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5W-30 or 10W-30
#1
I
Imowmylawn
I
Imowmylawn
Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?
#2
Kodie's Lawn Service
I would use 10w-30
:thumbsup::smile:
Kodie's Lawn Service
Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?
I would use 10w-30
:thumbsup::smile:
#3
I
Imowmylawn
Would the 5W-30 kill it though? I mean my car is ok with it in 110 degrees so what's the difference? And my engine has full pressure lubrication too. Sorry for my ignorance. I know my car engines, not so much my small engines. If the oil is not too thin on a "cold" start for my car then why is it for y lawn mower? Could I try it and make sure I don't see the low oil pressure light on my dash when I start it? If I don't have that light does that mean its ok? Thanks
I'd like to add that I saw on a B&S site I saw that it said "*Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 °F (-30 to 40 °C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption." I know that's Briggs and not kholer but they can't be that different.
I
Imowmylawn
I would use 10w-30
:thumbsup::smile:
Would the 5W-30 kill it though? I mean my car is ok with it in 110 degrees so what's the difference? And my engine has full pressure lubrication too. Sorry for my ignorance. I know my car engines, not so much my small engines. If the oil is not too thin on a "cold" start for my car then why is it for y lawn mower? Could I try it and make sure I don't see the low oil pressure light on my dash when I start it? If I don't have that light does that mean its ok? Thanks
I'd like to add that I saw on a B&S site I saw that it said "*Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 °F (-30 to 40 °C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption." I know that's Briggs and not kholer but they can't be that different.
#4
mistermowerman
The difference is your car is water cooled and your mower is air cooled and runs a lot hotter than your car , in England you can fry an engine with the wrong oil let alone 110 degrees . Gary
mistermowerman
Would the 5W-30 kill it though? I mean my car is ok with it in 110 degrees so what's the difference? And my engine has full pressure lubrication too. Sorry for my ignorance. I know my car engines, not so much my small engines. If the oil is not too thin on a "cold" start for my car then why is it for y lawn mower? Could I try it and make sure I don't see the low oil pressure light on my dash when I start it? If I don't have that light does that mean its ok? Thanks
I'd like to add that I saw on a B&S site I saw that it said "*Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120 ｰF (-30 to 40 ｰC) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption." I know that's Briggs and not kholer but they can't be that different.
The difference is your car is water cooled and your mower is air cooled and runs a lot hotter than your car , in England you can fry an engine with the wrong oil let alone 110 degrees . Gary
#5
Kodie's Lawn Service
This why ^^^^ :thumbsup:
Kodie's Lawn Service
The difference is your car is water cooled and your mower is air cooled and runs a lot hotter than your car , in England you can fry an engine with the wrong oil let alone 110 degrees . Gary
This why ^^^^ :thumbsup:
#6
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Basic answer is, if your still under warranty, you better use 12W-30 or vyou will void the warranty. After it is out of warranty it's your call. At $3.00 a quart, why not continue to follow the manufactures recommendations. What ever you use the oil should be changed at regular intervals. Name on the bottle means nothing, you should be looking for an oil that has the API & SAE APPROVAL STAMP ON IT.
#7
Rocketman
Rocketman
Most of my lawn equipment is only used in hot weather, and for the last few years I have used synthetic 10W / 40W, and have never had 1 single lubrications problem or engine failure. Synthetic oil pumps easier when cold, and because of the heat dissapating and lubricity quality's of synthetic lubricants, it actually allows an air cooled engine to run cooler. I would guess that a lawnmower engine in the hot summer heat would be running at 230 degrees if not higher. I think that is where the 10/40 viscosity comes into play. My 22 hp Briggs on my CC zero turn has almost 500 hours on the clock and still does not knock or use oil, and has all the power it had when it was new.
