Export thread

Hi Team,

I have a B&S 500e powered lawn mower. I have only had this thing a couple of years or there abouts, so not very old at all. I went to start it a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get it going. Been sat in the shed a few weeks prior and was working fine. Have noticed a few months back that it was getting harder and harder to start. Anyway, I've had it apart. Have cleaned the carburetor, although it was mint inside. I have checked the oil level. I checked the armature resistance and got a reading of over 6Kohms ( I read that these should be between 2.5 - 5Kohms. Not sure how accurate that is?). So I ordered a replacement which reads at 8.45Kohms, so I am assuming the readings on these are not necessarily reliable to go by? The gap recommended on the manual for the armature is between .006 - .014 in, so I went inbetween at .010. I also replaced the spark plug. Still, I get not start. I get backfires occasionally, but not even a hint that it wants to go. I am a bit stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance!

Diagnose the problem don't throw parts at it hoping that is the one that fixes it. Oh I forgot that is the process of elimination. First determine why it won't start. Is it an ignition problem or a fuel problem. Todays ignition modules are like this they are either good or bad most manufacture don't give any specs. Sometimes you will get one that won't fire when it gets hot. Check for spark. Take a spark glug and open the gap up to 1/4 inch and if spark jumps the gap it is good. Oh yes you have to ground the body of the plug against the engine block. If it has spark spray a little gum out carb. cleaner in the carb. If it starts and dies them it a fuel issue. Probably a carb. issue. Hope this helps.

The auto choke on thee POS B & S engines gives no end of problems
Make sure it is closing fully when you are trying to start the cold engine

remove the air filter cover and filter, spray some carb cleaner, starting fluid or dribble some gas right into the carb, and see if it will fire up on that, Now:

1. If it runs and dies, fuel delivery issue
2. If it Runs and continues to run fine, i'd suspect what Bert said.
3. No run at all, i'd unplug the small wire from the ignition coil. that is your kill wire which creates a path to ground for the coil, killing spark. If it starts with that unplugged, the wire insulation got a visit from Jerry and Tom didn't know or the switch mechanism is bad.

hlw49 said:

Diagnose the problem don't throw parts at it hoping that is the one that fixes it. Oh I forgot that is the process of elimination. First determine why it won't start. Is it an ignition problem or a fuel problem. Todays ignition modules are like this they are either good or bad most manufacture don't give any specs. Sometimes you will get one that won't fire when it gets hot. Check for spark. Take a spark glug and open the gap up to 1/4 inch and if spark jumps the gap it is good. Oh yes you have to ground the body of the plug against the engine block. If it has spark spray a little gum out carb. cleaner in the carb. If it starts and dies them it a fuel issue. Probably a carb. issue. Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your response. Will give the diagnosis another go, but your pointers were helpful. Will report back with my findings.

bertsmobile1 said:

The auto choke on thee POS B & S engines gives no end of problems
Make sure it is closing fully when you are trying to start the cold engine

Click to expand...

Hi @bertsmobile1, thanks for getting back to me. Which part on the engine is the auto choke mechanism?

I don't believe my mower has an auto choke. It has a throttle control. I checked to see if it opens fully and closes when moved to full throttle and closed throttle.

In order for anyone to know exactly which engine you have we the actual model, type, and date code.

Now with being that small of an engine I assume you have a walk behind mower. IF so check the flywheel key as it can be partially or fully sheared. Do this especially since is back firing again assuming you mean out of the carburetor.

StarTech said:

In order for anyone to know exactly which engine you have we the actual model, type, and date code.

Now with being that small of an engine I assume you have a walk behind mower. IF so check the flywheel key as it can be partially or fully sheared. Do this especially since is back firing again assuming you mean out of the carburetor.

Click to expand...

High @StarTech, appreciate your response. Yes, a push mower with a small engine, only 140cc. Here is the link to the manual, this is according to the details printed on the engine (Model: 90000) - https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=ngjxDEW9p8ZVj5K1w

Yes, the backfiring is coming out from the carburetor. I have not checked the flywheel key as of yet, so that will be my next task. The manual does not give the torque setting for the flywheel. Might have to use my deflector torque wrench to find the torque when releasing the nut.

