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if there was no fuel in the carb, then why is what you have to ask. Maybe someone added a shut off you haven't found. Your initial post almost sounds like it ran off the fuel in the bowl then died because the bowl went dry. I'd be looking for a fuel shut off. If there was none, I'd be figuring...

My recollection is someone asked the same a couple years ago, and the was that D1 and D2 are part of the harness between the two ignition coils.

there are three pages to re-read so I will just comment. The way to use the dye is to clean the area off completely with some brake cleaner etc., and maybe even the pressure washer. Then add the dye to the oil and run it for a couple minutes. Inspect. If nothing, run it again a little longer...

Napa sells the dye and a flashlight very inexpensive. My VW bus engine was leaking and turned out to be totally different places than I thought it was. This is an example what you will see with the dye

The float is going to leak anytime fuel is reaching it. If the engine is off, it fills the cylinder(s) and drips down into the crankcase. If the engine is running the excess is going to get pulled into the cylinder and burned. The excess will make the mixture rich, which will be washing down...

that is pretty thick oil. I used to run 20W 50 in my air cooled VW bus but using 15W 40 Synthetic lowered operating temps quite a bit.

I want to say that you gently use a 3/16" socket on the top of the governor shaft and lightly hold it while the nut is loosened and tightened. Then see what the RPM is. If it doesn't change then the governor is bad. If so, $23 for the part new plus you will need the sump gasket $6...

you did test it by using it. That killed the engine. Most likely it is either defective or out of adjustment.

it is still going to leak excess fuel into the engine as it runs, The engine may burn it and spit any unburned out the exhaust, but the rich mixture will wash oil off the cylinder walls and still ruin the engine. You need to fix it before running it further.

don't know but one place had this part number (PWD 691343) close to something that looked like it. But at $6 each and shipping, a new plate might be less. Briggs sells what might be the part for almost $9 each...

Might try searching some of the mower salvage yards. Google says they were used on several different brands. Last published price was around $300 so might want to look for a used one anyway.

before you can breathe in you have to breathe out.

I agree with Rivets, but also take a look at the fuel hose too when you pull the carb off, in case it broke.

I googled Hustler and it took me to the website. Clicked on part and service then put the model in. Hit the arrow and it took me to a manual. You'll probably have to enter that way but I will attach the link. Took 30 seconds to do it, and another 15 seconds to look at the parts manual. Then...

Newbie here" Eh? do you think it might have value to tell us what a 22040 is? You will need to put down the brand, model and serial number in your question plus the parts you are looking for if you want a serious answer.

You can pull the spark plug out, and shine a light down in there. If you have a straight shot down to the top of the piston you can put in a clean bamboo skewer etc, and see it go up and down with the engine being slowly turned by hand in the correct direction. If you can see the valves, you...

the problem is how the governor is hooked up. Something changed when you worked on it. The way the governor works is that the engine ALWAYS runs wide open. The governor's job is to manage the speed slower. If it is running wide open, then the governor is not pulling the throttle closed. Again...

you hooked the governor linkage or spring up wrong.

those numbers just jumped out at me. A 25 MM metric shaft is slightly smaller than a 1-inch shaft (25.4 MM). 25 MM is .9843".

ThreeBond 1211 SDS https://chemmanagement.ehs.com/9/610003B0-D0A0-4364-9756-B22EE75E34EA/pdf/UOP799

I would call technical support for the manufacturer. Sometimes there are technical bulletins that say things like, "If part #XYZ is replaced, part #123 also has to be replaced due to changes in assembly." The way around that is find a good used part that has the original design.

how did it get hydro-locked? You spraying fuel in, or the carb dumping it in, or rain water, etc.?

I buy only engine parts from https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/ if the product is in production, or our local mower shop. The Briggs store is a retailer who sells parts for Briggs but is not part of Briggs. If the part is NLA then I try Ebay. Ebay has people who may look good and who believe...

Wanted to close out this thread. Got a new block, new valves, new oil slinger - governor, new cam, piston assembly with rod. Engine was completed last night, mowed the yards today. Very quiet mechanically. Old engine always had a little rattle/knock in it, this one is like a sewing machine...

A while back, the National Academy of the Sciences funded a thorough study of ethanol added to fuels for gasoline engines. That study was released in February 2022. Then the study was peer-reviewed to see if the data and conclusion were correct. The peer reviews agreed. The effect of adding...

