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Hustler Raptor SD Discharge Trouble

#1

N

NorthernTown

Hi,

First post on this forum and am wondering if anyone has had the trouble I'm having. I purchased my first Hustler mower this spring, a brand new Raptor SD 54" and am very disappointed with the deck as far as the discharge chute plugging up and the grass hanging up in the deck, which in turn makes a poor cut. I called the dealer and he tried saying the grass was too wet, I was mowing too fast, etc... This isn't my first time cutting grass, and I've used different brands over the years, from John Deere, to Craftsmen, to Cub Cadet, and I've never had this problem, unless the grass was downright wet. The grass I'm cutting is by no means too tall or too wet. It just seems as soon as I hit a spot where it is a little thicker, and may be a little tough due to humidity or dew, the chute plugs. And usually by the time I'm done with a one hour job, the deck needs to be cleaned out. The biggest build up is on the left side, farthest from the discharge, and that is where the skip occurs when the deck is too full of grass. The dealer did say that it's possible that the engine RPM's are too low, although it's running full throttle. He said to bring it down, and they would check it out, but I'm not real confident that they will find anything or be able to fix it. From what I've read on here, the most common replies are to change blades and adjust the deck so it's a little higher in the front. I guess I'll question the dealer on those issues and see what he says. Has anyone else run into this and were you able to remedy it??? Thanks.


#2

K

kraky

The raptor SD 54 is a crazy great value for the money... if they gave you the wide-open deck design that they give you on the fast track they would never be able to keep up Manufacturing. Here are some pointers that might help out a lot..

Mow no more than one half your grass height at a time.

Mow when dry and at least two and a half inch cut height... it will be healthier for your lawn and will give you a lot more airflow. Sometimes just cutting another quarter-inch to half-inch higher makes an unbelievable difference in load inside the deck.
Slow down if you need to.
If these tips don't work move up to Gator G5 blades or high lift Hustler blades.
$80 Harbor Freight hydraulic lawnmower lift can be a big friend.


#3

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
The raptor SD 54 is a crazy great value for the money... if they gave you the wide-open deck design that they give you on the fast track they would never be able to keep up Manufacturing. Here are some pointers that might help out a lot.. Mow no more than one half your grass height at a time. Mow when dry and at least two and a half inch cut height... it will be healthier for your lawn and will give you a lot more airflow. Sometimes just cutting another quarter-inch to half-inch higher makes an unbelievable difference in load inside the deck. Slow down if you need to. If these tips don't work move up to Gator G5 blades or high lift Hustler blades. $80 Harbor Freight hydraulic lawnmower lift can be a big friend.
Click to expand...
You are kidding right?
A good mower for the money it is far from that.
This mower has had problems since the first day.
Very bad deck design.
Exhaust burning the grass.
Bolts coming loose.
Drive brackets breaking.
Even in perfect mowing conditions. ( dry short grass) the cut quality sux.


#4

K

kraky

I didn't have any of those problems with mine.... a 650 pound machine with big tires.... heavy duty mower deck....decent engine, 2800 series hydros ....good warranty and in my case a good dealer... all for $3,800.
I don't know what I could have bought that would have been a better value.


#5

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
I didn't have any of those problems with mine.... a 650 pound machine with big tires.... heavy duty mower deck....decent engine, 2800 series hydros ....good warranty and in my case a good dealer... all for $3,800. I don't know what I could have bought that would have been a better value.
Click to expand...

Toro ss5000 $3000
Better cut quality.
Better drives.
Better deck blast threw tall wet grass.


#6

M

michigan_Rapter sd

never had any problems with mine the the first couple of months - mows great in my thick grass - only thing i did was before the first cut I coated the bottom of the deck with slip coat as I have all my mowers to stuff doesn't stick - mows perfectly flat - way better than my cub cadet did


#7

K

kraky

I probably would have looked at the toro 5000 except our local dealer had just quit Toro and decided that the Gravely Ariens units were a better value for him to sell. It's probably a good machine for around $3,000.... it does get good reviews for cut quality.
What I didn't like when I looked at the toro was the stamped deck...small tires...no hour meter... and lighter non serviceable hydros.
As far as the cut quality goes on my raptor SD 54 I put on the Gator blades ... it does a really clean job on my lawn and also did a great job on the 3 other ones I intermittently helped out last summer.
It did a nice enough job on my lawn that when I moved up to a fast-track this year and put my Raptor on the end of my driveway it lasted 2 hours before my next door neighbor came running over with his checkbook and he's getting a beautiful job with it too.


#8

T

turboawd

i cut a lot of very tall grass and had constant clogging
you need to get the oregon gator blades, which have more lift and blowing action. i also cut my deck opening to get rid of that corner that holds a lot of grass.
there are threads on here with this info


#9

A

akcooper9

turboawd said:
i cut a lot of very tall grass and had constant clogging
you need to get the oregon gator blades, which have more lift and blowing action. i also cut my deck opening to get rid of that corner that holds a lot of grass.
there are threads on here with this info
Click to expand...

+1 cut the corner and the clogging goes away. The gator blades also help a lot as well.

And bolts coming loose as a complaint...please, thats the lamest thing Ive heard all day.


#10

BlazNT

BlazNT

akcooper9 said:
+1 cut the corner and the clogging goes away. The gator blades also help a lot as well.

And bolts coming loose as a complaint...please, thats the lamest thing Ive heard all day.
Click to expand...

We have had at least 3 complaints on this forum for it happening. Lets see we are but a small forum. Probably only see 10% of the world problems. If we have seen 3 then there are a lot more.


#11

A

akcooper9

BlazNT said:
We have had at least 3 complaints on this forum for it happening. Lets see we are but a small forum. Probably only see 10% of the world problems. If we have seen 3 then there are a lot more.
Click to expand...