It should be 60 ft-lb for that OHV engine.

Many of the major auto parts stores will loan you a torque wrench, no charge.

Rivets said:

Many of the major auto parts stores will loan you a torque wrench, no charge.

Click to expand...

or for a refundable deposit.

StarTech said:

It should be 60 ft-lb for that OHV engine.

Click to expand...

Thanks! You were right about the 60 ft-lb. When undoing the nut it released around the 60 ft-lb mark. So I checked the key and she is perfect. No signs whatsoever of damage. I am at a real loss to the issue.

To recap I have done the following:

1. replaced armature (since taking off the flywheel and reassembling, I have adjusted the armature gap to .007in from .010in)
2. changed the spark plug and gapped it to .020in as per manual
3. cleaned carburetor twice
4. checked flywheel key
5. checked that the linkages for the throttle system is operating as expected.
6. changed oil yesterday

The 500e engine came with :-
cable controlled choke , you pull the lever all the way up. start the engine then push it back to the rabbit position
Primer button that you pus till your finger falls off & still the thing won't start
Auto choke where the choke is connected to a thermostat on the muffler & an air vane so when cold the choke is fully on & when running or hot the choke is off. Highly failure prone .

bertsmobile1 said:

The 500e engine came with :-
cable controlled choke , you pull the lever all the way up. start the engine then push it back to the rabbit position
Primer button that you pus till your finger falls off & still the thing won't start
Auto choke where the choke is connected to a thermostat on the muffler & an air vane so when cold the choke is fully on & when running or hot the choke is off. Highly failure prone .

Click to expand...

Yeah the engine is a piece of . Never want to purchase a Briggs and Stratton made engine again. Mine is with a cable controlled choke.

In that case check that when the cable is in the choke position that the choke is fully closed .
It is fairly common for the cable to slip under the clamp so it no longer fully closes the choke.
The other thing that I have come across is the actual choke butterfly which is not fixed into the shaft with a screw can slide a little sideways so again it can not fully close ( a dab of silicon works wonders )

bertsmobile1 said:

In that case check that when the cable is in the choke position that the choke is fully closed .
It is fairly common for the cable to slip under the clamp so it no longer fully closes the choke.
The other thing that I have come across is the actual choke butterfly which is not fixed into the shaft with a screw can slide a little sideways so again it can not fully close ( a dab of silicon works wonders )

Click to expand...

Hi @bertsmobile1, the way this lawnmower works is you put the throttle in the open position (i.e. full throttle), prime it and then pull the starter. I had a look at all the linkage mechanism and it seems that all the tolerances are in check. When the in open throttle position the butterfly in the carburetor is open fully, which makes sense.

How about posting the model, type and code numbers for your engine so we can see exactly what you have?

Rivets said:

How about posting the model, type and code numbers for your engine so we can see exactly what you have?

Click to expand...

Hi @Rivets, I have actually posted and even given a link to the manual of the engine. Here is a YT video of the exact engine and is quite a detailed maintenance video of how it operates -

Sorry, I guess this video guy, who makes money off what he posts, knows more than me. I’ve just found that when I’ve got the actual model numbers it is much easier to help people. Sorry to have wasted your time, as you also must know more than I do about fixing engines. Wish they had the internet and videos 50+ years ago when I tried to understand how small engines work.

Rivets said:

Sorry, I guess this video guy, who makes money off what he posts, knows more than me. I’ve just found that when I’ve got the actual model numbers it is much easier to help people. Sorry to have wasted your time, as you also must know more than I do about fixing engines. Wish they had the internet and videos 50+ years ago when I tried to understand how small engines work.

Click to expand...

Do you know what's really funny @Rivets, this guys video actually just fixed my issue and my lawn mower starts. It was the valve clearances that were out of spec, in fact there was zero clearance and tight. I have adjusted as per the specs that he found out which is between .004 - .008in.

Don't let your ego get in the way just because you think you have experience. The reason I shared the video was so you could see the engine and how it operates and in turn helped me diagnose the issue. Next time wind your neck in and be humble instead of a smart ass.

I want to thank everyone who has been trying to help me, I really appreciate your time and patience ?

