School Me on Fuel Solenoids for 44x677-xxxx

Resqguy said:
I'm a little confused. Are you recommending that I bypass the solenoid? I've done some additional troubleshooting and narrowed down the problem to be the electrical connection between the wire and the pin inside the connector attached to the solenoid. When I pull on the wire with the key on the solenoid will open and close. I tried looking for a source to replace the connector but had no luck. My options are to replace the wiring harness or bypass the solenoid.
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Bypassing the solenoid is an option. Some people go to lengths to clean, repair, replace the anti-afterfire carburetor solenoid. While others, like myself, realize that these solenoid malfunction and offer no real benefit to the equipment, as long as shutting down is not done at wide open throttle to prevent backfiring.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
Bypassing the solenoid is an option. Some people go to lengths to clean, repair, replace the anti-afterfire carburetor solenoid. While others, like myself, realize that these solenoid malfunction and offer no real benefit to the equipment, as long as shutting down is not done at wide open throttle to prevent backfiring.
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Thanks for the clarification. Is there a wrong way or right way to bypass the solenoid? I have one with the plunger removed, that doesn't leak. Can I just install that?
 
Hello R,

After installing the "shell" solenoid, I recommend installing a manual shutoff valve inline and use it each time you shut the mower down, just let it run the carburetor out of fuel that way.
 
Yes, I have already installed a shutoff on mine. My last mower had the gas tank behind the engine and gas would end up in the crankcase. Briggs self destruct system #1.
 
Auto Doc's said:
Hello R,

After installing the "shell" solenoid, I recommend installing a manual shutoff valve inline and use it each time you shut the mower down, just let it run the carburetor out of fuel that way.
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Why would you need to use a fuel shut off valve each time you are finished with the mower if the anti-afterfire solenoid is bypassed? The needle and seat do the job of shutting off the fuel, not the solenoid. Yes, I know the pintle in the solenoid shuts off the fuel to the main jet. Otherwise, every carburetor would leak fuel, hydro lock engine, etc. This is what I am talking about when it comes to the carburetor solenoid and misunderstanding.
 
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Tiger Small Engine said:
Why would you need to use a fuel shut off valve each time you are finished with the mower if the anti-afterfire solenoid is bypassed? The needle and seat do the job of shutting off the fuel, not the solenoid. Yes, I know the pintle in the carburetor shuts off the fuel to the main jet. Otherwise, every carburetor would leak fuel, hydro lock engine, etc. This is what I am talking about when it comes to the carburetor solenoid and misunderstanding.
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Fuel evaporation and temperature changes when the machine sits for long periods will usually result in slow float needle leaking. A manual shut off valve is simply good insurance.
 
I have a Kohler Command on a Snapper. One day it decided to let the fuel out of the tank via the float bowl. Had worked perfectly for years before and given no indication of a problem with float bowl shutoff.
I decided that it was cheaper and safer to add an actual fuel cutoff to the fuel line feeding the float bowl. I have religiously used it every time I park the beast after use.
I do not know if the float bowl needle has a problem currently. I did replace the needle and seat(OEM was ~$50 for a carb kit!!!!) at the time, but added the cutoff as I did not want to burn down the garage and house.
You may choose to add a cutoff or not. The ABF will NOT stop fuel leaking past a failing needle valve. It just blocks major fuel flow as the engine spins down after the spark is killed enough to slow the fuel flow and starve the engine. The needle valve is responsible to prevent fuel leakage from the float bowl, and they can fail without much visible evidence. Until it is too late.
tom
 
grumpyunk said:
but added the cutoff as I did not want to burn down the garage and house.
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For sure.

I installed smoke alarms above the big garage door where the fuel cans sit on cinder blocks. Another in my hot water tank slash furnace garage closet. Another alarm in the middle of the house where we have a second gas hot water tank. Course all in the inside as well.

Home Depot has I think is the Kidde brand alarms for at the time, like 7 bucks?? They were in a generic brown box where all the other pricey alarms are.
 
Auto Doc's said:
Fuel evaporation and temperature changes when the machine sits for long periods will usually result in slow float needle leaking. A manual shut off valve is simply good insurance.
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I install fuel shut off valves on every piece of equipment I can that comes in my shop. This is for storing equipment for extended periods of time (months). Not because of the anti-afterfire solenoid.
 
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