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I was driving my tractor testing the brake adjustment that I had just completed when the main steering drag link broke. The ball popped out of the joint. See attached pictures. Is there a way to repair this or do I have to find a new one? Where would I look for a new one for a 30 year old tractor?

Also, I just installed a new battery and thought I would check the charging system. With the engine idling, or revved to half throttle all I get on my meter is 12.64 Volts. I thought I read where it should be above 13 Volts. Is that correct or will I be OK at 12.64?

Thanks

You will have to get a new drag link. the ball joint is not replaceable on that unit. What is the voltage when the mower is just sitting while shut off. compare that number to what you are getting while running. If the same or lower, then you have a charging problem. The number seems low but as long as the battery doesn't go dead, and won't start the mower, then there is probably not a problem.

Thanks, I will check the voltage tomorrow. Too bad for my drag link. I am worried about getting a new one given the age of the tractor. Not sure of a local supplier either. Will see if I can find one though.

I checked my voltage with the mower not running and I got 12.61 volts. It looks as if it is not charging. My manual and parts diagram do not provide any details on the charging system. Any advice on how to repair it? It is a Briggs 8 hp Mod 191707 Type 5827-01 Code 82091011. Thanks.

I can't tell from the IPL which stator that you have on your engine. Can you give a description of the wires that are coming out of the stator.

Bernie, I have mentioned in a few post that there is a way to repair the drag link if you have access to a weldor. Re-insert the ball back into the hole and get a flat washer the will fit on the stud. You will need to cut a slot out of the washer so it will slip between the ball and the stud while covering the hole now all you need so is weld, braze or maybe silver solder the washer in place. This fix wll last indefinitely.

All I can see is one red wire coming out that has a white connector on it and that leads to the ignition switch. It seems to me that someone has added some heat shrink tube to the engine side of that connector and I'd almost swear the wire is broken at the end of the heat shrink. May have been an attempt at a fix in the past.

fastback said:

Bernie, I have mentioned in a few post that there is a way to repair the drag link if you have access to a weldor. Re-insert the ball back into the hole and get a flat washer the will fit on the stud. You will need to cut a slot out of the washer so it will slip between the ball and the stud while covering the hole now all you need so is weld, braze or maybe silver solder the washer in place. This fix will last indefinitely.

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This is what I have done on many over the year's, apart from that I just cut the flat washer in half and then leaving about a 1mm around the stud (for movement) and then weld it to the bar...! well tag it.
Don't forget to put some grease on the bull after fitting.
Re Charging System put a test to the stator coil, and then have a look at the regulator.

The 140000, 170000, and 190000 had a in line fuse in the alternator assembly have a look for that.

Thanks for the additional posts in response to my questions. I don't have a welder, but do have a friend who might do it for me. I will take the solution to him. I will also look for a fuse, would it be under the fly wheel or accessible outside the engine. There is a white coupler on a wire coming out of the engine but I think that holds a diode or rectifier or something like that. I'll snoop around a little this morning to see what I can see.

Berniebac said:

All I can see is one red wire coming out that has a white connector on it and that leads to the ignition switch. It seems to me that someone has added some heat shrink tube to the engine side of that connector and I'd almost swear the wire is broken at the end of the heat shrink. May have been an attempt at a fix in the past.

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Does the heat shrink tubing hav a bump in it. If the bump is missing I would bet that someone removed the diode, which would explain why it is not charging.

ILENGINE; I just checked that wire and it is a red wire coming from the engine with a red connector. It has a red connector on the engine side that joins to a white connector on the wire leading to the ignition. Hope this helps to ID the correct part.

The fuse is also on the charge side, so if that is blown or missing it will not charge, if you find that the fuse has gone (fuse blown) check if battery polarity is correct. Negative (-) side of battery should be grounded to engine or frame; positive (+) side of battery to alternator output lead.
If reversed, correct and put in a new fuse.
You should be able to see the fuse from the outside, near the stator.

Ilengine, there is a small bump under the heat shrink.

Engineman, polarity is correct. The only fuse I can see is one on a wire going to the ignition and it looks good.

Any idea what the output from the engine to the diode should be, or what it should be out of the diode?

This is from B&S
Battery Not Charging

* Engine RPM too low
* Inline fuse "blown" (if equipped)
* Defective battery
* Loose, pinched, or corroded battery ground leads
* Loose, pinched, or corroded battery charge leads
* Open, shorted, or grounded wires between output connector and battery
* Defective diode (open or shorted)
* Defective or improperly grounded regulator-rectifier
* Diode installed incorrectly (reversed)
* Damaged battery (shorted battery cells)
* Excessive current draw from accessories
* Damaged alternator magnets
* Defective stator
:licking:

Well there are a few things there, but brand new battery connected correctly. I will take a look at the others on the list and see if I can track any thing down. Would like to know what output to expect as I might be getting the correct amount. Info online says may only be 2 to 4 amps and may only be enough to maintain battery so just a trickle and I was getting 12.64 volts.