Didn’t I say you both know more than me, well maybe the video guy does. I’ve probably forgotten more about fixing engines than your millennium brain can digest. My experience (ego) tells me that from what you posted in this thread, you got lucky to find a guy smarter than you, as not one person ever suggested checking valve clearance. Bert, Scrub and Star all were looking at a fuel or ignition problem, based on the info you posted. Star even requested the same model, type and code numbers in post #8. Your only reply was a basic 90000 series engine. Any good mechanic will tell you that to get the best results when troubleshoot an engine, he needs to know the exact engine involved, but I guess you’re the DIY guy who just needs videos. I’m glad your problem is solved and you’ll be on your way.

Rivets said:

Didn’t I say you both know more than me, well maybe the video guy does. I’ve probably forgotten more about fixing engines than your millennium brain can digest. My experience (ego) tells me that from what you posted in this thread, you got lucky to find a guy smarter than you, as not one person ever suggested checking valve clearance. Bert, Scrub and Star all were looking at a fuel or ignition problem, based on the info you posted. Star even requested the same model, type and code numbers in post #8. Your only reply was a basic 90000 series engine. Any good mechanic will tell you that to get the best results when troubleshoot an engine, he needs to know the exact engine involved, but I guess you’re the DIY guy who just needs videos. I’m glad your problem is solved and you’ll be on your way.

Click to expand...

Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made that up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.

Yannick
way you fail to understand is there are a lot of variations to your engine.
The owners manual is of no use to us trying to work out which engine you have
500e is the same as saying I have a Ford Mustang & expecting people to know exactly which engine & transmission you have.
Some where on the engine will be the model type & serial numbers
They will look something like this ( the leading
091234 1234-X1 191112ZA
That is what we need because that tells us which of the 3 different carbs are fitted plus a lot of other details that allows us to help you.
A zero valve lash is a rare problem on an OHV and should have been accompanied by the engine being very easy to pullover ( a symptom you did not mention ) and on an OHV usually is an indication of far more serious problems unless it was because you set them wrong to start with .
OHV engine wear increases valve lash
SV engine wear reduces valve lash.

And just so you know you can not test a modern magneto module with an ohm meter because of the trigger module.
You can check the secondary windings which includes the the plug lead & cap .
You probably worked that out by now
The video you watched is done by one of the back yard butchers who gives mower technicians a bad name .
When I first started making a living from repairing mowers I did watch some of this videos but soon realized he had very little knowledge about what he was doing apart from "if it looks pretty I will turn a few quid "
OTOH he thanks you for the 2p he would have made if you stayed for the full 30 minutes .
And the spare parts retailer thanks you for the purchase of the new magneto module that you did not need.

I did not watch the entire 30 minutes but fast forwarded through the video so I could see what he was pointing to.
The entire time he never showed where the actual B & S numbers were but pointed out the Masport serial number with the 1/2 truth that you need that number to get all the right parts , which is sort of correct except he forgot to add ONLY IF YOU GO TO A MASPORT DEALER because they are the only people who can decode that number , no other mower shop or parts retailer could use those numbers where as everyone can access the B & S engine parts books & using the codes & serial number can supply the correct parts .

yannick said:

Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made that up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.

Click to expand...

Yannic you did not give the model number and the owners handbook that covers over 100 engine variations is NOT A MANUAL
To put it in computer terms it is like saying you have an Apple I-Mac and expecting us to know which one of the 74 different variation you have
And that should have been 100% obvious by the fact the owners handbook lists 4 different models with 3 different engine capacities right there on the front cover .

Forums are like computers .
What you get out of them is a direct result of the data you put in
Input trash or incomplete data and you get rubbish results.
You were asked for the data that we needed and came back with the arrogant response that you gave us the model number & manual where as you gave us the SERIES number & running instructions.
The real MANUAL for your engine is around 200 pages of English not 4 pages of pictograms .

