Oil filter check for Kawa FR691V

[bertsmobile1]

Scott,

You can put whatever oil you like in your Tractor ( sorry Harley )
It is your bike so you are entitled to do with it what your like.
And no I do not own, never have owned nor have any desire to own one.
I have a fleet of motorcycles from 1912 through to 1972 that all work perfectly and many of which have been fitted with modified clutches to run better in the oily primary drive case.

What I do object to and requires correction is that mower specific oil is not required in mowers.
To an extent this is true if you are happy to waste money by using oil which exceeds the makers recommendation in all properties.
Doing so is simply spending more than you need to & if you are happy to do so then again it is your mower & you are entitled to put whatever oil in your mower that you wish.

However a person reading it see a message that translates into "Car oils are fine for mowers" and in general they are not .
Some will be & some won't.
People with no knowledge of proper oil evaluation , let alone oil chemistry are easily confused and of course we all think in conspiracy mode ( they are all the same , just different colours & prices )
I was taught about oils both at college & university , gaining just enough knowledge to know to leave it to the experts and to be able to tell BS endorsement , testimonials & advertising claims from properly done scientific testing & evaluations.

MOWER OILS ARE SPECIFICALLY BLENDED FOR USE IN AIR COOLED MOWER ENGINES AND HAVE EVERYTHING THAT YOUR ENGINE NEEDS FUNCTION PROPERLY AND NOTHING IT DOES NOT NEED , SO IS THE BEST OIL TO PUT IN THERE .

Other oils will also work.
A mix of white spirit & kerrosene will work in your gas tank, but petrol works better .

As for synthetic or semi-synthetic oils most are way more expensive than generic mower oils and way above the specifications required.
As for the popular tag, dino oil a stupid description as all but the most expensive supposedly synthetic oils are plain oils mineral oil, made from plant remains, split into all the easy to separate parts then recombined so stuff not needed can be sold to some one else.
True synthetic oils are synthised from gas, coal seam gas or oil gas usually then chemically converted into oil, ie made from some thing that was not oil in the first place.
They came into being as a method of using waste by-products from mining or refining.
Most of the stuff we use in bulk is made the same way.
Commercial flour is all "synthetic" because the wheat/ corn/ maize is ground down really find separated into it parts on a molecular level the combined in the exact ratios needed for high speed commercial factory baking.

So I can run my mower on $ 10/ qt mower oil or $ 75/ qt fully synthetic oil
It will run just the same most of the time, however if I lay it up over extended winter periods, the synthetic might not offer the same corrosion protection & water isolation that the cheaper mower oil does.
Weather this is a problem for me will depend upon the micro climate where my mower is kept & how long it sits there & weather the oil was fresh or stale.
If mower oil is used it will protect the engine regardless of the local enviroment, the same MAY not be true for auto oils.

So while I can agree with you that you don't need to use mower oil in your mower, the fact remain that mower oil is the best oil for your mower.

 

[Fish]

The Fram would more than likely work just fine....

 

[iclick]

As for synthetic or semi-synthetic oils most are way more expensive than generic mower oils and way above the specifications required.

Maybe this is the case in Australia, but in the USA the Kawi oil is quite a bit higher than a mainstream synthetic. I don't know where to get Kawi oil locally, and I haven't seen it at Lowe's or Home Depot, but Amazon sells it for ~$10/qt. Here you can buy Mobil1 for ~$25 for a 5-qt. jug at Walmart, and rebates are available semi-annually that cut the price almost in half. I've been stockpiling M1 5w30 for my car and truck now for several years but need to buy more for the mower, as it takes a different viscosity. I'll probably run 15w50 in it, but I've got a few months to decide.

So while I can agree with you that you don't need to use mower oil in your mower, the fact remain that mower oil is the best oil for your mower.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you, as I've never seen any evidence that a product-branded oil (i.e., Harley, Kawasaki, Toyota, etc.) is any better than an equivalent mainstream product like Mobil1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. If there is any evidence that Kawi oil has properties that work better in a mower engine I'd like to see it. I'm confused about your position on this, as you said that mainstream synthetics are "way above the specification required," but later say that "mower oil is best for your mower." Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you.

 

[7394]

I would only offer for the buyer to look at the oil date of being bottled. Most times on the back of the jug, sometimes on the bottom.

I look for the freshest oil. & anything older than 5 years is avoided. Because the additives are about shot even in sealed jugs.

 

[iclick]

I would only offer for the buyer to look at the oil date of being bottled. Most times on the back of the jug, sometimes on the bottom. I look for the freshest oil. & anything older than 5 years is avoided. Because the additives are about shot even in sealed jugs.

Dates on Mobil1 quarts and jugs are stenciled on the back label, often hard to read and coded. The mfr. claims that oil is good for five years in a sealed container. One good reason to shop oil at Walmart is that they turn over inventory rapidly.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

I can tell everyone on here what oil not to use unless ya'll are in a pinch and just use for topping off.......

Dollar store oil for 2 bux a quart...... There are a few reviews on the internet and Bob The Oil Guy has a article about also, I THINK........

1 other thing ......... Oreilly's Auto parts store brand name oil IS Shell Rotella or Valvoline...... I forgot which ...........

That's what I use in my Jeep........ Saving a buck per quart or a lil more helps out in the long run... I buy it by the gallon jugs......

