Unable to start mower

yannick

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Sorry, I guess this video guy, who makes money off what he posts, knows more than me. I’ve just found that when I’ve got the actual model numbers it is much easier to help people. Sorry to have wasted your time, as you also must know more than I do about fixing engines. Wish they had the internet and videos 50+ years ago when I tried to understand how small engines work.
Do you know what's really funny @Rivets, this guys video actually just fixed my issue and my lawn mower starts. It was the valve clearances that were out of spec, in fact there was zero clearance and tight. I have adjusted as per the specs that he found out which is between .004 - .008in.

Don't let your ego get in the way just because you think you have experience. The reason I shared the video was so you could see the engine and how it operates and in turn helped me diagnose the issue. Next time wind your neck in and be humble instead of a smart ass.

I want to thank everyone who has been trying to help me, I really appreciate your time and patience ?
 
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Rivets

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Didn’t I say you both know more than me, well maybe the video guy does. I’ve probably forgotten more about fixing engines than your millennium brain can digest. My experience (ego) tells me that from what you posted in this thread, you got lucky to find a guy smarter than you, as not one person ever suggested checking valve clearance. Bert, Scrub and Star all were looking at a fuel or ignition problem, based on the info you posted. Star even requested the same model, type and code numbers in post #8. Your only reply was a basic 90000 series engine. Any good mechanic will tell you that to get the best results when troubleshoot an engine, he needs to know the exact engine involved, but I guess you’re the DIY guy who just needs videos. I’m glad your problem is solved and you’ll be on your way.
 

yannick

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Didn’t I say you both know more than me, well maybe the video guy does. I’ve probably forgotten more about fixing engines than your millennium brain can digest. My experience (ego) tells me that from what you posted in this thread, you got lucky to find a guy smarter than you, as not one person ever suggested checking valve clearance. Bert, Scrub and Star all were looking at a fuel or ignition problem, based on the info you posted. Star even requested the same model, type and code numbers in post #8. Your only reply was a basic 90000 series engine. Any good mechanic will tell you that to get the best results when troubleshoot an engine, he needs to know the exact engine involved, but I guess you’re the DIY guy who just needs videos. I’m glad your problem is solved and you’ll be on your way.
Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made that up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.
 

bertsmobile1

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Yannick
way you fail to understand is there are a lot of variations to your engine.
The owners manual is of no use to us trying to work out which engine you have
500e is the same as saying I have a Ford Mustang & expecting people to know exactly which engine & transmission you have.
Some where on the engine will be the model type & serial numbers
They will look something like this ( the leading
091234 1234-X1 191112ZA
That is what we need because that tells us which of the 3 different carbs are fitted plus a lot of other details that allows us to help you.
A zero valve lash is a rare problem on an OHV and should have been accompanied by the engine being very easy to pullover ( a symptom you did not mention ) and on an OHV usually is an indication of far more serious problems unless it was because you set them wrong to start with .
OHV engine wear increases valve lash
SV engine wear reduces valve lash.

And just so you know you can not test a modern magneto module with an ohm meter because of the trigger module.
You can check the secondary windings which includes the the plug lead & cap .
You probably worked that out by now
The video you watched is done by one of the back yard butchers who gives mower technicians a bad name .
When I first started making a living from repairing mowers I did watch some of this videos but soon realized he had very little knowledge about what he was doing apart from "if it looks pretty I will turn a few quid "
OTOH he thanks you for the 2p he would have made if you stayed for the full 30 minutes .
And the spare parts retailer thanks you for the purchase of the new magneto module that you did not need.

I did not watch the entire 30 minutes but fast forwarded through the video so I could see what he was pointing to.
The entire time he never showed where the actual B & S numbers were but pointed out the Masport serial number with the 1/2 truth that you need that number to get all the right parts , which is sort of correct except he forgot to add ONLY IF YOU GO TO A MASPORT DEALER because they are the only people who can decode that number , no other mower shop or parts retailer could use those numbers where as everyone can access the B & S engine parts books & using the codes & serial number can supply the correct parts .
 
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bertsmobile1

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Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made that up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.
Yannic you did not give the model number and the owners handbook that covers over 100 engine variations is NOT A MANUAL
To put it in computer terms it is like saying you have an Apple I-Mac and expecting us to know which one of the 74 different variation you have
And that should have been 100% obvious by the fact the owners handbook lists 4 different models with 3 different engine capacities right there on the front cover .

