z335e will not crank when key is turned

D

D0UG

Member
z335e will not crank. Tested brake, seat, handle safety switches and all fuses. Replaced starter solenoid and ignition switch but will not crank. The old ignition switch was definitely faulty.

If I pull up blade engagement button, the belt clutch engages when the key is turned. I don't detect 12V at starter solenoid when the key is turned.
 
Do you have 12V at the other terminal at solenoid? Does the ignition switch provide 12V to solenoid? Sounds like safety switch, connectors, wiring, or fuse. Sounds like you've checked fuse and switches.
 
Is there 12V on 702B Green wire at the ignition switch when it is on and the PTO switch off, brake engaged, someone's butt on the seat, and both lap bars out in neutral.

The starter solenoid ground is controlled thru the interlock relay
 
After 2 days of looking at this and grass is now knee high, I decided to just crank it straight off the battery so I could mow grass. Released the brake and all was good but when the left handle was pulled in, the engine shut off. The left handle switch appears to be fine but I do not know how to test the connector that plugs onto the switch.
 
you did test it by using it. That killed the engine. Most likely it is either defective or out of adjustment.
 
Thanks a lot for the wiring diagram. It helped me recognize I witched the connectors on the left control handle and the brake. I will correct that tomorrow in the daylight and see if that helps.

There is one diode (D3) on the fuse block. I don't know where these other 2 diodes are located. F3 is the fuse that was blown when I started diagnostics.
 
Well I moved the brake and left neutral handle switches but now it doesn't have ignition voltage even when I crank it with power directly to the starter. I still don't know where the diodes D1 & D2 are or the relay K2. I suspect K2 is the black box plugged into the fuse box but it is not labeled so not sure what it is.
I bought this mower ($2,000) thinking I would finally have a reliable mower and not always working on $300 mowers top keep them running all summer. The old cheap mowers I was patching up never gave me this much trouble. I always had them back mowing grass within a couple hours.
 
My recollection is someone asked the same a couple years ago, and the was that D1 and D2 are part of the harness between the two ignition coils.
 
D1 and D2 are under the engine shroud connected to the kill terminals of the ignition coils on that Briggs engine.

K2 is in the Fuse Box and looks like this.
1786314101740.png
JD PN M169838
ALTERNATE PN 301-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC
 
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