You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Scag Tiger Cub Wheel Motor Removal
#1
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
I have a seal leaking on the right wheel motor and I have found a repair facility that will rebuild the wheel motor. My question is how do you remove the wheel motor from the motor? And should I drain the hydro oil from the system first? Any additional info would be appreciated.......
#2
M
Mad Mackie
The answer to your question is more complex than you may realize and depends on your mechanical skill level and available tools needed to do the job.
I initially recommend that you go to your hydraulic shop with the manual for your machine, show them the Fuel and Hydraulic System page in section 8 and ask them for plugs and caps so you can cap off and plug the hydraulic connections that you need to disconnect. No matter what, anytime that a hydraulic connection is disconnected there will be oil leakage and you need to be prepared for this and capping/plugging the hydraulic connections is the best way to keep oil dripping to a minimum.
Let us know if your are capable of doing this job and I will post a step by step procedure for you to follow.
On the Brake Components page in your manual is the breakdown of what attaches to the wheelmotor, all of the components shown as going onto the wheelmotor will need to be removed. The possible snag will be removing the hub assembly from the wheelmotor shaft as corrosion and the key may make it difficult to remove. I have had to use a special puller on several to get the hub to move off the shaft.
If you don't have a manual for your machine, get the machine model and serial numbers, go to the Scag website, in the lower left is a link for manuals, find the specific manual for your machine and download it, it is in pdf format and printable.
There is a possibility that internal problems with your wheelmotor may have caused the shaft seal to leak and you may need to replace it.
So let us know where you stand as to doing this job.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
M
Mad Mackie
I have a seal leaking on the right wheel motor and I have found a repair facility that will rebuild the wheel motor. My question is how do you remove the wheel motor from the motor? And should I drain the hydro oil from the system first? Any additional info would be appreciated.......
The answer to your question is more complex than you may realize and depends on your mechanical skill level and available tools needed to do the job.
I initially recommend that you go to your hydraulic shop with the manual for your machine, show them the Fuel and Hydraulic System page in section 8 and ask them for plugs and caps so you can cap off and plug the hydraulic connections that you need to disconnect. No matter what, anytime that a hydraulic connection is disconnected there will be oil leakage and you need to be prepared for this and capping/plugging the hydraulic connections is the best way to keep oil dripping to a minimum.
Let us know if your are capable of doing this job and I will post a step by step procedure for you to follow.
On the Brake Components page in your manual is the breakdown of what attaches to the wheelmotor, all of the components shown as going onto the wheelmotor will need to be removed. The possible snag will be removing the hub assembly from the wheelmotor shaft as corrosion and the key may make it difficult to remove. I have had to use a special puller on several to get the hub to move off the shaft.
If you don't have a manual for your machine, get the machine model and serial numbers, go to the Scag website, in the lower left is a link for manuals, find the specific manual for your machine and download it, it is in pdf format and printable.
There is a possibility that internal problems with your wheelmotor may have caused the shaft seal to leak and you may need to replace it.
So let us know where you stand as to doing this job.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#3
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Thanks so much for your info. I think this job may be beyond my capabilities. I will call my scag dealer to find out if they will be willing to remove the wheel motor then I will get it repaired for their reinstall. I just hate to pay them almost $1000 to do this work......
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
The answer to your question is more complex than you may realize and depends on your mechanical skill level and available tools needed to do the job.
I initially recommend that you go to your hydraulic shop with the manual for your machine, show them the Fuel and Hydraulic System page in section 8 and ask them for plugs and caps so you can cap off and plug the hydraulic connections that you need to disconnect. No matter what, anytime that a hydraulic connection is disconnected there will be oil leakage and you need to be prepared for this and capping/plugging the hydraulic connections is the best way to keep oil dripping to a minimum.
Let us know if your are capable of doing this job and I will post a step by step procedure for you to follow.
On the Brake Components page in your manual is the breakdown of what attaches to the wheelmotor, all of the components shown as going onto the wheelmotor will need to be removed. The possible snag will be removing the hub assembly from the wheelmotor shaft as corrosion and the key may make it difficult to remove. I have had to use a special puller on several to get the hub to move off the shaft.