Your attitude rather reminds me of the IT consultants that Allied Couriers brought in to upgrade & consolidate their computer systems , which were a mess of different suppliers products that did not directly communicate with each other in real time .
They came in on Monday morning, sat next to a despatcher for 15 minutes , sat next to booker for about 5 minutes then spent an hour with accounts .
As they were leaving I asked when they would be back again.
"We have seen all we need to know" was the answer , which floored just about everyone .
They came back around a fourtnight , on Thusrday night & installed the new softwear, checked it was working then came back Friday morning at 10 am , the system failed at 12 noon, totally overwhelmed so we had to drag in a dozen drivers to man phones & write out job tickets , they had no idea that Monday morning was the quietist P to P time as the bulk of the work Monday morning was overnight deliveries .
So when Friday came around & jobs started coming in at 12,000 and hour their really cleaver upgrade fell over .
I asked them why they decided to go live on the busiest day of the week at the end of the month which is also more busy and they replied "so it could be tweaked over the weekend if needed " and continues with "you never told us that volumes varied on weekly & mounthly cycles, you should have had us here at the busiest time not the quietists time "
That one afternoon cost Allied over $ 1,000,000 in direct losses and countless more with the customers who switched to another carrier .
And don't ask me about Microsloth Monkeys & NAVS

If the EXPERTS ask you for the numbers then the answer is "Where would I find them " not " I gave you all the information you need & even linked to the manual "

yannick said:

Who even suggested, that either myself or this guy on the video was smarter than you? I think you'll find that you made up all by yourself. I frankly don't care how many years of experience you have, does it mean you know everything there is to know about every type of engine? You know what, I was lucky to find this video because I don't know anything about engines, really. That is why I came to this forum to ask experienced people what the cause could be. I work in IT and know all about giving details and I repeat, I gave the model number AND link to the manual to the exact engine. Not sure what else I could have given you?

I will certainly be on my way and hope that this thread helps someone else trying to diagnose the same engine.

Click to expand...

bertsmobile1 said:

Yannick
way you fail to understand is there are a lot of variations to your engine.
The owners manual is of no use to us trying to work out which engine you have
500e is the same as saying I have a Ford Mustang & expecting people to know exactly which engine & transmission you have.
Some where on the engine will be the model type & serial numbers
They will look something like this ( the leading
091234 1234-X1 191112ZA
That is what we need because that tells us which of the 3 different carbs are fitted plus a lot of other details that allows us to help you.
A zero valve lash is a rare problem on an OHV and should have been accompanied by the engine being very easy to pullover ( a symptom you did not mention ) and on an OHV usually is an indication of far more serious problems unless it was because you set them wrong to start with .
OHV engine wear increases valve lash
SV engine wear reduces valve lash.

And just so you know you can not test a modern magneto module with an ohm meter because of the trigger module.
You can check the secondary windings which includes the the plug lead & cap .
You probably worked that out by now
The video you watched is done by one of the back yard butchers who gives mower technicians a bad name .
When I first started making a living from repairing mowers I did watch some of this videos but soon realized he had very little knowledge about what he was doing apart from "if it looks pretty I will turn a few quid "
OTOH he thanks you for the 2p he would have made if you stayed for the full 30 minutes .
And the spare parts retailer thanks you for the purchase of the new magneto module that you did not need

Click to expand...

This seems like a Briggs and Stratton issue and their "manuals". I went on their website, I typed in the model information that is stamped on the mower, I then got back the manual I posted. That's all Briggs and Stratton provide, I'm afraid. I even have the manual that came with the mower which again is the exact one I provided a link for. I added that the variant was the 90000 model. If there was more to provide I would have done that.

I have never touched the valves and I have owned this from new. Oil level is checked regularly.

Yes I worked out eventually that checking the resistance on the magneto was irrelevant. Yes, I spent money on the magneto and spark plug, but sometimes life teaches you things the hard way. It wasn't a huge outlay in the end.

I appreciate that there are some YT cowboys out there and often talk a lot of . I want to reiterate that the purpose of the video was not show anyone here how to suck eggs, it was to show you the engine I have and the mechanisms of how it operates. I like visuals as it helps me so was just trying to give everyone a visual, not to pay attention of what this guys was really talking about.

