Recent content by Born2Mow

Sorry to disagree. 100 to 60 is NOT a RATE. By its very definition a RATE always involves Time. "Miles" is not a Rate; "Miles per Hour" is a Rate. "Gallons" is not a Rate; "Gallons per Second" is a Rate. 100 to 60 is a percentage of leakage, but it does NOT describe a rate because NO Time was...

Taiwan, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia... these are all non-Communist nations (generally) in SE Asia that are good, fair trading partners with the US. And they have cheaper labor than the Chi-coms. Lots of production is located there or moving there. The price of labor in Japan has been...

Do you wash your mowers ? Or do they stay parked in a cool moist place, like an un-heated barn ? Your issue sounds like poor electrical connections caused by terminal corrosion. Rather than brushing the terminal clean, I like to use a chemical cleaner that leaves the protective finish intact on...

First run of the season... and most probably performed on last season's fuel. Empty all the old fuel in the tank, carb and fuel lines. Then go buy some brand new fuel. That's the most likely cause of the poor running. (You can put all that old fuel in your car without creating an issue. Your...

The valve WAS fully closed, if you really were in the compression stroke. So what prompted you to remove just 1 rocker arm ? Why not none or both ? Just curious. Of course the pressure dropped, because we're not talking about valves for plumbing. But how long did the drop take ? It's the RATE...

It would take more HP for the a/c compressor than for the blades or drive wheels !! Every cost considered, it would be cheaper to hire a model in a bikini to run along side your mower and spritz you with cool water !!

AND... the longer they slip, the harder the burned fiction surfaces get... which makes them slip even more. Pretty soon the squalling will start and there won't be any more doubt. Buy the OEM belts, not something off Amazon.

Step number one.... Air the tires up to the recommended pressures.

Clogged 2-stroke exhausts were common back when you would run pre-mix dino oil at 25:1. These days they are basically a thing of the past if you run synthetic at the very high ratios they now recommend. So your pre-mix ratio is wrong, your High jet is adjusted WAY too rich, or your air filter...

The issue can just as easily be trash in the fuel from a rusted tank or blown in dust. The carb is not "worn out". So he can clean his original carb, and if it needs float and needle then he can simply swap out the new parts from the new carb.

Some ideas... First of all primary compression is much more important on a 2-stroke than top-end compression. So your pressure readings don't really help. Pumping fuel only means fuel is getting to the carb.... not into or thru the carb. Are you using ethanol fuel ? Has the unit run with...

What's worn out about your carb ? Fuel moving around doesn't usually put much wear on metal.

Agreed. Examples: What are we going to eat, grandmother? What are we going to eat grandmother? +1. Use only a leaf blower and/or compressed air and/or vacuum. Using a pressure washer would probably create more problems than it would solve.

There are different types of plastic. Some get form-able when heat is applied. Some go really spastic and twist/shrink in very strange ways. Some simply collapse. What you want is a heat gun with a focused nozzle to even have a chance.

If there are electrical connectors on the devices you are inspecting, then it would be wise to unplug and then re-plug them as you go. Sometimes the brass connectors, which are common to this type machine, corrode during winter storage if there is exposure to humidity or they get washed...

I'd start with the explanation for the warning light. That should be in your 2020 owners manual. If you don't have one, then Google it. Rarely IME is a blinking light a good thing. :LOL:

You'd probably have more luck simply fastening a steel or alum angle to your material and let the plastic remain straight.

Not sure about your particular engine... but a rod or linkage (possibly associated with the throttle) should push the choke to the ON position, and the spring is usually there to insure that the choke butterfly returns to the OFF position when the linkage retracts. Failing all other efforts...

No experience with the Gravely. I'm sure it's a fine mower. Your Exmark (made by Toro) must be used because most of their larger mowers now come with their own engine... which (BTW) is getting rave reviews. The Exmarks are typically feature-rich in ways you only appreciate after long ownership...

Some ideas... You'll be changing either oil long before it's "worn out" simply to get rid of the water that gets trapped in the cases. Modern motor oils are doped with so many refinements that the difference gap is narrowing. Synthetic will have a slight edge at start-up. If your mower is a...

No fight here. If I restored older engines, I'd be using 10W40 or 15W40 diesel oil too. Maybe even 20W50 !! And you said most of your engines are used in 90° temps. They will be harder to pull start. But if given 15-30 seconds of idling to warm up they'll be fine. Cold viscosity is not a moot...