If you don't have a manual for your machine, get the machine model and serial numbers, go to the Scag website, in the lower left is a link for manuals, find the specific manual for your machine and download it, it is in pdf format and printable.
There is a possibility that internal problems with your wheelmotor may have caused the shaft seal to leak and you may need to replace it.
So let us know where you stand as to doing this job.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Thanks so much for your info. I think this job may be beyond my capabilities. I will call my scag dealer to find out if they will be willing to remove the wheel motor then I will get it repaired for their reinstall. I just hate to pay them almost $1000 to do this work......
#4
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Youe Scag dealer may not want to do this job and prefer to install a new wheelmotor. Having someone else repair the wheelmotor leaves them with two undesirable situations, one, the machine will be disabled and not easily moved with the wheelmotor removed while the hydraulic shop is repairing it or if the repair wasn't done correctly, then the Scag dealer has to remove it again and who pays for that??? The Scag dealer would prefer to diagnose the problem, give you an estimate, order the parts and do the job when the parts are in stock. If the wheelmotor on your machine has failed internally and caused the hydraulic system to become contaminated with metal particles, then the problem becomes much greater than initially thought.
Just some thoughts from a retired mech!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Just some thoughts from a retired mech!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#5
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Yea, your right about the Scag dealer. The only part of the wheel motor removal I'm concerned about is getting the hub off. I don't have any pullers and aren't very familiar with them. If you could direct me towards a video I might get enough info to tackle the job myself or maybe take a pic of the wheel puller alternatively tell me where to get one and describe what it looks like. I really appreciate all your help.
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Youe Scag dealer may not want to do this job and prefer to install a new wheelmotor. Having someone else repair the wheelmotor leaves them with two undesirable situations, one, the machine will be disabled and not easily moved with the wheelmotor removed while the hydraulic shop is repairing it or if the repair wasn't done correctly, then the Scag dealer has to remove it again and who pays for that??? The Scag dealer would prefer to diagnose the problem, give you an estimate, order the parts and do the job when the parts are in stock. If the wheelmotor on your machine has failed internally and caused the hydraulic system to become contaminated with metal particles, then the problem becomes much greater than initially thought.
Just some thoughts from a retired mech!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Yea, your right about the Scag dealer. The only part of the wheel motor removal I'm concerned about is getting the hub off. I don't have any pullers and aren't very familiar with them. If you could direct me towards a video I might get enough info to tackle the job myself or maybe take a pic of the wheel puller alternatively tell me where to get one and describe what it looks like. I really appreciate all your help.
#6
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Ken,
This is the best that I can do.
Things that you will need:
A jack to raise up the right rear of the machine.
Sockets, open end or combination wrenches to fit all that need to be removed/disconnected.
Pliers and a Chanel Lock pliers to remove the 1 3/8" nut holding the hub onto the wheelmotor shaft.
Blocks of wood to hold the machine after jack is removed.
What to do:
If you have a digital camera, take pics as you disassemble for wheelmotor removal to assist you in reassembling. Clean the areas that you will be working around, you don't want dust/dirt getting into the hydraulic system.
With parking brake on, break loose the four wheel lug nuts, but don't remove them yet.
Jack the machine up and place wood support blocks under the machine frame support that is between the rear tire and the aft corner of the deck. This block(s) need to be large enough and long enough so they will stay in place should you move the machine while attempting to remove the hub. Let the jack down so the machine rests safely on the block(s). I have a piece of 4"X6"X12" long cut specially to do this so I have only one block.
Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin and large nut that hold the hub on.
Release the parking brake, remove the brake band and reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, put the four lug nuts back on hand tight.
While pulling on the tire as leverage, attempt to slide the hub off the wheelmotor shaft.
If this doesn't work, then remove the tire/wheel.
Using two prybars, pry under the drum of the hub and hopefully be able to remove the hub from the shaft. Remember that moving the machine while it is sitting on the block(s) can be risky and you don't want the machine to fall off the support blocks!!!
If you are successful in removing the hub, then the wheelmotor will be next. Remove the pin from the brake linkage, remove the two bolts holding the brake actuator, lay these parts aside. Mark the hoses before disconnecting them and get a drip pan to contain the hydraulic that will drain from the hoses when disconnected.
