5W-30 or 10W-30

[possum]

Even if the Quaker State Penzoil stories were true years ago they are a moot point now days. Shell Oil Products United States owns and makes the Penzoil, Quaker State, Shell brands etc. Oil is made all over the world from oil extracted and refined all over the world and blended, packaged, shipped and sold in a hundred different ways from tuesday all over the world and all over North America. Its what is on the bottle from API and SAE like Rivets said. If you want to use Valvoline then use Valvoline. It is good oil like about all the other name brand oils. Just buy an oil that the engine maker calls for in the temps you use the engine in and that is all there is to it. Use synthetic if you wish. If you want to use your own judgement and use some oil other than the ones called for by the engine maker then do that. Lots of folks use oil other than the ones the engine maker calls for. They use their own judgement.

 

[reynoldston]

Its only 2 qts. of oil, use what is called for.

 

[djdicetn]

Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?

Imowmylawn,
As I understand it, synthetic oils weights have a very different calculation/application than regular motor oils. You may want to review/participate in the thred discussion below:

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/general-mower-discussion/15265-full-synthetic-oil-use.html

Personally, I am old-fashioned , have never used synthetic(or synthetic blend), use only Penzoil products for my vehicles and for my lawn mowers NEVER use multi-viscosity which can "lead to oil consumption"(this explicitly stated in my Kawasaki Commercial engine handbook for my Gravely). I have used "ONLY" SAE 30W Briggs & Stratton engine oil(inexpensive and available at WalMart) in all my "small engine" lawn equipment applications. BTW, my first lawn tractor, a 1993 True Value Lawn Chief with a 16hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard, was in service for 19 years before the deck fell apart and the engine still ran like brand new and did not use a single drop of oil between seasons. Need I say more?

 

[reynoldston]

Personally, I am old-fashioned. I started in the repair business in the early 60s. I have found lubrications has come a long ways since then.

 

[Imowmylawn]

I ended up getting some Mobil 1 10W-30. The mower seems to love it. Starts easier (don't get the *cr----ank*...on the first turnover anymore...i.e. it would start to crank, pause, then crank with lots of shaking with straight 30W) and seems to run smoother throughout the rev range, but particularly the top end. Little quieter and better fuel economy and feels like it has a bit more power. No valve noise either. We will see if it burns oil although the manual states synthetic is ok. I noticed I seemed to get heat from the engine sooner than before. But that could be just bad memory. Thanks everyone for your responses.

 

[djdicetn]

I ended up getting some Mobil 1 10W-30. The mower seems to love it. Starts easier (don't get the *cr----ank*...on the first turnover anymore...i.e. it would start to crank, pause, then crank with lots of shaking with straight 30W) and seems to run smoother throughout the rev range, but particularly the top end. Little quieter and better fuel economy and feels like it has a bit more power. No valve noise either. We will see if it burns oil although the manual states synthetic is ok. I noticed I seemed to get heat from the engine sooner than before. But that could be just bad memory. Thanks everyone for your responses.

Imowmylawn,
That "sounds" good, but to each his own. If you can "see a difference" as you stated that clearly indicates better performance and if your engine manual explicitly states that synthetic is OK(and I would assume it would mention a preferred "vicosity" for synthetics) I don't blame you for giving a try(a LOT of knowledgeable users on the forum tout the advantages of synthetics). But.......my Kawasaki FX691V Owner's Manual does NOT even mention the use of synthetic oil and as I stated earlier it specifically says "Using multi-grade oils(5W20, 10W30 and 10W40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." I have to believe what Kawasaki tells me in regard to their engines, therefore my reasoning for continuing the use of Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W oil. Unless further reasearch on the Kawasaki website or a reply from their Tech Support via a "Contact Us" correspondence changes that, most likely I will take my chances on their recommendations.

 

[Imowmylawn]

Imowmylawn,
That "sounds" good, but to each his own. If you can "see a difference" as you stated that clearly indicates better performance and if your engine manual explicitly states that synthetic is OK(and I would assume it would mention a preferred "vicosity" for synthetics) I don't blame you for giving a try(a LOT of knowledgeable users on the forum tout the advantages of synthetics). But.......my Kawasaki FX691V Owner's Manual does NOT even mention the use of synthetic oil and as I stated earlier it specifically says "Using multi-grade oils(5W20, 10W30 and 10W40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." I have to believe what Kawasaki tells me in regard to their engines, therefore my reasoning for continuing the use of Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W oil. Unless further reasearch on the Kawasaki website or a reply from their Tech Support via a "Contact Us" correspondence changes that, most likely I will take my chances on their recommendations.

I will check the oil more often for sure, but i'd also like to add that my manual (engine manual, not mower manual...) shows a chart for oil weights and it only lists two, from 32F down, it says 5W-30 and for 32F up, it says 10W-30...it doesn't mention straight 30W at all...and it doesnt say anything about a different weight for synthetic...i know Briggs recommends synthetic 5W-30 for all temps now...

 

[Rocketman]

One thing I have noticed about using synthetic is that I have to clean the area between the cylinders more often than with regular dino oil. Synthetic oil will leak easier and faster in an old engine. I think the valve covers leak more with synthetic. So about every month I use some kerosens in a squirt bottle and clean up the cylinders so grass doesn't stick in there and make her run hot! My Cadet has almost 500 hours so she leaks a little with synthetic!

 

[Kodie's Lawn Service]

I will check the oil more often for sure, but i'd also like to add that my manual (engine manual, not mower manual...) shows a chart for oil weights and it only lists two, from 32F down, it says 5W-30 and for 32F up, it says 10W-30...it doesn't mention straight 30W at all...and it doesnt say anything about a different weight for synthetic...i know Briggs recommends synthetic 5W-30 for all temps now...

I think you wrong I just bought a Briggs engine they still use straight 30 in Summer or 10w 30 depending on the engine and only 5w30 winter

 

[djdicetn]

One thing I have noticed about using synthetic is that I have to clean the area between the cylinders more often than with regular dino oil. Synthetic oil will leak easier and faster in an old engine. I think the valve covers leak more with synthetic. So about every month I use some kerosens in a squirt bottle and clean up the cylinders so grass doesn't stick in there and make her run hot! My Cadet has almost 500 hours so she leaks a little with synthetic!

Rocketman,
Doesn't just the fact that oil leakage is "expected" with synthetics discourage usage in an air-cooled 4-cycle engine???

IMowmylawn,
Most engine manuals have a chart like below which shows single/multi viscosity recommendations(this also has excerpt from Gravely Support at top):