When engine temps are at their maximum, the thicker weight oil helps to take a lot of the mechanical shock loading out of the picture for the engine internals. Anyway that;'s my story and i'm sticking to it:wink:
When engine temps are at their maximum, the thicker weight oil helps to take a lot of the mechanical shock loading out of the picture for the engine internals. Anyway that;'s my story and i'm sticking to it:wink:
#8
I
Imowmylawn
I
Imowmylawn
Ok. Thanks everyone. I'll go get some 10w-30. I think straight 30w is in there now. That said, since I'm getting new oil anyways, what would you suggest? Should I get some Penzoil Platinum or more Quaker stake or even Mobil 1? (prefer the PP but GM required dexos for my car, hence the Quaker) Or should I spring for some deticated small engine oil? I really want to use synthetic for the high temps.
Also, should I put the Quaker in the push mower? It's a Honda engine. Or is that the same principal. And while on the subject of my push mower, it surges a ton the whole time it's running. Anyone have an idea as to why? It's 3 years old.
Also, should I put the Quaker in the push mower? It's a Honda engine. Or is that the same principal. And while on the subject of my push mower, it surges a ton the whole time it's running. Anyone have an idea as to why? It's 3 years old.
#9
Rocketman
Valvoline is a good oil for the money if you don't want to use synthetic. I have never personally liked Quaker State or Penzoil, but that is just me. Keeping it changed at the right intervals is probably the most important thing for a small engine!
Rocketman
Ok. Thanks everyone. I'll go get some 10w-30. I think straight 30w is in there now. That said, since I'm getting new oil anyways, what would you suggest? Should I get some Penzoil Platinum or more Quaker stake (prefer the PP but GM required dexos for my car, hence the Quaker) Or should I spring for some deticated small engine oil? I really want to use synthetic for the high temps.
Valvoline is a good oil for the money if you don't want to use synthetic. I have never personally liked Quaker State or Penzoil, but that is just me. Keeping it changed at the right intervals is probably the most important thing for a small engine!
#10
Old Goat
Back when I did many engine rebuilds for people, I would drop off an engine in the machine shops for rework and was always amazed that the old machinists could tell when an engine had been run with Quaker State or Penzoil, just by looking at it on the shop floor.
Prompted me to inquire what oil they used in their engines. Results were 100% Valvoline. Been there for 45 years and would NOT have anything else.
Charles
Old Goat
Valvoline is a good oil for the money if you don't want to use synthetic. I have never personally liked Quaker State or Penzoil, but that is just me. Keeping it changed at the right intervals is probably the most important thing for a small engine!
Back when I did many engine rebuilds for people, I would drop off an engine in the machine shops for rework and was always amazed that the old machinists could tell when an engine had been run with Quaker State or Penzoil, just by looking at it on the shop floor.
Prompted me to inquire what oil they used in their engines. Results were 100% Valvoline. Been there for 45 years and would NOT have anything else.
Charles
#11
P
possum
P
possum
Even if the Quaker State Penzoil stories were true years ago they are a moot point now days. Shell Oil Products United States owns and makes the Penzoil, Quaker State, Shell brands etc. Oil is made all over the world from oil extracted and refined all over the world and blended, packaged, shipped and sold in a hundred different ways from tuesday all over the world and all over North America. Its what is on the bottle from API and SAE like Rivets said. If you want to use Valvoline then use Valvoline. It is good oil like about all the other name brand oils. Just buy an oil that the engine maker calls for in the temps you use the engine in and that is all there is to it. Use synthetic if you wish. If you want to use your own judgement and use some oil other than the ones called for by the engine maker then do that. Lots of folks use oil other than the ones the engine maker calls for. They use their own judgement.
#12
reynoldston
reynoldston
Its only 2 qts. of oil, use what is called for.
