Blades Major trouble removing blades

Rivets

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What a person does on their personal equipment is a lot different than a mechanic or business owner will do. Business people and mechanics have to abide by a different set of rules. We must always look to the safety of the customer when ever we work on a unit, if we take short cuts or use the wrong parts or materials, we can get in trouble. CYA. This doesn't mean that certain ways are wrong, but we can't take any chances.

There are many types of rust dissolvers, I use a product called Yield, and a home brew of Anti-freeze and kerosene.
 

rfl

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Haul it to someplace that has a high torque impact gun. You will never break them loose without it. I had the same problem on my Bad Boy. There is no stop on the blade to keep them from getting tighter and tighter as they rotate. I tried to use my impact on them with no luck. I took the mower to the shop I purchased it from and they put their impact on it and spun them right off. Before that, I had done everything in my power to break them free incluiding a six foot cheater bar on a 3/4 drive socket set with a reducer to no avail. My torque gun only went to 450 ft. lbs. but I put way more force on them than that. I even beat on the pry bar with a 20lb hammer. There is something about that quick hammering effect of a torque gun with high impact values that will spin them off. Try it before you go to the trouble to replace the spindles. They will need a large impact gun.
 

motoman

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Haul it to someplace that has a high torque impact gun. You will never break them loose without it. I had the same problem on my Bad Boy. There is no stop on the blade to keep them from getting tighter and tighter as they rotate. I tried to use my impact on them with no luck. I took the mower to the shop I purchased it from and they put their impact on it and spun them right off. Before that, I had done everything in my power to break them free incluiding a six foot cheater bar on a 3/4 drive socket set with a reducer to no avail. My torque gun only went to 450 ft. lbs. but I put way more force on them than that. I even beat on the pry bar with a 20lb hammer. There is something about that quick hammering effect of a torque gun with high impact values that will spin them off. Try it before you go to the trouble to replace the spindles. They will need a large impact gun.

I agree and not all impact guns are as advertised . For years the H-Frt "580 ft lb" gun just did not cut it. Once I talked about it to a clerk in the local store. To my amazement he told me to bring it in after ?10 yrs? and no receipt. I got $60 credit against their "earthquake" model which is smaller and better. It did work in loosening corroded A arm bolts, but I doubt it would touch the 1-1/8 nuts you guys described. Why would cub cadet not index their blades in some manner?? (like the star on some)
 

motoman

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Huh, i wonder if it allows the bolt to tighten more? my uncle that has been a mechanic for god knows how long has said to always put never seize on any nut/bolt you take out of something. i would have never thought that it would do that.

I will search my archives for published data on lubricants and torque and publish it for consumption and comment on this forum.
 

motoman

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I don't think so. I just had this problem on a machine that I changed blades on mid summer and applied never seize. Tried to change them a few weeks later and couldn't get one bolt off. I solved it with a 300 lb co-worker pulling on the end of a 8' pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar. This was the Jacobsen in my avatar.

What you may have done is over torqued due to the lubricant. If you look at the bolt carefully you may see "necking" or the threads (tpi) larger in some areas. Such a fastenerr is work hardened and may break if reused. IMO

I guess since the "bolt" is the spindle this is where the threads should be inspected. The huge nut likewise.
 
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Ric

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Haul it to someplace that has a high torque impact gun. You will never break them loose without it. I had the same problem on my Bad Boy. There is no stop on the blade to keep them from getting tighter and tighter as they rotate. I tried to use my impact on them with no luck. I took the mower to the shop I purchased it from and they put their impact on it and spun them right off. Before that, I had done everything in my power to break them free incluiding a six foot cheater bar on a 3/4 drive socket set with a reducer to no avail. My torque gun only went to 450 ft. lbs. but I put way more force on them than that. I even beat on the pry bar with a 20lb hammer. There is something about that quick hammering effect of a torque gun with high impact values that will spin them off. Try it before you go to the trouble to replace the spindles. They will need a large impact gun.

If you are going to use an Impact Driver with an 1 1/8 socket to remove blade nuts or bolts you should be looking at no less than 600 ft.lbs. of torque. If you're thinking of buying an Impact Driver I'd suggest the Ingersoll Rand.
 

snapsstorer

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just a simple question here. is there a nut on top of the spindle(where the drive pulley is)? if so it may have the same type spindle as a snapper. i had to replace the blades on his, and to remove the blades, you have to put a wrench on the nut on the drive pulley side and try loosening the bolt on the bottom as that the bolt is considered the spindle shaft for it. :confused3: just wondering :confused:
 

motoman

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If you are going to use an Impact Driver with an 1 1/8 socket to remove blade nuts or bolts you should be looking at no less than 600 ft.lbs. of torque. If you're thinking of buying an Impact Driver I'd suggest the Ingersoll Rand.

Ric has the key to this problem. In copying torque charts for the forum (threads, lube, torques-current) I note that a 1-1/8" nut in grade 5 takes 794 ft lbs to tighten. BREAKING TORQUE IS BEYOND THE CAPABILITY OF THE BEST RED NECK BREAKER BAR UNLESS IT IS A 10ft 4x4? This is heavy equipment tool capability? Again...why would a mfg set up such an obstacle to the poor home
gardener?:confused2: rfi also saw this clearly.
 
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I have experienced this problem before. I removed the belt pulley from the top and slid the spindle down thru the mandrel. I was then able to heat the blade bolt enough to break it loose without any damage to the seals in the mandrel. Put it all back together and it's still working a year later.
 
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