Forums are like computers .
What you get out of them is a direct result of the data you put in
Input trash or incomplete data and you get rubbish results.
You were asked for the data that we needed and came back with the arrogant response that you gave us the model number & manual where as you gave us the SERIES number & running instructions.
The real MANUAL for your engine is around 200 pages of English not 4 pages of pictograms .

Your attitude rather reminds me of the IT consultants that Allied Couriers brought in to upgrade & consolidate their computer systems , which were a mess of different suppliers products that did not directly communicate with each other in real time .
They came in on Monday morning, sat next to a despatcher for 15 minutes , sat next to booker for about 5 minutes then spent an hour with accounts .
As they were leaving I asked when they would be back again.
"We have seen all we need to know" was the answer , which floored just about everyone .
They came back around a fourtnight , on Thusrday night & installed the new softwear, checked it was working then came back Friday morning at 10 am , the system failed at 12 noon, totally overwhelmed so we had to drag in a dozen drivers to man phones & write out job tickets , they had no idea that Monday morning was the quietist P to P time as the bulk of the work Monday morning was overnight deliveries .
So when Friday came around & jobs started coming in at 12,000 and hour their really cleaver upgrade fell over .
I asked them why they decided to go live on the busiest day of the week at the end of the month which is also more busy and they replied "so it could be tweaked over the weekend if needed " and continues with "you never told us that volumes varied on weekly & mounthly cycles, you should have had us here at the busiest time not the quietists time "
That one afternoon cost Allied over $ 1,000,000 in direct losses and countless more with the customers who switched to another carrier .
And don't ask me about Microsloth Monkeys & NAVS

If the EXPERTS ask you for the numbers then the answer is "Where would I find them " not " I gave you all the information you need & even linked to the manual "
 
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yannick

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Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.

Yannick
way you fail to understand is there are a lot of variations to your engine.
The owners manual is of no use to us trying to work out which engine you have
500e is the same as saying I have a Ford Mustang & expecting people to know exactly which engine & transmission you have.
Some where on the engine will be the model type & serial numbers
They will look something like this ( the leading
091234 1234-X1 191112ZA
That is what we need because that tells us which of the 3 different carbs are fitted plus a lot of other details that allows us to help you.
A zero valve lash is a rare problem on an OHV and should have been accompanied by the engine being very easy to pullover ( a symptom you did not mention ) and on an OHV usually is an indication of far more serious problems unless it was because you set them wrong to start with .
OHV engine wear increases valve lash
SV engine wear reduces valve lash.

And just so you know you can not test a modern magneto module with an ohm meter because of the trigger module.
You can check the secondary windings which includes the the plug lead & cap .
You probably worked that out by now
The video you watched is done by one of the back yard butchers who gives mower technicians a bad name .
When I first started making a living from repairing mowers I did watch some of this videos but soon realized he had very little knowledge about what he was doing apart from "if it looks pretty I will turn a few quid "
OTOH he thanks you for the 2p he would have made if you stayed for the full 30 minutes .
And the spare parts retailer thanks you for the purchase of the new magneto module that you did not need
This seems like a Briggs and Stratton issue and their "manuals". I went on their website, I typed in the model information that is stamped on the mower, I then got back the manual I posted. That's all Briggs and Stratton provide, I'm afraid. I even have the manual that came with the mower which again is the exact one I provided a link for. I added that the variant was the 90000 model. If there was more to provide I would have done that.

I have never touched the valves and I have owned this from new. Oil level is checked regularly.

Yes I worked out eventually that checking the resistance on the magneto was irrelevant. Yes, I spent money on the magneto and spark plug, but sometimes life teaches you things the hard way. It wasn't a huge outlay in the end.

I appreciate that there are some YT cowboys out there and often talk a lot of :poop:. I want to reiterate that the purpose of the video was not show anyone here how to suck eggs, it was to show you the engine I have and the mechanisms of how it operates. I like visuals as it helps me so was just trying to give everyone a visual, not to pay attention of what this guys was really talking about.

I appreciate your response, thank you.
 

bertsmobile1

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This seems like a Briggs and Stratton issue and their "manuals". I went on their website, I typed in the model information that is stamped on the mower, I then got back the manual I posted. That's all Briggs and Stratton provide, I'm afraid. I even have the manual that came with the mower which again is the exact one I provided a link for. I added that the variant was the 90000 model. If there was more to provide I would have done that.

I have never touched the valves and I have owned this from new. Oil level is checked regularly.

