Yes, the duct tape"fix" is definitely pretty redneck but without knowing how much longer the tractor is going to make it up that hill, it just don't seem to make sense to spend money on a new steering shaft, especially since I don't know if that slight wear on it is the actual problem. I wondered if replacing the pulleys would solve the belt slipping problem because the engine still runs great and if that would get me a few more years it would be worth it. I just don't understand if the pulleys are worn then why did the old belt not slip which makes me hesitant to replace them
new steering gear getting chewed up
- Thread starter bigjake
- Start date
What you might consider doing to get by:
I heard you say you bought a correct part number OEM belt.
We do not know if it's the belt slipping or the transaxle yet. You say the drive belt was hot to the touch and you could smell rubber burning maybe.
You might take a piece of string or similar that does not stretch and measure the OD of the old belt you cut. Remove the new belt which is probably already stretched and worn some and compare their lengths. I do this BEFORE installing new belts. I use a upholstery cloth tape measure for such, dirt cheap from wal mart. If they are the same length and the old belt was not slipping as much the new belt may have slightly different v pattern.???
But when I've seen issues such as yours I look for a belt that is slightly shorter by 1/2 to 1 inch and I do not buy a high dollar premium priced belt. In some instance I've even went to same length belt but instead of a 1/2 inch wide use a 5/8 wide.
If that is a hydrostatic drive with the clutch/brake pedal it needs to be checked that it's moving freely underneath and the two zig zag idlers pulleys for the clutch section are in good shape and their bearings not seizing. I tried to look at a parts diagram on-line but seen lots of NLA info for a 2007 JD140. If you hear a hydraulic squeal or noise when it's slipping it's a hint it's the hydrostatic transaxle. No squeal or noise most likely just drive belt slipping.
I sometimes lightly spray belt dressing on a belt just to see if it helps. (I really do not like to use the sticky nasty stuff other than for just a quick test.
Also make sure the the brake pucks are not seizing and keeping the brake slightly applied especially right after the clutch/brake has been applied.
I heard you say you bought a correct part number OEM belt.
We do not know if it's the belt slipping or the transaxle yet. You say the drive belt was hot to the touch and you could smell rubber burning maybe.
You might take a piece of string or similar that does not stretch and measure the OD of the old belt you cut. Remove the new belt which is probably already stretched and worn some and compare their lengths. I do this BEFORE installing new belts. I use a upholstery cloth tape measure for such, dirt cheap from wal mart. If they are the same length and the old belt was not slipping as much the new belt may have slightly different v pattern.???
But when I've seen issues such as yours I look for a belt that is slightly shorter by 1/2 to 1 inch and I do not buy a high dollar premium priced belt. In some instance I've even went to same length belt but instead of a 1/2 inch wide use a 5/8 wide.
If that is a hydrostatic drive with the clutch/brake pedal it needs to be checked that it's moving freely underneath and the two zig zag idlers pulleys for the clutch section are in good shape and their bearings not seizing. I tried to look at a parts diagram on-line but seen lots of NLA info for a 2007 JD140. If you hear a hydraulic squeal or noise when it's slipping it's a hint it's the hydrostatic transaxle. No squeal or noise most likely just drive belt slipping.
I sometimes lightly spray belt dressing on a belt just to see if it helps. (I really do not like to use the sticky nasty stuff other than for just a quick test.
Also make sure the the brake pucks are not seizing and keeping the brake slightly applied especially right after the clutch/brake has been applied.
