It’s my time to ask for help.

Rivets said:
You are correct, but I would like to keep it original if at all possible. Problem I’m having is that no one seems to have seen this engine. Sent an email to Kawasaki, but haven’t heard from them yet. If I don’t hear back in a couple of days, I’m going to give them a call and ask for the oldest fart in tech services. Personally this is the first Power Mate generator I’ve seen with a Kawasaki engine on it.
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Unless the points bolt directly to the condenser , or it is a capacitor discharge system you can put just about any radio shack one in there
We regularly replace the caps in our Lucas magnetos with a modern ceramic one rated between 150nF & 220nF
If the cap has gone open circuit then you can run a test one in parallel
 
Rivets said:
Yes, I’m pretty sure that it’s either the points floating or condenser going bad. Looking for some specs, point gap, and parts list. Manual does not seem to be there.
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Highly unlikely that points are 'floating' I haven't heard that term since the '60's and 8500 RPM. Gap at 0.028 after filing them flat.
 
Rivets said:
You are correct, but I would like to keep it original if at all possible. Problem I’m having is that no one seems to have seen this engine. Sent an email to Kawasaki, but haven’t heard from them yet. If I don’t hear back in a couple of days, I’m going to give them a call and ask for the oldest fart in tech services. Personally this is the first Power Mate generator I’ve seen with a Kawasaki engine on it.
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I have a PowerMate small genset that has a Kawasaki engine in it. I bought it from Northern Tool quite some time ago. As I remember,it was an extra cost upgrade over the Briggs standard engine. don't think it came with an engine section in the owner's manual,though.
I need to thank you,Rivets,for prodding/reminding me that I hadn't given my little genset any attention since the last time I had it running last Spring. Before starting it,I checked the oil and thought,well,I'd give the air cleaner a look. Turns out this was a good thing,a very,very good thing to do! The foam air filter had turned to crumbly mush. Starting the genset would have sucked this mess into the carb,causing no telling what issues. Not good. I wish I could help with the ignition issue you're having,but my Kawasaki has solid state ignition. IMG_5641.JPG
 
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Fish, those look like the points I may need, but not at that$$$$.
Bert & Gord. I’ve gotten down to the points and condenser and found the points burnt and pitted. Points were set around .016” before I removed them. Seeing how badly burnt they were, I’m going to take the condenser to an old friend of mine (electronics instructor) who says he has a machine to check the capacitance. I know I’ve got a few old condensers to compare them to. I’ve sent emails to both Kawasaki and PowerMate, so will be waiting a few days for possible answers. Thank you to all who’ve taken time to help me out and I’ll keep you posted. Rivets
 
Riv, do these look like they're for the KF34DU? this info may be irreleveant now though, it appears you're on the right track.
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Rivets said:
This past weekend a friend dropped off a 30 year old Coleman/PowerMate generator and asked me to get it running. Unit is in excellent condition for its age and when I pulled the carb it was sparkling clean. After checking everything out and putting in fresh fuel I was able to get it running, but extremely rough. In-line spark tester tells me I have an ignition problem. That’s where my problem lies, point unit. I’m unable to find any info on this unit. If anyone call point me to an owners and/ or parts manual I’d be very appreciated. Unit model number and engine numbers are on the attached pic. Hoping someone can help me before I have to contact Coleman/PowerMate and Kawasaki. Thank you in advance, Rivets.
cid:2EDF053E-2356-43FF-B304-05338A6263C9
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If a metal capped/covered plug connector that mounts to the base of the plug, it probably has a cracked insulator internal and the arc is coming out that insulator to the metal shield then to the base of the plug, never reaching the gap intermittently. A common problem caused by wiggling the thing off.
 
The cylinderical caps are tar paper & aluminium foil have a set life , even when sitting on the shelf.
The side points BSA motorcycle use a cap as the mounting point for the points and it is not uncommon to find only 1 in 10 brand new ones to still be good .
One big reason why I try to convince owners to swap to electronic ignitions
The ceramic ones have a shelf life of around 40 years.
Very hard to tell some one who just paid $ 50 for a NOS cap that it was dead before the fitted it.
If they insist on using points then I fit an old open circuit one ( most fail that way ) then go the auto store and buy the cap they sell the most of then run it parallel with the old one.
 
The engine is a FZ130D-_SO3. It is doubtful that you will find very many OEM parts. What parts are you looking for. I can at least give you the original part number.
 
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