Steering Drag Link and Charging System Question

[pugaltitude]

You want to check for amps coming from the wire with the diode and voltage with the other wire.
Batteries charge with DC amps.
Think electricity like a river. Volts are the water flowing. Amps is the power pushing the water down river.
Yes you need flow (volts) but you also need the power (amps).
If you do this test it kills 2 birds with one stone.
Does your Multimeter have DC Amp scale?
If so then move red multimeter wire to the 10 amp DC slot.
Disconnect white connector. Insert multimeter red probe to wire with diode.
Attach other probe to battery positive.
Turn dial to DC amp setting on multimeter. Start engine and set rpm to 3600.
You should have amps between 2 - 4 amps DC.
If not then check fuse on multimeter or diode is blown which do diode test.

 

[Berniebac]

Thanks Pugaltitude for describing that test. I hooked my meter as you suggested and I am getting about 2.0 amps out of the red connector. My meter does not have alligator clips on it, just the probe/needle style tip so making good contact was difficult. The readings fluctuated from 1.99 to 2.06.

From my research online I found that a red wire from under the flywheel to a red connector was a 2 to 4 amp system. Since I am getting 2 amps is it safe to assume that the battery is being maintained? Also, since I am getting 2 amps the diode must be good, isn't it, as current is passing thru it?

 

[EngineMan]

Try and drop the voltage down by connecting 12 volt load lamp across battery terminals. When battery voltage is below 13.5 volts, note voltage. start engine and run at 3600 R.P.M you should get a higher reading. you are getting somewhere now, 2Amp's are better then NO Amps...!

 

[Berniebac]

Thanks for your help too Engineman. I don't have a load lamp, not sure what that is but I suppose I could drive the tractor and see if the voltage on the battery continues to drop as a means to test it. Oh wait, it has headlights on it. Could I drain the battery down a little with them and then see if it picks the voltage back up after running for a while?

Kind of amazing that 2 amps of output could keep it going with the headlights on. You would think they would drain the battery.

 

[EngineMan]

If you have lights on tractor or ride on, put them on for a few minutes ( a load just means that) anything just to drop the volts down.

(Kind of amazing that 2 amps of output could keep it going with the headlights on)

Remember some have a (dual circuit) one circuit for lights, and the other for the charging..!

run the battery down without the engine running.....if I need to say it.

 

[pugaltitude]

Thanks Pugaltitude for describing that test. I hooked my meter as you suggested and I am getting about 2.0 amps out of the red connector. My meter does not have alligator clips on it, just the probe/needle style tip so making good contact was difficult. The readings fluctuated from 1.99 to 2.06.

From my research online I found that a red wire from under the flywheel to a red connector was a 2 to 4 amp system. Since I am getting 2 amps is it safe to assume that the battery is being maintained? Also, since I am getting 2 amps the diode must be good, isn't it, as current is passing thru it?

Yes the alternator is charging. Now you need to check the wire on the other side of the connecter and make sure its going where its supposed to and that the wire is not faulty.
The white wire from the connector is the AC volts which will run the head lamps and will not affect the battery in any way as it go's from alt straight to headlamp.
Or the headlamps use power from the DC side which would run your battery down.

 

[Berniebac]

Sorry for the delay in getting back on this. I was away for a few days. Too check the wire on the white connector side I should be able to do some sort of continuity check to verify that the wire is good. If I trace it back to the ignition I should be able to put my meter test lead on one end and the other lead on the white connector. If it reads as good it should be charging. Correct?

 

[pugaltitude]

Sorry for the delay in getting back on this. I was away for a few days. Too check the wire on the white connector side I should be able to do some sort of continuity check to verify that the wire is good. If I trace it back to the ignition I should be able to put my meter test lead on one end and the other lead on the white connector. If it reads as good it should be charging. Correct?

Yes you want to check continuity in the wire(s).