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Picked up a used HRX217HYA. Was over-revving. I adjusted the gov arm per Honda's instruction; ie, the shaft adjustment. Still over-revving so I bent the gov arm slightly to reduce tension on the spring. This put the unloaded rpm at a desirable 3200 at full throttle. However, when I engage the...

This may help. Click on the FAQ "How do I adjust the Blade Control cable?" https://powerequipment.honda.com/lawn-mowers/maintenance-and-support

It sure does help. thank you. Under a mag. glass there isn't a notch on either ring; the only real difference is that thin circumference of copper-coloring visible in the picture I posted previously. I got this engine in a trade & the original owner told me he hasn't performed a lot of...

I decided to use the ring with the copper-colored rim/edge as the 2nd ring. Honda for some reason differentiated it from the other ring and typically Honda colors the 2nd ring black vs chrome for the top ring for identification purposes. So, I reasoned that the copper ring is another way of...

With a magnifying glass, I examined the ends as you recommended. Did not detect a champhur. However, on closer inspection, I did see that one ring (bottom ring below) has a thin copper colored coating around it's circumference. That ring is also ever so slightly narrower (less wide) than the other.

Opened up a GCV190 that was smoking badly. Surprisingly, the insides looked good, cylinder, piston, crankshaft, etc. However, there was excessive carbon build-up on the exhaust valve such that it wouldn't close all the way. Thinking that this may have been the cause of the smoking, I replaced it...

Yeah, I'm thinking that the arch is there to make it easier to get the 2nd clip installed. The 1st clip is easier to install because you can hold the piston in your hand while twisting the clip into its groove. But the 2nd clip must be installed after the rod is attached to the pin, thus it is...

The retaining clips on the kit I got are identical; both have tangs. Which side gets the arch, the left clutch/shaft side (red dot) or right recoil side (yellow dot) or does it matter?

Am rebuilding a 128LD. Received the OEM kit from seller and noticed that the piston has different openings where the piston pin affixes Notice the arch on one side versus no arch on the other. The scored piston that I am replacing has no such arch. Is this critical when inserting the piston into...

Yeah, I agree that you are likely ok. Honda ... well ... does things different. The capacity of the engine is 18-20 oz. but when one changes the oil, he is only supposed to add about 12. The difference is residual that somehow doesn't come out when the engine is tipped over for draining. Go...

Anyone know what the NOT is for a GCV160 or GCV190? All the manuals I have found simply refer to NOT but none give an actual temp in degrees. I did find a forum where a Honda motorbike was reported at a max of about 210 degrees.

Glad it got solved. If it comes back, I kinda suspect the coil. Sometimes the heat from the engine exposes weakness in the coil which could explain why it runs for awhile & then dies. I mean, it must be getting fuel because it starts & runs for at least 2 minutes. Aftermarket coils on Amazon are...

Thanks for the clarification. Honda has so many model #'s ... it gets confusing. Anyway, I went to the link you provided & it shows both the upper & lower spring. I think perhaps the lower spring is sort of a safety "overkill" item. It assists the upper spring in bringing the mower to a stop...

Mine is the HMA model, not the K2.

Picked up a used HRX217 HMA a few years ago & have enjoyably mowed with it for 3 seasons. Recently I saw an HRX video at ereplacementparts.com where a similar model has the lower spring (called a "tension spring" in the video) pictured below whereas mine does not. Mine has the upper spring...

I suppose one could insert a zerk. As I originally posted , I am dealing with a 10 year old JD, long after JD exited the walk behind market. So, if the tranny fails, I have few options to keep a fine mower propelling. So, even though I am good presently, I am just thinking ahead.

Yeah, I think the risk is greater than the reward but just thought I'd ask.

I have a John Deere walk behind, JS46 (2010-2011). The tranny (rear wheel) is fine now but since this mower is no longer being made, parts are becoming few & far between. I'd like to open up the tranny and check the grease situation & probably clean & re-grease like I do on my Toro's. I have had...

If you are confident that you have thoroughly cleaned it, you have 2 options: 1) buy a new carb on Amazon for as low as $10 from time to time or 2) buy a set of micro drill bits (cheap) and open up the main jet in increments until (hopefully) the surging ceases. Hondas are finicky.

I might suggest watching these two videos. I followed this fellow's recommendations this summer on an HMA with good success. The speed increased substantially from mediocre to where I am comfortable walking in the mid range of the orange speed lever. Be sure to spend some time bleeding the air...

Okay. Good discussion; that's what I was hoping for.

Thanks. As I said in my original post, this mower is auto choke; ie, no primer bulb. Maybe Briggs included it just in case this carb could also be used with a primer bulb engine although the only engines I know of in this so-called "Professional" series are auto choke.

Thank you. Please send me a link wher Thanks. I thought it must be a vent of some sort. BTW, please send a link where I can buy the gasket for $1 including shipping.

I often cut my own gaskets. When doing so on one of my B&S engines (8.75 OHV Professional Series on a Deere push mower), I had a bit of difficulty lining up & cutting the opening circled in orange on the gasket. It mates up to the hole also in orange on the carb. Then I stopped to think, what is...

Am working with a GCV190 for a lawn mower. After several repairs, I fastened it to a test lawn mower deck & attached some blades. I have seen before that this is advised because the lawn mower version of the 190 has the regular flywheel (not heavy like in a pressure washer) & thus needs the...