In general, crankcase gases include carbon monoxide, unburned gasoline vapors, and other flammables. Lots of systems have some form of filter, or plate, that keeps the flames in a carb backfire from flowing into the crankcase, igniting those gases. If there is a filter inside or on the line...

depends how good you are with mechanical things as to what to do next. The two problems may not even be related, or maybe you got the valves too tight and one is hitting a piston etc..

just a guess but look for a spot where two panels come together about the width of the center section, or a place you might lift something on it that might cut - maybe a panel, seat handle etc.. You not providing a model and serial number is going to stop folks around here from looking at parts...

Go to a local motorcycle shop and buy an inexpensive kit to lubricate cables. They come with a tool and can that forces lubricant all the way thru the cable. Used on on my VW bus heater cables, which were stiff since new, and what a difference it made. Or you can buy a cable luber tool seperate...

the CJ8Y has a projected nose. You'd have to make sure it doesn't hit the piston etc.. edit: I see others have already mentioned it on page 1, and how to use clay to check for interference.

Don't assume the new coil is good, and don't keep firing the parts cannon. Get a schematic for your specific mower and determine how that coil works. Example - does it rely on other circuitry to make a spark, or is it a basic magneto that just needs to have the magnets pass by it.

Thank you. Funny thing but I have the equal of this book for the L-Head engines and this image below is not in it.

It was put together before this thread started. Completion is waiting on one part from Briggs before the build can be run.

Does "You got it?" mean are you asking if I have the answer, or telling me that what I did is correct? The youtube guy did not give me the warm fuzzies that he had it right either, but that is how I think it works, and how I put it back together. I still don't understand how the...

I found this image online in a youtube. Is this the correct way to install - basically does the sump plate keep it in this position, or is there something else needed? The book says some use a spring washer on top of the plate that goes over the cam, but the 125K02-0189-e1 does not use one.

This is on the 125K02-0189-E1 06041958 engine I am rebuilding. When I took it apart, the governor assembly fell off with the sump plate. This is the first time I've had one of these engines apart. When I put it back together, I made some guesses how the governor goes. If someone is familiar...

I know the technical answer but am asking anyway to verify the number. The Briggs book gives max end gap and ring land clearance, but not minimum gap. The engine is a 125K02-01890E1 06041958 . New piston and rings in a new bore. The 2nd ring comes in about .030" with a book spec max of .045"...

Can think of three things that might cause that: 1. cam timing is off. If the engine was rebuilt then someone did not time it right. If this happened during use then it is a plastic cam machine that the cam lobes moved on the steel part of the shaft. Not totally unheard of. 2. The exhaust is...

best bet would be to join a forum dealing with that brand outboard motors, or find a dealer who sold Evinrude 30 - 40 years ago. Fuel lines can go bad and drip down the outside of a carb also. That said, have you done a Google Search using "TEIKEI 5BK 6G905"? I got many pages when I Googled...

what others wrote. All the mulching mowers I ever owned needed a mulching plug. Unfortunately they seem to bring a small fortune even used on ebay. Sometimes Amazon has the right one. Without the model and serial number for your mower, it is unlikely anyone here can help you look for one.

normally on a gear like that, I would use a wire brush on a drill to go round and round the shaft so there is no rust. Then I would use a bearing plate under the gear and a puller on that. Make sure there is no pin or set screw on it.

take your time and don't fire the parts cannon without going thru the things that have been mentioned.

what brand plugs and where did you get them? When is the last time the valves were adjusted? What you are describing can have many causes. Basically you have a problem either with ignition, compression or mixture. If the ignition fails on one cylinder, say a bad counterfeit plug you got on...

check pulleys for play, check trans and engine mounts, check the tension spring, and frame for cracks that allow it to overly flex. Since it seems to be happening when you stop etc., that would be the moment the engine, transmission and frame flex the most.

yes it does. It significantly changes pulley spacing, and tension on the belt as it wears. watch

even at 60 psi it should run some. Pull the plug out, crank it over a few times and let it sit ten minutes. Might be flooded with a wet or fouled spark plug.

I don't know all the different models. That said, any model with a brake shoe that rests against a pulley has a change in belt geometry when the brake wears. If this model has such, then check it. If it does not, ignore this as a possibility. That said, below is a diagram of that model...

also if it has a brake pad that rides on the pulley, check that. Mowers that use that type brake have a known issue because a worn pad changes belt geometry.

there might be a little water in the fuel would be my first guess. A wiring fault as my second guess, or debris in the fuel tank my third guess. Try adding a some 99% Isopropyl alcohol to the fuel tank, or some HEET or any other additive that removes water.