#13
djdicetn
Imowmylawn,
As I understand it, synthetic oils weights have a very different calculation/application than regular motor oils. You may want to review/participate in the thred discussion below:
http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/general-mower-discussion/15265-full-synthetic-oil-use.html
Personally, I am old-fashioned , have never used synthetic(or synthetic blend), use only Penzoil products for my vehicles and for my lawn mowers NEVER use multi-viscosity which can "lead to oil consumption"(this explicitly stated in my Kawasaki Commercial engine handbook for my Gravely). I have used "ONLY" SAE 30W Briggs & Stratton engine oil(inexpensive and available at WalMart) in all my "small engine" lawn equipment applications. BTW, my first lawn tractor, a 1993 True Value Lawn Chief with a 16hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard, was in service for 19 years before the deck fell apart and the engine still ran like brand new and did not use a single drop of oil between seasons. Need I say more?
djdicetn
Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?
Imowmylawn,
As I understand it, synthetic oils weights have a very different calculation/application than regular motor oils. You may want to review/participate in the thred discussion below:
http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/general-mower-discussion/15265-full-synthetic-oil-use.html
Personally, I am old-fashioned , have never used synthetic(or synthetic blend), use only Penzoil products for my vehicles and for my lawn mowers NEVER use multi-viscosity which can "lead to oil consumption"(this explicitly stated in my Kawasaki Commercial engine handbook for my Gravely). I have used "ONLY" SAE 30W Briggs & Stratton engine oil(inexpensive and available at WalMart) in all my "small engine" lawn equipment applications. BTW, my first lawn tractor, a 1993 True Value Lawn Chief with a 16hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard, was in service for 19 years before the deck fell apart and the engine still ran like brand new and did not use a single drop of oil between seasons. Need I say more?
#14
reynoldston
reynoldston
Personally, I am old-fashioned. I started in the repair business in the early 60s. I have found lubrications has come a long ways since then.
#15
I
Imowmylawn
I
Imowmylawn
I ended up getting some Mobil 1 10W-30. The mower seems to love it. Starts easier (don't get the *cr----ank*...on the first turnover anymore...i.e. it would start to crank, pause, then crank with lots of shaking with straight 30W) and seems to run smoother throughout the rev range, but particularly the top end. Little quieter and better fuel economy and feels like it has a bit more power. No valve noise either. We will see if it burns oil although the manual states synthetic is ok. I noticed I seemed to get heat from the engine sooner than before. But that could be just bad memory. Thanks everyone for your responses.
#16
djdicetn
Imowmylawn,
That "sounds" good, but to each his own. If you can "see a difference" as you stated that clearly indicates better performance and if your engine manual explicitly states that synthetic is OK(and I would assume it would mention a preferred "vicosity" for synthetics) I don't blame you for giving a try(a LOT of knowledgeable users on the forum tout the advantages of synthetics). But.......my Kawasaki FX691V Owner's Manual does NOT even mention the use of synthetic oil and as I stated earlier it specifically says "Using multi-grade oils(5W20, 10W30 and 10W40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." I have to believe what Kawasaki tells me in regard to their engines, therefore my reasoning for continuing the use of Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W oil. Unless further reasearch on the Kawasaki website or a reply from their Tech Support via a "Contact Us" correspondence changes that, most likely I will take my chances on their recommendations.
djdicetn
I ended up getting some Mobil 1 10W-30. The mower seems to love it. Starts easier (don't get the *cr----ank*...on the first turnover anymore...i.e. it would start to crank, pause, then crank with lots of shaking with straight 30W) and seems to run smoother throughout the rev range, but particularly the top end. Little quieter and better fuel economy and feels like it has a bit more power. No valve noise either. We will see if it burns oil although the manual states synthetic is ok. I noticed I seemed to get heat from the engine sooner than before. But that could be just bad memory. Thanks everyone for your responses.