Disconnect the hoses from the wheelmotor, use two open end wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the motor and the other to turn the nut on the hose fitting. Place drip pan under wheelmotor. Cap the hoses and motor fittings.
If you get to this point successfully, then remove the two remaining bolts/nuts holding the wheelmotor onto the frame.
Reading this should have given you a headache by now!!!!
If you are still not able to remove the hub, you can still remove the wheelmotor with the brake actuator still under the hub and the hub can be removed on a press at the hydraulic shop. However this makes disconnecting the hoses a bit more difficult.
Good thing that my Tiger Cub is sitting in my shop so I can look at it as I type this to you!!! Now I need a nap, typing this is more tiring than actually doing the job!!!:laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
This is the best that I can do.
Things that you will need:
A jack to raise up the right rear of the machine.
Sockets, open end or combination wrenches to fit all that need to be removed/disconnected.
Pliers and a Chanel Lock pliers to remove the 1 3/8" nut holding the hub onto the wheelmotor shaft.
Blocks of wood to hold the machine after jack is removed.
What to do:
If you have a digital camera, take pics as you disassemble for wheelmotor removal to assist you in reassembling. Clean the areas that you will be working around, you don't want dust/dirt getting into the hydraulic system.
With parking brake on, break loose the four wheel lug nuts, but don't remove them yet.
Jack the machine up and place wood support blocks under the machine frame support that is between the rear tire and the aft corner of the deck. This block(s) need to be large enough and long enough so they will stay in place should you move the machine while attempting to remove the hub. Let the jack down so the machine rests safely on the block(s). I have a piece of 4"X6"X12" long cut specially to do this so I have only one block.
Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin and large nut that hold the hub on.
Release the parking brake, remove the brake band and reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, put the four lug nuts back on hand tight.
While pulling on the tire as leverage, attempt to slide the hub off the wheelmotor shaft.
If this doesn't work, then remove the tire/wheel.
Using two prybars, pry under the drum of the hub and hopefully be able to remove the hub from the shaft. Remember that moving the machine while it is sitting on the block(s) can be risky and you don't want the machine to fall off the support blocks!!!
If you are successful in removing the hub, then the wheelmotor will be next. Remove the pin from the brake linkage, remove the two bolts holding the brake actuator, lay these parts aside. Mark the hoses before disconnecting them and get a drip pan to contain the hydraulic that will drain from the hoses when disconnected.
Disconnect the hoses from the wheelmotor, use two open end wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the motor and the other to turn the nut on the hose fitting. Place drip pan under wheelmotor. Cap the hoses and motor fittings.
If you get to this point successfully, then remove the two remaining bolts/nuts holding the wheelmotor onto the frame.
Reading this should have given you a headache by now!!!!
If you are still not able to remove the hub, you can still remove the wheelmotor with the brake actuator still under the hub and the hub can be removed on a press at the hydraulic shop. However this makes disconnecting the hoses a bit more difficult.
Good thing that my Tiger Cub is sitting in my shop so I can look at it as I type this to you!!! Now I need a nap, typing this is more tiring than actually doing the job!!!:laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#7
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Mad Mackie
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Hi Ken,
This is the best that I can do.
Things that you will need:
A jack to raise up the right rear of the machine.
Sockets, open end or combination wrenches to fit all that need to be removed/disconnected.
Pliers and a Chanel Lock pliers to remove the 1 3/8" nut holding the hub onto the wheelmotor shaft.
Blocks of wood to hold the machine after jack is removed.
What to do:
If you have a digital camera, take pics as you disassemble for wheelmotor removal to assist you in reassembling. Clean the areas that you will be working around, you don't want dust/dirt getting into the hydraulic system.
With parking brake on, break loose the four wheel lug nuts, but don't remove them yet.
Jack the machine up and place wood support blocks under the machine frame support that is between the rear tire and the aft corner of the deck. This block(s) need to be large enough and long enough so they will stay in place should you move the machine while attempting to remove the hub. Let the jack down so the machine rests safely on the block(s). I have a piece of 4"X6"X12" long cut specially to do this so I have only one block.
Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin and large nut that hold the hub on.
Release the parking brake, remove the brake band and reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, put the four lug nuts back on hand tight.
While pulling on the tire as leverage, attempt to slide the hub off the wheelmotor shaft.
If this doesn't work, then remove the tire/wheel.
Using two prybars, pry under the drum of the hub and hopefully be able to remove the hub from the shaft. Remember that moving the machine while it is sitting on the block(s) can be risky and you don't want the machine to fall off the support blocks!!!
If you are successful in removing the hub, then the wheelmotor will be next. Remove the pin from the brake linkage, remove the two bolts holding the brake actuator, lay these parts aside. Mark the hoses before disconnecting them and get a drip pan to contain the hydraulic that will drain from the hoses when disconnected.
Disconnect the hoses from the wheelmotor, use two open end wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the motor and the other to turn the nut on the hose fitting. Place drip pan under wheelmotor. Cap the hoses and motor fittings.
If you get to this point successfully, then remove the two remaining bolts/nuts holding the wheelmotor onto the frame.
Reading this should have given you a headache by now!!!!
If you are still not able to remove the hub, you can still remove the wheelmotor with the brake actuator still under the hub and the hub can be removed on a press at the hydraulic shop. However this makes disconnecting the hoses a bit more difficult.
Good thing that my Tiger Cub is sitting in my shop so I can look at it as I type this to you!!! Now I need a nap, typing this is more tiring than actually doing the job!!!:laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Mad Mackie
#8
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Mad Mackie......I greatly appreciate your detailed procedure for removing the wheel motor from my Scag and the technical expertise you shared. It gave me the confidence to attempt the job myself. I went to my friendly auto parts store and picked up a 1 1 1/2 inch socket, yea it wasn't a 1 3/8ths, no big deal. I also rented a hub puller now that I know what they are, just in case. I followed your procedure but wasn't able to get the hub loose with just the leverage from the tire and wheel themselves so I tried the wheel puller, and although it took some force, I got the hub off. I then followed the rest of your procedure and Walla, the hub was off. I will now take the wheel motor to a local hydro shop who already acknowledged they repair these wheel motors. Thanks again, I couldn't of done this without your help......
Now, when I get the wheel motor back, is it going to be difficult to get the hub back on the wheel motor shaft, any recommendations? Also, once I connect up the hydro lines is there anything I should do to get the air out of the system? Also, should I replace the fluid or filter? Thanks again.....ken
Now, when I get the wheel motor back, is it going to be difficult to get the hub back on the wheel motor shaft, any recommendations? Also, once I connect up the hydro lines is there anything I should do to get the air out of the system? Also, should I replace the fluid or filter? Thanks again.....ken
#9
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Here are some pictures, I hope they got uploaded, that show the outer bearing seal has come loose. Grass has contaminated the bearings. This seems to be a poor design on the part of the manufacturer, I wouldn't think the bearing seal could come loose so easily.
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
Here are some pictures, I hope they got uploaded, that show the outer bearing seal has come loose. Grass has contaminated the bearings. This seems to be a poor design on the part of the manufacturer, I wouldn't think the bearing seal could come loose so easily.
#10
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Ken,
Great job!!
You will need to cleanup both the hub ID and the motor shaft enough so the hub will slide onto the motor shaft with minimum effort without the key installed, and a little more effort with the key installed.
You will need a half round file the round of which has a smaller curve than the hub ID and some 200 and possibly 400 grit wet or dry emery paper.
You will need to remove the key from wherever it stuck to if it didn't fall out.
With the curved part of the file, cleanup any high and or rough spots in the hub bore to include the edges of the key slot. The same needs to be done to the motor shaft with the flat side of the file and finish both with the emery paper. I sometimes cut pieces of the emery paper to fit over the curve of the file to cleanup the hub bore and cut 2" wide strips of emery paper to work the shaft.
Without the key, the hub should slide fairly easily onto the shaft with minimal effort. If the key isn't too bad, you can use the flat of the file to clean it up and reuse it.
When you are comfortable with the final fitup of the hub to the motor shaft, you can use some anti-seize compound on the shaft, install the key. When installing the key, use a softer metal on the key, then tap the soft metal.
