Please Identify this Honda Mower

[furo]

Hi all, new to the forum. I just bought a Honda Harmony 215 off Craig's List today for $100. I started it up and it runs great, sounds like the smooth humming you hear when you're at an office building and the contract mowers are buzzing around outside!

Anyways, can anyone identify what engine this runs so that I can get the proper manual, and how old it is?

Is it possible to tell if it's a "GXV" commercial type engine?

Edit: could it be this? => HRM215SXA (1992-1994) 21" 4.5 hp S/P (2 speed) Mulcher BBC Poly. (Harmony)
(Frame Serial MZBB-6000001 to 6092326 and 6094478 to 6099141)
... looked up the serial on Plano Power website

Here are some pictures:

 

[bwdbrn1]

It's a GXV140 engine. If you take that red shroud off you'll find the engine's serial number on the back side of the engine block. One phillips screw and three tabs hold the round recoil cover in place, and then three 10mm nuts to remove the main shroud and recoil. You can lift the shroud up enough then to read the serial number.

You can download an owner's manual from Honda Power Equipment web site. Just use the serial number off of the deck to find the right one.

Yes, that should be a two speed, but it's missing the orange colored shift lever and the cable to change gears, and looks like the bail and cable for the clutch are missing too. Hard to tell from the picture of the upper handle, but the clutch cable is missing for sure.

You might talk with your local Honda dealer. They're a great source for parts, information and help.

This place is a good source for parts, and part diagrams to see what you need.
All Years Honda Lawnmower Parts

 

[robert@honda]

Based on the serial number, that is an HRM215(K0)SXA. It was originally wholesaled back in 1994, and the dealer it was sold to is either out of business now, or is no longer a Honda dealer.

Here's how the model name s decoded:

HR = Honda Rotary Mower
M = Mulching configuration
21 = cutting width
5 = GXV140 engine (K0 version, about 4.4 hp)
K0 = First production
S = Gear transmission/Self-propelled
X = Blade Brake Clutch ("Roto-Stop")
A = USA model

It does look like somebody has removed the controls/cables to run the self-propel/transmission, and made it a "push" model. If you want to make it self-propel again, confirm the transmission is still there, and there should be a belt connecting it to the engine crankshaft. The other missing parts (cables, levers, etc.) are probably still available from any Honda dealer.

Here are a few links:
Owner's manual: HRM215SXA Manual
Find a Dealer: Find A Honda Dealer

 

[furo]

Great help, thanks guys. I think I'll just stick to push mowing; a bit more exercise never hurt anyone right?

 

[bwdbrn1]

:thumbsup:

 

[furo]

Since I'm going to just be mulching and not buying a bag, is it recommended to buy OEM mulching blades, and the wedge to stuff in the back where the flap covers the bag-attachment compartment? I noticed a buildup of grass in that compartment area from a few minutes of trying it out prior to buying it yesterday.

And wow, 1994... that's a hell of a lifespan for a single engine. I saw a small sticker on the mower indicating that at one time, someone serviced/rebuilt the engine but I have no idea if any major changes were made. Probably just belt or carb replacement, etc, I dunno

Just for reference/comparison's sake, what would be the equivalent commerical-type engine built and sold by Honda today, in terms of performance, power, and reliability?

 

[robert@honda]

Since I'm going to just be mulching and not buying a bag, is it recommended to buy OEM mulching blades, and the wedge to stuff in the back where the flap covers the bag-attachment compartment? I noticed a buildup of grass in that compartment area from a few minutes of trying it out prior to buying it yesterday.

And wow, 1994... that's a hell of a lifespan for a single engine. I saw a small sticker on the mower indicating that at one time, someone serviced/rebuilt the engine but I have no idea if any major changes were made. Probably just belt or carb replacement, etc, I dunno

Just for reference/comparison's sake, what would be the equivalent commerical-type engine built and sold by Honda today, in terms of performance, power, and reliability?

To mulch, for sure, you need the mulching plug ("stuffing") to block off the discharge and keep the clippings inside the deck. After a few spins around on those twin blades, the clippings will almost turn to powder. If you need a new one, the part number is 76266-VE2-000ZA, list price $15.74

Most Honda mowers sold today use a GCV-series engine. These do not have individual cylinder heads and blocks, but instead use a diagonal split-block design. Both the vertical and horizontal version share many parts, and while they lack the cast-iron cylinder sleeves, for residential operators, they will last a lifetime. Your mower was built right about the time the GCV engine were first being developed, and it was originally engineered to use the GXV engine. Today, only Honda commercial mowers use commercial engines.

 

[furo]

^ Great, thanks, I just placed an order for the mulching plug ($25 after shipping) and I guess the mower already has at least one mulching blade on it.

Both blades look rusted like crazy but the guy who fixed up the mower and sold it to me said unless I'm a mowing pro, I'll probably not notice any difference between a brand new blade and the one that's there. He also suggested taking the twin blades off and flipping them upside down and that may do the same job as getting new blades.

Of course, the guy also told me that an equivalent Honda purchased new today would run me upwards of $300 (he sold this to me for $100) so was he just telling me all this to get a quick sale?

 

[robert@honda]

^ Great, thanks, I just placed an order for the mulching plug ($25 after shipping) and I guess the mower already has at least one mulching blade on it.

Both blades look rusted like crazy but the guy who fixed up the mower and sold it to me said unless I'm a mowing pro, I'll probably not notice any difference between a brand new blade and the one that's there. He also suggested taking the twin blades off and flipping them upside down and that may do the same job as getting new blades.

Of course, the guy also told me that an equivalent Honda purchased new today would run me upwards of $300 (he sold this to me for $100) so was he just telling me all this to get a quick sale?

1. For best performance, use the original twin blades Honda engineers designed for the mower. If you were bagging, a single blade would be okay, but for best mulching performance, use the twin-blades. The owner's manual has a detailed procedure to remove/install the blades:
Honda Part Numbers:
Upper (narrow): 72531VE2-010 ($12.98)
Lower (wide): 72511-VG4-K00 ($12.98)

If the blades are just rusted, and not cracked, bent, or show other damage, they can be sharpened and work good as new. Might be a little cheaper than buying new blades, depends on the shop. A lot are VERY busy this time of year, so it may be faster/easier just to buy and install new ones yourself.

2. A similar model Honda new would be more like $400-$500 new. You have the desirable commercial engine, as well as the blade clutch option. Assuming the transmission still works, a few other levers and a cable might get it self-propelling again. Even if you had to drop another $50 in parts, a lot less than buying new for sure.

3. NEVER flip the blades. They are curved to lift (suck up) the grass and cut it. Flipping 'em would cause air to blow down on the grass, flattening it, and would end up with really, really crummy cut / finish on the lawn. There's also the risk they blades could strike the inside of the deck if installed wrong. This would ruin your day, and could even bend the crankshaft of the engine. :frown:

 

[furo]

Thanks. I noticed it's quite a bit heavier than my Craftsman that I junked for this mower, but even still, I'm hoping that pushing it around will just be a little workout rather than a major pita. I guess if it turns out to be a burden I'll look into getting the SP working again..

Good advice on the blades, I'll just leave them as is if they don't looked cracked or bent, and see how they do after a yard's worth.