Starter question

PTmowerMech

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Thanks for everyone's help. Gonna order just the solenoid.
This thing was scary, til I got it all apart and started cleaning it up and seeing how it all works.

I suppose the solenoid plunger wasn't coming down, so that was not pushing the gear upwards.
 

StarTech

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Did you even bother to try what I suggested? Hate to see you get a new solenoid to only have the same problem just because a voltage drop.
 

Hammermechanicman

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If the solenoid pulls in but the starter doesn't spin or spins slow you can usually disassemble the solenoid contacts and turn the terminals 180 degrees and flip the contact disc over. If you replace brushes sand and crocus cloth the commutator and undercut the insulators. Unless someone fried the windings you can usually fix most starters.
 

PTmowerMech

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If the solenoid pulls in but the starter doesn't spin or spins slow you can usually disassemble the solenoid contacts and turn the terminals 180 degrees and flip the contact disc over. If you replace brushes sand and crocus cloth the commutator and undercut the insulators. Unless someone fried the windings you can usually fix most starters.

The gear spins and spins fast.
But that's some good info. I've never been inside a solenoid before.
 

PTmowerMech

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Did you even bother to try what I suggested? Hate to see you get a new solenoid to only have the same problem just because a voltage drop.

No, I didn't quite understand what you meant at first. I will tomorrow. I haven't ordered anything yet.
 

StarTech

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I didn't think so. Do i need to try to explain it better?

It may not be the problem but it just sounds like there is not voltage and current to fully retract the solenoid. This a common problem JD had with the solenoid shift starters on their equipment due the long runs of wire in the trigger circuit. Since JD primarily only used Kawasaki and Kohler engines, those are only ones that I have seen the problem on but it is possible with any engine with a solenoid shift starter. JD actually sells a kit for this but it is easily by the tech once they understand what JD does with the kit at a much lower price.

Wire does have resistance as low as it is, it still becomes a problem on long runs; unless, a larger size is used. This is especially true at the currents involved.

Now the disc the fellows are talking about only affects the main starter motor and has nothing to with the solenoid retracting; unless, it get welded to the contacts then the starter motor would constant spin. Yes I have seen them burned that why they use copper as it doesn't welds easily especially to it self. I have seen a few remote solenoids contacts to be welded from excessive current and the starter operated basically the same as the remote solenoids except it also engages the starter bendix.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Testing the starter is pretty easy.
Remove the starter from unit
Get a pair of jumper cables and battery
Connect batt - to starter case
Connect batt+ to the top large terminal on starter. If starter spins connected to wrong terminal
Connect jumper between small terminal and large terminal the batt is connected to. Solenoid should engage and the srarter spin. Be careful starter will try to jump off the bench.
If solenoid does not pull in bad coil or bound up linkage.
If solenoid pulls in but starter does not spin bad contacts in solenoid.
Doesn't check starter capacity, just operation.
If it passes reinstall starter and see if you get ~12V at the trigger wire when you turn key to start then do a voltage drop test at the trigger terminal.
Tell us what happens
 

PTmowerMech

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Ok, I got it.
Neg- to starter casing (ground)
Pos + to big post, gear come up only about 1/8th but spins like it's suppose to.
Move the pos+ to the small connection, and gear comes all the way up, but barely spins.
 

Hammermechanicman

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You have to connect the batt+ to the top big terminal and leave it there. Use a jumper from that terminal(batt+) to the small terminal to test it. Don't move the the large cable from the batt off the top terminal of the solenoid.
The jumper supplies 12v to the solenoid coil to engage the solenoid. At the back of the solenoid is a disc that contacts both large terminals to supply power to the motor. You don't connect anything to the bottom large terminal on the solenoid.
 

PTmowerMech

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Ok, that worked. Starter tested good that way. Thank you guys.
Looks like i'm going to be testing safety switches next. Turn the key on this JD, and get nothing.
 
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