I appreciate your response, thank you.

yannick said:

This seems like a Briggs and Stratton issue and their "manuals". I went on their website, I typed in the model information that is stamped on the mower, I then got back the manual I posted. That's all Briggs and Stratton provide, I'm afraid. I even have the manual that came with the mower which again is the exact one I provided a link for. I added that the variant was the 90000 model. If there was more to provide I would have done that.

I have never touched the valves and I have owned this from new. Oil level is checked regularly.

Yes I worked out eventually that checking the resistance on the magneto was irrelevant. Yes, I spent money on the magneto and spark plug, but sometimes life teaches you things the hard way. It wasn't a huge outlay in the end.

I appreciate that there are some YT cowboys out there and often talk a lot of . I want to reiterate that the purpose of the video was not show anyone here how to suck eggs, it was to show you the engine I have and the mechanisms of how it operates. I like visuals as it helps me so was just trying to give everyone a visual, not to pay attention of what this guys was really talking about.

I appreciate your response, thank you.

Click to expand...

If I log into the IBM server as a customer would I see the same information as if I logged into it as an employee or technician ?
If you have typed in the model type & serial numbers it should have thrown up the operators instructions & parts list .
The technical manual comes up when an authorised B & S repair agent logs into the technicans portal .
If you used the mower's model number then all you will get is the instruction book and perhaps the parts list for the mower which would only show the engine as a single item and perhaps the service replacement parts like filters .
Rubbish in = rubbish out
The very first thing the teach in Systems Engineering

bertsmobile1 said:

If I log into the IBM server as a customer would I see the same information as if I logged into it as an employee or technician ?
If you have typed in the model type & serial numbers it should have thrown up the operators instructions & parts list .
The technical manual comes up when an authorised B & S repair agent logs into the technicans portal .
If you used the mower's model number then all you will get is the instruction book and perhaps the parts list for the mower which would only show the engine as a single item and perhaps the service replacement parts like filters .
Rubbish in = rubbish out
The very first thing the teach in Systems Engineering

Click to expand...

There is some info that you raised that I did not realise considering this is a very consumer grade machine i.e. Not overly complicated. I apologise, I was clearly ignorant to there being a technician manual for this engine and that members here would have access to see those. You live and learn. Thanks for explaining.

yannick said:

Hi Team,

I have a B&S 500e powered lawn mower. I have only had this thing a couple of years or there abouts, so not very old at all. I went to start it a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get it going. Been sat in the shed a few weeks prior and was working fine. Have noticed a few months back that it was getting harder and harder to start. Anyway, I've had it apart. Have cleaned the carburetor, although it was mint inside. I have checked the oil level. I checked the armature resistance and got a reading of over 6Kohms ( I read that these should be between 2.5 - 5Kohms. Not sure how accurate that is?). So I ordered a replacement which reads at 8.45Kohms, so I am assuming the readings on these are not necessarily reliable to go by? The gap recommended on the manual for the armature is between .006 - .014 in, so I went inbetween at .010. I also replaced the spark plug. Still, I get not start. I get backfires occasionally, but not even a hint that it wants to go. I am a bit stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

yannick said:

Hi Team,

I have a B&S 500e powered lawn mower. I have only had this thing a couple of years or there abouts, so not very old at all. I went to start it a couple of weeks ago and couldn't get it going. Been sat in the shed a few weeks prior and was working fine. Have noticed a few months back that it was getting harder and harder to start. Anyway, I've had it apart. Have cleaned the carburetor, although it was mint inside. I have checked the oil level. I checked the armature resistance and got a reading of over 6Kohms ( I read that these should be between 2.5 - 5Kohms. Not sure how accurate that is?). So I ordered a replacement which reads at 8.45Kohms, so I am assuming the readings on these are not necessarily reliable to go by? The gap recommended on the manual for the armature is between .006 - .014 in, so I went inbetween at .010. I also replaced the spark plug. Still, I get not start. I get backfires occasionally, but not even a hint that it wants to go. I am a bit stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

I seen a couple of comments in regard to the flywheel key that's likely a very good possibility , I had one recently a friend gave me he was fed up for hard starting and had a miss , I did the normal service even checked the flywheel key , but didn't pull the flywheel , put ever thing back together , he was here at the shop , I started it it took about 6 -7 primer button pushes , he said it still has that miss , I pulled apart again the flywheel key was very slightly sheared , normally they shear and turn 1/8 -1/4 turn and will back fire like crazy and kick back and pull cord out of you hand , I've changed many broken keys over the years , but first time a very slight shear off .

