SAE 30 Oil vs. 10W-30 oil

The Rotella is popular for diesels, and is real common. Like I said, the only thing I say no against is 10-w-40, they may have changed it in the last 20 or so years,
but I doubt it. And there is always the long list of folks that swear by it, which makes these oil threads kinda silly.
 
Here we go again like so many times before. Ever body uses different oil and no one agrees with what is the better oil to use. I find as a repair stand point its the person that buys a new mower and thinks the oil that come with the mower new will last forever has oil problems.
 
reynoldston said:
Here we go again like so many times before. Ever body uses different oil and no one agrees with what is the better oil to use. I find as a repair stand point its the person that buys a new mower and thinks the oil that come with the mower new will last forever has oil problems.
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Right bottom line. Read your manual it'll tell you excatly what the engineers (the people who designed the engine with 8+ years of education and lots of experience) what they think is best do what they say cost wise its not going to be huge no matter what brand oil is oil as long as its a well known brand....
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I did not know that SAE30 was offered in 5 quarts. I am going to try to look for it.
That way I dont have to always buy it by the quarts.
 
Lawnboy18 said:
I am getting tired of buying the little SAE30 1 liter oil pints for my mower. Instead, I would like the big 5 liters jugs, it is less expensive and I have more.

I was thinking about getting 10W-30 instead. Would this be fine or not? It says that my mower needs SAE30 and 10W-30 when it get's colder, but it seems to me that 10W-30 would do fine and do it's job on cool mornings and when it is hot also.
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My thoughts are this; I use between sae30 or 10w40, but my mowers are a few years old now and broke in good. My church bought a new ZTR mower with a 24 hp. kawasaki and 60 inch cut. Both the dealer and owners manual recommended sae 30 only in it till around 40 to 50 hours when it is broke in good before changing to a multy-weight or synthetic, otherwise it could likely lead to using or leaking oil. I'm not quite sure what other engine manufactures recommend, but would use the 40 to 50 hour period before changing oil weights or types. I changed the original oil and filter in our kawasaki at 8 hours like recommended and it was black. I also strongly recommend chainging the filter at each oil change - cheap insurance against oil problems. Filters are cheap enough for the number of times per year they are changed. I change mine twice a year and have had no oil related problems at all, and grease everything at the same time. Just my thoughts, take with a grain of salt and use for your thoughts, wants and needs.:biggrin:
 
marvc said:
My thoughts are this; I use between sae30 or 10w40, but my mowers are a few years old now and broke in good. My church bought a new ZTR mower with a 24 hp. kawasaki and 60 inch cut. Both the dealer and owners manual recommended sae 30 only in it till around 40 to 50 hours when it is broke in good before changing to a multy-weight or synthetic, otherwise it could likely lead to using or leaking oil. I'm not quite sure what other engine manufactures recommend, but would use the 40 to 50 hour period before changing oil weights or types. I changed the original oil and filter in our kawasaki at 8 hours like recommended and it was black. I also strongly recommend chainging the filter at each oil change - cheap insurance against oil problems. Filters are cheap enough for the number of times per year they are changed. I change mine twice a year and have had no oil related problems at all, and grease everything at the same time. Just my thoughts, take with a grain of salt and use for your thoughts, wants and needs.:biggrin:
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Kohler is the same, it says to use a petroleum base oil for the first fifty hour to insure that the rings are seated properly, they don't give a specific viscosity.
 
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