Fuel Shut Off

[Born2Mow]

Then you never work on a ZTR. Many of them have the fuel line coming out top of tanks. I even work on a few JDs that the electric fuel pump was in the fuel tank. I even a couple riders with the fuel line coming out of the top of tank.

The fuel MAY exit the tank at the top, but in order to deliver fuel the "pickup" MUST be near the bottom of the tank.

Fuel can flow once the filled fuel line is below the fuel level ie it becomes a siphon hose.

But the "pickup" point for any syphon MUST be submerged in the liquid.

You're letting the "delivery" point confuse you about the "pickup" point.

 

[SARG]

I have them on 4 machines.

 

[OldDiyer]

Just putting this out there but wouldn't a metal shut off valve be a better option than those plastic ones? I am also thinking of adding one to my tractor. They are a bit more expensive but may last longer maybe.

 

[StarTech]

Depends on how they are constructed. Honda uses metal ones on some generators and carburetors. The rubber internal part does go bad leading to replacement of the fuel valve.

 

[Boomer49]

I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?

This question still looks open. The shutoff is designed to empty the carburetor, right. I would put the shutoff closer to it for a couple of reasons. 1st, most machines that have one built in, put it on the block up near the carburetor. That's what you're trying to empty. Why burn a bunch of gas in the fuel line to accomplish that? 2nd, If you need to service the engine you disconnect the line from the carburetor anyway. You aren't dumping any in the line. There are undoubtedly other reasons, but those 2 should be enough.

 

[doug9694]

I am looking to add one to my Timecutter. Which type do you all recommend and should I put it before or after the fuel filter?

I would put it after. Any debire in the tank could keep the valve from closing off completely. The filter should trap it!

 

[Scrubcadet10]

This question still looks open. The shutoff is designed to empty the carburetor, right. I would put the shutoff closer to it for a couple of reasons. 1st, most machines that have one built in, put it on the block up near the carburetor. That's what you're trying to empty. Why burn a bunch of gas in the fuel line to accomplish that? 2nd, If you need to service the engine you disconnect the line from the carburetor anyway. You aren't dumping any in the line. There are undoubtedly other reasons, but those 2 should be enough.

Ethanol will also deteriorate fuel line, and filter components when it sits, it's best to have as much of the line empty as possible.

 

[7394]

Agreed Scrub- Mine is right at top of my tank..

 

[TobyU]

Why do you want to add a fuel shut off? Is it leaking through the carburetor and flooding out the carburetor or dripping out or getting your tank low or getting fuel into your oil?
If so it needs a repair to fix that problem as the fuel shut off is just a Band-Aid for this but not really a good one.
If these things aren't happening then you don't need a fuel shut off for any reason.
If you're following the old school mentality of running it dry or you're trying to turn the fuel line off every time you shut it down to drain the bowl for some sort of benefit for starting or staying cleaner etc then that is also not good practice.
I know people have said it for years and some manuals even talk about running machines dry and stuff for what they call long-term storage but they never say how many weeks or months or years long-term storage is.

In climates where there is an off-season, running one dry or what people call dry, because it's never really dry, is better than doing absolutely nothing and just walking away from them after the last mow but it's certainly not the best thing you can do.

The best thing you can do is to make sure before you mow with it for the last time that you go by fresh fuel and add 1 oz of fuel stabilizer like sta-bil and your gas can for each gallon of fuel you're going to buy. This is a stronger long-term storage dose and then fill your tank on your mower either all the way full or with a substantial amount of fuel because you want that fresh stabilized fuel circulating and going everywhere and fully saturating and being the largest volume of the fuel in there after it mixes with the old fuel which may have not had stabilizer.
So after you mow for the last time this has done all that.
Then, you should pour the rest of that fresh gas in there and top off your tank because it's far better to store them with a full tank than an empty tank because of condensation and moisture but again the climates have a lot to do with this.

This is far better than trying to run one dry or leaving it mostly empty because when you run one dry you basically only get it half dry..
The ball has about a quarter to a half of its level of fuel and the fuel line ends up drying out completely as does the needle and seat which has rubber somewhere involved.

These rubber pieces will start to dry rot and harden more quickly than if you left them saturated and fresh stabilized fuel.
You also must remember that the small amount of fuel in the bowl will evaporate and leave something behind and with recent gas it's quite a bit of bad something.
It simply safer to let the bowl stay full.

It's never a bad idea to have a fuel shut off for the off season so just in case it does decide to leak or something you won't lose all your fuel and make a mess but it shouldn't be done as a replacement for storing them with fresh stabilized fuel and a full tank.

 

[shurguywutt]

If you're following the old school mentality of running it dry or you're trying to turn the fuel line off every time you shut it down to drain the bowl for some sort of benefit for starting or staying cleaner etc then that is also not good practice.
I know people have said it for years and some manuals even talk about running machines dry and stuff for what they call long-term storage but they never say how many weeks or months or years long-term storage is.

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