Tiger Cat issues

[Zach3713]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum, and looking for some help. I have a STC52V-27CV-SS. I've noticed a couple things abiout the mower. First, the most concerning is that it doesn't seem to cut the same as it did when it was new, not at all like it originally did. It seems to bog a lot easier and get choked down in places it didn't and hasn't in the past. I've replaced the main deck belt and I change the blades every other week. I've also greased all the pulleys. What would cause this? The mower has 76.6 hours on it.

Second, the left drive lever seems to get stuck sometimes when I try to pull it back to go in reverse, it seems like its binding ir something. Any and all help is appreciate!

 

[Mad Mackie]

Why did you replace the deck belt?
Pulleys have sealed bearings, how did you lube them?
The spindle bearings can be lubricated and should be at 40 hour intervals with the correct grease.
Why are you changing blades so often?
Are you installing the blades correctly?
Are you torqueing the blade nuts to 75 FTLBs?
Engine bogging down or deck bogging down?

 

[Zach3713]

Why did you replace the deck belt?
Pulleys have sealed bearings, how did you lube them?
The spindle bearings can be lubricated and should be at 40 hour intervals with the correct grease.
Why are you changing blades so often?
Are you installing the blades correctly?
Are you torqueing the blade nuts to 75 FTLBs?
Engine bogging down or deck bogging down?

1)Replaced the deck belt becuase the cut wasn't as good as before, thought the belt might have been stretched out and worn.
2)I guess I meant I greased the spindle bearings, whatever the fitting is on under the pulley. What is the correct grease to use?
3)Changing the blades to ensure I am getting a good cut, although i'm not.
4)YEs blades are installed right
5)YEs, torqqued to 75ftlbs
6)Not sure how to tell the difference. I guess maybe the deck is bogging.

 

[Mad Mackie]

Did you purchase this machine new?
Did you burnish the clutch prior to mowing with this machine? Some mower manufacturers burnish clutches prior to delivery to the dealer, Scag does not do this and they put an instruction sheet in with the operators manual describing this procedure.
Burnishing the clutch is a procedure where the clutch is engaged/disengaged at lower engine speeds progressively to higher engine speeds to seat the high torque surfaces in the clutch.
A slipping clutch from either lack of burnishing or out of adjustment will overheat and this heat is transferred into the deck drive belt causing it to slip and prematurely fail.
Scag uses springs to hold tension on the belts and sometimes these springs can loose their strength even on a low time machine.
The deck on newer Scag machines needs a particular high lift type blade. I have found OEM Scag blades to be OK, Stens aftermarket blades to wear out soon and too soft. I now use an Oregon 91-600 series blade although not a direct replacement for the Scag blade. I'm pleased with the performance and durability of the Oregon blades and I will continue to use them.
I suggest that you get some Sea Foam fuel additive and pour some into the fuel tanks of your machine. mix this additive to the strong side of the ration on the label. There may be some crud buildup in your carb and the Sea Foam additive may clear it out. I have to do this several times a season on my Tiger Cub particularly if the machine is not run for several weeks due to weather or other circumstances. I put 100-150 hours on my TC per season and most of the time the collection system is installed. I also have other machines that I mow with.
In your owners manual in the lube section are recommendations for spindle lube. I still have several tubes of Shell Alvania #2 grease but Shell has discontinued this grease. My local Scag dealer now stocks Mobilix #2 for spindles. You can use the correct spindle grease on the entire machine but not the other way around as chassis grease is not desired in the spindles.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[Mad Mackie]

As for the travel levers, lift up the seat and look down at the lever pivot area. You will see that in the reverse direction there is a sleeve and spring that retards the reverse direction only. This sleeve can accumulate dirt causing stiff travel of the levers from neutral into reverse. I blow the dirt off these sleeves frequently and I spray them with a dry lube so they won't attract dirt. Also down lower is a gas filled damper attached to the levers if cleaning and lubing the spring sleeves doesn't resolve your problem then the damper or the pump itself may be the problem.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[Zach3713]