When you get the wheelmotor back from repair, I suggest that you install, connect it, refill the hydraulic reservoir if any loss has happened, raise the machine up so the other wheel is off the ground and run the engine.
Leave the otherside travel lever out and operate this side lever by moving the lever forward until you see the wheelmotor turning, bring the lever slowly to reverse also observing the wheelmotor. Do this with the engine at idle several times while checking the oil level in the reservoir. This way, if any problems arise such as hydraulic leaks, then you don't have to remove the hub and wheel to take care of the problems. The hydraulic system should self bleed out the air as you do this.
When you are totally satisfied with the repaired side, as the both machine drive wheels will be off the ground, you can operate both drive wheels hydraulically to ensure that both sides are operating satisfactorily. Then install the hub, brake actuator, brake band and connect the brake lever linkage and check that it is operating correctly. When all this is done, install the wheel, put the machine back on the floor and go for a test run. Recheck the oil level in the reservoir.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Great job!!
You will need to cleanup both the hub ID and the motor shaft enough so the hub will slide onto the motor shaft with minimum effort without the key installed, and a little more effort with the key installed.
You will need a half round file the round of which has a smaller curve than the hub ID and some 200 and possibly 400 grit wet or dry emery paper.
You will need to remove the key from wherever it stuck to if it didn't fall out.
With the curved part of the file, cleanup any high and or rough spots in the hub bore to include the edges of the key slot. The same needs to be done to the motor shaft with the flat side of the file and finish both with the emery paper. I sometimes cut pieces of the emery paper to fit over the curve of the file to cleanup the hub bore and cut 2" wide strips of emery paper to work the shaft.
Without the key, the hub should slide fairly easily onto the shaft with minimal effort. If the key isn't too bad, you can use the flat of the file to clean it up and reuse it.
When you are comfortable with the final fitup of the hub to the motor shaft, you can use some anti-seize compound on the shaft, install the key. When installing the key, use a softer metal on the key, then tap the soft metal.
When you get the wheelmotor back from repair, I suggest that you install, connect it, refill the hydraulic reservoir if any loss has happened, raise the machine up so the other wheel is off the ground and run the engine.
Leave the otherside travel lever out and operate this side lever by moving the lever forward until you see the wheelmotor turning, bring the lever slowly to reverse also observing the wheelmotor. Do this with the engine at idle several times while checking the oil level in the reservoir. This way, if any problems arise such as hydraulic leaks, then you don't have to remove the hub and wheel to take care of the problems. The hydraulic system should self bleed out the air as you do this.
When you are totally satisfied with the repaired side, as the both machine drive wheels will be off the ground, you can operate both drive wheels hydraulically to ensure that both sides are operating satisfactorily. Then install the hub, brake actuator, brake band and connect the brake lever linkage and check that it is operating correctly. When all this is done, install the wheel, put the machine back on the floor and go for a test run. Recheck the oil level in the reservoir.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#11
M
Mad Mackie
A good hydraulic repair shop should be able to determine what caused the seal to move. Both where the seal sits in the housing and where the lip rides on the motor shaft will need to be cleaned up. The hydraulic shop will do this.
The green residue in the motor housing is locking compound. The hydraulic system and this wheelmotor may have overheated which can cause the locking compound to soften allowing the seal to move under system pressure, just a thought.
Design wise, this is normal for this type of hydraulic motor.
Mad Mackie in CT
M
Mad Mackie
View attachment 23480View attachment 23481View attachment 23482
Here are some pictures, I hope they got uploaded, that show the outer bearing seal has come loose. Grass has contaminated the bearings. This seems to be a poor design on the part of the manufacturer, I wouldn't think the bearing seal could come loose so easily.
A good hydraulic repair shop should be able to determine what caused the seal to move. Both where the seal sits in the housing and where the lip rides on the motor shaft will need to be cleaned up. The hydraulic shop will do this.
The green residue in the motor housing is locking compound. The hydraulic system and this wheelmotor may have overheated which can cause the locking compound to soften allowing the seal to move under system pressure, just a thought.
Design wise, this is normal for this type of hydraulic motor.
