found that a coil wasn't contributing at all, go try explain that 🤷‍♂️. I had one around that I pulled off a parts mower and it fired up and ran beautifully, like the...

Back when mowing the lawn was a real chore haha

Yeah I'm not worried about taking it out because I have a separate battery indicator/charging plug that I installed in the dash. I will definitely be looking into the cylinder contribution more, but I did adjust the valves a few days ago and they were only very slightly out of spec.

I don't think so. The diesel and gas gauges are the same as far as I know because both just use a signal wire. On a diesel it would go to a sensor, and a Gas would go to the coil ground. I could always be wrong though.

I think I do need to adjust the valves. It has 170 or so hours and I bought it from an old guy at 150 hours.

Convenience, checking rpm under load (I'm suspecting the rings may be worn already, it feels weak compared to a newer engine of the same model that roars to life), idle adjustments, etc. I think it would be more useful than the ammeter that is there right now.

Just a generic tach. It has to be 2 1/4" to fit in the factory hole, but those are fairly easy to find. My only question is how would I get the signal? I have one of those tachs with a wire that you loop around and that's what I'm trying to get away from. These tachs say to attach the signal...

Im looking to add a tachometer gauge to my 2014 Craftsman T7400 with a Kohler KT735 engine. The tractor already has 2 holes for 2.25" gauges so I would be replacing the ammeter with a tach. How would I set it up to get the engine's rpm signal though? Has anyone done anything similar before...

You gotta run it at full speed every time because at idle, the engine takes a while to warm up the rings and close the gap. That gap is what is letting fuel past the rings and contaminating your oil. If you run at full speed, it does not take long for the gap to close.

Could be that the spindle pulleys are so used, the dust has polished them to a mirror finish making it not gripping the belt like it should

While we are on the topic of briggs manifolds, does anyone know what this port on the side of the intake is for?

Wow, I didn't know that spare part floating around in my shed was worth that much!

Ideally this would work, but this would make the intake not line up with the engine shroud and maybe also some linkage problems

1-2 Tablespoons?! Holy crap, man. Good luck getting it to start! That is waaaay too much oil. I use only a thin film of oil on the cylinder walls when I'm putting the cylinder in, that's all you need! Use a tablespoon and you'll basically choke out the combustion and it won't start.

Finally found the issue, bad keyswitch. The start terminal was melted on the inside, barely noticeable from the outside, covering a few contacts on the inside of the switch, so it didn't contact correctly. Plugged in a known working one and fired right up immediately! Thanks for the help.

You all still use SAE 30w??

I'm getting this too on Chrome but not on Safari.

All of the wiring is brand new, so there isn't any rust or corroded wires. I will be working all day tomorrow, but will definitely make time to test some things. Man, nothing is ever '"plug and play" as advertised...😜

Just installed the wiring today and all went great. Went to start it, and the relays on the engine wiring and the brand new wiring just click. Nothing at all. I haven't checked any safety switches or anything, but I know for a fact that it's not the solenoid or anything because a new one came...

Actually, you have to remove the engine cover, flywheel, and this plate under the flywheel to get to the 1/2" / T40 bolts. I know because I just built a v-twin one like this a few months ago.

Just bought the harness off of eBay. Was $190.

Well, That's why I try to hold out for Craftsman or Husqvarna riding mowers. Husqvarna's especially hold their value very well, almost on par with JD.

Oh for sure. I'm seeing several similar mowers for sale for around $1500, which would be a huge profit margin for the deal I got. Not to mention that it isn't even "mower season" here yet when the demand is crazy.

Well, I have came to the conclusion, after cutting off the salvageable parts, that this is not worth my time. This would be different if the harness was NLA, but since I got this for cheap, I'm comfortable spending a bit to get it running. And I'm not THAT confident that I could do a clean...

What engine model and brand is this? It is likely the starter bendix is dirty or some component on top is stuck or broken to prevent the gear from sliding up.

I have only owned one Kawasaki, a FR691v V-Twin in a Husqvarna GT54LS, and numerous Kohler V-Twins, 7000 series (I own 2 currently) and Courage series engines. In my short time having a Kawasaki V-Twin, I instantly grew to like it more than any of the other brands that I had experienced (Briggs...

Ok, I did find a tag on the wiring labelled it as 725-13068.

Thank you @StarTech and @Auto Doc's , I will see again if this is feasible with this wiring diagram (Thank you so much, StarTech) and will post photos of it's current condition.

PO said it was the headlight wires that got caught while mowing through brambles, and shorted the wires, melting just about everything as if it were crayons. Edit: Found an operator's manual online, no wiring diagrams or any schematics at all. This is the big thing I miss about Craftsman going...