Plus Tard Mes Amies ~!~!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Maybe this is the case in Australia, but in the USA the Kawi oil is quite a bit higher than a mainstream synthetic. I don't know where to get Kawi oil locally, and I haven't seen it at Lowe's or Home Depot, but Amazon sells it for ~$10/qt. Here you can buy Mobil1 for ~$25 for a 5-qt. jug at Walmart, and rebates are available semi-annually that cut the price almost in half. I've been stockpiling M1 5w30 for my car and truck now for several years but need to buy more for the mower, as it takes a different viscosity. I'll probably run 15w50 in it, but I've got a few months to decide.



I'll have to respectfully disagree with you, as I've never seen any evidence that a product-branded oil (i.e., Harley, Kawasaki, Toyota, etc.) is any better than an equivalent mainstream product like Mobil1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. If there is any evidence that Kawi oil has properties that work better in a mower engine I'd like to see it. I'm confused about your position on this, as you said that mainstream synthetics are "way above the specification required," but later say that "mower oil is best for your mower." Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you.

Firstly, mower oil is mower oil, not oil sold in branded bottles with the mower company's name on them.
I get my SAE 30 pink dyed mower oil from Western oil, the only company that blends it in Australia.
It is mower oil, not mower branded oil.
I hope this makes things clearer.
Stens , Rotary , Prime Line & Oregon all sell mower oil for a lot less than a bottle with Briggs or Kohler on the label.
Penziol, Castrol, BP all blend mower oil & sell it under their own name & I am sure there are more

As far as oil Specifications goes a higher spec is not necessarily better because it is full of stuff that your engine can neither use nor needs
Think of it like petrol.
You can put low grade 85 octane petrol for your old side banger & it will run fine
You can put 91 octane E10 in your mower & it will run exactly the same. The only difference will be the annual fuel cost
You can put 100 octane avgas in your mower and it will still run the same as it did on the 85 but you will just be paying more for the energy that the mower can not use

So the highest spec fuel is the avgas but the best fuel is the 85.
Modern high performance engines with running clearences between moving parts 1/3 ( or less ) than your mower engine need modern synthetic oils.
Old low technology mower engines do not need the same quality oil and in some cases it is actually worse for them.
I have a 1926 600 cc long stroke OHV engine that uses strait 50 oil summer & strait 40 in winter.
It will not start if you put 20W 50 oil in there because the ring gaps & side clearances are so big the 20W 50, which is a much higher specification oil can not maintain a pressure seal in a cold engine.
It also leaks out past all the scrolls & oil slingers
So the low grade strait 40 is the BEST oil for that engine.

Testing oils is very expensive and very little is done for the purpose of comparing one brand to another.
Even worse, none of the standard oil tests actually mimicks oil in your engine.
The only way to do this is to run identical engines, side by side then x-ray the oil to work out how much metal is being worn off & finally strip the engine & measure everything.
You won't see this done for mower engines, it is just too expensive for any one other than the engine makers.
Despite what people not involved in manfacturing think, there is not much profit in making mower engines which is why so many makers like Honda & Onan have pulled out and companies like Toro are now fitting imported engines into their domestic ( cheap ) mowers.

 

[(Account Closed)]

I wish you would READ my posts instead of blowing over them..

First off, I DON'T OWN a Harley(Tractor as you like to insult Harley owners-US made I guess), never posted I did. Look to the LEFT, that blue two wheeler isn't a Harley, too many cylinders..

If your that familiar with bikes, you would know there is NO street Harley that'll run 14,000 RPM's. Just looking at my picture I posted (of my "fancy oil filter"), it's VERY obvious the bikes NOT a HARLEY. I've owned two Harleys in the past, Kawasaki's, mostly Yamaha's, a Suzuki, etc.

So even thou say, Pennzoil sells a 30 wt oil with the same spec's (lettering of additives) is NOT good?? The Brigg's oil (More expensive BTW), same spec's, is much better??? I disagree with that, but that's your opinion...

So using Synthetic oil is over protection (if I read your post correctly)? Yes, it costs more, but some folks would like to have that EXTRA PROTECTION, I being one of them. Spending a couple extra $ is worth it to me for that protection. Especially the more expensive the machine..

Re my "fancy oil filter" (it's a K&P). You didn't address (or ignored) my question. More oil flow, known oil filtration rates(spec's on the site should you decide to click on it), etc. or the additional cooling to the oil from the filter alone. I would think you'd want that on an air cooled only engine (and often with a separate oil cooler-stock). Guess you wouldn't..

Believe what you wish, that's your business, as is mine.

*As a side note, my Briggs, 7HP Intek, OHV (self propelled) is about 13 years old now. Down here, the grass is cut TWICE a week during the summer, once about every week and half in the winter, 365 days.. I think I've ran genuine Briggs oil, maybe 2-3 times in that 13 years. RPM's are set at 3,600 @ WOT.
A leak down test shows the internal health of the machine at approx. 1-2% leakage (tops). There's no oil filter and the oil is changed regularly. If the oil I'm using is NOT good enough, how is it the engine is still so tight??? ... No oil burning, no external leakage. Didn't x-ray the oil (didn't know you could do that). I know you can send a sample of your oil out for analysis to check for wear/metal, etc.. IE, "Proof is in the pudding".


*This is the internet... If you believe EVERYTHING you read on-line, that IMO, is NOT good and eventually, you'll get burned.. Lots of good information, some not so much...

 

[Darryl G]

Is it that hard to understand that oil that's formulated for a mower engine is the best oil to use in a mower engine? Really guys. :laughing:

 

[iclick]

Is it that hard to understand that oil that's formulated for a mower engine is the best oil to use in a mower engine? Really guys. :laughing:

I see no evidence to support this but would welcome any offered. IMO it's just as credible to say that mower makers repackage a standard oil with their label and charge 2x as much because some will embrace the notion that it is somehow better.