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If you ask a question about a mower, supply model and serial number. If it's an engine question, supply model info on engine also. That's the main one. Writing in sentences, using punctuation helps, and you seem to be doing that quite well. Welcome!

You said " As long as I have one arm pushed forward a little, even though the other arm is pulled back some, it won't stall." That really sounds suspicous. Are you talking about crossing through the neutral point, or just relaxing off full forward? Auto Doc said "The control arms (handles)...

Do you have model number/serial for mower and motor? That helps anyone looking for a replacement part...

True enough, but there was a new post from Sharky saying he has the same problem.

Or crud in gas tank. When it quits, pull fuel line from carb and check for free flow. If it's not free, clean tank, replace tank filter if there is one, think about replacing all fuel lines.

Good! Thanks for the update.

Rivets is correct that this could test your patience and skills. Do you have a voltmeter? You'll probably need one. I would clean the contacts on the blade clutch switch, and the connection to the clutch. I would read the resistance of the clutch when cool and functional, and hot and non...

Some people here take the information provided, and look for answers to help the poster. If you have bad information, or lack of information, it can be hard to help.

Thanks. I worked on a Toro, and the release is a lever on the back of the machine, and I was sort of looking for something accessible. Never mind....:) I was going to jack up the rear end and pull the back wheels. I'm sure I will find those releases. I did watch the video, and the hydro...

Ok, last question for today. How do I activate the bypass? The hydrogear manual shows where the bypass levers are, but I don't recall anything on the Dixie Chopper to activate them. The manual says I need to cycle the controls with bypass open and closed. I've ordered filters, and hope to do...

Thanks again.

Just found that, thanks. Is there a good way to pick an equivalent? Lots out there for 1/2 the cost of Hydro-Gear. Normally on Amazon, I look for lots of good ratings, and stay away from stuff with only a couple reviews.

So, it is a Magnum, 2550ko. The sticker under the seat is badly faded, but based on it being 25 horse, 50 inch cut, kohler motor, I think I got the right model #. Owner doesn't remember the filters ever being changed, so that's up for next weekend. Hopefully Hydro Gear will tell me which filters.

I will do that, thanks.

Yes, it is the Confidant engine. I'll be looking at it tomorrow. I expect replacing those filters would be a good idea. I don't know how long my buddy has owned it, but I've been cutting his grass for years, and I don't think it's been done. I work with him on lots of stuff. I'll look for...

Sounds good Tommag. Welcome.

This big? 50" cut.

MParr, the number I got is from the sticker in the second pic from your link. I will look again for the other one.

Thanks, I'll look into that.

I found what some have said is the model # sticker, and it has 17101226. I can't find anything that says that's a model number. The sticker is on the frame by the right front wheel. It's a Kohler 25hp powered mower made in 2016. I can't find anything that says it's a model number. Any...

That'll do it.

What kind of bad gas? Was there crud in it? Clean out that tank if you haven't already.

I'm not clear on what you're describing. Fuel won't come from tank, but the hoses are clear? Have you blown into the hose going to the tank? That will often loosen crud clogging the fuel pickup. Of course if it works, it means you need to clean the tank and fuel pickup. Check fuel flow from...

2.4 Ohms sounds decent. Hopefully fixing the short takes care of the problem.

Or clutch is drawing too much power. Comparing voltage between clutch engaged and not engaged would tell us something, as would the resistance of the clutch.

Is that voltage with blade engaged or not? Check it both ways. Check the resistance of the PTO clutch, as StarTech said.

Well, I was answering, but Ilengine beat me to it. Get out that voltmeter.

Did you drain the fuel tank? You could have crud in the tank. Auto Doc's and slomo both mentioned this.

Don't forget the fuel tank. Check fuel flow, clean tank.

Have you checked fuel flow to carb? It needs to flow freely, not a trickle. You replaced filter and lines, but could have crud in the tank.

I thought so, but did not want to ASSUME. You know what that does.:p

If she's 15, she ought to be able to hold the seat down. I would check that the seat moves freely, and there isn't something blocking it. I can normally press on the seat with my hand and activate the switch. Check the switch and make sure it's not damaged. I didn't think we were talking...

You need to check wiring diagram, as the seat switch may have more than one function. You also get a clue if the connector has more than 2 wires. For example, the PTO clutch may need the seat switch activated. Is the grand daughter mature enough to run the machine? Bypassing the seat switch...

So, if you use water to check for leaks, does the motor slow if it's sucking water, or do you just see it being sucked in?

You're welcome!

Thanks for the update. I'm glad I was able to help.

Sounds like the switch, or wires/connections.

When you jump the solenoid, are you jumping from the battery terminal to the starter? If so, your solenoid could be bad.

In the third video, the fan blade/pulley seems to be shaking more than the other one. In the first video, around 16 seconds, there seems a lot of vibration in that arm/spring. I don't know that machine, but that's what I get from the videos.

Looking back at the first post, check fuel flow to carb. You may have crud in the tank, migrating into the carb, and sticking the needle valve open.

I would start with needle valve. While you have the bowl off, check on the solenoid too, but the needle valve is the main suspect. Change the oil once you fix the problem too.

Well that could be a problem. Have you used the compression tester on anything else? Just trying to find out if it's known good, and you're used to using it.

Did you check for free flow from tank to pump, then from pump to carb? Sure sounds like you're not getting enough.

How did you check the spark?

Did you compare the belts before installing? The belt could be longer. When you installed it, did it seem to be the same tension? Where did you get the belt? Generic auto parts belts are not the same as mower belts.

OK, runs great, kill switch works. Thanks slomo.

Ok, put it back together enough to do your test. I get spark bypassing plug. Bought plug at O'Reilly's. Putting back together, should be running soon. I know there isn't a lot of resistance on that coil terminal to ground, but it fooled me. I need a good VOM. I got spoiled by the Fluke...

Yes, I know. The main concern for the generator is refrigeration, but I have not tested with it since replacing carb. I have used this generator for several storms with extended power loss. It ran my refrigerator fine. I'm just testing some before declaring the generator fixed. After I put...

No compressor in that 16 amps, that's 2 power tools rated draws. I wanted to see what happened to voltage/RPM when I put on an electrical load. It's a saw and a 1/2" impact driver. Steady running.

I'm going to test with a meter that reads Hertz, I have one, but it's not reliable. How about refrigeration? That's my main concern during hurricane season. I ordered a kill o watt meter. Testing with 16 amp load, voltage was stable at 120.