temperature warning light inop on 924614A

[johnbell47]

With the key on, can you ground the sender wire, and the light comes on? If it does not, there as a power wire broken going to the light. If the light does work, the new sender is likely faulty.

with key on, grounding the sender wire does not bring the light on. the other side of the light does have 12 volts and works with a jumper wire to the sender. So. there is an open in the sender wire from the sender to the light. (evidently) this wirew also goes through a diode to the warning buzzer. They evidently buried the diode in the wiring harness. anybody know where so i can check it? I did verify that the new sender works with a light and heated it up with a heat gun, it tripped at about 230 degrees and showed continuity.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello J.,

The diode is likely placed inline under some black shrink take and it is blown/fractured internally from a shorted warning buzzer. Trace down the harness from the buzzer and the light, then bypass the buzzer and the diode one at a time to see if the light works when the sender is grounded.

 

[johnbell47]

Hello J.,

The diode is likely placed inline under some black shrink take and it is blown/fractured internally from a shorted warning buzzer. Trace down the harness from the buzzer and the light, then bypass the buzzer and the diode one at a time to see if the light works when the sender is grounded.

sound like a plan. The buzzer has been working. I checked the leads on it with the engine running and was showing a light on both sides, I was using a probe light, battery was dead on my meter, but I will check it in the next few days, cold in the shop right now. thank you ! if I the value of the diodes I could just run a new wirre with a diode in it over to the buzzer to see what happened, If the diode blew I would know the buzzer has gone to ground, I really don't think it has due to it worked recently. I can check it in other ways I guess, but diodes are cheep.