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Kohler referred to them as elasto-head. Basically they were "according to them" made in such a way that the would match the expansion and contraction of the aluminum head with the cast iron interface of the block. The issue was if the head bolts were reused they engine would run fine until...

The area between the cylinder and the pushrod cavity may not be in flatness with the mounting surface is what i was getting at. The area around the bolt mating surface may check flat with a feeler gauge and the area that you cannot reach next to the straight pushrod cavity could be off 25...

Looks like oil coking. basically oil burnt into carbon.

Need engine model number to look up parts for engine.

bore specs incoming

If not leaking than I wouldn't mess with it. If it starts leaking then you can take care of the issue. You can make a new gasket if you want, but if done properly the rtv sealant works well also.

Was working on a Intek single this morning and when running a feeler gauge around the perimeter to check for flatness while on a glass plate, and found the head to be flat, but also when doing further measurements along found that the head was cupped resulting in the area between the cylinder...

Yes, was very common on Tecumseh engines.

My suspicion is since the bolt hole is there, dark area could be caused by different heat dissipation cause heat warpage of the cylinder walls causing that area to wear more. Can be cause by not using a torque plate when the cylinder is honed leading to out of round when the cylinder gets...

Or is that an offset flywheel key due to the engine being propane.

Crosshatching still present on cylinder walls which indicate less than .002 inch wear. Why are you putting rings in it. The cyinder walls look almost brand new with some hear discoloration next to a head bolt. So rings should still be in good shape.

The answer is simple. The dipstick in not inserted straight up and down. They are mounted at an angle, and some more than others.

We use Dipstick in the same context as the Aussie's do. So there is no difference in the meaning across continents.

Looks like both call for the 754-05022A or 954-05022A belt which according to SBD is 108.3 length. Are you sure that all belt guides are in place and not bent. Missing or misaligned belt guide can cause the belt to come off when the deck is disengaged.

Kohler doesn't call them that, but basically they are a torque to yield style bolt. The only ones I alway replaced were on the old K-series, because they had issue of heat related head gasket failure if the bolts were reused.

Did you use OEM belts, or a might fit belt. Also did you replace both belts.

My issue is people driving on the wrong side of the road. I have had days were I have to take the shoulder and lay on the horn to avoid up to 5 head on collision in a 20 mile span, while towing a trailer.

Now government work is important. Well, maybe less than 1%. And some of the factory techs I deal with would make an amoeba look intelligent.

Not directed toward you. I have spent the last 2 weeks dealing with people with the intelligence of a chipmunk.

Idiots. Those are not nuts those are studs with a 5/16 hex and it takes either a 5/16 deep well socket or just a plain ol 5/16 wrench

Most likely 7/16x20 with a 5/8 hex. MTD would supply the original bolt not briggs. So the MTD model numbe would give more information as far as length used.

Parts diagram calls it a Dana. Some transmissions will say Dana, Some Dana-Spicer, and others will just say Spicer. Same company.

The brake pads would be considered part of the Dana transaxle in which the model number of the tranny will be needed to look up that part.

Don't overlook the possibility of the afterfire solenoid on the carb failing.

Looks like the correct part number is hydro-gear 72134

The light bulb type testers are handy when dealing with heat failing coils, and are visible in bright light making them easy to see when the fail while you are mowing your yard with the customer mower for testing purposes.

This should be the spool https://www.partstree.com/parts/poulan-952711527/ And complete diagram for the head https://www.partstree.com/models/fl-20-weed-eater-featherlite-string-trimmer-type-1-2009-03/cutting-equipment-type-1-0/

The no hole primers used on Briggs engine are on the carb mounted on the top of the fuel tank, and when pushed inject raw fuel into the engine intake. The primer bulbs with the center hole are used to push air into the carb bowl which in turn forced fuel up the emulsion tube into the carb...

Something for consumers to keep in mind that present a unit to their local dealer and claim a warranty failure. Actual warranty payable manufacturer defects that your dealer gets paid for is 1-2 units out of every 200 units that the consumer claims should be a warranty item.

Parts are limited or not available in most cases for the consumer pressure washers. And in most cases even if you can repair the pump, a new pump isn't much more expensive then the part to repair the pump

Without the supply pump and a return pump it would be a wet sump engine and wouldn't be able to operate at angles past 25 or 30 degrees. In this case the limited factor for the angle of operation is actually the carb float. If it was EFI there basically wouldn't be an angle limit. Could...

I suspect the difference is the old part number is the low vent and the newer superceded part number of 790120 which according to Briggs is NLA would also require the replacement of the air filter mount.

Two oil pumps with remote mounted oil tank. one pump is full pressure lube to all the bearings, and the other oil pump, recovers the oil that drains from the bearings in the engine sump and pumps it back into the oil tank.

It can. Most engines are rated for a 25-30 degree slope with some as low as 20 degrees. Add in an oil level that is not at the full mark, and that safe angle drops dramatically.

The Kohler standard is less than 1 Volt And anything that drops the voltage at the starter solenoid below 9 volts won't engage the solenoid.

1999 or 2000 12A-559K401 or 12A-559K402

If you look at the metal flap hanging over the muffler in your picture. There is the start of a series of numbers That is the model, type and code for your engine.

Most of the time the fuel pickup coming from the top of the tank to the bottom is just a black hard or somewhat hard plastic line. And make sure you have a replacement grommet for the tank when you remove the fuel line insert since most of the time the grommet tears upon removal.

The engine that originally came on that mower had the 3/5 dual circuit non regulated charging system. The current engine is a 9 amp regulated system. So original wiring diagram for the mower will not be accurate for this application. And the fuse should be located in the area of the battery...

What is the model type and code from the metal flap on the engine. Sometimes the SBD model number can be located by cross referencing the engine model number.

Part number 699709 is the downward facing fuel solenoid but appears to supercede to 791230 which appears to be a side facing fuel solenoid.

Yes. The regulator has built in diodes that take the place in the wire. If you want you can disconnect the red connector at the VR, and run a wire directly that connector to the + battery connector and with the engine running see if the battery now is charging.

Is that a diode inside that shrink wrap on the front connector. I hope it isn't connected in series with the voltage regulator or it will never charge.

I think I still have the one around here that I made with an angle grinder using a flat piece of steel.

The big issue is making sure that seat properly when reinstalling after fueling, otherwise they like to dump the gas down your leg.

What is funny is that part number is also the part number for the MTD bagger.

May not of been meant for me, but the kohler fuel fllter wlll not damage your mower, and may even be a better filter than what is on there now. Have sold many of that exact part number over the years. Have used them on all brands of mowers over the past 28 years.

3 things to check. Is the new voltage regulator grounded The 5/9 regulator has a red and yellow wire that normally mounts next to the dipstick tube. There is a single screw that attaches it. There should be a grouding wire that attaches to the screw. Are you getting 12 volts from the wire...

Need to be careful about twisting the fuel line onto or off of fittings because with the modern low perm fuel lines it can damaged the plastic liner which causes it to collapse or break apart into pieces and end up in places that cause problems later.

I use this to pry most fuel lines loose from the fuel filter fittings. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/19620