Imowmylawn,
That "sounds" good, but to each his own. If you can "see a difference" as you stated that clearly indicates better performance and if your engine manual explicitly states that synthetic is OK(and I would assume it would mention a preferred "vicosity" for synthetics) I don't blame you for giving a try(a LOT of knowledgeable users on the forum tout the advantages of synthetics). But.......my Kawasaki FX691V Owner's Manual does NOT even mention the use of synthetic oil and as I stated earlier it specifically says "Using multi-grade oils(5W20, 10W30 and 10W40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." I have to believe what Kawasaki tells me in regard to their engines, therefore my reasoning for continuing the use of Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W oil. Unless further reasearch on the Kawasaki website or a reply from their Tech Support via a "Contact Us" correspondence changes that, most likely I will take my chances on their recommendations.
#17
I
Imowmylawn
I will check the oil more often for sure, but i'd also like to add that my manual (engine manual, not mower manual...) shows a chart for oil weights and it only lists two, from 32F down, it says 5W-30 and for 32F up, it says 10W-30...it doesn't mention straight 30W at all...and it doesnt say anything about a different weight for synthetic...i know Briggs recommends synthetic 5W-30 for all temps now...
I
Imowmylawn
Imowmylawn,
That "sounds" good, but to each his own. If you can "see a difference" as you stated that clearly indicates better performance and if your engine manual explicitly states that synthetic is OK(and I would assume it would mention a preferred "vicosity" for synthetics) I don't blame you for giving a try(a LOT of knowledgeable users on the forum tout the advantages of synthetics). But.......my Kawasaki FX691V Owner's Manual does NOT even mention the use of synthetic oil and as I stated earlier it specifically says "Using multi-grade oils(5W20, 10W30 and 10W40) will increase oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently when using them." I have to believe what Kawasaki tells me in regard to their engines, therefore my reasoning for continuing the use of Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W oil. Unless further reasearch on the Kawasaki website or a reply from their Tech Support via a "Contact Us" correspondence changes that, most likely I will take my chances on their recommendations.
I will check the oil more often for sure, but i'd also like to add that my manual (engine manual, not mower manual...) shows a chart for oil weights and it only lists two, from 32F down, it says 5W-30 and for 32F up, it says 10W-30...it doesn't mention straight 30W at all...and it doesnt say anything about a different weight for synthetic...i know Briggs recommends synthetic 5W-30 for all temps now...
#18
Rocketman
Rocketman
One thing I have noticed about using synthetic is that I have to clean the area between the cylinders more often than with regular dino oil. Synthetic oil will leak easier and faster in an old engine. I think the valve covers leak more with synthetic. So about every month I use some kerosens in a squirt bottle and clean up the cylinders so grass doesn't stick in there and make her run hot! My Cadet has almost 500 hours so she leaks a little with synthetic!
#19
Kodie's Lawn Service
I think you wrong I just bought a Briggs engine they still use straight 30 in Summer or 10w 30 depending on the engine and only 5w30 winter
Kodie's Lawn Service
I will check the oil more often for sure, but i'd also like to add that my manual (engine manual, not mower manual...) shows a chart for oil weights and it only lists two, from 32F down, it says 5W-30 and for 32F up, it says 10W-30...it doesn't mention straight 30W at all...and it doesnt say anything about a different weight for synthetic...i know Briggs recommends synthetic 5W-30 for all temps now...
I think you wrong I just bought a Briggs engine they still use straight 30 in Summer or 10w 30 depending on the engine and only 5w30 winter
#20
djdicetn
Rocketman,
Doesn't just the fact that oil leakage is "expected" with synthetics discourage usage in an air-cooled 4-cycle engine???
IMowmylawn,
Most engine manuals have a chart like below which shows single/multi viscosity recommendations(this also has excerpt from Gravely Support at top):
djdicetn
One thing I have noticed about using synthetic is that I have to clean the area between the cylinders more often than with regular dino oil. Synthetic oil will leak easier and faster in an old engine. I think the valve covers leak more with synthetic. So about every month I use some kerosens in a squirt bottle and clean up the cylinders so grass doesn't stick in there and make her run hot! My Cadet has almost 500 hours so she leaks a little with synthetic!