The cover (or cuttings under the cover) is probably turning the Choke to the ON position. Clear all the debris away around the carb. Obviously, the cover has to be in place to run the air-cooled engine.

Welcome Aboard !

By this I take it you get no response from the ignition switch, but the battery is charged and in good condition. If that is true, then your charging system is good. How else cound the battery test good, if it wasn't charged ? Start with checking the starter interlock switches on the seat...

You can get small rare earth magnets which you can epoxy into the well of your std nut driver. Or, you can look for the nut driver sets next to the replaceable screw driver bits. Lots of those have magnets in them. Link to DeWalt bit set

Most engine wear occurs in those first moments after starting, during what we call "warm-up". Multi-grades come into their own in water-cooled engines and air-cooled engines that have a tremendous oil supply. This is simply due to the slower or "extended" warm-up times in those engines. In...

Let's hear it for those magnetic nut drivers ! (y)

Toro/Exmark makes some of the best residential mowers available, in all categories. Exmark is to Toro, what Lexus is to Toyota. Exmark will be miles above anything from a "big box store" in reliability, ease of maintenance, parts availability, and noise. I posted a review HERE of my 44" Exmark...

Where is the battery Negative cable attached ? To the body of the mower or to the engine case ?

Black smoke is excessive fuel. Remove the top engine cowling and remove all the grass clippings from the top of the engine and in/around the carb actuating rods. Don't do this with water, high pressure air is highly preferred.

Try changing the fluids and filters on both sides.

Another satisfied customer ! :sneaky:

If it just started, then I advise a hydro unit fluid and filter change. If it's always been that way, then there are adjustments on the control levers.

Looks to be 0.030" standard. BE SURE and coat the threads with something before re-installing it. Never-Seize is best, but 2 drops of motor oil is WAY better than nothing. There is no external oil filter on the Dash. So it's important to change your oil regularly... while the engine is HOT ...

The different color denotes a radical difference in combustion between the sides. The issue with the stopping points to fuel and/or fuel delivery system issues which is causing the difference. Only 147 hours, but how many periods of storage or non-use longer than 8 weeks ?? And during that...

Need photos, model number, serial numbers, etc.

And the API service rating advanced to SH.... and is now at SN. But I believe that all oils rated SF/SG still have the zinc package. These are commonly labeled "for racing", "motorcycle" or some other title that precludes use in street vehicles with catalytic converters. This oil is rated SJ...

Without primary compression in the crankcase, the fluid never makes it to the combustion chamber. That's what the man is telling you.

Is "WOT" the same as "WFO" ?? These technical terms confuse me. :ROFLMAO:

1. Start with new fuel and a new air filter. That would explain the lack of difference between old and new carb. 2. Then the carb adjustments. There is a Hi and Lo adjustment screw. Hi is for full throttle (aka "WFO"). Three guesses what Lo is for.

The "seat switch" is usually under.... wait for it.... the Seat !! :ROFLMAO: What I suspect is that the switches are OK, but that the PO butchered the harness trying to by-pass the safeties. Probably not real pretty. Good luck.

>> Things have changed since you worked on V8's. The EPA got involved and redesigned the fuels AND the entire fuel delivery system (the carb, tank, breather, et al). >> 85% of the time it was the last action you took. Put the old air filter back on. If it runs great, then the new one is far...

Does the bottle have a circular seal indicating the API rating of the oil ? If it is what they say, then it should be rated for service SF or SG. Looks like this.

So what you're telling us is that "Tighten jets in carburetor" is now added to your Spring check list. :ROFLMAO: Congrats.

Another satisfied customer ! :cool:

Sounds like your issue is in the starter safety interlock system, and not the starter or engine. The seller definitely had to do some work to bypass the seat safety switch in order to get off and jump the starter. Now, you may have an additional switch failing. Start by testing all the switches...

Google is your friend.

Then install a manual fuel ON/OFF valve. Cost $6-$8 at most stores.

True.... Install all new fuel lines marked "SAE J30" because the alcohol attacks the older style "rubber". This also applies for the hose to the vacuum operated fuel pump, if present. The new EPA approved vent caps block easily.

News Flash: Zero turn mowers don't rut things by themselves. They need a little help from the driver.

What does the owner/operator's manual say they are ?