Last edited:
Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately, I no longer have the old belt to do the length comparison gain. I did do basically what you are suggesting when I first installed the belt a couple months ago and it was slipping. I measured the old belt with a piece of string. I didnt take the new belt off the tractor to measure, I used painters tape to tape the string to the new belt and rotated the belt around the pulleys by hand, taping the string on every 12" or so. Doing that the new belt acutally seemed slightly shorter. It had the same V shape as the old belt. Yes, it is a hydrostatic transmission. I'll have to confirm tomorrow, but I don't think there is any squeal at all. I previoulsy confirmed the tensioner is moving the full distance and all pulleys rotate freely but will do so again tomorrow. The belt number is GX2006. The part number is stamped right on the belt, so I know I received the correct belt. Onlines specs say it is 1/2" x 88.898". How would I go about finding a shorter/wider belt?
bertsmobile1
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At those hours your transmission is probably on it's last legs
They start to fail at about 1000 hrs & it is rare to find one running well over 2000 hrs
For some reason known only to JD they get their drives full of 10w40 rather then the 20w50 that hydogear specifies for those units.
IF it is not howling when you engage the drive then you can get another 1 to 5 years out of it by draining the oil & replacing it
You might get even more use if you buy the hydrogear maintanance kit which has oil + filters
Not trying to be aggressive or nasty but if you have allowed the steering shaft to wear to the point that a single layer of duct tape around the shaft in a new bush can turn, the mower has been abused , both the bushes are supposed to be oiled and from memory JD even put the schedule on a sticker under the hood so all the clots who can not read a manual will see it every time they check the oil .
Now the cheap & nasty test for a hydro motor is to park the mower on a slope ,turn off the engine, release the brake and give it a gentle push.
A new hydro will resist moving and one wheel may even lock & slide
A slightly worn hydro will move with resistance then slow or stop when you stop pushing
A stuffed hydro will take off like Mulga Bills Bicycle the instant you get off even before you push it
The latter can be repaired with a new pump/motor unit which is about 1/4 the price of a new transmission .
The oil is supposed to be replaced but no one ever does it .
If the rest of you mower has been allowed to wear as bad as the steering then it is now most likely junk so for you the best bet is to by another mower .
There is a lot more to maintaining a mower than changing the engine oil & filters but that is about the limit of the "I do my own maintenance " crowd
There is a reason why it takes me 4 hours to do a full service & that is not because I move very slow .
They start to fail at about 1000 hrs & it is rare to find one running well over 2000 hrs
For some reason known only to JD they get their drives full of 10w40 rather then the 20w50 that hydogear specifies for those units.
IF it is not howling when you engage the drive then you can get another 1 to 5 years out of it by draining the oil & replacing it
You might get even more use if you buy the hydrogear maintanance kit which has oil + filters
Not trying to be aggressive or nasty but if you have allowed the steering shaft to wear to the point that a single layer of duct tape around the shaft in a new bush can turn, the mower has been abused , both the bushes are supposed to be oiled and from memory JD even put the schedule on a sticker under the hood so all the clots who can not read a manual will see it every time they check the oil .
Now the cheap & nasty test for a hydro motor is to park the mower on a slope ,turn off the engine, release the brake and give it a gentle push.
A new hydro will resist moving and one wheel may even lock & slide
A slightly worn hydro will move with resistance then slow or stop when you stop pushing
A stuffed hydro will take off like Mulga Bills Bicycle the instant you get off even before you push it
The latter can be repaired with a new pump/motor unit which is about 1/4 the price of a new transmission .
The oil is supposed to be replaced but no one ever does it .
If the rest of you mower has been allowed to wear as bad as the steering then it is now most likely junk so for you the best bet is to by another mower .
There is a lot more to maintaining a mower than changing the engine oil & filters but that is about the limit of the "I do my own maintenance " crowd
There is a reason why it takes me 4 hours to do a full service & that is not because I move very slow .
Your question:
. How would I go about finding a shorter/wider belt?
You do not need a part number
I try two things.
Go to fleece bay and type in the size belt you are considering. (for example 1/2 inch wide x 88 inches long0 search, then look at prices, then NEXT on the right side upper select on the drop down box instead of best match select, price + shipping lowest first.
The 1/2 inch wide x 88 long happens to also be a 4L880. At around $10.
