murray riding mower

[That Guy88]

OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take that 12 volt source from the previous test, leaving the negative as attached, and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn. If it doesn't; mahe sure the solenoid is groI'llunded properly. Let me know the result.

these tests you are saying have been completed. the solenoid from the 2nd post did not turn the start failed connection. I have the new solenoid but the problem now is I don't even hear the solenoid click. could that be a ground issue. just let me know and thanks for the support and answers I greatly appreciate them.

 

[BGS Mex]

these tests you are saying have been completed. the solenoid from the 2nd post did not turn the start failed connection. I have the new solenoid but the problem now is I don't even hear the solenoid click. could that be a ground issue. just let me know and thanks for the support and answers I greatly appreciate them.

Does your "new" starter solenoid look like this? The two small terminals on these are interchangeable. One is "Black" to ground, and the other takes it's 12 volts from the Key switch when it is turned to "Start". It doesn't matter as long as both are connected.Some other types take the ground from the chassis and the base of the solenoid and only have one small connector that is fed 12V from the ignition switch when it is turned to "start".
Are you telling me that when you turn the ignition switch to start that the solenoid doesn't "Click" with the new solenoid but did with the original one??? I still don't have a clear pictire of what works and what doesn't. These tests must be done one at a time and the results documented.

 

[That Guy88]

Does your "new" starter solenoid look like this? The two small terminals on these are interchangeable. One is "Black" to ground, and the other takes it's 12 volts from the Key switch when it is turned to "Start". It doesn't matter as long as both are connected.Some other types take the ground from the chassis and the base of the solenoid and only have one small connector that is fed 12V from the ignition switch when it is turned to "start".
Are you telling me that when you turn the ignition switch to start that the solenoid doesn't "Click" with the new solenoid but did with the original one??? I still don't have a clear pictire of what works and what doesn't. These tests must be done one at a time and the results documented.

no but mine grounded on the bolt that connects the solenoid back to the frame. should I reconsidered the one you are suggesting. when I go to start the lawn mower there is no click from the solenoid at all. could it possibly be the engine that is causing the problem. Just unsure at this point.

 

[BGS Mex]

no but mine grounded on the bolt that connects the solenoid back to the frame. should I reconsidered the one you are suggesting. when I go to start the lawn mower there is no click from the solenoid at all. could it possibly be the engine that is causing the problem. Just unsure at this point.

OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take a 12 volt source (wire), leaving the negative as attached (to the frame), and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn. If it doesn't; make sure the solenoid is grounded properly. Are you absolutly positive that the large Red (+) on the solenoid (from the battery) has 12 V? Let me know the results. Can you send a picture of the infamous Loose Black wire?

 

[StarTech]

Hmmm, Ever thought about downloading the schematic? I could post it but I won't.

And that dang black lead from the stator is the AC output for lighting which this mower does not have so of course it is not connected. Someone with a poppy seed brain should been able figured that out by now but that might over tax it.

Oh well back to the dark side [just data collecting] and making parts while watching all the stupid relies to various posts. Just getting sore sides from laughing so much. Most here are just so called mechanics or just part replacers. And they are too scared to actually look up the equipment before replying. This is why I quit helping this forum. I am not going hold their hands and do the work for them without getting paid for it.

 

[That Guy88]

OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take a 12 volt source (wire), leaving the negative as attached (to the frame), and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn. If it doesn't; make sure the solenoid is grounded properly. Are you absolutly positive that the large Red (+) on the solenoid (from the battery) has 12 V? Let me know the results. Can you send a picture of the infamous Loose Black wire?

loose black wire completely removed from that harness now only connected the stator back to the chassis wire harness. but still nothing coming on that solenoid. only conclusion now is to grind away paint to make a bare area on the frame for grounding more proficient.

 

[That Guy88]

Hmmm, Ever thought about downloading the schematic? I could post it but I won't.

And that dang black lead from the stator is the AC output for lighting which this mower does not have so of course it is not connected. Someone with a poppy seed brain should been able figured that out by now but that might over tax it.

Oh well back to the dark side [just data collecting] and making parts while watching all the stupid relies to various posts. Just getting sore sides from laughing so much. Most here are just so called mechanics or just part replacers. And they are too scared to actually look up the equipment before replying. This is why I quit helping this forum. I am not going hold their hands and do the work for them without getting paid for it.

I removed that wire completely from the harness and if I need lights I can wire them directly to were they need to be out all the mess of a stupid wire I don't need period. thanks for the comment

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Hmmm, Ever thought about downloading the schematic? I could post it but I won't.

And that dang black lead from the stator is the AC output for lighting which this mower does not have so of course it is not connected. Someone with a poppy seed brain should been able figured that out by now but that might over tax it.

Oh well back to the dark side [just data collecting] and making parts while watching all the stupid relies to various posts. Just getting sore sides from laughing so much. Most here are just so called mechanics or just part replacers. And they are too scared to actually look up the equipment before replying. This is why I quit helping this forum. I am not going hold their hands and do the work for them without getting paid for it.

Was just thinking about you this week Star Tech. If a person has skills, knowledge, experience, and a positive attitude, it really makes a great deal of difference. Let’s just say the phrase, “attitude is everything” isn’t just a saying.

 

[MarineBob]

I bought a used Murray at a yard sale years ago, I think its from 2005 or there abouts and I certainly do not baby it. Anyway, I didn't see this thought with a quick read but it caught me a couple times Check the safety switches. My mower got one on the seat, one on the brake/clutch, and I do not recall if there is a third on the blade engage lever. And then there is another connection for I guess what is a non-run on switch on the carb that I am not sure what exactly it does.

 

[Savage3]

Please post engine model number and code. We can look at schematic and walk you through appropriate testing procedures.

Put your multimeter on continuity, looks like a little speaker symbol. Touch probes together and listen for meter to make beeping sound.

Next, put red probe on metal surface of solenoid and black probe on negative (black) terminal of battery. Let us know if the meter beeps. This will let you know if you have proper ground.

Next, change volt meter to voltage VDC, same as you used to obtain battery voltage of 12.6 you posted earlier.

Disconnect wire from spade on solenoid, place red probe in female end of wire. Place black probe on battery ground. Turn key to start, ensure all safety mechanisms are met. Ie .....parking brake on, seat down, pto off etc.

Provide voltage reading sir.