Let me guess... you installed some fuel you had sitting around in a can, OR you washed it off with a garden hose. Both look innocent enough, but the engine really doesn't like it.

Several ideas... How old is the fuel? Ethanol fuel can go "bad" in as short a time as 6-8 weeks. What happens is that the ethanol comes out of solution with the gasoline and all of a sudden the engine gets a couple of tablespoons of pure alcohol... which a low compression engine simply can't...

Apparently the engineers at Toro and Kohler think so.

The pump is vacuum operated. Ideas... Replace the hose that takes the vacuum from the engine to the pump with std automotive fuel hose rated SAE J30. Check that the pump output and input aren't reversed. Check the fuel lines for blockages or restrictions. Fuel line should be replaced every 5...

Your machine needs the additional richness of the choke. Therefore your machine is getting too much air, or not enough fuel by normal means. That could be 20 things.

Some ideas.... Your mower has a vacuum operated fuel pump. The diaphragm in these will give up. Some of the pumps allow diaphragm replacement, others you replace the whole unit. Check the fuel flow. Sometimes the EPA fuel tank breather system gets clogged. After several minutes of fuel to flow...

All valve stem seals I've ever seen were under the valve springs. Otherwise they'd need to be inside the intake or exhaust port and that wouldn't work. But not all engines use valve stem seals... because most engines don't pump enough oil into the rocker box to warrant them.

That's exactly what they're hoping !

While rolling or static ? Why don't you simply measure it ? Strap a lever of a known length onto the steering wheel and pull on the lever with a fish scale. And the measurement you need to operate the stock steering will be Torque, because the Force will vary with the length of the lever...

MTD riding mower, mid 90s, stops moving intermittently When I get to my mid-90's, I'll probably be moving fairly intermittently myself ! :ROFLMAO:

Good. That way I won't need to send you my rear view mirror dice or my cheery bomb mufflers !! :ROFLMAO:

Look for a bottle of StarTron at your hardware, boat store, small engine shop, Lowe's, Home Depot... any place that sells or services small engines. This stuff cleans AND stabilizes. Add about 1/2 oz to your main 5 gal fuel can. In that way it works its way into all your small engines. It's...

More thoughts... Octane is for acceleration. Since most mowers run at a constant engine speed, a higher grade of fuel will mean very little. The only place more expensive fuel would help is with the fuel cleaners and conditioners found in major brands like Shell and Chevron in their premium...

Let me get this straight. The owner has a mower. The mower is partially disassembled. But the owner doesn't know anything about what the pieces are or who might have taken it apart. Here's what I've seen a thousand times... The owner is acting ignorant because of 1 of 2 things... He knows the...

The next thing you should look for is the engine model number. Since you started a new thread, we can't possibly remember what engine or mower you're talking about. You need to tell us again. Try some starting fluid or some other spray you know will start engines. See if it will sputter with...

From your photos it looks much more like the doubled over end of the spring broke off. The landing (besides having a screw in it) looks just fine.

Power take off Please turn over Protesters taking over Photos taken on-line Pass the olives Please tell others Pastrami, tomatoes & onions Police training officer Please think of others

An Some ideas... How old is the oldest fuel in the tank ? Did the mower sit over the winter with fuel in the tank ? Don't be too quick to call that stuff "fuel". Ethanol does NOT stay in solution with gasoline. It has to be agitated or shaken regularly. After a dozen weeks of storage your...

If you can't find the correct unit, then Amazon has a selection. It's probably a 2-wire alternator, so all you need to know is the output of the system. I would guess that most are well under 7A. So you buy one with 2 yellow wires rated at 10-15A and you'll be fine.

Another satisfied customer ! :giggle:

It only "looks" old school. These days, because of EPA compliance, the carbs are so leaned out and so closely matched to the engines that swapping major parts around is really a no-no. You can certainly try it, but I'd take a bunch of cylinder head temp readings before and after for comparison...

All seals need lubrication at installation. No LocTite or other type of sealant should be required. Follow the instructions in the workshop manual, not internet rumors.

Now that is taking "2-tone color" to a new level. :ROFLMAO:

The loose brake lever is probably not engaging the interlock switch properly. The interlock will not allow the PTO to be engaged with the p-brake lever in the "wrong" position (or a position the switch is indicating is wrong). Therefore the interlock cuts the engine off to protect you. Find...