You would do the same thing for a 5/8 wide belt but usually stay with the same length. (88.5-90 inch) because the 5/8 wide belt rides higher in the pulleys and will act like a shorter belt. You will have to be your own judge about if the 5/8 belt will stay in the existing v-groove DRIVE pulleys. Usually they will with good belt guides and if the existing 1/2 inch wide belt rides low in the v-grooves.
OR just type in the size you are considering into the browser search bar and select site choices.
You have to not expect a $10 V belt to last as long as a $40-60 OEM JD belt or a Kevlar belt, you are just testing to see if you can get by without spending big bucks replacing your pulleys that probably have worn out deep v-grooves and the OEM belt is no longer operating properly due to a worn out machine.. If the cheapo belt gives you better operation write down the size and length and when it starts wearing out go to a better made belt of that length. If the old worn out tractor is still going. Measure the new belts length when it arrives to make sure that it's size is as stated.
I have accumulated a big piles of v-belts over the years and have them labeled with width and length sizes, so when I'm testing by changing belts I do not often have to buy a new belt.
I've found that on some mowers that just a 1/2 inch difference in the length of a v-belt is all that is needed for a problem correction.
. How would I go about finding a shorter/wider belt?
You do not need a part number
I try two things.
Go to fleece bay and type in the size belt you are considering. (for example 1/2 inch wide x 88 inches long0 search, then look at prices, then NEXT on the right side upper select on the drop down box instead of best match select, price + shipping lowest first.
The 1/2 inch wide x 88 long happens to also be a 4L880. At around $10.
You would do the same thing for a 5/8 wide belt but usually stay with the same length. (88.5-90 inch) because the 5/8 wide belt rides higher in the pulleys and will act like a shorter belt. You will have to be your own judge about if the 5/8 belt will stay in the existing v-groove DRIVE pulleys. Usually they will with good belt guides and if the existing 1/2 inch wide belt rides low in the v-grooves.
OR just type in the size you are considering into the browser search bar and select site choices.
You have to not expect a $10 V belt to last as long as a $40-60 OEM JD belt or a Kevlar belt, you are just testing to see if you can get by without spending big bucks replacing your pulleys that probably have worn out deep v-grooves and the OEM belt is no longer operating properly due to a worn out machine.. If the cheapo belt gives you better operation write down the size and length and when it starts wearing out go to a better made belt of that length. If the old worn out tractor is still going. Measure the new belts length when it arrives to make sure that it's size is as stated.
I have accumulated a big piles of v-belts over the years and have them labeled with width and length sizes, so when I'm testing by changing belts I do not often have to buy a new belt.
I've found that on some mowers that just a 1/2 inch difference in the length of a v-belt is all that is needed for a problem correction.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Like Forest , I have a stock pile of around 300 OEM spec belts so for some sizes I can go in 1/4" increments .
A dealer has to use the correct parts so when a pulley is worn to the point it has a smaller effective diameter thay have to replace the pulley
I can just use a shorter belt
But a shorter belt will not overcome a worn out hydro pump or motor
A dealer has to use the correct parts so when a pulley is worn to the point it has a smaller effective diameter thay have to replace the pulley
I can just use a shorter belt
But a shorter belt will not overcome a worn out hydro pump or motor
I'll do the hill test tomorrow and see where I stand
OK, so this is what I found today. First I did the transmission hill test. I wasn't sure what level of slope you meant to use so I did a few different slopes. First I did it onthe back yard hill that is giving me problems trying to come up. First test was on the right side, where the tractor is sitting if you zoom in. I let off the brake and the tractor very slowly rolled all the way down the hill to the shed. I did not have to push it to get it started. But it was pretty slow, maybe 3 mph that I just slowly walked beside it. Next I did the left side of the hill next to the tree. It doesn't really show in the picture but that side is much steeper. I expected it would roll much faster, but it just rolled down at the same slow speed. Then I went to the side yard, a little less steep. This time I had to push it to get it moving. It went about 10 feet and stopped. Then I went to the driveway which has just a very slight slope (yes, I know the driveway needs powerwashed, it's on my list). I could not get it to move at all in the driveway. What does this tell you about the condition of the transmission?