Rocketman,
Doesn't just the fact that oil leakage is "expected" with synthetics discourage usage in an air-cooled 4-cycle engine???
IMowmylawn,
Most engine manuals have a chart like below which shows single/multi viscosity recommendations(this also has excerpt from Gravely Support at top):
Attachments
#21
I
Imowmylawn
My manual for the actual mower shows the first pic while the engine manual shows the second one. Both say 10W-30 for this temp and the engine manual says synthetic is ok.
I
Imowmylawn
Rocketman,
Doesn't just the fact that oil leakage is "expected" with synthetics discourage usage in an air-cooled 4-cycle engine???
IMowmylawn,
Most engine manuals have a chart like below which shows single/multi viscosity recommendations(this also has excerpt from Gravely Support at top):
My manual for the actual mower shows the first pic while the engine manual shows the second one. Both say 10W-30 for this temp and the engine manual says synthetic is ok.
Attachments
#22
djdicetn
Well, it seems that Kohler differs slightly from Kawasaki (and I think Briggs & Stratton) in mentioning/recommending synthetic. Since you have a Kohler(I lean towards what the engine manual says over what the mower manual says) you are well justified in seeking and considering using synthetic oil. Thanks for enlightening those of us not familiar with Kohlers!!
djdicetn
Imowmylawn,My manual for the actual mower shows the first pic while the engine manual shows the second one. Both say 10W-30 for this temp and the engine manual says synthetic is ok.
Well, it seems that Kohler differs slightly from Kawasaki (and I think Briggs & Stratton) in mentioning/recommending synthetic. Since you have a Kohler(I lean towards what the engine manual says over what the mower manual says) you are well justified in seeking and considering using synthetic oil. Thanks for enlightening those of us not familiar with Kohlers!!
#23
exotion
I started reading this thread I have always used 10w40 oil in my mowers never had a problem its nice and thick for long period uses in hot temps :/ plain ol what ever is cheapest oil :/
exotion
Imowmylawn,
Well, it seems that Kohler differs slightly from Kawasaki (and I think Briggs & Stratton) in mentioning/recommending synthetic. Since you have a Kohler(I lean towards what the engine manual says over what the mower manual says) you are well justified in seeking and considering using synthetic oil. Thanks for enlightening those of us not familiar with Kohlers!!
I started reading this thread I have always used 10w40 oil in my mowers never had a problem its nice and thick for long period uses in hot temps :/ plain ol what ever is cheapest oil :/
#24
djdicetn
All of this discussion about what's best for an air-cooled mower engine prompted me to call my dealer and talk to the service tech(since I'm doing the first oil change on my Gravely this weekend). I asked him if using the Briggs & Stratton SAE engine oil from now on versus a multi-viscosity or synthetic was recommended from his mechanic's point-of-view. He told me he agreed that for our climate, unless I mowed in weather below 32 degrees(which I definitely don't), that usage of SAE 30W designed for small engines and 50 hour oil changes would (A)not void my warranty and (B)my engine would last many, many problem-free years. I'm gonna just take my chances with what has worked for me for 20+ years(B & S oil).
djdicetn
I started reading this thread I have always used 10w40 oil in my mowers never had a problem its nice and thick for long period uses in hot temps :/ plain ol what ever is cheapest oil :/
All of this discussion about what's best for an air-cooled mower engine prompted me to call my dealer and talk to the service tech(since I'm doing the first oil change on my Gravely this weekend). I asked him if using the Briggs & Stratton SAE engine oil from now on versus a multi-viscosity or synthetic was recommended from his mechanic's point-of-view. He told me he agreed that for our climate, unless I mowed in weather below 32 degrees(which I definitely don't), that usage of SAE 30W designed for small engines and 50 hour oil changes would (A)not void my warranty and (B)my engine would last many, many problem-free years. I'm gonna just take my chances with what has worked for me for 20+ years(B & S oil).
