Predator coil on Briggs?
- Thread starter Nessmuck
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Worked
or worked properly
What they don't come back and admit is when they were mowing for 2 hours on a 80 deg day the engine siezed because the timing was out
I have seen so may You tube videos showing some thing being done that I know will destroy the engine over time it is not funny.
I used to add comments to let the technically ignorant understand it was not the miracle $ 2 fix the poster presented it as.
However all I got was flamed & abused so I don't bother any more.
However on a mower forum it is different because most of the people here want a proper fix to ensure their mower will work properly for may years.
The one that really killed me was a clown who showed how to slow down a racing engine by stuffing more foam in the filter to restrict the air flow .
And that idiot had near 100 deciples singing his praises because the mower shop was going to charge them several hundred dollars to split the engine & replace the faulty governor but their "GURU" showed them how to do it for under $ 1 .
FWIW.
Atom Industries invented the Hall effect trigger for small engines in 1959 they marketed it in 1962 with 9 different timed chips so the owner could get the right one for their engine
These were all colour coded and there was a different one for B & S engines , Tecumseh Engines & Honda engines plus another for racing B & S engines used in go carts at the time .
Originally they were marketed as "points eliminators "
Husqvarna , Stihl , OMG & Victa all bought the technology & fitted them as standard .
All other engine makers persisted with points for 30 more years till the patient expired because they would not pay Atom the 10¢ royalties for using the IP or $ 1.50 for the units in bulk
Around 2000 engine makers started to embed the chip into the coil itself so a $ 5 coil & $ 10 trigger module became a $ 30 magneto module and they saved about 1 minute of assembly time + 1 hole & 1 screw , which over 10,000,000 engines is a tidy sum .
So before any one say with confidence that they coils are interchangable they engine timing would need to be verified with a strobe & tacho
Unless that was done then you are crossing an interstate in the middle of the night wearing a blindfold
or worked properly
What they don't come back and admit is when they were mowing for 2 hours on a 80 deg day the engine siezed because the timing was out
I have seen so may You tube videos showing some thing being done that I know will destroy the engine over time it is not funny.
I used to add comments to let the technically ignorant understand it was not the miracle $ 2 fix the poster presented it as.
However all I got was flamed & abused so I don't bother any more.
However on a mower forum it is different because most of the people here want a proper fix to ensure their mower will work properly for may years.
The one that really killed me was a clown who showed how to slow down a racing engine by stuffing more foam in the filter to restrict the air flow .
And that idiot had near 100 deciples singing his praises because the mower shop was going to charge them several hundred dollars to split the engine & replace the faulty governor but their "GURU" showed them how to do it for under $ 1 .
FWIW.
Atom Industries invented the Hall effect trigger for small engines in 1959 they marketed it in 1962 with 9 different timed chips so the owner could get the right one for their engine
These were all colour coded and there was a different one for B & S engines , Tecumseh Engines & Honda engines plus another for racing B & S engines used in go carts at the time .
Originally they were marketed as "points eliminators "
Husqvarna , Stihl , OMG & Victa all bought the technology & fitted them as standard .
All other engine makers persisted with points for 30 more years till the patient expired because they would not pay Atom the 10¢ royalties for using the IP or $ 1.50 for the units in bulk
Around 2000 engine makers started to embed the chip into the coil itself so a $ 5 coil & $ 10 trigger module became a $ 30 magneto module and they saved about 1 minute of assembly time + 1 hole & 1 screw , which over 10,000,000 engines is a tidy sum .
So before any one say with confidence that they coils are interchangable they engine timing would need to be verified with a strobe & tacho
Unless that was done then you are crossing an interstate in the middle of the night wearing a blindfold
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2017
- Threads
- 250
- Messages
- 6,441
it can cause the engine to run leaner and overheat, more likely if not done properly.
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2017
- Threads
- 250
- Messages
- 6,441
now we could get identification of the 5HP Briggs to get this guy the proper coil, so he doesn't have to buy a coil and timing wheel. But apparently that's locked away in Ft. Knox...