Thanks. You are the only one who has attempted to address the initial intent of this post. Man, did most responses get off track in a hurry! So, you are saying that the adjustable versions allow for the adjustment of rpm's by turning that screw? Is that it?

Hmm, evidently nobody here has actually bought one of these carbs & adjusted it by turning that screw. I posted at another forum as well & got no responses. Yet, Amazon & ebay have dozens of offerings so people like us are obviously buying this style carb. Just saying.

Thanks for the background. But what does the adjustment actually do?

I am looking to buy a new carb for my GCV190. To my surprise, I noticed that many (all?) now have a Pilot Screw. I have not bought a new machine of any type in over a decade so none of my Honda carbs have this. I suppose this allows for some adjustment but not sure what exactly, RPM's maybe? Any...

Thanks Thanks. Didn't have trigger WD40 so I used brake clean. Surging evened out & then came back after fluid was used up. So, I went back & tried a different set of gaskets & engine ran much better. Still a little hiccup though so I am going to re-clean the carb.

Friend brought a GCV190 from a pressure washer. Runs on first pull but surges like mad unless choked. Cleaned carb that was on it & tried two known good carbs but still surges. Gaskets in good shape & governor is set right. Air leak from somewhere maybe? Don't have a leak down tester but maybe...

Have a GCV190 with a busted cylinder case due to a thrown rod. Remarkably, the lower end, crankshaft, piston, valves & other key parts look fine. New cylinder & rod would cost about $86, very close to the ebay prices for used parts. But here's the question: what issues might I encounter with a...

I think you have a good idea here but not sure what you mean with "flop the container." How about a picture?

Don't know if you got what you wanted from your post. But here is a video that helped me on my HRX217HMA. The fellow who posted it evidently doesn't speak English but his filming is very good. He has a good bit of footage on the clutch, both removal and re-installation.

Opps, forgot the picture.

Back to the question of whether the governor shaft is vulnerable to slipping back into the crankcase. That is, if one decides to follow Taryl & Doublewide's advice to insert a seal into the shaft recess in order to stop oil from seeping out. Well, the answer seems to be "no." Something causes it...

Friend brought me a Toro w/ a 6.75 Kohler; bought it used. Starts on 1st pull & rpms are right at 3200. However, after about 30-40 seconds, the rpm's dip audibly by probably several hundred & black smoke (not thick black, but definitely visible) is emitted from the muffler. Then, after another...

Unlike many transmissions, most Personal Pace's are serviceable. There is a cover plate (w/gasket) over the gear housing secured merely by four screws. Take that cover off and grease the two gears. I recommend "00" grease (aka Cotton Picker grease) that I get from Tractor Supply for a mere...

That's exactly the info I was seeking. You really know your stuff. Thank you.

Could be the cable or the clutch itself might be shot. I am resurrecting an HRX217HMA presently so I'll keep an eye out for what might be causing your problem. At this point, I just don't know. Have you joined/posted at lawnsite.com? You might get more replies there.

I took a Honda GCV160 off a rusted Husqvarna and put it on a good Toro Personal Pace deck. Everything lined up perfectly, bolt holes & cables, etc., and the cut height is good for my lawn. I used the Toro blade and adapter as both engine shafts are 25MM. Maybe your engine is not a GCV160?

Are you sure that the HRX217 had the GCV160? They ship with the larger GCV190 so someone could have made a swap. The reason I ask is because I also have an HRX217 deck, etc. in decent shape and a good 160 in storage.

Your title says "pops out of gear" but explanation seems to be that the "clutch" disengages. The former would seem to be the self propel mechanisms, including the transmission, and the latter would be the blade stop clutch. Not sure if I can help, but a little more clarification would help.

Don't get me wrong; I get it. And I appreciate everyone's input. I think several of you are saying (wisely) that If it is not a beneficial part, regardless of what Taryl & Doublewide have posted, then why even mess with it and run the risk of sending the shaft into the engine. Another way of...

Good points all. But remember my original post was simply to see if anyone has attempted this (guess not) and could weigh in on Taryl & Doublewide's warning that the gov. shaft could potentially (they are not certain) slip back into the engine when installing the seal.

I see your point about the appropriate oil level being below the the gov. shaft but I still suspect the seal. I have included a picture of my dipstick along with the one you referenced at Jack's. They are different for some reason. Anyway, there are 9 diamonds (the etchings on the stick look...

Agree with you. But I am & have been conscious of Honda's oil checking method; i.e., insert & lay the dipstick on top of the tube but don't screw it in. Yet I have oil accumulating around & just below the governor shaft on both a GCV160 & a GCV190. Actually, I am not surprised that I haven't...

Noticed that I have this common leak from where the governor shaft protrudes from the crankcase. Honda machined a recess for a seal but does not include the seal with a new engine. Two videos, Taryl & Doublewide 6, show how to insert the proper seal but warn that you have to be careful not to...

Yes, absolutely. Fill until it actually spills over a tad.

Thanks for the reply. Actually, I got it working after buying a new upgraded cable & bleeding the air out of the unit for the third time. Can't emphasize the latter enough. One needs to keep tilting & rotating for a long time (patience; something I usually lack), maybe even 30 minutes or so...