Did you purchase this machine new?
Did you burnish the clutch prior to mowing with this machine? Some mower manufacturers burnish clutches prior to delivery to the dealer, Scag does not do this and they put an instruction sheet in with the operators manual describing this procedure.
Burnishing the clutch is a procedure where the clutch is engaged/disengaged at lower engine speeds progressively to higher engine speeds to seat the high torque surfaces in the clutch.
A slipping clutch from either lack of burnishing or out of adjustment will overheat and this heat is transferred into the deck drive belt causing it to slip and prematurely fail.
Scag uses springs to hold tension on the belts and sometimes these springs can loose their strength even on a low time machine.
The deck on newer Scag machines needs a particular high lift type blade. I have found OEM Scag blades to be OK, Stens aftermarket blades to wear out soon and too soft. I now use an Oregon 91-600 series blade although not a direct replacement for the Scag blade. I'm pleased with the performance and durability of the Oregon blades and I will continue to use them.
I suggest that you get some Sea Foam fuel additive and pour some into the fuel tanks of your machine. mix this additive to the strong side of the ration on the label. There may be some crud buildup in your carb and the Sea Foam additive may clear it out. I have to do this several times a season on my Tiger Cub particularly if the machine is not run for several weeks due to weather or other circumstances. I put 100-150 hours on my TC per season and most of the time the collection system is installed. I also have other machines that I mow with.
In your owners manual in the lube section are recommendations for spindle lube. I still have several tubes of Shell Alvania #2 grease but Shell has discontinued this grease. My local Scag dealer now stocks Mobilix #2 for spindles. You can use the correct spindle grease on the entire machine but not the other way around as chassis grease is not desired in the spindles.
Mad Mackie in CT

I bought the machine "new". It' didn't appear to have any use on it, however, the hour meter read 46.5. I was told that the key was left on and it took 46.5 hours for the battery to die. I had a few issues when I first bought the machine with it running, was told it sat for a while and carb got gummed up. The shop cleaned the carb and it has run good since then.

I must say that I didn't read about "burnishing" the clutch, or really anything to be honest. I asked the dealer several questions before leaving along with anything that I needed to do before I used the machine. Their response was no, go start cutting grass.

When I replaced the belt, I didn't actually measure, however, there didn't seem to be any diff. in the length if any at all. I have four set of scag blades, 3 of the regular high lift, and one of the style like the oregon gator blades.

What do you think the problem could be? What can I do to check?

 

[Zepaholic]

I bought the machine "new". It' didn't appear to have any use on it, however, the hour meter read 46.5. I was told that the key was left on and it took 46.5 hours for the battery to die. I had a few issues when I first bought the machine with it running, was told it sat for a while and carb got gummed up. The shop cleaned the carb and it has run good since then.

I must say that I didn't read about "burnishing" the clutch, or really anything to be honest. I asked the dealer several questions before leaving along with anything that I needed to do before I used the machine. Their response was no, go start cutting grass.

When I replaced the belt, I didn't actually measure, however, there didn't seem to be any diff. in the length if any at all. I have four set of scag blades, 3 of the regular high lift, and one of the style like the oregon gator blades.

What do you think the problem could be? What can I do to check?

When I bought my Turf Tiger my dealer went thru the whole machine with me. With that said he told me the engine has to be running for the hour meter to work. I think your dealer is blowing smoke or at least he is trying to. Just my $.02

 

[Zach3713]

When I bought my Turf Tiger my dealer went thru the whole machine with me. With that said he told me the engine has to be running for the hour meter to work. I think your dealer is blowing smoke or at least he is trying to. Just my $.02

You're right, it even says it on the scag website.

 

[Mad Mackie]

I agree with Zepa and Zack, the hour meter always shows the time but doesn't clock time unless the engine is running.
When a key switch is left in the on position and the engine not running, battery power is backfed into the charging system and the battery will die in a few hours, not 46 as they had told you. When the key switch is in the off position, the charging system output circuit is opened to prevent back feeding from the battery.
A few things to know about Tiger Cubs and Tiger Cats which are very similar to each other;
When removing the oil filter, oil will drip onto the clutch unless you shield it with a shop towel.
If a clutch was not properly burnished when new, it will start slipping in time. A slipping clutch will get excessively hot and this heat will cause premature failure of the deck drive belt.
Clutches have a brake in them by design and if the airgap is out of adjustment, the brake will still be dragging when the clutch is engaged and also cause overheating.
In time, clutch overheating will cause a breakdown of the epoxy covering the electric coil that provides the magnetism to engage the clutch.
There are two bearings in the clutch, one is in the pulley, the other is in the end cover. Both turn all the time the engine is running except the pulley bearing when the clutch is engaged. These bearings can overheat and burn the grease and the seals.
I suggest that you get a can of Sea Foam and add it to your fuel tanks per the directions on the can. Run the machine mowing and see if there is any improvement in performance. However the carb may still need to be cleaned even after several doses of Sea Foam.
If this machine is still in warranty, I would find a reputable Scag dealer and talk with them.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[Mad Mackie]

If you do not have an owners/operators manual for your machine, get the numbers on the machine and go to the Scag website, click on manuals, find your machine and serial number group, click and download the manuals.