No sir. If the battery circuit was broken at any place, then the entire electrical system would be dead. Which would not show up until the mower was turned OFF.

GREAT FIND !! Back in the mid-50's a neighbor had one of those. I always thought it was cool. But even his power cord had 3 or 4 patches !!! :ROFLMAO:

When you get it to the drive, see if you can jump it off with the truck battery. The shock may have damaged the battery, or shaken a battery terminal loose. Check all 4 battery cable terminals. The engine would have continued to run using the alternator until you turned it off.

Some ideas.... Your mower does have a vacuum operated fuel pump. The diaphragm in these will give up. Some of the pumps allow diaphragm replacement, others you replace the whole unit. Your root problem may be associated with stale ethanol fuel being left in the carb over the winter. A...

Sounds like starter safety interlock system is holding you up. Seat switch, parking brake switch, and control lever switches all need to tell the starter it's OK to begin. Either you forgot something simple (like applying the parking brake) or (this is a long shot) one of the switches got...

Several ideas... How old is the fuel? Ethanol fuel can go stale in as short a time as 6-8 weeks. What happens is that the ethanol comes out of solution with the gasoline and all of a sudden the engine gets a couple of tablespoons of pure alcohol... which a low compression engine simply can't...

Use a photo editor or Paint to "Crop" the parts of the photo away that aren't important. There is an excellent free program called GIMP that has all the features of PhotoShop, if you want to get that fancy. If you have a photo that doesn't have any portion to cut away, you can use the Scale...

The new Toro v-twins seem fairly bullet proof.

Swapping the carb is an invitation for trouble. At the very least you will VOID any warranty on the new engine. Engine HP is a result of intake port design, valve size, compression ratio, cam timing, ignition timing, and 10 other things. Very little of that is carb. The design and jetting of...

If the problem is debris in the float valve, then it most likely will NOT be a single, solitary piece. Remove the float bowl and you may find an entire collection of smaller particles that made it through the float valve... all collected in the bottom of the bowl. Wipe the bottom of the bowl...

On some mowers that adjustment is right at the base of the steering arms, just before they go into the cowling.

No, that would not completely test the device or the wiring going to the device. A test lamp only tells you voltage is present, and nothing about the available current. For instance, 10V at 1/50A will allow a test lamp to "work", but not much else. Certainly not a PTO. Lets say the PTO...

Gas, Fire, Compression. Those are the Big 3. You found one of those. Go find the other 2.

Fuses don't just "blow" because they crave attention or "give up". So the fuse is NOT the problem, but rather a symptom of the problem. Look at a schematic for the mower and see what that fuse controls. Probably several things connected to that fuse. If there are no obviously burned up items in...

Did you leave Ethanol gasoline in the carb over the winter ? If so, you'll need to rebuild your carb, paying special attention to the low speed fuel passages and jets. You and about 200 of your closest friends all did the same thing.

The condition of the blade and the RPM of the blade probably make the most difference in cut quality, as long as you are comparing equal setups between the 2 mowers. By that I mean, you weren't running the Honda in "mulch mode" while the Yard Machine was running "side chute" mode, where you ...

No, it's at least the 20 virus. :ROFLMAO:

Let me guess... You just took this mower out of storage. It has the fuel in it from last September. And/or you stored it with fuel in the carb. I'm with Darryl. The old, dirty air filter is making up for blocked low-speed jets... which have been clogged by Ethanol fuel during winter storage...

There's a lot of "back-story" missing here. And your location is not in your profile, so we can't even use our imagination to fill it in. >> Did you put this mower away for the winter with this issue, or has it just developed it when you rolled it out for the first mow of the season ?? >> If...

"Could be" lots of things. Let's not play "coulda, shoulda, woulda" until the owner bothers to get back with details.

"Runs, but without power" type problems are typically low float level and/or clogged low-speed passages. Or it could be you simply got a California model that's jetted leaner. All of these issues work against the engine getting that last 5% of fuel needed to "run strong". Spend 30 minutes...

The weight kit that comes around about Thanksgiving and hangs on until February is the one that always gets me.

"When EF Hutton speaks, people listen. But when Mother Nature calls, by God they respond in a hurry !!"

You cannot test a battery at home. Because of its chemical nature, a battery is rarely Good/ Bad like a light bulb or a fuse. They have about 20 states of relative Goodness/ Badness. What can be done with the battery takes some pro testing to determine. Hope this helps.