Mad Mackie in CT
#12
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
I took the motor to a hydraulic repair shop and they reseated the dirt and water seal and said to give it a try again. I did, and it came out again after just a short time mowing. The mower runs without any problems except for the seal coming out and the leaking of fluid. The Hydraulic shop said they could provide a replacement wheel motor cheaper than rebuilding the one I have. I don't have a lot of confidence in this shop as I have never done business with them before. I'm wondering if I should get a new seal. I don't see any green residue in the motor housing, maybe the seal and locking compound just deteriorated over time. The mower was purchased in 2003 and now has a little over 1100 hours on it.
Another issue, the part number on the motor is Parker TG series, yet all the replacement motors that are offered from Scag and others are TF Series. I'm wondering if this will give me a problem if I have a TG series driving one wheel and a TF series driving the other. In looking at the specs for both motors the TG series has 13 displacements and the TF series has 11 displacements, I don't have a clue what that means. Any advice that you could provide on both these issues would be appreciated.
Another issue, the part number on the motor is Parker TG series, yet all the replacement motors that are offered from Scag and others are TF Series. I'm wondering if this will give me a problem if I have a TG series driving one wheel and a TF series driving the other. In looking at the specs for both motors the TG series has 13 displacements and the TF series has 11 displacements, I don't have a clue what that means. Any advice that you could provide on both these issues would be appreciated.
#13
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi ken,
This is disappointing to say the least. A few years back I worked in an aircraft hydraulic components repair shop. I would have never reinstalled the same seal. Locktite makes a compound solvent cleaner, and a primer/cleaner and good strong seal locking compounds.
The problem with reinstalling a seal is that it's outside diameter is smaller after having been previously installed, particularly if the seal wasn't initially installed perfectly straight. New seals of this type usually come with sealing compound already applied to the OD and when correctly installed, the compound will liquefy slightly and then dry out in the absence of air and lock in nicely.
As for wheel motors, what is the Scag P/N of your wheel motor?
This is disappointing to say the least. A few years back I worked in an aircraft hydraulic components repair shop. I would have never reinstalled the same seal. Locktite makes a compound solvent cleaner, and a primer/cleaner and good strong seal locking compounds.
The problem with reinstalling a seal is that it's outside diameter is smaller after having been previously installed, particularly if the seal wasn't initially installed perfectly straight. New seals of this type usually come with sealing compound already applied to the OD and when correctly installed, the compound will liquefy slightly and then dry out in the absence of air and lock in nicely.
As for wheel motors, what is the Scag P/N of your wheel motor?
#14
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
The support ring probably needs to be removed to properly install the seal. there are special mandrels made to correctly install these seals and usually done on a press. The support ring probably has an O ring to seal it's installation and the bolts may have also. I used to have the machinists turn mandrels for us shop mechs. I still save pieces that look like they may make a good seal/bearing installer tool.
#15
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
After reinstalling the dirt and water seal it popped out after a few hours of mowing. I contacted Parker and they were nice enough to provide the following info: "I think that the interior shaft seal has failed. It contains the internal pressure. Replacing the dirt and water seal will not stop the leaks, you need to replace the shaft seal". I have since also been provided the difference between the TG and TF series motors and found the TG series is a little "beefier" and of course costs more to purchase. I have ordered a new seal kit and am going to try the install myself. Will let you know how it goes, I expect to receive the kit in a few days.
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
The support ring probably needs to be removed to properly install the seal. there are special mandrels made to correctly install these seals and usually done on a press. The support ring probably has an O ring to seal it's installation and the bolts may have also. I used to have the machinists turn mandrels for us shop mechs. I still save pieces that look like they may make a good seal/bearing installer tool.
After reinstalling the dirt and water seal it popped out after a few hours of mowing. I contacted Parker and they were nice enough to provide the following info: "I think that the interior shaft seal has failed. It contains the internal pressure. Replacing the dirt and water seal will not stop the leaks, you need to replace the shaft seal". I have since also been provided the difference between the TG and TF series motors and found the TG series is a little "beefier" and of course costs more to purchase. I have ordered a new seal kit and am going to try the install myself. Will let you know how it goes, I expect to receive the kit in a few days.
