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2006 Lazer Z , bought used and time for an oil change. Newer models have oil drain hose, this year has just the oil plug. 27HP Kohler. Thanks, Tim

Lots of luck on not making a mess. I find making a trough from a old oil bottle some times helps. I don't know why but some times the manufactures just don't make changing oil a easy job.

MasterT said:

Newer models have oil drain hose, this year has just the oil plug.

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WELCOME to LMF...

If the drain plug is a standard thread size & you have a clear routing area, either get the new model drain hose' OR have a low pressure hydraulic hose made up using the correct hose ends and proper length... put a cap on the end and you will be set for Many oil changes....
The lowest pressure hydraulic hose you can buy will be made with components that engine oil & heat will not harm... It will last a lifetime, and with a cap screwed on the end it will never "accidentally" drain the engine.. :smile:KennyV

An oil withdrawal unit is what you need to keep oil spilling to a minimum. The suction tube goes into the dipstick tube, the withdrawal tank has a vacuum pump and the oil is sucked out of the engine. I also have plastic drain pans cut specifically to fit under the oil filters on my various machines so changing the oil filter doesn't make a mess.
Most or all newer small engines have a low point formed into the housing where the dip stick tube mounts so oil can be withdrawn from the engine and get 95% or more of it out with the suction tube from an oil withdrawal system. They start at about $40 and go up from there depending on how fancy of a machine you desire. I use the same unit to evacuate oil from the engines and transmissions in my vehicles. The oil is captured in a six liter container that is easily drained into a larger container for disposal. The suction tube is long so I hang it up and let it drain into a pan when I'm thru using it.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin:

Mad Mackie said:

An oil withdrawal unit is what you need to keep oil spilling to a minimum. The suction tube goes into the dipstick tube, the withdrawal tank has a vacuum pump and the oil is sucked out of the engine. I also have plastic drain pans cut specifically to fit under the oil filters on my various machines so changing the oil filter doesn't make a mess.
Most or all newer small engines have a low point formed into the housing where the dip stick tube mounts so oil can be withdrawn from the engine and get 95% or more of it out with the suction tube from an oil withdrawal system. They start at about $40 and go up from there depending on how fancy of a machine you desire. I use the same unit to evacuate oil from the engines and transmissions in my vehicles. The oil is captured in a six liter container that is easily drained into a larger container for disposal. The suction tube is long so I hang it up and let it drain into a pan when I'm thru using it.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin:

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Those are sweet indeed!:thumbsup: You can set them up to draw the oil out, do something else for a couple of minutes, come back, and it's done.

On the cheesy spring loaded push and turn drains, I just as a matter of course change back to what ever length 3/8" pipe nipple and cap it takes to clear the frame. Most of my oil changes end up being a bit of a mess, but it's only every 50 hrs of operating time.

Just do it out in the driveway. I wouldn't worry about making a mess. If you spill anything just sweep it away and it will dry up. Last time I did an oil change i just drained into a bucket and then when I was all done I ended up kicking the bucket over by accident. Until that happened I only had spilled a few drips. If you don't knock over your container you'll be fine.

Last spring I bought a new John Deere ZTR and I was surprised at how easy it was to change the oil and filter.
It has a pipe screwed into the crankcase with a spigot on the end I slid a pan under it open the spigot and drain into the pan then slide pan to other side and change the oil filter.
Fast easy and did not spill a drop. :thumbsup:
They could all do this if they really cared about making it easy to service.

crazyoldtractor said:

Just do it out in the driveway. I wouldn't worry about making a mess. If you spill anything just sweep it away and it will dry up. Last time I did an oil change i just drained into a bucket and then when I was all done I ended up kicking the bucket over by accident. Until that happened I only had spilled a few drips. If you don't knock over your container you'll be fine.

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Who would want oil spilled in their driveway? I change oil in my shop and find in the repair business that spilling oil sometimes can't be helped. Broken hydraulic lines can also make a good mess or anti freeze. Yes I have also spilled the whole bucket by accident. I dry my spills up with saw dust. I find that if I work the sawdust into the spilled whatever with a rag it will dry it right up. Then just sweep up the whole mess and throw into the trash.

I appreciate the responses. When I change the oil in my trucks I put some heavy paper down first. Bought a roll of heavy construction paper like they use a schools. Seems like there is always drips or I miss the oil drain pan when the oil plug comes out. The heavy paper soaks up the spills and then can be easily discarded.

I drive on to big cardboard boxes that I can get for free from places that sell appliances to change oil on all my mowers, trucks and tractors.
Any oil spilled on the cardboard wipes up easily with a rag so the same cardboard can be used for months.
It's also nice when the cardboard isn't under the vehicle tires that you can pull the cardboard out with all your tools, rags and drain pan at once instead of crawling under.

The cheap dollar tree kitty litter works great for oil type spills just sweep it up and throw it out

Always have a oil drain pan ready to go under the lawnmower to catch the draining oil. It is a messy job but, if done carefully, the mess will be limited to just a few drops on the garage floor.

Can anyone tell me if any brand of oil filter allows the oil to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is stopped? To me the biggest mess is the oil running down off the oil filter while I unscrew the old one.

