Push mower oil leak Briggs

SRTsFZ6 said:
If you pay close attention, yes you can hone with the crank still installed. Your just doing a light hone for the new rings.

If you want to pull the flywheel and crank, as posted above, a puller is best.

In a pinch, you can put pressure between the block and flywheel (lifting the block slightly) and smack the "flywheel end" of the crank (use a piece of aluminum in-between so you don't damage the crank end). It should pop off fairly easily..

Once the pistons out, carefully remove the old rings and measure "ring end gap" for the compression rings. It'll give you a good idea how worn they are.

As for replacements, I don't know what / if Briggs offers oversized rings.

Worst case scenario, STANDARD new rings will be considerably tighter than the old ones and very possibly within specs

I don't have the tool for measuring the bore however you can again, get an idea measuring between the bore and piston itself to see how worn it is.. These engines will run darn near forever if even slightly maintained

* An old Dodge slant six engine I acquired from a friend would blow 5 quarts of oil out the dip stick tube within 10 miles or so.
Pulled the motor, ring end gap was 1/4". Replaced the rings (STOCK SIZE), (didn't even do a valve job) and it didn't leak / blow a drop of oil for years (BIL bought it). Compression was blowing past the rings, into the crankcase, then out the dip stick tube.
Click to expand...

Btw, HILARIOUS story on the dodge!
 
rwomack said:
Ok. What do you recommend cleaning cylinder wall with?
Click to expand...


I would think lacquer thinner then soap and water (block facing down keeping water away from the crank).

Member Boudreaux likely may have what Briggs suggests.



*And yes, the Dodge, slant six engine is a true story. Had to degrease the entire engine compartment to find it.
Didn't take long to find where the oil was coming from.. Didn't burn ANY, just an "automatic oil change" set up!
 
I would add to Boo’s reply. After you dry everything take a white paper towel and dry every surface again. If you have ANY dirt on the towel wash again. Repeat until the paper towel comes out snow white. Don’t depend on just your eyes, back when we would completely rebuild an engine a week, it was not uncommon to wash three or four times. Just a little dirt can ruin a good rebuild.
 
Ok guys. Here are some updated pics. Gonna get rings, reface the valves...took a dremel tool to intake and exhaust ports. Btw, I noticed the exhaust valve spring was longer? Didn’t expect that...
 

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Yes, some engine do have different size springs, not uncommon. SRT, I don’t think those valves have been lapped yet, just face cut. I would like to see the cylinder bore, as I see some deep scratches on the piston. Just cleaning the cylinder may not be enough, even with new rings. Looking at those rings, have you checked land or groove clearance on the piston. Piston may be too worn to just rering, might need to replace. Personally I would not try to clean the block with the crank in, just too many places for dirt to hide, which would ruin all your work. Then again I warranty my rebuilds and am extremely fussy about cleanliness. Just my opinion.
 
The two pic's of the valves, before and after, the seat was definitly cleaner than the other.

You think that was just from cleaning? No lapping?


Ok, dumb question, as he's working out of the house (I assume), what is a "Face cut"?
 
I will get ring measurements and groove once I get some feeler gauges. The valves and valve seats have not been ground yet. That was a pic when I had just pulled them. I noticed the scratches on the piston too but bore looks good. I’ll send a pic and see what you guys think.
 
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