Pro PP105G30 no start

motor31

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Hi, had the PP015G30 for about 8 years now. Last your it became difficult to start. Had to rapidly repeatedly turn the ignition switch to start before it would fire up. After the first start it would start fine on first attempt. Starter would spin rapidly when it engaged. No sluggish crank, strong action. This season I bought a new ignition switch and installed it after disassembling the old one and cleaning the contacts did not improve it. Now the new switch and the old switch will not start it even after a couple minutes of trying to get the thing to crank. No solenoid click or starter activity. New battery at 13 volts. Old switch and new switch both show continuity on the same pins when key put into on and when the key turned to start. Under seat kill switch also tested good. Brake pedal switch is being depressed by the lever.

I did a search but didn't find any thread about the PP105G30.
 
First need to confirm that the 20 amp fuse is good, and the contacts on the fuse are not corroded. Then need to make sure the brake switch and the pto switch are actually working. And also need to make sure the starter solenoid is working. So time to break out the ohm meter.
 
Hi, Did all of the above. Even checked the old switch. I'm old (72) so couldn't reach the solenoid. A mechanic neighbor came over and he was able to reach the solenoid contacts. Shorting them out, think old school starting a 60's vintage car, and the starter cranked. Solenoid failed. Replacement on order and my neighbor will install because I am no longer as flexible and coordinated as I was when I was wrenching on planes before retiring almost 25 years ago.

Thank you so much for the rapid reply!
 
Just because he jumped the contacts does not mean the solenoid is bad.

I suspect there is a safety switch not functioning correctly.

Please provide the product label information off of this mower.

Here is an example I found on Parts Tree:

 
4 post solenoid.

Here is a question. Did the mechanic actually test the solenoid or just jumper-ed the two large posts? Just jumping the two large terminal is just a lazy way of testing that can fail you.

If not tested it can be that it not either not receiving 12V+ on one trigger terminal or the ground for the other trigger terminal could be bad. Just repair a Husqvarna where the ground wire to the solenoid trigger circuit had failed.
 
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