#25
E
ebk
E
ebk
I just wanted to add my two cents worth on the viscosity issue. I happen to agree with the previous post from djdicetn. I use a straight weight SAE 30W synthetic oil in my mower. I have noticed in my Yukon that if I go beyond oil change recommendations, with heat and contamination, the oil viscosity improvers in multi-weight oils will lose their ability to thicken the oil at operating temperature. My last oil change was overdue and my synthetic 5W-30, at operating temperature, came out like a 5W. Keep in mind that this is in a water cooled engine that operates much cooler than an air cooled engine. After your warranty, you may want to look at a straight weight or dig more into oil. Good article: Motor oil Breakdown and an exhaustive, everything you want to know about oil, reference: http://hyperformancecycles.net/oil_bible.pdf Straight-weight synthetic oils are hard to find. I use Royal Purple synthetic SAE 30W to minimize damage to my engine. I am sure there are others out there. However, many synthetics are group III synthetics, which are typically made from mineral based oil stocks . Not pushing RP, but theirs is a group IV synthetic, formulated from non-mineral synthetic esters, vs the mineral based group III oils. BTW, in some countries group III oils are not allowed to be marketed as synthetic oil.
Probably TMI, however I thought it might help.
Probably TMI, however I thought it might help.
#26
D
dougwin
D
dougwin
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 0 W 30 in all my lawn equipment, which includes: Honda HHT25S string trimmer (over 600 operating hours), Toro Super Recycler mower (over 200 operating hours), Husqvarna HU800AWD (over 40 operating hours). Even the 0 W 30 is much thicker at room temperature than 30 weight oil at engine operating temperature (200 degrees or more). The synthetic oil holds up exceptionally well at high temperatures such as in air-cooled engines and turbochargers. For a very readable discussion on oil viscosity I like - Bob is the Oil Guy, who works a lot with air-cooled motorcycle engines.
#27
C
carlcap1491
I would say definitely you can use the full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil for you lawnmower but, you should check the oil level every time before you use your machine. I have used 5W-30 regular oil in my lawnmower and never had a problem but, I always check the oil level before every use.
C
carlcap1491
Let me start by saying sorry if is in the wrong place...
I have a Husqvarna LGT2554 with a 25HP Kholer Engine...I recently bought some Quaker Stake Ultimate Durability full synthetic 5W-30 for my car...I bought 10 quarts (sale) and my car takes 6...i was wondering if i could use that to change the oil in my lawn mower...the manual calls for 10W-30 above 32F...but in about 70-80F would the 5W be ok? if i idle for a bit first before increasing throttle maybe? I dont want to have to go buy more and i really want to use synthetic. Thanks for your help! Also, is QSUD a good oil to use since it's for a car engine and not a small engine?
I would say definitely you can use the full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil for you lawnmower but, you should check the oil level every time before you use your machine. I have used 5W-30 regular oil in my lawnmower and never had a problem but, I always check the oil level before every use.
#28
O
oldyellr
O
oldyellr
The difference between 10W30 and 5W30 is that at freezing temperatures 10W congeals more than 5W. That's for cold starting in winter. Both oils are 30 viscosity at operating temperature. In fact, because of its wider viscosity range and steeper viscosity curve, 5W30 likely does not thin out as much as 10W30 when ABOVE normal operating temperature. Add to that, being synthetic is an extra margin of safety. I would not hesitate to use 5W30. It's just a lawnmower, not a race car.
Better yet, why not save the synthetic 5W30 for the next time your car needs an oil change and just get some cheap Walmart 10W30 for the mower?
Better yet, why not save the synthetic 5W30 for the next time your car needs an oil change and just get some cheap Walmart 10W30 for the mower?