Did you find the isolation diode...? (used on most 7amp alternators)
Testing alternator output
Install ammeter in series with charging lead, (that's the one with diode or fuse in line) start engine, ammeter should indicate charge.
If ammeter shows no charge, and the if rectifier has been tested, look for loose connections, broken or frayed wires, etc. If there is no visible fault, replace stator and re-test alternator output.
Testing isolation diode
Unplug cap from fuse-holder and connect small test lamp between tip of white wire and battery negative terminal, lamp should not light. If lamp lights, isolation diode is defective. Now disconnect test lamp and check continuity from the tip of the white diode lead to tip of red diode lead with multimeter. The meter should show continuity in one direction and not the other - reverse leads to check this, if indication is incorrect, diode is defective and must be replaced.:licking:

Berniebac said:

Well there are a few things there, but brand new battery connected correctly. I will take a look at the others on the list and see if I can track any thing down. Would like to know what output to expect as I might be getting the correct amount. Info online says may only be 2 to 4 amps and may only be enough to maintain battery so just a trickle and I was getting 12.64 volts.

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Are you saying that you are getting (volts) out from the charging system...?

At 3600 R.P.M A voltmeter reading of 14 volts or above indicates alternator is functioning.

EngineMan said:

Are you saying that you are getting (volts) out from the charging system...?

At 3600 R.P.M A voltmeter reading of 14 volts or above indicates alternator is functioning.

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No, I was testing voltage at the battery and got 12.64 at the + and - posts on the battery. This was with the engine running. I will test the lead coming out of the connector and see what I get there. Should it not be more voltage than at the battery? to indicate that it is charging?

Yes that is so, battery voltage should be around 13.8 Volts, when the engine is run at 3600 R.P.M voltage should not be above 14.7 volts, if so regulator-rectifier assembly is defective and must be replaced.

You want to check for amps coming from the wire with the diode and voltage with the other wire.
Batteries charge with DC amps.
Think electricity like a river. Volts are the water flowing. Amps is the power pushing the water down river.
Yes you need flow (volts) but you also need the power (amps).
If you do this test it kills 2 birds with one stone.
Does your Multimeter have DC Amp scale?
If so then move red multimeter wire to the 10 amp DC slot.
Disconnect white connector. Insert multimeter red probe to wire with diode.
Attach other probe to battery positive.
Turn dial to DC amp setting on multimeter. Start engine and set rpm to 3600.
You should have amps between 2 - 4 amps DC.
If not then check fuse on multimeter or diode is blown which do diode test.

Thanks Pugaltitude for describing that test. I hooked my meter as you suggested and I am getting about 2.0 amps out of the red connector. My meter does not have alligator clips on it, just the probe/needle style tip so making good contact was difficult. The readings fluctuated from 1.99 to 2.06.

From my research online I found that a red wire from under the flywheel to a red connector was a 2 to 4 amp system. Since I am getting 2 amps is it safe to assume that the battery is being maintained? Also, since I am getting 2 amps the diode must be good, isn't it, as current is passing thru it?

Try and drop the voltage down by connecting 12 volt load lamp across battery terminals. When battery voltage is below 13.5 volts, note voltage. start engine and run at 3600 R.P.M you should get a higher reading. you are getting somewhere now, 2Amp's are better then NO Amps...!

Thanks for your help too Engineman. I don't have a load lamp, not sure what that is but I suppose I could drive the tractor and see if the voltage on the battery continues to drop as a means to test it. Oh wait, it has headlights on it. Could I drain the battery down a little with them and then see if it picks the voltage back up after running for a while?

Kind of amazing that 2 amps of output could keep it going with the headlights on. You would think they would drain the battery.

If you have lights on tractor or ride on, put them on for a few minutes ( a load just means that) anything just to drop the volts down.

(Kind of amazing that 2 amps of output could keep it going with the headlights on)

Remember some have a (dual circuit) one circuit for lights, and the other for the charging..!

run the battery down without the engine running.....if I need to say it.

Berniebac said:

Thanks Pugaltitude for describing that test. I hooked my meter as you suggested and I am getting about 2.0 amps out of the red connector. My meter does not have alligator clips on it, just the probe/needle style tip so making good contact was difficult. The readings fluctuated from 1.99 to 2.06.

From my research online I found that a red wire from under the flywheel to a red connector was a 2 to 4 amp system. Since I am getting 2 amps is it safe to assume that the battery is being maintained? Also, since I am getting 2 amps the diode must be good, isn't it, as current is passing thru it?

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Yes the alternator is charging. Now you need to check the wire on the other side of the connecter and make sure its going where its supposed to and that the wire is not faulty.
The white wire from the connector is the AC volts which will run the head lamps and will not affect the battery in any way as it go's from alt straight to headlamp.
Or the headlamps use power from the DC side which would run your battery down.

Sorry for the delay in getting back on this. I was away for a few days. Too check the wire on the white connector side I should be able to do some sort of continuity check to verify that the wire is good. If I trace it back to the ignition I should be able to put my meter test lead on one end and the other lead on the white connector. If it reads as good it should be charging. Correct?

Berniebac said:

Sorry for the delay in getting back on this. I was away for a few days. Too check the wire on the white connector side I should be able to do some sort of continuity check to verify that the wire is good. If I trace it back to the ignition I should be able to put my meter test lead on one end and the other lead on the white connector. If it reads as good it should be charging. Correct?

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Yes you want to check continuity in the wire(s).