Yes I worked out eventually that checking the resistance on the magneto was irrelevant. Yes, I spent money on the magneto and spark plug, but sometimes life teaches you things the hard way. It wasn't a huge outlay in the end.

I appreciate that there are some YT cowboys out there and often talk a lot of :poop:. I want to reiterate that the purpose of the video was not show anyone here how to suck eggs, it was to show you the engine I have and the mechanisms of how it operates. I like visuals as it helps me so was just trying to give everyone a visual, not to pay attention of what this guys was really talking about.

I appreciate your response, thank you.
If I log into the IBM server as a customer would I see the same information as if I logged into it as an employee or technician ?
If you have typed in the model type & serial numbers it should have thrown up the operators instructions & parts list .
The technical manual comes up when an authorised B & S repair agent logs into the technicans portal .
If you used the mower's model number then all you will get is the instruction book and perhaps the parts list for the mower which would only show the engine as a single item and perhaps the service replacement parts like filters .
Rubbish in = rubbish out
The very first thing the teach in Systems Engineering
 

yannick

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If I log into the IBM server as a customer would I see the same information as if I logged into it as an employee or technician ?
If you have typed in the model type & serial numbers it should have thrown up the operators instructions & parts list .
The technical manual comes up when an authorised B & S repair agent logs into the technicans portal .
If you used the mower's model number then all you will get is the instruction book and perhaps the parts list for the mower which would only show the engine as a single item and perhaps the service replacement parts like filters .
Rubbish in = rubbish out
The very first thing the teach in Systems Engineering
There is some info that you raised that I did not realise considering this is a very consumer grade machine i.e. Not overly complicated. I apologise, I was clearly ignorant to there being a technician manual for this engine and that members here would have access to see those. You live and learn. Thanks for explaining.
 

TwinL

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Hi Team,

I have a B&S 500e powered lawn mower. I have only had this thing a couple of years or there abouts, so not very old at all. I went to start it a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get it going. Been sat in the shed a few weeks prior and was working fine. Have noticed a few months back that it was getting harder and harder to start. Anyway, I've had it apart. Have cleaned the carburetor, although it was mint inside. I have checked the oil level. I checked the armature resistance and got a reading of over 6Kohms ( I read that these should be between 2.5 - 5Kohms. Not sure how accurate that is?). So I ordered a replacement which reads at 8.45Kohms, so I am assuming the readings on these are not necessarily reliable to go by? The gap recommended on the manual for the armature is between .006 - .014 in, so I went inbetween at .010. I also replaced the spark plug. Still, I get not start. I get backfires occasionally, but not even a hint that it wants to go. I am a bit stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance!
Hi Team,

I have a B&S 500e powered lawn mower. I have only had this thing a couple of years or there abouts, so not very old at all. I went to start it a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get it going. Been sat in the shed a few weeks prior and was working fine. Have noticed a few months back that it was getting harder and harder to start. Anyway, I've had it apart. Have cleaned the carburetor, although it was mint inside. I have checked the oil level. I checked the armature resistance and got a reading of over 6Kohms ( I read that these should be between 2.5 - 5Kohms. Not sure how accurate that is?). So I ordered a replacement which reads at 8.45Kohms, so I am assuming the readings on these are not necessarily reliable to go by? The gap recommended on the manual for the armature is between .006 - .014 in, so I went inbetween at .010. I also replaced the spark plug. Still, I get not start. I get backfires occasionally, but not even a hint that it wants to go. I am a bit stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance!
I seen a couple of comments in regard to the flywheel key that's likely a very good possibility , I had one recently a friend gave me he was fed up for hard starting and had a miss , I did the normal service even checked the flywheel key , but didn't pull the flywheel , put ever thing back together , he was here at the shop , I started it it took about 6 -7 primer button pushes , he said it still has that miss , I pulled apart again the flywheel key was very slightly sheared , normally they shear and turn 1/8 -1/4 turn and will back fire like crazy and kick back and pull cord out of you hand , I've changed many broken keys over the years , but first time a very slight shear off .
 

StarTech

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And some do have access the Briggs Power Portal (dealer support site). For me I never got around to learning how to convert the layman's model descriptions to actual model series.

As for the service manual there is at least three different ones that cover these engines but they actually cover a group of engines. One manual may not even cover all of the engines in the size range of the walk behind used engines.

Single cylinder OHV
DOV 700-750
And Professional series

And yes a partially shear flywheel key can cause some strange problems.
 
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