Z445 Fuel Solenoid and Battery Draw

[EastonRob]

I imagine the kit was generic. Nothing "seems" to be broken from a functionality standpoint, other than the issue I'm having now.

I do have the old block, but unfortunately I mangled the prongs in question trying to manhandle them out before I figured out how to remove them.

 

[Rivets]

I’ve reread this post four more times and a couple of things caught my eye, so I’ve got a few more questions. How many red wires were attached to the old fuse block?
How many fuses were in the old fuse block?
Have you been able to trace where each of the yellow wires go?
Am I correct with this assumption? You can start the engine and everything operates as it should?
I‘m now thinking that both of those wiring diagrams are not correct for your unit and causing our troubleshooting problems. I sure wish I was standing next to you, as electrical troubleshooting is hard enough if it’s in front of you. Even worse when you’re a thousand miles away. Depending on your answers I may have a troubleshooting solution to the problem you originally posted.

 

[StarTech]

This is exactly why I invest in the service manuals when I have a customer that has the equipment. And not the Z445 has two different service manual depending on the serial number break; therefore, there might two different wiring schematics for this mower.

I currently I have no reason to buy either one.

 

[StarTech]

I can note that there will a small current draw even when everything is right if the mower has the Kawasaki engine as the Kawasaki voltage regulator does pulls currents even when the engine is not running. Now this mower does comes with a Briggs engine too.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Sorry, I know I'm not explaining it very well. Right now I've got the main positive batter cable going to the starter relay and the piggy-backed hot wire going to the fuse block as shown in my previous illustration. BUT, since all prongs are connected inside the fuse block on that side, all of those circuits are hot when any one of them is hot.

The pic below is the kit I used to rebuild the fuse block. See how it's a block of 4 connected, and then 4 individual prongs? Connecting that hot wire to any one of that group of 4 makes them all hot. I was almost sure that's how it was previously, although maybe that hot wire is supposed to go on the OTHER side, with the prongs that are not connected.

FWIW I disconnected that hot wire and got nothing when I tried to crank.

Thanks for the help!

This is not the right set of connectors
The 4 connectors on a common strip need to be cut into 2 with 2 connections
The reds are on one pair & the yellows are on the other
Red is for unswitched power & yellow for switched power
SO there is one problem
Pull the 4 way terminal strip out & cut it in half

This is the same kit I bought for a Z 335 that had melted the fuse box because the main ground strap was loose & sparking .
I cut the entire sectionbetween terminal 2 & 3 away before fitting
It will be a PIA to pull that 4 way out but that is the root of our problem .

 

[StarTech]

Now that can explain things...

 

[EastonRob]

Sorry, just got back from dinner.

This is ALL good information, and it makes perfect sense. I will pull the four connector set out and cut in half and report back.

I also did pull the trigger and purchased a TM1499 which I believe is correct for the 445 I have (based on S/N and Kawasaki engine).

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Now that can explain things...

The fuse box "kit" Rob bought is for the headlights on a lot of 50's to 80's USA built cars
This is because JD only sell the fuse box with the full loom which down here was a bit over $ 400 ( aus ) so never going to happen
The latter models used a different fuse box which is easier to get and supplied with several sets of terminals .
Fairly sure I posted details and part numbers a year or so ago so whoever was compiling that list of mower connectors could add it to the list .

 

[StarTech]

Understandable as JD is a pain on just about everything. Many of the JD used connectors I find through Mouser myself here.

 

[Rivets]

Bert you beat me to it! That was where I was headed with the questions I asked. The only thing I was wondering was if it should be cut in half or three pieces? I’m wondering if the two yellow circuits should also be separated? Depending on his answers I was going to have him pull the fuses one at a time and see what they control and see if the voltage drain problem is remedied when one or both of the yellow circuits has no fuse when left standing. Let’s see what he comes up with when he posts back. Thank you for sticking you two cents in, as with electrical troubleshooting a fresh set of eyes is most often welcome.