#16
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi ken,
I've never had one apart and haven't been able to find a parts breakdown, but I did know the seal on the outside was just for keeping outside stuff out of the bearing as the lips on it face just the outside. I have seen a picture of the seal kit and it only had one "garter" seal (the outside seal) and the rest were O rings and a few molded seals/gaskets. More than likely the shaft pressure seal is an O ring. In time the shaft O ring will get a flat wear spot on it and start to leak. With the motor being primarily made of aluminum, you need to be very careful when removing o rings from their grooves as you can scratch the aluminum and cause a leak. No doubt there are some torque specs for assembling this motor correctly. Having been an aircraft hydraulics guy, I have an assortment of brass and plastic tools that I made for the purpose of dealing with O rings. I use the brass tools on steel and the plastic tools on aluminum. None have sharp points and I had to frequently reshape them and or make new ones as I worked on hydraulic components. I did landing gear and actuator overhaul and everything was tested on the test stands before they were signed off and returned to the customer.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
I've never had one apart and haven't been able to find a parts breakdown, but I did know the seal on the outside was just for keeping outside stuff out of the bearing as the lips on it face just the outside. I have seen a picture of the seal kit and it only had one "garter" seal (the outside seal) and the rest were O rings and a few molded seals/gaskets. More than likely the shaft pressure seal is an O ring. In time the shaft O ring will get a flat wear spot on it and start to leak. With the motor being primarily made of aluminum, you need to be very careful when removing o rings from their grooves as you can scratch the aluminum and cause a leak. No doubt there are some torque specs for assembling this motor correctly. Having been an aircraft hydraulics guy, I have an assortment of brass and plastic tools that I made for the purpose of dealing with O rings. I use the brass tools on steel and the plastic tools on aluminum. None have sharp points and I had to frequently reshape them and or make new ones as I worked on hydraulic components. I did landing gear and actuator overhaul and everything was tested on the test stands before they were signed off and returned to the customer.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
#17
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
I hesitated for awhile and then decided to go with a repair attempt instead of purchasing a new wheel motor. I contacted Parker and they provided the number for the correct seal kit which I ordered from eBay. I procrastinated a little longer and finally got the nerve to disassembly the wheel motor. I installed the new seals then reinstalled the motor. I was pleasantly surprised that the mower now has about four hours on the repaired wheel motor and seems to be working fine. I guess time will tell but I was happy that I attempted the repair which I thought was beyond my capabilities. I guess I underestimated myself. I couldn't of done it without your help and that of Parker who provided an excellent disassembly and reassembly document. I've attached the Parker Service Bulletin for anyone in the same situation....... Thanks to all.
K
kenzepp@shentel.net
A good hydraulic repair shop should be able to determine what caused the seal to move. Both where the seal sits in the housing and where the lip rides on the motor shaft will need to be cleaned up. The hydraulic shop will do this.
The green residue in the motor housing is locking compound. The hydraulic system and this wheelmotor may have overheated which can cause the locking compound to soften allowing the seal to move under system pressure, just a thought.
Design wise, this is normal for this type of hydraulic motor.
Mad Mackie in CT
I hesitated for awhile and then decided to go with a repair attempt instead of purchasing a new wheel motor. I contacted Parker and they provided the number for the correct seal kit which I ordered from eBay. I procrastinated a little longer and finally got the nerve to disassembly the wheel motor. I installed the new seals then reinstalled the motor. I was pleasantly surprised that the mower now has about four hours on the repaired wheel motor and seems to be working fine. I guess time will tell but I was happy that I attempted the repair which I thought was beyond my capabilities. I guess I underestimated myself. I couldn't of done it without your help and that of Parker who provided an excellent disassembly and reassembly document. I've attached the Parker Service Bulletin for anyone in the same situation....... Thanks to all.
Attachments
#18
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Ken,
Glad to hear about the progress that you have made with the wheel motor. Getting to know your machine better builds skill, confidence and saves you some dollars!!:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Glad to hear about the progress that you have made with the wheel motor. Getting to know your machine better builds skill, confidence and saves you some dollars!!:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile: