Repairs Scag Tiger Cub Wheel Motor Removal

K

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Member
I have a seal leaking on the right wheel motor and I have found a repair facility that will rebuild the wheel motor. My question is how do you remove the wheel motor from the motor? And should I drain the hydro oil from the system first? Any additional info would be appreciated.......
 
[email protected] said:
I have a seal leaking on the right wheel motor and I have found a repair facility that will rebuild the wheel motor. My question is how do you remove the wheel motor from the motor? And should I drain the hydro oil from the system first? Any additional info would be appreciated.......
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The answer to your question is more complex than you may realize and depends on your mechanical skill level and available tools needed to do the job.
I initially recommend that you go to your hydraulic shop with the manual for your machine, show them the Fuel and Hydraulic System page in section 8 and ask them for plugs and caps so you can cap off and plug the hydraulic connections that you need to disconnect. No matter what, anytime that a hydraulic connection is disconnected there will be oil leakage and you need to be prepared for this and capping/plugging the hydraulic connections is the best way to keep oil dripping to a minimum.
Let us know if your are capable of doing this job and I will post a step by step procedure for you to follow.
On the Brake Components page in your manual is the breakdown of what attaches to the wheelmotor, all of the components shown as going onto the wheelmotor will need to be removed. The possible snag will be removing the hub assembly from the wheelmotor shaft as corrosion and the key may make it difficult to remove. I have had to use a special puller on several to get the hub to move off the shaft.
If you don't have a manual for your machine, get the machine model and serial numbers, go to the Scag website, in the lower left is a link for manuals, find the specific manual for your machine and download it, it is in pdf format and printable.
There is a possibility that internal problems with your wheelmotor may have caused the shaft seal to leak and you may need to replace it.
So let us know where you stand as to doing this job.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
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Mad Mackie said:
The answer to your question is more complex than you may realize and depends on your mechanical skill level and available tools needed to do the job.
I initially recommend that you go to your hydraulic shop with the manual for your machine, show them the Fuel and Hydraulic System page in section 8 and ask them for plugs and caps so you can cap off and plug the hydraulic connections that you need to disconnect. No matter what, anytime that a hydraulic connection is disconnected there will be oil leakage and you need to be prepared for this and capping/plugging the hydraulic connections is the best way to keep oil dripping to a minimum.
Let us know if your are capable of doing this job and I will post a step by step procedure for you to follow.
On the Brake Components page in your manual is the breakdown of what attaches to the wheelmotor, all of the components shown as going onto the wheelmotor will need to be removed. The possible snag will be removing the hub assembly from the wheelmotor shaft as corrosion and the key may make it difficult to remove. I have had to use a special puller on several to get the hub to move off the shaft.
If you don't have a manual for your machine, get the machine model and serial numbers, go to the Scag website, in the lower left is a link for manuals, find the specific manual for your machine and download it, it is in pdf format and printable.
There is a possibility that internal problems with your wheelmotor may have caused the shaft seal to leak and you may need to replace it.
So let us know where you stand as to doing this job.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
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Thanks so much for your info. I think this job may be beyond my capabilities. I will call my scag dealer to find out if they will be willing to remove the wheel motor then I will get it repaired for their reinstall. I just hate to pay them almost $1000 to do this work......
 
Youe Scag dealer may not want to do this job and prefer to install a new wheelmotor. Having someone else repair the wheelmotor leaves them with two undesirable situations, one, the machine will be disabled and not easily moved with the wheelmotor removed while the hydraulic shop is repairing it or if the repair wasn't done correctly, then the Scag dealer has to remove it again and who pays for that??? The Scag dealer would prefer to diagnose the problem, give you an estimate, order the parts and do the job when the parts are in stock. If the wheelmotor on your machine has failed internally and caused the hydraulic system to become contaminated with metal particles, then the problem becomes much greater than initially thought.
Just some thoughts from a retired mech!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
Mad Mackie said:
Youe Scag dealer may not want to do this job and prefer to install a new wheelmotor. Having someone else repair the wheelmotor leaves them with two undesirable situations, one, the machine will be disabled and not easily moved with the wheelmotor removed while the hydraulic shop is repairing it or if the repair wasn't done correctly, then the Scag dealer has to remove it again and who pays for that??? The Scag dealer would prefer to diagnose the problem, give you an estimate, order the parts and do the job when the parts are in stock. If the wheelmotor on your machine has failed internally and caused the hydraulic system to become contaminated with metal particles, then the problem becomes much greater than initially thought.
Just some thoughts from a retired mech!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
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Yea, your right about the Scag dealer. The only part of the wheel motor removal I'm concerned about is getting the hub off. I don't have any pullers and aren't very familiar with them. If you could direct me towards a video I might get enough info to tackle the job myself or maybe take a pic of the wheel puller alternatively tell me where to get one and describe what it looks like. I really appreciate all your help.
 
