Thanks for the reply. I have a similar setup. I only swapped the carb. There were two linkage rods. One for the choke and other for throttle. They went back on the same way they came off. For what ever reason the governor arm just holds the throttle linkage wide open.I had a similar issue when I was replacing the carb on my 20hp Briggs and Stratton engine last summer. My issue was the throttle linkage was installed incorrectly at the choke lever. Assuming that your tractor has only a throttle/choke lever, there's 2 holes to attach the throttle cable to. I used the wrong one, which made it very difficult to start (I had to use starting fluid), and once it got running, it was at high idle, with no control. I should have taken a picture of the setup prior to changing out the carbs.
Yeah they are right. You think I want to have you constantly flap your gums. I'm not looking for a debate, I'm looking for a solution to my problem. Instead of being part of the solution, you have become part of the problem. Do me a favor? Crawl back into whatever grease hole you came out of and let someone else take the turn. Beat it will ya!It’s been pointed out to me, by other service techs, that I’m wasting my time on this guy. He’s beyond help, so I’m going to stop posting, even if he continues to bad mouth me like someone trying to save face. Thank you to the techs who opened my eyes. Bye, Bye, Bye.
No I have the right carb. It's seems to be the governor or governor adjustment.. Drilling down with that kind of stuff isn't in my wheelhouse. Figure I would get some feedback from this forum. Even Startech stated that some carbs require linkage adjustments after installation. I thought it would be a one and done kind of thingCould it be the wrong carb? If I remember correctly, there were 2 carbs listed, 1 for a manual choke and 1 for the automatic choke.
I have the same model engine. It took me a while to figure it out, as the butterflies were staying open, even when it was cool. I thought I had it set up correctly, but I was wrong. The new carb I got just wouldn't work properly, so I cleaned up the old one inside and out, and reinstalled it. It idles better and starts quicker. I contacted the seller, who said it was the correct part number. Once I looked closely at the choke lever I could see the difference. I could modify the new carb by using the choke lever and spring from the old carb, but it wasn't an issue once I got the old carb cleaned and reinstalled. I kept the other carb in case I need a new one in the future. All I will need to do is switch the choke lever and spring.No I have the right carb. It's seems to be the governor or governor adjustment.. Drilling down with that kind of stuff isn't in my wheelhouse. Figure I would get some feedback from this forum. Even Startech stated that some carbs require linkage adjustments after installation. I thought it would be a one and done kind of thing
I will definitely do that. Very much appreciate your feedback. It may be exactly what you are saying. Like the saying measure twice cut once. I may have overlooked something.I have the same model engine. It took me a while to figure it out, as the butterflies were staying open, even when it was cool. I thought I had it set up correctly, but I was wrong. The new carb I got just wouldn't work properly, so I cleaned up the old one inside and out, and reinstalled it. It idles better and starts quicker. I contacted the seller, who said it was the correct part number. Once I looked closely at the choke lever I could see the difference. I could modify the new carb by using the choke lever and spring from the old carb, but it wasn't an issue once I got the old carb cleaned and reinstalled. I kept the other carb in case I need a new one in the future. All I will need to do is switch the choke lever and spring.
Maybe you should compare the carbs. It's what helped me to figure it out. Just look at the carb choke levers and see if they are identical.