1. Your mower deck is probably smashed in at some point, allowing the blade to strike it. Lift it up and rotate the blade by hand. It should clear everything by ~3/8 inch. 2. Second guess is that the spindle bearings (if your unit incorporates such) are shot. Maybe the belt pulls the bearings...

Welcome. Lift has to be measured in VERY precise locations. I notice your numbers are almost exactly half those specified, which simply makes me wonder. And wonder. Then rocker arms often multiply the lift of the cam. I've replaced lots of camshafts, but never one worn to half. I'm not doubting...

If you have an Ohm Meter you can check the individual switches to be working correctly. (Do Not start the mower.) Find each switch and disconnect the 2 wires. Attach the meter to the switch. When the switch is actuated (for instance P-brake taken On-Off) there should be an abrupt ON-OFF reading...

Ideas... Blocked fuel tank breather. Air can't can't enter, thus fuel can't leave. Ignition coil heat sensitive. Ignition control unit heat sensitive. Valve lash too tight. - See if it starts up 15-30 seconds after loosening the gas cap. - Check for spark by laying the spark plug on the cyl...

Between the Seat, Parking Break, and Control Arms there is a highly defined sequence to run the mower. Check your owner's manual again. On my Exmark it is: 1. driver in seat, 2. crank engine, 3. p-break OFF, 4. control arms can come in. If I don't move my control arms all the way out when...

Starters only engage the flywheel during the "cranking process". Afterwards they disengage. So the starter pinion should NOT be touching the flywheel at all while stopped or running. That's normal.

Then trace why your ignition suddenly quit. Water in the kill button ?? Throttle in the wrong position ?? Broken wire ?? Ignitions don't suddenly quit. There's an 85% chance it's something you did while cleaning. I'm not scolding you... that's just the way it is, brother.

If you KNOW that spray can be used as "starter fluid", then OK. I have no such experience. Confirm your suspicions with the plug out and laying on the cyl head.

The plug will be wet with fuel after a short "attempt to crank" session, if the carb is acting correctly. When the plug is out and laid on the cyl head, you should be able to see a bright blue spark day or night.

The fuel tank is above the carb, so fuel flows by gravity from the tank to the carb. In the fuel line between the tank and carb you'll want a 1) fuel shut off valve, and 2) a fuel filter. If rust formed in the empty tank during long storage, then particles could travel to the carb. That trash...

Ravenman - Very difficult for a starter to be "temperature dependent", unless 15yo grease on the bearings has oxidized and gotten hard. That's much more of a classic motorcycle issue than lawn mower. A battery is much more likely to be temperature dependent. But it should be 100% at ~68F and...

The first place to look is always at the just completed work. Your first level of diagnosis is always these 3 things: Fire, Compression, and Fuel. The second level is the timing of those first 3 items. You wrote quite a bit (thank you), but missed all the needed details. Example: You replaced...

Agreed. Mower ignitions can play havoc with newer digital meters. Best to use an old analog meter.

Hard to pinpoint the exact fault. The OP said he assembled it. No telling what all that entails. Then the store obviously does some assembling. Do they have a mower guy, or did they grab a "stock boy" and say, "Do this !" Obviously it's got to go back to the store unless the OP is capable of...

If you had a very high oil level and had also replaced the boots, then oil would indeed be able to leak out at the wheel. As I remember, a minor amount of oil is supposed to be in the boot to lubricate the sliding gear reduction unit AND one of the rear wheel bearings. (The other is lubricated...

It sounds to me like the rectifier might be compromised. 1 blown diode in the 4-way bridge would reduce the charge current by 1/2. Thus, everything is fine as long as nothing (head lamps, PTO, disco light ball, George Foreman electric grill) is turned ON. In that scenario the diminished charge...

I'm sure it's simple... most likely the V-belt is twisted the wrong direction.

Agreed. Craftsman ain't the same Craftsman we all grew up with. Someone bought the name and branding rights from Sears and is simply re-branding cheaper mowers. Do your daughter a BIG favor. Go get the Toro at a dealership.

This write-up is unclear. This is the way I read this... 1. Everything is fine. Engine will run and idle just great. No problems starting or running. 2. Then PTO is engaged. 3. Something gets "hot". Engine gets hot ? PTO gets hot ? Belts get hot ? More details needed. How do you know it's...

