5W-30 or 10W-30

[Imowmylawn]

Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?

 

[Kodie's Lawn Service]

Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?

I would use 10w-30
:thumbsup::smile:

 

[Imowmylawn]

I would use 10w-30
:thumbsup::smile:

Would the 5W-30 kill it though? I mean my car is ok with it in 110 degrees so what's the difference? And my engine has full pressure lubrication too. Sorry for my ignorance. I know my car engines, not so much my small engines. If the oil is not too thin on a "cold" start for my car then why is it for y lawn mower? Could I try it and make sure I don't see the low oil pressure light on my dash when I start it? If I don't have that light does that mean its ok? Thanks

I'd like to add that I saw on a B&S site I saw that it said "*Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 °F (-30 to 40 °C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption." I know that's Briggs and not kholer but they can't be that different.

 

[mistermowerman]

Would the 5W-30 kill it though? I mean my car is ok with it in 110 degrees so what's the difference? And my engine has full pressure lubrication too. Sorry for my ignorance. I know my car engines, not so much my small engines. If the oil is not too thin on a "cold" start for my car then why is it for y lawn mower? Could I try it and make sure I don't see the low oil pressure light on my dash when I start it? If I don't have that light does that mean its ok? Thanks

I'd like to add that I saw on a B&S site I saw that it said "*Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 ｰF (-30 to 40 ｰC) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption." I know that's Briggs and not kholer but they can't be that different.

The difference is your car is water cooled and your mower is air cooled and runs a lot hotter than your car , in England you can fry an engine with the wrong oil let alone 110 degrees . Gary

 

[Kodie's Lawn Service]

The difference is your car is water cooled and your mower is air cooled and runs a lot hotter than your car , in England you can fry an engine with the wrong oil let alone 110 degrees . Gary

This why ^^^^ :thumbsup:

 

[Rivets]

Basic answer is, if your still under warranty, you better use 12W-30 or vyou will void the warranty. After it is out of warranty it's your call. At $3.00 a quart, why not continue to follow the manufactures recommendations. What ever you use the oil should be changed at regular intervals. Name on the bottle means nothing, you should be looking for an oil that has the API & SAE APPROVAL STAMP ON IT.

 

[Rocketman]

Most of my lawn equipment is only used in hot weather, and for the last few years I have used synthetic 10W / 40W, and have never had 1 single lubrications problem or engine failure. Synthetic oil pumps easier when cold, and because of the heat dissapating and lubricity quality's of synthetic lubricants, it actually allows an air cooled engine to run cooler. I would guess that a lawnmower engine in the hot summer heat would be running at 230 degrees if not higher. I think that is where the 10/40 viscosity comes into play. My 22 hp Briggs on my CC zero turn has almost 500 hours on the clock and still does not knock or use oil, and has all the power it had when it was new.
When engine temps are at their maximum, the thicker weight oil helps to take a lot of the mechanical shock loading out of the picture for the engine internals. Anyway that;'s my story and i'm sticking to it:wink:

 

[Imowmylawn]

Ok. Thanks everyone. I'll go get some 10w-30. I think straight 30w is in there now. That said, since I'm getting new oil anyways, what would you suggest? Should I get some Penzoil Platinum or more Quaker stake or even Mobil 1? (prefer the PP but GM required dexos for my car, hence the Quaker) Or should I spring for some deticated small engine oil? I really want to use synthetic for the high temps.

Also, should I put the Quaker in the push mower? It's a Honda engine. Or is that the same principal. And while on the subject of my push mower, it surges a ton the whole time it's running. Anyone have an idea as to why? It's 3 years old.

 

[Rocketman]

Ok. Thanks everyone. I'll go get some 10w-30. I think straight 30w is in there now. That said, since I'm getting new oil anyways, what would you suggest? Should I get some Penzoil Platinum or more Quaker stake (prefer the PP but GM required dexos for my car, hence the Quaker) Or should I spring for some deticated small engine oil? I really want to use synthetic for the high temps.

Valvoline is a good oil for the money if you don't want to use synthetic. I have never personally liked Quaker State or Penzoil, but that is just me. Keeping it changed at the right intervals is probably the most important thing for a small engine!

 

[Old Goat]

Valvoline is a good oil for the money if you don't want to use synthetic. I have never personally liked Quaker State or Penzoil, but that is just me. Keeping it changed at the right intervals is probably the most important thing for a small engine!

Back when I did many engine rebuilds for people, I would drop off an engine in the machine shops for rework and was always amazed that the old machinists could tell when an engine had been run with Quaker State or Penzoil, just by looking at it on the shop floor.

Prompted me to inquire what oil they used in their engines. Results were 100% Valvoline. Been there for 45 years and would NOT have anything else.

Charles