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Kawasaki used the 0743 at one point as an attempt to use the same part across all engine models. They quickly found out that this does not work the best. The 0743 is the number one coil for the 852 and 999cc series engines. The coils listed above are the service numbers for the 603 and 726cc models.

The issue is likely not using OEM parts. You might have saved a few bucks, but it has cost you a lot of time. The Kawasaki replacement coil part number is either 21171-0740 or 21171-0809 (new, superseded number). Make sure the air gap is set correctly. Coils will get very hot with heat soak from...

With all due respect, you need to brush up on your oil knowledge. Things have changed.

I would love to see the science behind that.

It is advertised to cut oil consumption in half.

Kawasaki does not recommend any particular oil. That is why there are choices. Kawasaki does suggest 10W40 over SAE30 in the vertical twins for example. 20W50 in the hotter climates for better oil control. The new Pro50 is highly recommended. There is no better oil technology available than this...

Yes, most Kawasaki engines will use around 15-20ccs per hour.

The oil capacity with a filter change is 2.4 qts. You cannot fully drain the crankcase when doing an oil change so check it after 2 qts. You’re likely fine. The updated dipstick just increases the margin of error for those that do not check their oil level regularly.

You likely need to reset the static governor adjustment.

The only difference is the shape. One is short and fat, the other is tall and skinny. Either will work on your 852cc block. It depends on if the tall one would interfere with something on the mower side. The skinny/tall fits all Kawasaki engines. The short/fat fits FR, FS, FT and FX only.

The oil is API SL rated. This puts it at between 900 and 1200 ppm.

Kawasaki has never use RTV. TB1207B is what the factory used. Nice try though.

Don't be too hard on yourself. You are no difference that most mower owners. That is why Kawasaki changed their owners manuals to changing oil annually. Trying to increase the margin of error. But, owners still ignore this as well. At least you own your error, great job for that. Many owners and...

Useless? That makes zero sense. Kawasaki’s minimum compression spec is with the ACR taken into consideration.

It is likely FR691VAS29R for the model code if it is a 2015 build.

There is nothing wrong with the compression. It is above the minimum requirement. There are many things it could be but a replacement engine it is not. Most mechanics these days only know how to replace. They haven’t been taught to test.

100% agree with Mr @Rivets. I think you are being taken for a ride. Go elsewhere.

I’m sure it is an FR model, 726cc. Don’t know if it is an FR651, 691 or 730. I would need the number stamped in the top of the carburetor. It will be a five digit starting with a 4, (4xxxx). Please provide this number and if it also has the flip up air filter cover. (FR)

That is a vent. It needs to be there. Carburetors of that era are externally vented.

It is really very simple and inexpensive to remove the plugs and clean the transition ports correctly. If you need help reinstalling the welcg plugs correctly, just ask.

You likely have a fuel transition issue going from idle to load. (Full throttle with no load is high idle.) The carburetor may need to be cleaned properly with the welch plugs removed to clean the transition ports. Don't purchase a new carburetor. If you can't do a proper cleaning, then find a...

Minimum compression for this engine is 65 psi. The 90 psi you mentioned is more normal. The 165 would be high. Kawasaki does not have a spec for what compression is “suppose be”. If you are above 65 psi, the engine should start and run.

The rocker bracket bolt coming loose on the 726cc block is a known issue. The proper torque spec of the rocker bolt is 15 ft-lb but Loctite works too.

Engaging the PTO putting that much load on the engine would indicate it is not firing both cylinders efficiently. If spark has been confirmed, this would indicate either a valve sticking when the engine gets hot, or possibly a loose valve seat. The nut on the rocker arm coming loose is the...

Looking at the carburetor, #1 is the LH side. The one closest to the flwheel.

Well done @Auto Doc's . The only point I would disagree is on 6 month fuel. After 30 days, the fuel can become suspect.

My advice would be to get some good diagnostic experience or hire someone that already has diagnostic skills as opposed to throwing good money at guessing.

Kawasaki has this part as well. It may work on the old FH engines.

You will need to order only a replacement choke shaft. The Kawasaki part number is 16041-0028

My thought is that there may be a hole in the top of the air filter due to whatever has been spilled on it. Through the hole, it ingested a bunch of dust, which I doubt came from sitting all winter. Likely another all-too-common case of not treating a lawnmower with any respect. People need to...

Like @MParr wrote, or the had gasket was blown, likely due to cylinder overheating. There may be a moved valve guide in the cylinder head or the piston rings have lost their tension and oil is blowing by them.

The engines are run at Kawasaki. Check valve operation, valve lash, etc. If you spray starting fluid in the cylinder holes, will it pop off on that, I assume?

Just my opinion, there is nothing wrong with the filter. The issue is that someone buys a new filter, mows in dusty/dirty conditions, and never checks it. In their minds, they may be thinking, "I just replaced the filter." A small filter like this, and the one on my Toro 22" push mower, can...

@slomo, you are absolutely correct on the oiling. Oil attracts dirt. If the air filter was intended to have oil, it would have come that way from the factory, which it did not. There is no reason to add silicone to the sealing surface. Again, it is not that way from the engine manufacturer or...

The idle port adjustment, with the limiter, is not intended to "tune" a carburetor. Its intent is for EPA emission adjustment. Which isn't much these days.

It would have to be a Kawasaki Engines dealer. Kawasaki Engines dealers will not have parts listings on engines supplied to John Deere. Kawasaki Engines dealer locator is located here https://www.kawasaki.com/dealerlocatorpower/

You get what you pay for. If your engine is still under warranty, it is best to use genuine parts. The issue isn't so much where the maintenance items come from; it is performing the maintenance to begin with. Good job on that. Many don't until it's too late.

I am positive. Although I am not convinced that you need a whole carburetor unless the one you have is not serviceable. Too many people waste money on replacing carburetors because they just don't understand them. I would order a float valve. Then use toothpaste or a very mild rubbing compound...

The correct carburetor for a CS spec was 15001-2720 which subbed a couple of times. The last part number that was 15001-2936. John Deere used to have some carburetor kits. Service parts like a float valve or gaskets would likely still be available. Those old FB’s and FC models were well built...

What you are referring to is likely the atmospheric vent. If fuel is coming out of the vent, then the float valve has an issue.

Not sure about Wix flow rate. Kawasaki knows what they are doing. If you’ve made it to the end of the warranty, you’re doing better maintenance than most. Good job for that. Either filter will be fine. Following the proper service intervals is the key!

Hello, Kawasaki, as any company, has specifications for a reason. If the engine is out of the factory warranty, use what you want. In warranty, I would stick with OEM parts. A human hair measures between 50-100 microns. So, is filtering down from 21 to 28 microns going to extend the life of the...

@cmosier1 What brand and model of engine do you have?

Low oil cannot shut down an engine that is carrying an operator.

The FR air filtration is fine for what is was designed for. Under the hood of a tractor or mowing grass not dirt. The problem is education on proper maintenance. Or buying the wrong mower for what it is being used for.

The top ring is barrel faced, the second is tapered. The wider part of the taper goes up. The paint stripe should be to the right of the gap. The paint color is irrelevant.

Learn voltage drop, it will be your best friend.

👍🏻👍🏻 Awesome! Everyone print @7394 post and attach it to your mower as a reminder every time you use it!!

20% with 100psi of air put into the cylinder.

I believe you are spot on, @StarTech . The part @Cfs received is not a Kawasaki part. I’ve never known Kawasaki to use ziploc bags.