z335e will not crank when key is turned

When I went to exchange the switches, I realized the brake switch was mounted in the wrong screw hole. This kept the button from extending far enough to be fully depressed. l adjusted the switch and now the mower continues to run when the handles are pulled in. I was able to jump start the mower and cut 1/2 acre of grass.

So the original problem remains. Turning the ignition to crank does nothing.
 
Progress anyhow. I went back to page 1 and reviewed. Have you verified that the ignition switch turned to start position delivers 12V to the solenoid, and that you have 12V at the solenoid battery side? If the ignition isn't delivering, you could have a safety switch interfering. Check at the switch. When you jump start what are you connecting? Battery to starter, or just jumping solenoid from battery to starter?
 
With the ignition switched turned to crank, there is 12V on the green solenoid wire. The white solenoid wire never has voltage or connection to ground.
It looks like the white wire should get ground through K2. I have ordered a new K2 switch which I anticipate receiving Thursday or Friday.

I check the new 7.5A fuse again and it was blown again. I put another in and turned the key to crank. It was almost dark outside, and I saw small spark in the fuse block next to the 7.5A fuse. I'm not going to mess with it again until the new K2 switch arrives.

Mark, you must have missed my previous explanation of jump starting - - (jumper cables from car battery to mower engine block and starter).
 
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Thanks Doug, I guess I did. We'll see what the new K2 does. Have you tried jumpering at the solenoid? Normally there are 2 large wires at the solenoid, one to battery and the other to starter. Obviously the solenoid connects those 2 when it is given the correct signal from the ignition switch and safety circuits. If you can get the starter to spin by jumping at the solenoid, it tells us the wiring from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter is good. It also tells us that the battery can turn the motor. You've been jumping from car battery, so we don't know if the mower battery has the juice. Charge that battery before you replace K2 and start troubleshooting again.
 
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D0UG said:
z335e will not crank. Tested brake, seat, handle safety switches and all fuses. Replaced starter solenoid and ignition switch but will not crank. The old ignition switch was definitely faulty.

If I pull up blade engagement button, the belt clutch engages when the key is turned. I don't detect 12V at starter solenoid when the key is turned.
Click to expand...
You solved your problem if you don't have 12vdc at small control terminal on the start solenoid it can't be engaged to send power across the solenoid to the starter.
 
I got super busy with work and other home projects so just been jumping it off straight from the battery for the last 2 weeks. This weekend I talked to a friend who works in a small engine shop, and he strongly suspects the new ignition switch is at fault. He said they see that a lot with the aftermarket switches (which this one is from Amazon). Every time I turn it to the crank position, the 7.5A fuse blows. So I ordered another new switch and will give it try probably next Monday. I hope that is the problem. It sounds reasonable.
 
Looking at the wiring diagram, the 7.5 amp fuse is on the safety circuit. It may be a problem with that switch, but if it isn't, look into the safety switches and wiring. You could have a short in there. If you turn on the key with pressure on the seat, and activate the PTO, does it make a noise? You probably need to replace that 7.5 fuse to test.
 
So installed the new switch, turned it to crank, and blew the fuse. Good grief. I noticed that if I disconnect the small wires from the control terminals of the starter solenoid, the fuse does not blow. I interned to put the old solenoid back on the mower and try that. Perhaps the solenoid is shorted inside.
 
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