Hi Ken,
This is the best that I can do.
Things that you will need:
A jack to raise up the right rear of the machine.
Sockets, open end or combination wrenches to fit all that need to be removed/disconnected.
Pliers and a Chanel Lock pliers to remove the 1 3/8" nut holding the hub onto the wheelmotor shaft.
Blocks of wood to hold the machine after jack is removed.
What to do:
If you have a digital camera, take pics as you disassemble for wheelmotor removal to assist you in reassembling. Clean the areas that you will be working around, you don't want dust/dirt getting into the hydraulic system.
With parking brake on, break loose the four wheel lug nuts, but don't remove them yet.
Jack the machine up and place wood support blocks under the machine frame support that is between the rear tire and the aft corner of the deck. This block(s) need to be large enough and long enough so they will stay in place should you move the machine while attempting to remove the hub. Let the jack down so the machine rests safely on the block(s). I have a piece of 4"X6"X12" long cut specially to do this so I have only one block.
Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin and large nut that hold the hub on.
Release the parking brake, remove the brake band and reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, put the four lug nuts back on hand tight.
While pulling on the tire as leverage, attempt to slide the hub off the wheelmotor shaft.
If this doesn't work, then remove the tire/wheel.
Using two prybars, pry under the drum of the hub and hopefully be able to remove the hub from the shaft. Remember that moving the machine while it is sitting on the block(s) can be risky and you don't want the machine to fall off the support blocks!!!
If you are successful in removing the hub, then the wheelmotor will be next. Remove the pin from the brake linkage, remove the two bolts holding the brake actuator, lay these parts aside. Mark the hoses before disconnecting them and get a drip pan to contain the hydraulic that will drain from the hoses when disconnected.
Disconnect the hoses from the wheelmotor, use two open end wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the motor and the other to turn the nut on the hose fitting. Place drip pan under wheelmotor. Cap the hoses and motor fittings.
If you get to this point successfully, then remove the two remaining bolts/nuts holding the wheelmotor onto the frame.
Reading this should have given you a headache by now!!!!
If you are still not able to remove the hub, you can still remove the wheelmotor with the brake actuator still under the hub and the hub can be removed on a press at the hydraulic shop. However this makes disconnecting the hoses a bit more difficult.
Good thing that my Tiger Cub is sitting in my shop so I can look at it as I type this to you!!! Now I need a nap, typing this is more tiring than actually doing the job!!!:laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
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Mad Mackie said:
Hi Ken,
This is the best that I can do.
Things that you will need:
A jack to raise up the right rear of the machine.
Sockets, open end or combination wrenches to fit all that need to be removed/disconnected.
Pliers and a Chanel Lock pliers to remove the 1 3/8" nut holding the hub onto the wheelmotor shaft.
Blocks of wood to hold the machine after jack is removed.
What to do:
If you have a digital camera, take pics as you disassemble for wheelmotor removal to assist you in reassembling. Clean the areas that you will be working around, you don't want dust/dirt getting into the hydraulic system.
With parking brake on, break loose the four wheel lug nuts, but don't remove them yet.
Jack the machine up and place wood support blocks under the machine frame support that is between the rear tire and the aft corner of the deck. This block(s) need to be large enough and long enough so they will stay in place should you move the machine while attempting to remove the hub. Let the jack down so the machine rests safely on the block(s). I have a piece of 4"X6"X12" long cut specially to do this so I have only one block.
Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin and large nut that hold the hub on.
Release the parking brake, remove the brake band and reinstall the tire and wheel assembly, put the four lug nuts back on hand tight.
While pulling on the tire as leverage, attempt to slide the hub off the wheelmotor shaft.
If this doesn't work, then remove the tire/wheel.
Using two prybars, pry under the drum of the hub and hopefully be able to remove the hub from the shaft. Remember that moving the machine while it is sitting on the block(s) can be risky and you don't want the machine to fall off the support blocks!!!
If you are successful in removing the hub, then the wheelmotor will be next. Remove the pin from the brake linkage, remove the two bolts holding the brake actuator, lay these parts aside. Mark the hoses before disconnecting them and get a drip pan to contain the hydraulic that will drain from the hoses when disconnected.
Disconnect the hoses from the wheelmotor, use two open end wrenches, one to hold the fitting in the motor and the other to turn the nut on the hose fitting. Place drip pan under wheelmotor. Cap the hoses and motor fittings.
If you get to this point successfully, then remove the two remaining bolts/nuts holding the wheelmotor onto the frame.
Reading this should have given you a headache by now!!!!
If you are still not able to remove the hub, you can still remove the wheelmotor with the brake actuator still under the hub and the hub can be removed on a press at the hydraulic shop. However this makes disconnecting the hoses a bit more difficult.
Good thing that my Tiger Cub is sitting in my shop so I can look at it as I type this to you!!! Now I need a nap, typing this is more tiring than actually doing the job!!!:laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
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Mad Mackie
 