And some do have access the Briggs Power Portal (dealer support site). For me I never got around to learning how to convert the layman's model descriptions to actual model series.

As for the service manual there is at least three different ones that cover these engines but they actually cover a group of engines. One manual may not even cover all of the engines in the size range of the walk behind used engines.

Single cylinder OHV
DOV 700-750
And Professional series

And yes a partially shear flywheel key can cause some strange problems.

Last time it ran you Sheared the Flywheel Key. Timing is now off, so it backfires. You're Welcome.

Bert, Scrub, Star and Rivets and if I missed someone, I am sorry

Please don’t let a jerk like this get to you. I have written in a couple of times and fixed a couple of issues by your answer, and I thank you for that. I read this forum every chance I get and think it is great.

You only can answer by what information that is given to you.

Thank you for all you information

By the way I am 82 years of age and not the mechanic I used to be so I need your help. Keep up the good work

If it backfired more than likely you have spark.Did you clean the main jet when you had the carb apart. It could be clogged so no or little fuel is getting by. Hence the backfire.

John, just to let you know, the skin of most of the good techs on this site is tougher than a buffalo. We are used to being told where to put our brains by many DIYguys whose idea of troubleshooting is to find a video which looks like their problem. From there they try to act like they know what they are talking about and berate those who call them out. Normally we can pick them out very quickly, but once in awhile, if we are still on our first cup of caffeine, it takes a little longer. On behalf of the good techs on this site,THANK YOU for your kind words. Jack, just to let you know, the OP says the problem was resolved, bad valve clearance.

johnorlandi said:

Bert, Scrub, Star and Rivets and if I missed someone, I am sorry

Please don’t let a jerk like this get to you. I have written in a couple of times and fixed a couple of issues by your answer, and I thank you for that. I read this forum every chance I get and think it is great.

You only can answer by what information that is given to you.

Thank you for all you information

By the way I am 82 years of age and not the mechanic I used to be so I need your help. Keep up the good work

Click to expand...

Actually the OP did eventually come back with an apology of sorts
It is just a matter of making people understand.
A problem that gets far worse the younger a poster gets
More & more people are living in an echo chamber of their own thoughts & philosophy .
Web algorithms are to a large part to blame because they work out what you think then filter out anything that contravines your ideas.
Now this is good for internet companies because you will look at stuff you agree with all day long so they gets lots of $$$$$$$ from capturing your eyeballs .
Down side is you never see nor understand the other points of view so they all become "Fake News".
This divides the country and makes society progressively weaker to the point that I will happily pick up a fire arm & shoot any one who does not agree with me.
It is a pre-requsite for initating a war, dissaccoiate & divide the population so the only person they believe is you.
This tactic is used extensively by religions and has been picked up by political parties to the detriment of every representative democracy on the planet .
Even worse are the BS merchants who deliberately post lies in order to profit from clickthroughs.
There was a news story last night from DW ( Germany ) picking through the posts about the current Russian war .
Now the scary bit is around 40 % of what main stream media published was FAKE .
The story was possibly correct but the footage shown with it was not from the current war and had been pulled off the web all over the place , some were from Afghanistan, some from Syria as far back as the collapse of Yugoslavia , some were even formation flights from air shows .
The posts on residential platforms like Tic-Tok , Face Book & instragram were up to 90% recycled old footage .

And of course everything is easy and does not require any thought or understanding.
You just find what looks to be identical on FB or YT then you are an experts.
This applies to every occupation,,,,,,, except your own where your unique experience & knowledge are necessary so no one other than you can do it .

I make it a point to explain what I am doing & why I do it if a customer is the least bit interested .
Firstly it empowers them because they know why their mower is not working the way it should.
Secondly because they understand they are more comfortable using older gear .
Down side is some decide to do their own repairs based & what I have taught them.
Upside is they keep on using the old stuff that I can get parts for & most buy all their parts from me .

instructional starts at 3:00