#29
exotion
I still stand by my 10w40 we have a wide range of temps in spokane we start out close to freezing and end our day with 80 my mowers get frequent oil changes and never had an oil issue. My honda takes 13. Ounces that's nothing compared to my toro at 23 my local napa has a sale on castrol gtx 2 dollars a quart I bought 20.
exotion
The difference between 10W30 and 5W30 is that at freezing temperatures 10W congeals more than 5W. That's for cold starting in winter. Both oils are 30 viscosity at operating temperature. In fact, because of its wider viscosity range and steeper viscosity curve, 5W30 likely does not thin out as much as 10W30 when ABOVE normal operating temperature. Add to that, being synthetic is an extra margin of safety. I would not hesitate to use 5W30. It's just a lawnmower, not a race car.
Better yet, why not save the synthetic 5W30 for the next time your car needs an oil change and just get some cheap Walmart 10W30 for the mower?
I still stand by my 10w40 we have a wide range of temps in spokane we start out close to freezing and end our day with 80 my mowers get frequent oil changes and never had an oil issue. My honda takes 13. Ounces that's nothing compared to my toro at 23 my local napa has a sale on castrol gtx 2 dollars a quart I bought 20.
#30
M
motoman
M
motoman
lmow, You have touched the favorite topic on this forum. I like 5w-30 and use it in my Intek 24 year round. Your engine will probably kick out more out which is good in my opinion . I add about 2-3 oz top up-to keep the sump full after each 1-1/2 hrs of mowing. Oil pressure is 35-40 psi even in 85F. If you are in warranty it probably is a good idea to document your purchase and stay with the manual call out. The 10w part of the oil is maintained by additive pak which is depleted fairly soon and leaves you with 30w. Better cooling is achieved by flow which a lighter oil provides. I also use my Nissan auto oil, Chevron.
edit: I was rereading this thread. The wife's German car (7500 red line) uses 0W-40 per mfgr. The stuff goes in like water. So much for thin oil not holding up, Our tractors run at "fast idle" 3000 rpm.
edit: I was rereading this thread. The wife's German car (7500 red line) uses 0W-40 per mfgr. The stuff goes in like water. So much for thin oil not holding up, Our tractors run at "fast idle" 3000 rpm.
#31
TnHusky
TnHusky
Well Heck, might as well throw my :2cents: in. I have used Pennzoil for years and never had 1 failure in anything. I ran it in the Briggs I had for 12 years and never had one problem. And I sold it to a guy at work and it's still running strong. I'm sorta torn about the viscosity myself and what to run. I do think that a straight 30wt would be better but my manual says 10-30. I also went to the Kohler web site and there's say 10-30 as well. I did however see something interesting on there web site. They didn't recommend running syn. until 100 hrs on the engine due to seating of rings. I know, sounds crazy but that's what it said but I've tried to find it again and can't. Anyway I may run 30wt or 10-30 but you can bet it will be Pennzoil.
Attachments
#32
M
motoman
M
motoman
Husky, The ring seat issue raged on about 30 years ago and the leaking of synthetic oil is still discussed. I went synthetic gear oil in a Nissan and Pontiac , both with high miles . No leaks or problems. There may be something to the ring seat thing in some engines. I would listen to the Kohler people.
#33
F
fiftycalal
I run Amsoil 10-40 in all of my air cooled and water cooled OFF ROAD engines, B&S, Techumseh, Kohler, Kawasaki, etc. I do not run it in my Wisconsin's as of yet. All of my motorcycles also run it. I think if I had only one oil then this would be it. I even use it in the front forks of all my motorcycles. I will not say how long I leave it in without changing it as it is much longer then the recommended time. but that is another story. My cars and trucks run 5-30 as it is called for.
I would say to use what you feel comfortable with. for me Amsoil does it.