As Scrub said, if the engine timing is off causing a lean operating condition, it will definitely overheat and seize up. Ask anyone who has had an engine on their racing tractor or go-cart explode when they had the timing to far off under high RPMs. They start the engine with either, keep feathering the throttle until the race starts, make one or two laps, then Ka-Boom, oil flying all over the place.
The timing will be exactly the same as long as you mount the coil on the original mounting stand's. The only was you can change the timing is if you mount the coil in a different position which would be a lot of reengineering.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Rusty, with all due respects, that is total rubbish and I really think you do not comprehend how these magnetos work or how the ignition is timed .
For what you are saaying to be true then every coil would have to be mounted in exactly tha same position & every magnet would have to be in the same position relative to the piston and all fo the magnets would have to be the same strength and all of the coils would have to have the same number of turns of the same size wire on the primaries and all of the trigger circuits would have to be identical.
And I know for a fact they are not
While the difference between some B & S coils is nothing more than the length of the HT lead, or the type of plug cap, a lot of B & S coils will not work on a different B & S engine.
I know this for a fact as I have tried interchanging them when I was working out which ones I needed to keep as stock
And I did use a timing light on the ones that would actually run on an engine they were not listed for .
So for push mowers I keep 3 B & S coils which I know can cover the entire range of engines even if the HT lead is a bit long on some .
The caveat here is I have never bothered to try Preditor coils on anything because I don't keep them and I still have the 5 Honda coils that came with the business 9 years ago because you rarely ever need to replace them ( never ) .
While I do know what it is like to fall on hard times , I was born into a dirt poor family & been bankrupt twice but if you really can not afford a proper B & S coil , or the cheaper aftermarket ones sold buy the aftermarket parts suppliers then you really must be doing it tough in which case it would be worthwhile picking up a sythe from a oppertunity shop to sane the cost of petrol .
For what you are saaying to be true then every coil would have to be mounted in exactly tha same position & every magnet would have to be in the same position relative to the piston and all fo the magnets would have to be the same strength and all of the coils would have to have the same number of turns of the same size wire on the primaries and all of the trigger circuits would have to be identical.
And I know for a fact they are not
While the difference between some B & S coils is nothing more than the length of the HT lead, or the type of plug cap, a lot of B & S coils will not work on a different B & S engine.
I know this for a fact as I have tried interchanging them when I was working out which ones I needed to keep as stock
And I did use a timing light on the ones that would actually run on an engine they were not listed for .
So for push mowers I keep 3 B & S coils which I know can cover the entire range of engines even if the HT lead is a bit long on some .
The caveat here is I have never bothered to try Preditor coils on anything because I don't keep them and I still have the 5 Honda coils that came with the business 9 years ago because you rarely ever need to replace them ( never ) .
While I do know what it is like to fall on hard times , I was born into a dirt poor family & been bankrupt twice but if you really can not afford a proper B & S coil , or the cheaper aftermarket ones sold buy the aftermarket parts suppliers then you really must be doing it tough in which case it would be worthwhile picking up a sythe from a oppertunity shop to sane the cost of petrol .
Once again I agree with Bert. Couple of things to add. Curvature of the coil legs is very important, as this will determine strength of the flux lines, duration of buildup and timing. Second, not all coils use the same type of triggering systems, which also control timing. To anyone who really believes it will work, go ahead and try it, but their is NO tech or dealer who receives money for their services that will waste their time on this myth.
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2020
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 10,273
This why we need the engine info in the first place to see it is one of the common Magnetrons or a points coil. Plus as said coil themselves have changed over the years along flywheel diameters.
If it is just where a mouse had chewed through HT lead then I replace the lead it the coil's core is not too rusty. I even had change leads out due being too short. But even this depends the coil's construction.
If it is just where a mouse had chewed through HT lead then I replace the lead it the coil's core is not too rusty. I even had change leads out due being too short. But even this depends the coil's construction.