Mikuni Carburetor (Subaru Part 279-62361-00) on an Subaru EX27 Engine

Have you re-searched a replacement carb?

Before working on a small engine like for pressure washers and small 2 cycle engines that have SUSPECTED carb issues I re-search replacement carbs, kits, etc BEFORE taking them apart. I then know if I'm holding a expensive carb, NLA carb dinosaur egg, or a easily replaceable part.
Sometimes a carb can be found for $20 or less with free shipping, free return warranty if don't work ok.

If a replacement carb works ok I sometimes then try to get the bad one to work as a spare. At least I know that is actually a bad carb.

On yours I would start running the suspected clogged jet in a USonic with heated water and use compressed air. I've seen some that orffice is smaller than a tag wire and US and compressed air would eventually get it..
 
pstrickey said:
I have a Dewalt Pressure Washer (DS3532) with a Subaru EX270D503618590 Engine with a Mikuni Carburetor (Foam type) that was surging so I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned it. After I reinstalled the carburetor it was still surging so I did some more research (this forum is great with a wealth of information!) and looked at youtube videos. I have two questions:
* The main jet (correct term??) in the tube that is normally unscrewed to remove the jet and then able to clean the tiny holes on the side appears to be pressed into place and cannot be removed. I have not been able to find out if this tube should be removed to clean further, or not. Any thoughts?
* The pilot jet I removed and cleaned the side & top holes but I could not tell if there should be a tiny hole at the bottom of the pilot jet to clean. If there is supposed to be a tiny hole here mine is clogged and I have soaked it in a sonic cleaner but still not able to find a hole. Any thoughts?
Pictures are below and hopefully this will help more than my misidentifications!

Thanks again for your help!
Paul
Click to expand...
Also..those holes in the side of the jet are air bleed holes to enhance emulsification of the fuel drawn thru the jet bottom. Make sure the air passages are clear as well.
 
Hey PS, and all other diy folfs, the best way to clean any brass jets or needle seats besides replacing is to purchase a can of gm x66-1/12302500 carb tune up condition clearer, hard to find so get the spray can from Ford or GM parts department. It is a spray but when put into a half cut aluminun can like a beer type can it will turn into a liquid state. Just about 3/8 inch spray after bubbles are gone, put jets into can, heat from bottom of can like pot on a stove, it will bubble and make some vapor but will not explode, small boil is best. If it does fire up it's only like a sterno flame. About 3 mins. done, more if needed. Nice and clean. Blow out jets. Always replace intake gaskets. This is a 95% fix. Then do any carb adjusting. Cleaner also heated will help remove hard stuck jets by dripping into jet bore after bowl is removed, let it soak in about 5/10 mins before trying to remove. Tell us results if you try this. I've been doing this for 30 years with great results. Work on all brass crabs, autos too!
 
Forgot to mention that some parts stores might sell this but I get it at local GM dealer and Ford dealers parts dept. About 25.00$ but last for a year or 2 depending on usage. It is reusable so just put into a small glass bottle with tight lid for another cleaning.
 
Think we can slow down on all the "wonder" "ultra" "maximum overdrive" cleaners.

Good ol' Diesel works perfect to clean carbs and any oily/greasy parts. Little fishing line or bread tie wire is all you need. Some shop air and SAFETY GLASSES. Diesel even at today's inflated price gouging price is cheaper than any spray can of the week wonder spray. Single gallon of Diesel will last years for parts cleaning.
 
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