F
fiftycalal
Ok. Thanks everyone. I'll go get some 10w-30. I think straight 30w is in there now. That said, since I'm getting new oil anyways, what would you suggest? Should I get some Penzoil Platinum or more Quaker stake or even Mobil 1? (prefer the PP but GM required dexos for my car, hence the Quaker) Or should I spring for some deticated small engine oil? I really want to use synthetic for the high temps.
Also, should I put the Quaker in the push mower? It's a Honda engine. Or is that the same principal. And while on the subject of my push mower, it surges a ton the whole time it's running. Anyone have an idea as to why? It's 3 years old.
I run Amsoil 10-40 in all of my air cooled and water cooled OFF ROAD engines, B&S, Techumseh, Kohler, Kawasaki, etc. I do not run it in my Wisconsin's as of yet. All of my motorcycles also run it. I think if I had only one oil then this would be it. I even use it in the front forks of all my motorcycles. I will not say how long I leave it in without changing it as it is much longer then the recommended time. but that is another story. My cars and trucks run 5-30 as it is called for.
I would say to use what you feel comfortable with. for me Amsoil does it.
#34
D
danbo
D
danbo
every motor, that i have seen, with broken connecting rods, had very black burnt oil. i have seen a few.
broken rods are probably the the most expensive break down you can have.
on a mover my dad had, he had just changed the oil (non-synthetic) but the cooling fins were plugged, the oil broke down in the heat in one mowing.(blown motor) i made one motor out of two (junk yard rebuild) and with the use of synthetic oil it has about 2500 hrs (yes 2500) on the rebuild, and the cooling fins only get cleaned when i do it for him.
now to my point........
synthetic oil wont break down in the heat that a fan cooled motor can make.
it may leak or burn oil more with synthetic but that is a small price to pay.
5W-30 or 10W-30 if you use synthetic i don't think it really maters.
broken rods are probably the the most expensive break down you can have.
on a mover my dad had, he had just changed the oil (non-synthetic) but the cooling fins were plugged, the oil broke down in the heat in one mowing.(blown motor) i made one motor out of two (junk yard rebuild) and with the use of synthetic oil it has about 2500 hrs (yes 2500) on the rebuild, and the cooling fins only get cleaned when i do it for him.
now to my point........
synthetic oil wont break down in the heat that a fan cooled motor can make.
it may leak or burn oil more with synthetic but that is a small price to pay.
5W-30 or 10W-30 if you use synthetic i don't think it really maters.
#35
TnHusky
danbo, I'll agree with you 100% on Syn. I do run Pennzoil but I run PP in my truck and in my wifes CRV. I run Amsoil in the bike and will probably swap over to Syn but just not sure when. And I've heard the debate on Syn or not Syn on the motorcycle forums several years ago before HD decided to jump on the band wagon and start selling there own Syn oil. No doubt Syn is better I personally know that again just wondering how many hours to put on the factory oil before I make the switch.
TnHusky
every motor, that i have seen, with broken connecting rods, had very black burnt oil. i have seen a few.
broken rods are probably the the most expensive break down you can have.
on a mover my dad had, he had just changed the oil (non-synthetic) but the cooling fins were plugged, the oil broke down in the heat in one mowing.(blown motor) i made one motor out of two (junk yard rebuild) and with the use of synthetic oil it has about 2500 hrs (yes 2500) on the rebuild, and the cooling fins only get cleaned when i do it for him.
now to my point........
synthetic oil wont break down in the heat that a fan cooled motor can make.
it may leak or burn oil more with synthetic but that is a small price to pay.
5W-30 or 10W-30 if you use synthetic i don't think it really maters.
danbo, I'll agree with you 100% on Syn. I do run Pennzoil but I run PP in my truck and in my wifes CRV. I run Amsoil in the bike and will probably swap over to Syn but just not sure when. And I've heard the debate on Syn or not Syn on the motorcycle forums several years ago before HD decided to jump on the band wagon and start selling there own Syn oil. No doubt Syn is better I personally know that again just wondering how many hours to put on the factory oil before I make the switch.