Starter question

[Hammermechanicman]

do you get any voltage change at the wire when you turn the key to start?
If so you have a high resistance connection somewhere. Probably switch contacts.
If no voltage at the trigger wire then try to find a point you can test at somewhere near the middle of the circuit and test for voltage when you turn the key. This will let you half split the circuit and with one test isolate problem to half the circuit.
If you get no voltage then priblem between keyswitch and the test point. If you get voltage then problem between that point and solenoid.
Wire don't fail in the middle without something physically damaging them. Problem is always at the ends of wires or what they are hooked to.

 

[Rivets]

Don’t forget to check voltage drop at the battery when you turn the key to the start position. If the voltage drops below 9V you may not have enough current to engage and hold the solenoid properly. This would indicate a weak or bad cell in the battery, causing your problems.

 

[PTmowerMech]

do you get any voltage change at the wire when you turn the key to start?
If so you have a high resistance connection somewhere. Probably switch contacts.
If no voltage at the trigger wire then try to find a point you can test at somewhere near the middle of the circuit and test for voltage when you turn the key. This will let you half split the circuit and with one test isolate problem to half the circuit.
If you get no voltage then priblem between keyswitch and the test point. If you get voltage then problem between that point and solenoid.
Wire don't fail in the middle without something physically damaging them. Problem is always at the ends of wires or what they are hooked to.

I'm got the starter to engage the flywheel now. Clutch/brake safety switch contacts weren't contacting with the brake locked. Had to push it another 1/8th inch to make connection. Gonna charge the battery and look for a wiring diagram of this. The cables on this are from a vehicle. While the battery is a mower batter. Nothing but positive cable connected to + side of the battery.
There's a circuit board or two under the dash. "WHOOPYYYY". Something else I don't know a thing about.
Both fuses test good. Engine turns over. So I think the next step is getting a charging wire, and fixing the spliced wires going to the voltage regulator.


I'd better put some coffee on.

 

[StarTech]

That circuit board has a starter relay on it.

Would you accept the wiring diagram PDF of the GT235. It 9 pages. I can email you but you would to PM me your email address.

 

[PTmowerMech]

 

[Hammermechanicman]

With the engine running you should have about 13.5 volts on the red wire with engine at speed. Red wire goes to battery but JD may over complicate it because they can.

 

[PTmowerMech]

With the engine running you should have about 13.5 volts on the red wire with engine at speed. Red wire goes to battery but JD may over complicate it because they can.

I was getting the exact amount the battery had in it.
The most was 12.61. It started out at 12.58. Rose to 12.61.
A few minutes later, after a few starts and checking some other stuff, it was down to about 12.5.

Plenty of AC. DC matched the battery.

 

[ILENGINE]

Did you make sure the regulator was grounded to the engine before testing. If the regulator isn't grounded it won't work.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Upon closer inspection or you picture the center tab of the regulator does not appear to be going into the connector. Is it? And like ilengine said make sure the regulator case is grounded.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Did you make sure the regulator was grounded to the engine before testing. If the regulator isn't grounded it won't work.

No, it wasn't.

Funny thing about this. The two bolt holes on the side of the engine, match the holes on the regulator. But, the ONLY way to get it to fit flush on the engine, is the turn the fins towards the ending, and put spacers between the regulators tabs and the engine. If the fins are turned outwards, the connector itself keeps it from sitting flush.

The regulator I looked up for this engine, only has one hole. I can see a nut factory welded to the back of the plate a regulator mounts to. But I didn't check to see if there were two.