BWH said:

Can anyone tell me if any brand of oil filter allows the oil to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is stopped? To me the biggest mess is the oil running down off the oil filter while I unscrew the old one.

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The anti drain back valve is not installed in filters just to make filter changes messy...
:smile:KennyV

Oil filter removal means dripping oil!!!! I have an assortment of small pans both metal and plastic. Some are modified to fit a particular machine/engine to catch the dripping oil.
I'm a retired aircraft mech and letting oil drip on aircraft particularly the engine area is a "no no"!!! If you can get access, you can punch two holes in the oil filter with an ice pick or similar tool, one hole at the 12 o'clock position and turn the filter 180 degrees and punch another hole usually before the filter is loose enough to drip oil. Do this in the "flats" on the end of the filter away from the engine. Catch this oil in a small pan and let the filter drip until the drip stops, then remove the filter with minimal dripping. An aircraft specialty tool company makes a tool that is a large hose clamp with a nut spot welded to it. Thru this nut is a hollow needle type screw that by tightening will puncture an oil filter and it will drain thru the screw with a small diameter hose connected to it. You need to do this with a hot engine so the oil will drain freely!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:

I alway thought that having something to clean part of the job. If we make it look too easy our wives will think we are having fun :laughing:

KennyV said:

The anti drain back valve is not installed in filters just to make filter changes messy...
:smile:KennyV

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Thats Funny/Sad/True all in one sentence. Could be these design engineers actually own controling intrest in the oil dry companies! :smile:

Most piston engine aircraft manufacturers use remote oil filter assemblys with the filter installed facing straight up which reduces the dripping oil problem.
But with power equipment small engines remote oil filters are rare. With vertical shaft engines, the oil filter is almost always installed in a horizontal position and with V belts and clutches directly under the engines one must take precautionary measures when removing oil filters to catch the dripping oil, it is just a fact of life with small engine maintenance.
Mad Mackie in CT :biggrin::laughing:

I used a filter relocation kit on my Bad Boy Zero Turn and moved the filter to the rear engine guard. It was an easy relocate but the kit is a little pricey at about $113.00 but if you hate oil all over your mower like I do, it is worth it. My mower also came with a drain hose from the engine out the back of the mower. I didn't like the nut they put on the end of the hose so I put a ball valve on the hose with a nut in the end of the valve, just in case it should get hit and open the valve. My engine is a Kohler 27 hp Courage Pro and the web site is opeengines.com.

At Home Depot you can purchase a Siphon for a mere $11.00. These are red in color and work very well at cleaning the oil out of your crankcase. I used one on my Sears Craftsman Honda Engine mower with great results. Filled the rankcase up with new oil and I was set. 50smower

:frown:

BWH said:

Can anyone tell me if any brand of oil filter allows the oil to drain back into the crankcase when the engine is stopped? To me the biggest mess is the oil running down off the oil filter while I unscrew the old one.

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You are going to have some kind of mess! Whether it being a lot of oil on the floor or a very little oil on the floor. Just remember to put a catch basin underneath the oil filter to catch any oil dripping down. After the oil stops dripping, you can unscrew further until it drops off. This is the the way it is.

I have a tray I use goes under the filter and other end sit in a bucket.

Came up with this because working on the river pumping sand had to change oil and not get any in the water.

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))

I just did mine. Hustler put the engine in sideways the filter is simple has an oil catch under the filter to funnel where it drips and also the petcock is very nice , no hose needed.
They thought oil changes out really well.

For my cars I use a big 2ft x 3ft drip pan from most automotive stores cheap easy way to keep oil off the driveway.

Tom59 said:

I just did mine. Hustler put the engine in sideways the filter is simple has an oil catch under the filter to funnel where it drips and also the petcock is very nice , no hose needed.
They thought oil changes out really well.

For my cars I use a big 2ft x 3ft drip pan from most automotive stores cheap easy way to keep oil off the driveway.

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The VERY WORST engine design for oil changes I ever witnessed was when my son bought a 1995 Pontiac Grand AM!!! The oil filter was a "cannister element type" that went inside the "oil pan" which had a very large plug that was unscrewed to replace the filter....AND/OR....for just changing the oil. There was absolutely NO WAY you could keep oil from getting all over you and everywhere!!!! The engineers that designed that engine should have been tarred & feathered and run out of town:0)

My Bad Boy came with a drain hose with a plug in the end. I replaced the plug with a ball valve and plugged the valve so it could not accidentally be turned while running. I then bought a filter relocation kit for my Kohler 27 Hp and placed it on the rear shield away from the engine. They both work great and not a drop of oil where I don't want it.

djdicetn said:

The VERY WORST engine design for oil changes I ever witnessed was when my son bought a 1995 Pontiac Grand AM!!! The oil filter was a "cannister element type" that went inside the "oil pan" which had a very large plug that was unscrewed to replace the filter....AND/OR....for just changing the oil. There was absolutely NO WAY you could keep oil from getting all over you and everywhere!!!! The engineers that designed that engine should have been tarred & feathered and run out of town:0)

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Maybe they were? :wink:

I know one of the Cadilacs had a 8 or 10 quart engine that was an expensive oil change. Northstar iirc.

This is when you work in oil changes into the cars price.