murray riding mower

BGS Mex said:
So, it's the smaller connector that comes from the Chassis Harness? Does this black have a large "lump" just before it enters the connector on the engine side? If it does that is a Diode. Do you have a pic?
Click to expand...
have no picture. at the beginning of the wire it has a two wire connector that connects back to the chassis harness then too the engine
 
sgkent said:
doesn't crank is about a helpful as doesn't work. Do you know how to troubleshoot do a basic testing of a battery charging and starting system? Own a VOM? The battery could be dead. When was the last time it ran?
Click to expand...
battery is good tested that out already it was 12.66 volts
 
That Guy88 said:
battery is good tested that out already it was 12.66 volts
Click to expand...
if that is while cranking it is excellent or indicates resistance between it and the starter, ground etc.. If that is just sitting it really means little. It can fall to 8V or 9V when cranking. The test has to be when cranking to see how well the battery holds the voltage.
 
sgkent said:
if that is while cranking it is excellent or indicates resistance between it and the starter, ground etc.. If that is just sitting it really means little. It can fall to 8V or 9V when cranking. The test has to be when cranking to see how well the battery holds the voltage.
Click to expand...
the problem is it won't even begin to start
 
Does "Not Cranking" Mean the engine doesn't turn over with the Key turned to the "Start" position? Have you tried shorting across the two (large) solenoid terminals? What voltage is at the "small" solenoid terminal when you turn the key to the "start" position?
 
BGS Mex said:
Does "Not Cranking" Mean the engine doesn't turn over with the Key turned to the "Start" position? Have you tried shorting across the two (large) solenoid terminals? What voltage is at the "small" solenoid terminal when you turn the key to the "start" position?
Click to expand...
I tried that with the original sylenoid and the 2nd post did not complete the circuit so I had to get another sylenoid to replace that one.
 
That Guy88 said:
I tried that with the original sylenoid and the 2nd post did not complete the circuit so I had to get another sylenoid to replace that one.
Click to expand...
If you "Short Across" both terminals 12 volts goes directly to the starter. Have you done this? does the starter turn the engine over??? I haven't seen anywhere whether the starter actually works or not. If you put 12 volts directly to the positive post on the starter, and the negative from the battery to the frame; as above this will tell you if the starter actually works. Throwing parts at it will only cost money and you might get lucky.
 
BGS Mex said:
If you "Short Across" both terminals 12 volts goes directly to the starter. Have you done this? does the starter turn the engine over??? I haven't seen anywhere whether the starter actually works or not. If you put 12 volts directly to the positive post on the starter, and the negative from the battery to the frame; as above this will tell you if the starter actually works. Throwing parts at it will only cost money and you might get lucky.
Click to expand...
I tried that seeing what would happen and it worked. so after doing a continuity test on the sylenoid it did not ping
 
That Guy88 said:
I tried that seeing what would happen and it worked. so after doing a continuity test on the sylenoid it did not ping
Click to expand...
OK; so now we know that the starter will turn the motor. The Next test is for the solenoid. Take that 12 volt source from the previous test, leaving the negative as attached, and touch it to the "Small" positive terminal on the solenoid; you should hear the "click" and the starter should turn. If it doesn't; mahe sure the solenoid is grounded properly. Let me know the result.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top