JustinRaney
Active Member
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- Thread starter JustinRaney
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JustinRaney
Active Member
it says spicer on the diff.
ILENGINE
Lawn Royalty
Parts diagram calls it a Dana. Some transmissions will say Dana, Some Dana-Spicer, and others will just say Spicer. Same company.
To be sure as ILengine says need complete spicer number off the transaxle to be sure, usually stamped or sometimes a paper tag that falls off. You can download a free Tecumseh?peerless motion Drive Manual from this link and match your to one in the manual and the manual wilo show where to look for the ID.
Look at pg 66 for a general layout of most lawn tractor brake puck layout if using the disc type.
https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Peerless-Tecumseh-Transmissions-Transaxles-Differentials-Gear-Boxs/00_TECUMSEH PEERLESS Transmissions_Transaxles REPAIR MANUAL 691218.pdf
BUT,
You need to keep this in mind when you start into yours. Most require 2 brake pucks and you can search for lawn tractor brake pucks and see picture of such on flea bay for about $15 is the standard type.
But the tricky part is getting the two 1/4 or 5/16 dia bolts off without twisting one off in the aluminum housing due to steel and aluminum galding. They usually require working back and forth even when they start turning to come out. You can watch some you tube videos about such. I remove the Right rear wheel wheel and elevate the mower for good access and hammer/peck on the heads of the bolts and just use a 6 point wrench for a good feel. The longer bolt twists off easily. The assembly usually needs to be completely removed and cleaned so the new pucks move/slide freely in their housing when the brake is applied.
I use anti-seize on the threads when going back. The disc has to be pried off to get access to the rear puck. (splined slip fit)
But I DO NOT attempt replacement until I completely run out of adjustment because I know that I might have to try to drill out a twisted off bolt or do without brakes. It's usually the longer bolt that twists off.
Good Luck
.
Look at pg 66 for a general layout of most lawn tractor brake puck layout if using the disc type.
https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Peerless-Tecumseh-Transmissions-Transaxles-Differentials-Gear-Boxs/00_TECUMSEH PEERLESS Transmissions_Transaxles REPAIR MANUAL 691218.pdf
BUT,
You need to keep this in mind when you start into yours. Most require 2 brake pucks and you can search for lawn tractor brake pucks and see picture of such on flea bay for about $15 is the standard type.
But the tricky part is getting the two 1/4 or 5/16 dia bolts off without twisting one off in the aluminum housing due to steel and aluminum galding. They usually require working back and forth even when they start turning to come out. You can watch some you tube videos about such. I remove the Right rear wheel wheel and elevate the mower for good access and hammer/peck on the heads of the bolts and just use a 6 point wrench for a good feel. The longer bolt twists off easily. The assembly usually needs to be completely removed and cleaned so the new pucks move/slide freely in their housing when the brake is applied.
I use anti-seize on the threads when going back. The disc has to be pried off to get access to the rear puck. (splined slip fit)
But I DO NOT attempt replacement until I completely run out of adjustment because I know that I might have to try to drill out a twisted off bolt or do without brakes. It's usually the longer bolt that twists off.
Good Luck
.
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Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
eBay has them. They are the same fit for many riders of this era.
JustinRaney
Active Member
Theres no way to wear out anything passed the brake pucks or pads if adjusting them or to wear into a good brake disc? Its in great condition. I dont want to run into whats behind the brake pad or puck and do serious damage or tear up anything. The brakes work good with adjustment from when purchased new though i did do maybe at 1 full turn the nut turned real easily then brakes locked up when pedal is pressed. Someone told me only a 1/4 turn which didnt fix the issue i tried a couple more light turns with a ratchet and they come to a dead stop like when purchased new.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello J.,
I think the 1/4 turn at a time was just a precaution. These brake systems take adjustment and testing as you try out the operation.
I think the 1/4 turn at a time was just a precaution. These brake systems take adjustment and testing as you try out the operation.
sgkent
Lawn Addict
^^^^What others have written above^^^^
The company is Dana-Spicer. They typically label their equipment Dana. I think Allison bought them. Also sold as Foote corporation products, or sometimes private labeled for companies like Craftsman, John-Deere etc., Husqvarna. With the age of the unit, all the patents should be expired so I would think lots of clones would be available.
The company is Dana-Spicer. They typically label their equipment Dana. I think Allison bought them. Also sold as Foote corporation products, or sometimes private labeled for companies like Craftsman, John-Deere etc., Husqvarna. With the age of the unit, all the patents should be expired so I would think lots of clones would be available.
JustinRaney
Active Member
haha ok cool i thought maybe meant 1/4 turn tops anything else would eat into brakes or need new pads. Yeah it took maybe 3-4 times the 1/4 turn to get it to stop and drag the rear tires when pushed. The first maybe 2/3 it would then have the tires roll with resistance when pressed but the extra little bit allowed them to drag the tires.