Vital spark of heavenly flame ! Quit, oh quit this mortal frame: Trembling, hoping, lingering, flying, --- Oh the pain, the bliss of dying ! -- Alexander Pope (1688–1744)

Correct. Ripped out wires is the symptom, not the problem.

Several things could cause that. All related to "tuning issues"... Old fuel. Is this fuel left over from last year ? That's the No.1 no-no. Carb needs idle mixture adjustments, or "idle circuit" inside carb is Old spark plug, plug fouling, plug burned to wide spark gap, other plug issues...

>> Was there a wash down recently, where water could have gotten into the fuel ? I'm thinking maybe you hit it with the garden hose to knock the pollen off and didn't think anything of it. That would explain the run, then no-run scenario. It does not explain the apparent loss of electrical...

If the tank is above the carb, then YES... if... while you have the hose disconnected you check for fuel flow by letting a couple of tablespoons of fuel squirt out of the hose. However, the pump may also serve the disguised purpose of being a automatic fuel cut off. With the tank higher than...

You shouldn't need to take the engine apart !! :ROFLMAO:

I don't suggest you stop the mower that way ! :ROFLMAO: Sorry, I couldn't help myself. And the pull cord feels the same before and after this massage ? I think you are flooding the engine with fuel when you tilt the mower up to turn the blade. I believe turning the engine is actually doing...

A model number might help us help you.

Welcome ! Was this the first run of the season ? Or has it been cranked and run within the last month, say late Feb or early March. If it was the first crank of the season, then what was done to prep it for winter storage ?

With a test light or VOM check the small terminal on the starter solenoid for the presence of 12V when you turn the ignition key to "Start". > If you do have power, then the solenoid needs checking. > If you do not have power, then the ignition switch (or whatever switch incorporates the "Start"...

Hello, James. Welcome.

1. The vacuum inside the line is lower than you think. The reinforced, double-wall of SAE J30 fuel line is more than strong enough to stand up to being used on a fuel vacuum line. That's what Exmark uses on my mower with a 22HP V-twin engine. That's what's on my B&S 7kW home generator uses...

I'd measure the required length. Then go to Lowes and walk myself over the spring assortments. Reality Check: It's a spring, not piston rings.

And then there's the ecological way...

Dielectric grease is great on new equipment, before trouble starts. But since it only stops new water from causing new corrosion it's not great. Probably work, but not the best. Look up the word "dielectric" in the dictionary and you'll start to understand.

Just let it burn off. There's minimal fire hazard. If the neighbors complain, tell them you're fogging for mosquitos. Of course, we'll need to send the Mower Police around tomorrow to check your Oil Change License, but those fines typically run under $400. Hope this helps.

The Hondas I'm familiar with the pull cord is just the pull cord and rewind spring. The ratchet sits atop the engine fan. Because of its location, the ratchet can get filled with bits of grass and leaves from mowing. You're supposed to blow all that AND the top of he engine off once a year. Use...

The Wattage will usually be printed on the bulbs or the wrapper they come in. The cheapest and brightest way to go is with the new LED lamps. You'll get more light and yet draw down your battery less by using LEDs. What ever bulb you decide upon, it must be 12V. Are the headlamps already wired...

White smoke is oil burning. • He's either grossly over-filled the engine. (Some is good, but more is never better.) • Or he's running some super-thin car oil in it. (Air-cooled engines run much hotter so the weight is critical.) • Or he poured the replacement oil into the wrong engine hole or...

A year outside in the weather (under a tarp simply intensifies the humidity) followed by a bath. Smells like a gross case of terminal corrosion. It's most probably on several contact points, not simply one. That's why it's hard to find and/or diagnose. Look at these 3 places.... • Inside the...

Joe Lean. I had to laugh.

Did you perhaps wash this mower after the first run ? Can you tell what brand of engine is on this unit ? Can you post photos ?

This is a common issue, so you are not alone. Let me begin by telling you what NOT to do. Don't get ham-fisted and try to force it. What will happen then is that you'll break off the spigot, and then you'll be buying a new cowling for your engine. In my limited experience it's best to first...

I will go further than that. Anytime you are not mowing you should have the fuel valve turned to OFF. If you are very conscientious, then you will turn the fuel OFF as soon as you leave the lawn... as you walk the mower back to the garage or car. In this way the fluid level inside the carb is...