Mad Mackie......I greatly appreciate your detailed procedure for removing the wheel motor from my Scag and the technical expertise you shared. It gave me the confidence to attempt the job myself. I went to my friendly auto parts store and picked up a 1 1 1/2 inch socket, yea it wasn't a 1 3/8ths, no big deal. I also rented a hub puller now that I know what they are, just in case. I followed your procedure but wasn't able to get the hub loose with just the leverage from the tire and wheel themselves so I tried the wheel puller, and although it took some force, I got the hub off. I then followed the rest of your procedure and Walla, the hub was off. I will now take the wheel motor to a local hydro shop who already acknowledged they repair these wheel motors. Thanks again, I couldn't of done this without your help......

Now, when I get the wheel motor back, is it going to be difficult to get the hub back on the wheel motor shaft, any recommendations? Also, once I connect up the hydro lines is there anything I should do to get the air out of the system? Also, should I replace the fluid or filter? Thanks again.....ken
 
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Here are some pictures, I hope they got uploaded, that show the outer bearing seal has come loose. Grass has contaminated the bearings. This seems to be a poor design on the part of the manufacturer, I wouldn't think the bearing seal could come loose so easily.
 
Hi Ken,
Great job!!
You will need to cleanup both the hub ID and the motor shaft enough so the hub will slide onto the motor shaft with minimum effort without the key installed, and a little more effort with the key installed.
You will need a half round file the round of which has a smaller curve than the hub ID and some 200 and possibly 400 grit wet or dry emery paper.
You will need to remove the key from wherever it stuck to if it didn't fall out.
With the curved part of the file, cleanup any high and or rough spots in the hub bore to include the edges of the key slot. The same needs to be done to the motor shaft with the flat side of the file and finish both with the emery paper. I sometimes cut pieces of the emery paper to fit over the curve of the file to cleanup the hub bore and cut 2" wide strips of emery paper to work the shaft.
Without the key, the hub should slide fairly easily onto the shaft with minimal effort. If the key isn't too bad, you can use the flat of the file to clean it up and reuse it.
When you are comfortable with the final fitup of the hub to the motor shaft, you can use some anti-seize compound on the shaft, install the key. When installing the key, use a softer metal on the key, then tap the soft metal.
When you get the wheelmotor back from repair, I suggest that you install, connect it, refill the hydraulic reservoir if any loss has happened, raise the machine up so the other wheel is off the ground and run the engine.
Leave the otherside travel lever out and operate this side lever by moving the lever forward until you see the wheelmotor turning, bring the lever slowly to reverse also observing the wheelmotor. Do this with the engine at idle several times while checking the oil level in the reservoir. This way, if any problems arise such as hydraulic leaks, then you don't have to remove the hub and wheel to take care of the problems. The hydraulic system should self bleed out the air as you do this.
When you are totally satisfied with the repaired side, as the both machine drive wheels will be off the ground, you can operate both drive wheels hydraulically to ensure that both sides are operating satisfactorily. Then install the hub, brake actuator, brake band and connect the brake lever linkage and check that it is operating correctly. When all this is done, install the wheel, put the machine back on the floor and go for a test run. Recheck the oil level in the reservoir.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
 
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