Steering Drag Link and Charging System Question

[ILENGINE]

All I can see is one red wire coming out that has a white connector on it and that leads to the ignition switch. It seems to me that someone has added some heat shrink tube to the engine side of that connector and I'd almost swear the wire is broken at the end of the heat shrink. May have been an attempt at a fix in the past.

Does the heat shrink tubing hav a bump in it. If the bump is missing I would bet that someone removed the diode, which would explain why it is not charging.

 

[Berniebac]

ILENGINE; I just checked that wire and it is a red wire coming from the engine with a red connector. It has a red connector on the engine side that joins to a white connector on the wire leading to the ignition. Hope this helps to ID the correct part.

 

[EngineMan]

The fuse is also on the charge side, so if that is blown or missing it will not charge, if you find that the fuse has gone (fuse blown) check if battery polarity is correct. Negative (-) side of battery should be grounded to engine or frame; positive (+) side of battery to alternator output lead.
If reversed, correct and put in a new fuse.
You should be able to see the fuse from the outside, near the stator.

 

[Berniebac]

Ilengine, there is a small bump under the heat shrink.

Engineman, polarity is correct. The only fuse I can see is one on a wire going to the ignition and it looks good.

Any idea what the output from the engine to the diode should be, or what it should be out of the diode?

 

[EngineMan]

This is from B&S
Battery Not Charging

* Engine RPM too low
* Inline fuse "blown" (if equipped)
* Defective battery
* Loose, pinched, or corroded battery ground leads
* Loose, pinched, or corroded battery charge leads
* Open, shorted, or grounded wires between output connector and battery
* Defective diode (open or shorted)
* Defective or improperly grounded regulator-rectifier
* Diode installed incorrectly (reversed)
* Damaged battery (shorted battery cells)
* Excessive current draw from accessories
* Damaged alternator magnets
* Defective stator
:licking:

 

[Berniebac]

Well there are a few things there, but brand new battery connected correctly. I will take a look at the others on the list and see if I can track any thing down. Would like to know what output to expect as I might be getting the correct amount. Info online says may only be 2 to 4 amps and may only be enough to maintain battery so just a trickle and I was getting 12.64 volts.

 

[EngineMan]

Did you find the isolation diode...? (used on most 7amp alternators)
Testing alternator output
Install ammeter in series with charging lead, (that's the one with diode or fuse in line) start engine, ammeter should indicate charge.
If ammeter shows no charge, and the if rectifier has been tested, look for loose connections, broken or frayed wires, etc. If there is no visible fault, replace stator and re-test alternator output.
Testing isolation diode
Unplug cap from fuse-holder and connect small test lamp between tip of white wire and battery negative terminal, lamp should not light. If lamp lights, isolation diode is defective. Now disconnect test lamp and check continuity from the tip of the white diode lead to tip of red diode lead with multimeter. The meter should show continuity in one direction and not the other - reverse leads to check this, if indication is incorrect, diode is defective and must be replaced.:licking:

 

[EngineMan]

Well there are a few things there, but brand new battery connected correctly. I will take a look at the others on the list and see if I can track any thing down. Would like to know what output to expect as I might be getting the correct amount. Info online says may only be 2 to 4 amps and may only be enough to maintain battery so just a trickle and I was getting 12.64 volts.

Are you saying that you are getting (volts) out from the charging system...?

At 3600 R.P.M A voltmeter reading of 14 volts or above indicates alternator is functioning.

 

[Berniebac]

Are you saying that you are getting (volts) out from the charging system...?

At 3600 R.P.M A voltmeter reading of 14 volts or above indicates alternator is functioning.

No, I was testing voltage at the battery and got 12.64 at the + and - posts on the battery. This was with the engine running. I will test the lead coming out of the connector and see what I get there. Should it not be more voltage than at the battery? to indicate that it is charging?

 

[EngineMan]

Yes that is so, battery voltage should be around 13.8 Volts, when the engine is run at 3600 R.P.M voltage should not be above 14.7 volts, if so regulator-rectifier assembly is defective and must be replaced.