Welcome ! My first thought is that your belts are slipping, and that smell is from very hot belts... not the exhaust. The belts can feel "tight" to the 'pull test' and you might suppose that is enough. But belts also need to be soft in order to grip the sheaves. As belts age, they also harden...

It might have a different bolt to denote a LH thread on that spindle... if the direction of rotation varies on that one blade.

Advanced ignition timing will have that effect at starting RPM. The ignition occurs before TDC, so the piston is pushed backwards. The pull cord ratchets are designed for one direction of rotation, so when the engine turns the opposite direction the cord gets abruptly yanked back.

Typically, you have a filter to remove the small debris from the hydraulic fluid. The problem is simpler than that. You change your fluids on a calendar basis due to WATER. These large cases experience internal condensation with the changes of seasons. This might not be an issue for the pro...

Some ideas... You can't lap the valves and get 100% contact on the valve and the seat if the valve is bent. You could have the adjuster on the intake valve too tight, or your valve timing can be off, thus forcing the valve to leak. You stated you ran this test at TDC. But you did not state...

^ This ^ and/or the friction of "going fast" has exceeded the power transmission capability of the common V-belt. In their proper power range V-belts rarely slip, but there is a limit. This is when you need roller chain and sprockets, or "toothed belts". But even these have their limits. If the...

• Sometimes the adjustment is directly to the idle Mixture, where the adjustment screw adjusts the amount of fuel. • Sometimes the fuel-to-air mixture is set by a small jet, and then an adjustment screw adjusts the Volume of mixture. So the idle jet could be clear, and yet the hidden screw...

Tell all the teens in the neighborhood that it's good stuff to smoke. It will be gone in 3 days. ?

Change the oil, if you haven't all ready. Could be something stupid simple like that.

Here's one of us doing it the correct way... :ROFLMAO:

I want to be like you guys when I grow up. I inflated my fronts to 20psi. I think I like it better than 13psi. No animals were hurt during this inflation test.

You are correct. Customers always appreciate mechanics trying to save them money on any job, until the unit breaks again 2 weeks later. Then they become downright abusive and you loose a customer. It's a delicate balance. If I had to run the risk of doing this job again for free if I didn't...

I tend to agree with Bert, somewhat. The true indicator to me is NOT the physical float position, but rather how the engine runs on the available mixture that fuel level produces. Do you feel or hear engine surging ? Is the spark plug white or colorless ? Yes, that float needle will produce a...

The problem is 2 fold: 1) The fuel tank is ABOVE the carb. Therefore GRAVITY (which has not been turned off in a LONG time) will always be trying (yes, even while you sleep) to push gasoline into the engine oil... where it can ruin your fine engine. So you DO NEED a fuel shut off. This is...

Most carbs have adjustments on the idle mixture. On carbs made since about 1995, these adjustments are set at the factory and then capped or covered to comply with EPA regs. The final opening is so tiny that idle settings are always the first to gum up as Ethanol fuel ages. I highly suggest you...

True. High speed jet is adjusted first because idle is such a tiny percentage of that. 2. On a 4-stroke I adjust idle mixture for maximum engine speed. (Max RPM is indicative of the most efficient burn. At idle no one cares about "mixture", the major concern is to stay running.) 3. Lastly...

That is so ancient !! Get with the program, Slomo. You should be using Slicker 60 at a minimum, or the new Slickest 70.

My 2020 Exmark manual lists 13psi the correct pressure in the "Front Caster - All Models" (that covers 44" to 60"), size 13x5.00-6. Tire pressures are only listed in the front of the manual in the Specifications section.

All of the above is predicated on the idea that there is no fuel in the tank OR carb that is over 6 weeks old. You MUST be using fresh fuel.

Got a link you can share ???

I'm in north GA and there have already been runs on seeds, tillers, canning supplies, etc. Seems everybody is growing something.

This is the type equipment I buy at Tractor Supply... if you have one near you. They'll have several designs in the $150 range.

Tractor Supply sells Purolator brand filters in my area. Their blue filters are higher rated than the ones colored red, but they are all top rated.

If it's not the seat switch, then maybe one of the similar switches on the hand brake or op lever position. A schematic will tell you what the other switches are (electrically) in the same circuit with the seat switch. Those switches would be tested in the same way. A schematic will not tell...