Next I drove it up the steeper left side of the back hill to check for a squeal. I was able to drive up 3 times without any problems. It didn't slip at all. At this point I should mention that I always cut the back hill last. So I cut all the other grass then tried going up the back hill and now it got only half way up the left side. There was a squeal but I'm pretty sure it was the belt squealing. I tried looking underneath to see if the transmission pulley was turning when it squealed, but couldn't see. I did notice, looking through the slot for the gear shift that when it squealed, the fan on top of the transmission slowed down. The belt turns the fan right? so if the belt is slipping, the fan will be slower? So I deduced from that, that while I'm cutting the front yard, the belt is getting hot and it only slips when it gets hot (and expands?)
So next I pulled it in the garage to check underneath and I may have found the problem or at least part of the problem. First a question - The first thing I noticed is there appears to be virtually no clearance between the belt and the guide (circled in yellow). It looks like the belt is slightly rubbing the guide. Notice the slight fraying of the outer edge of the belt. Is that lack of clearance normal? How can I fix that? Next I removed the idler pulleys and discovered that the flat pulley spins (not quite as well as I would expect), but the V pulley turns freely but does not spin. I don't know how I missed this when I replaced the belt...I thought sure that I checked the pulleys then. So I'm going to order new pulleys. I checked the numbers on the pulleys to see if maybe they were the wrong pulleys which might explain the lack of clearance with the belt guide, but both pulleys have the same number GX20153? The numbers on the parts diagram are GX20287 and GX20286. Do you think the drag created by the pulleys going bad is enough to cause the belt slipping problem?
Also, there is an adjusting nut behind the spring on the transmission linkage circled in blue. How would I know if this nut might need adjusted one way ot the other? Could it have anything to do with my issue?
Next I drove it up the steeper left side of the back hill to check for a squeal. I was able to drive up 3 times without any problems. It didn't slip at all. At this point I should mention that I always cut the back hill last. So I cut all the other grass then tried going up the back hill and now it got only half way up the left side. There was a squeal but I'm pretty sure it was the belt squealing. I tried looking underneath to see if the transmission pulley was turning when it squealed, but couldn't see. I did notice, looking through the slot for the gear shift that when it squealed, the fan on top of the transmission slowed down. The belt turns the fan right? so if the belt is slipping, the fan will be slower? So I deduced from that, that while I'm cutting the front yard, the belt is getting hot and it only slips when it gets hot (and expands?)
So next I pulled it in the garage to check underneath and I may have found the problem or at least part of the problem. First a question - The first thing I noticed is there appears to be virtually no clearance between the belt and the guide (circled in yellow). It looks like the belt is slightly rubbing the guide. Notice the slight fraying of the outer edge of the belt. Is that lack of clearance normal? How can I fix that? Next I removed the idler pulleys and discovered that the flat pulley spins (not quite as well as I would expect), but the V pulley turns freely but does not spin. I don't know how I missed this when I replaced the belt...I thought sure that I checked the pulleys then. So I'm going to order new pulleys. I checked the numbers on the pulleys to see if maybe they were the wrong pulleys which might explain the lack of clearance with the belt guide, but both pulleys have the same number GX20153? The numbers on the parts diagram are GX20287 and GX20286. Do you think the drag created by the pulleys going bad is enough to cause the belt slipping problem?
Also, there is an adjusting nut behind the spring on the transmission linkage circled in blue. How would I know if this nut might need adjusted one way ot the other? Could it have anything to do with my issue?
Attachments
I meant that I stuck my finger thru the bearing on the flat pulley and the pulley would actually spin freely. When I did that with the V pulley, it can manually be turned without really feeling like it's binding but it does not spin freely, so the bearing is bad.