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Thank you. That voltage drop is not good.

Please clarify, is the fuel pump electric? That was my impression from what you wrote.

Here's the motor, I think. https://www.partstree.com/models/ch740-0041-kohler-command-pro-engine-made-for-scag-25hp-725cc/05-ignition-charging-4/

Here's the wiring diagram, from https://www.partstree.com/models/stt61a-27ka-scag-turf-tiger-61-zero-turn-mower-27hp-kawasaki-sn-7740001-7749999/electrical-schematic-23hp-amp-27hp-kawasaki-5/ Well, that's not very useful, as it's for the mower, not the motor, and doesn't show the charge system...

That's what I thought. What's the model number? Maybe a wiring diagram will help.

Sure sounds like a power problem. What is the voltage now? It sounds like the voltage went down with engine running, which sounds like alternator/regulator. Looking back where you said fuel flow drops off with engine turning over, which sounds like the same thing. Did you check the wiring...

Use a spark plug. Remove the plug, connect it, and ground it, and crank the engine. Do it in the shade, so you can see the spark. It's not as good as an adjustable gap tester, but it's better than the light bulb.

The fuse blowing suggests an electrical problem, perhaps an intermittent short. I would inspect the wiring, and jiggle/tap them with engine running to see if you can make it die. Please provide model # info so people can look up the circuit diagrams and other info on the mower.

If taking off the brake kills the motor, you need to check all the safety switches and wiring. Just because the seat switch has continuity doesn't mean it can't be the problem. Unplug the wires at the switches and examine the surfaces, you should see shiny where the contacts make contact...

Good call Ewan, I forgot to mention that.

No smell now, or start of summer?

Check the oil, smell it for gas. If needle valve is leaking you could be getting hydrolock. If you smell gas, need to clean carb and test to see if valve seals. Change oil before running.

I was trying to find out if you were hydrolocked from excess fuel in crankcase. It can cause some of what you reported. About half doesn't sound good, though I'm not sure I get what you are saying.

Did you see the fuel go into the carb, or just see it going through the fuel lines? Let us know what happens with fresh fuel.

Did you verify good fuel flow? When replacing all that fuel stuff, did you drain the tank? Have you checked the carb linkages to make sure the throttle and choke are working? Give us the model and serial number off the sticker so we can look it up.

Good news!

Are you following manufacturer's start procedure? Choke on/off as specified? Many do best with prime, then choke on, pull 5 or more times, then 1/2 choke or choke off to start. Good luck.

What did the lines look like when you changed the pump? A leaky vac line to the pump can do this. I would check the flow to and from the pump. I don't know how much you have to disassemble to get the fuel line off the carb...

What was the oil level?

You said the old circuit board/switch did the same thing, gotta be in the wiring.

Is the relay stuck?

I know you didn't do it, but nice spelling of solenoid in the diagram... :)

Check fuel flow as Andrew said. I also recommend the shutoff, though I shut it off after mowing, but don't always run it dry.

It's sounding like a short in the charge circuit. Maybe a damaged wire that shorts to ground? I know you've looked for that, but that's what it sounds like.

I would try removing the fuel gauge, as you said. You may have gotten it going, but it's not necessarily fixed. Clogs at the fuel pickup have a tendency to come back, as the engine runs and draws crud into the pickup. This will also let you flush the tank line from tank to carb. The check...

What about the idler pulley? Also, please supply the model #.

FIrst thing is, we're going to need the engine model #.

What is the model/engine model number? What amperage fuse is blowing?

You may be able to fish out the pickup from the tank, without removing those fittings. There is often a hose from that fitting to the pickup. Look in the tank, and use a pickup tool to fish it out. There's some kind of filter on it you can clean, and there may be a check valve you can also clean.

Looking good!

You're welcome, good luck. Let us know how it goes.

While you're at it, I still don't know for sure what the status is, and have reviewed both threads on this mower. Have you jump started with a good battery? If so, does it run? If not, check fuel system. That's what keeps it from running so much of the time. Pull fuel line at carb, check...

Yes it is.

I don't have a clue what it means. I was hoping for some more help to show up.

It has happened to me also. If choke is on, the spray doesn't get far, and may dissipate before you crank it. I use starting fluid for testing, but don't trust it.

Don't forget to check the oil and smell for gas.

Sure, if it's an old battery. Some of the service manuals are for an engine family. I had a Kohler engine like that where the manual implied there was an acr, but I was told by people who should know, there was none. So, new starter/solenoid last year, how do the connections look? You can...

Where is the spark plug from? I hear there's a lot of clone plugs that aren't very good. Most recommend buying from local auto parts store. You replaced carb, is it running about the right RPM? The governor may need a bit of adjustment to get the throttle right. Are the carb mounting gaskets...

It's slow, but seems to be turning over fine. Did you check if the oil smells like gas, and if the level is right? Will it run at all? I wasn't sure based on your first post. Have you cleaned the battery, solenoid and starter connections?

You replaced the carb, what about fuel filter and lines? Have you checked fuel flow? Fuel lines break down on the inside, so you don't see it. If there's a fuel pump, what about the vacuum line?

How did you check for spark? If you don't have a gap spark tester, I would pull the plug, hook it up, ground it, and crank the engine. If no spark, try unhooking kill wire from coil. Where is the plug from? I hear there are many clone plugs out there that are no good. Buy from local auto...

Looking at the wiring diagram, the 7.5 amp fuse is on the safety circuit. It may be a problem with that switch, but if it isn't, look into the safety switches and wiring. You could have a short in there. If you turn on the key with pressure on the seat, and activate the PTO, does it make a...

Or, are you saying you jump between the 2 big terminals(battery, starter) on the solenoid, it turns over? Which of the two are you doing?

Good news, thanks for the update!

There are reasonably priced tachs that just use a wire you wrap around the plug wire. It's not the most accurate thing, but will get you in the ballpark. Here's the one I have, it's not great, but it's cheap and gives a decent reading...

It's progress anyhow. Double check the fuel lines, if the prime was wrong when you got it, it might not be the only thing... If fresh gas doesn't work, check for spark. Pull the plug, connect it and ground it, and crank the motor. Do it in the shade and see what the spark is like. The light...

If tightening the connections help, you probably need to clean them. Glad to hear you're working. BTW, that's a wild looking machine.

We could use some more information. Model number would help. Also could use some more description of the problem. It the engine not turning over? Have you tried jumping direct from battery to starter? Have you done anything to check the solenoid? Were you doing weeding off the mower, and...

Ok, I reviewed the thread. You've got fuel flow, and engine running, then dying. When you emptied the tank, did you do anything to remove crud from the tank? When it quit running well, did you pull the fuel line and check flow? Crud in the tank can do exactly what you're describing. In one...

Great news, thanks for updating.