3 mowers with a loose bolt and that makes a bad mower...wow. I mean if 3 = 10% then what 100% = 30 that had loose bolts out of how many sold?

Ever had a loose lug nut? Did that make a bad car?

I would think dealer prep has more to do with loose bolts then it being a bad mower.


#12

BlazNT

BlazNT

akcooper9 said:
3 mowers with a loose bolt and that makes a bad mower...wow. I mean if 3 = 10% then what 100% = 30 that had loose bolts out of how many sold?

Ever had a loose lug nut? Did that make a bad car?

I would think dealer prep has more to do with loose bolts then it being a bad mower.
Click to expand...

No it does not make it a bad mower. It is not a loose bolt it is all the bolts that hold on the drive motor. That would make 6 or 8. I personally don't have an opinion on the Raptor or Raptor SD. I don't us one and never had. I was just responding to your answer. Dealer prep as far as I know does not touch the drives as they are installed in the factory. Quality control would have that distinction. I personally have only one thing to say about the Raptor model. Greed is what created that line pure and simple greed. Hustler is a great brand and I can not believe they would lower there standards to sale more mowers. It is an untapped market for them but is it really worth ruining your reputation for that. Hustler should have stayed in the commercial mower market as with John Deere, Cub Cadet, and the list goes on. Plenty of mower companies for consumers that work well.

End of rant.


#13

K

kraky

It seems a little stunning to think that a company that sees a Marketplace is active is therefor "greedy". What these companies are seeing is that people that formerly bought lawn tractors are now ready for the zero turn Market but they can't afford the $6,000 units. I hardly ever saw Zero Turn Around this town 10 years ago but now they're all over the place. Of course the challenge is to build something of quality when you're only going to try and sell it for $3,000. If you ever took the fender shell off some of these lawn tractors that sell for $3,000 and looked at the frame and single Hydro you would just about fall over how lite everything is. I know because I worked at a John Deere dealership for 30 years. And of course most lawn tractors only mowed at 5 miles an hour and now these $3,000 zero turns are zipping around at 7 or 8 miles an hour and trying to stay together.
In all honesty I'm pretty shocked when I look at the components of a $3,800 Hustler and compare it to what I saw on $4,000 John Deere lawn tractors 15 years ago..... believe me component wise there's a whole lot more in the Hustler. Now whether or not the engineers have everything exactly perfectly put-together is another story.... and is probably the center of the debate here.


#14

Carscw

Carscw

I knew someone would bring up johndeere
You can not compare a $4000 JD to any other $4000 mower. JD will lose every time.

I used a SD for two weeks I hated it. The deck clogged very easy.
It was not good on hills.
The drives are to weak.
I will stick with my Toro's for less money.


#15

BlazNT

BlazNT

I think it it greed because they seem to be a very healthy company doing very well for them selves. Yet still need to build consumer grade (aka crap). It may be better crap then the other brands I truly don't know but it is a real step down from their commercial line. I know all about John Deere. I think the old saying applies here on your talking about zero turn mowers. "If you build it they will come."
They could have come to a $4000.00 dollar price mark too but cheap cost and high profit is the greed of this century. I do not hate anybody or company for it I just can't believe how many people can be led around by the nose and not even know it. I for one am much smarter than that. I research all my purchases and include all brands that I can purchase within a short drive or have delivered for a reasonable price. Price performance is more important to me then price or status.


#16

K

kraky

Carscw said:
I knew someone would bring up johndeere
You can not compare a $4000 JD to any other $4000 mower. JD will lose every time.

I used a SD for two weeks I hated it. The deck clogged very easy.
It was not good on hills.
The drives are to weak.
I will stick with my Toro's for less money.
Click to expand...

That's kind of funny.... between the economical John Deere Sabre line... and the upscale John Deere's we ran pretty much every other dealer out of town. We serviced a town of 4000 plus a rural area... we sold between 200 and 350 ride on units every year and 50 compact tractors. We did 2 million in lawn and garden sales. But...John Deere knows how to engineer things to make a profit there's no doubt about it.

I'm curious about your constant claims that the 2800 hydros are weak on the raptor SD.... could you tell us more about that experience.?


#17

BlazNT

BlazNT

kraky said:
That's kind of funny.... between the economical John Deere Sabre line... and the upscale John Deere's we ran pretty much every other dealer out of town. We serviced a town of 4000 plus a rural area... we sold between 200 and 350 ride on units every year and 50 compact tractors. We did 2 million in lawn and garden sales. But...John Deere knows how to engineer things to make a profit there's no doubt about it.

I'm curious about your constant claims that the 2800 hydros are weak on the raptor SD.... could you tell us more about that experience.?
Click to expand...

How much did the service department make each year?


#18

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
That's kind of funny.... between the economical John Deere Sabre line... and the upscale John Deere's we ran pretty much every other dealer out of town. We serviced a town of 4000 plus a rural area... we sold between 200 and 350 ride on units every year and 50 compact tractors. We did 2 million in lawn and garden sales. But...John Deere knows how to engineer things to make a profit there's no doubt about it. I'm curious about your constant claims that the 2800 hydros are weak on the raptor SD.... could you tell us more about that experience.?
Click to expand...

The mower slows down to much going up steep hills. I drives whine. A lot of times when turning the side that should be going in reverse will stop moving. I am betting it is not the drives them self but the drive belt set up is letting the belt slip.

I have many mowers over 50.
I know a poor built mower when I see it.

As far as junkdeere goes people will keep buying them for the name. But people that know about mowers know they are the bottom of the list.


#19

N

NorthernTown

turboawd said:
i also cut my deck opening to get rid of that corner that holds a lot of grass.
there are threads on here with this info
Click to expand...


That's the first thing I thought of even before I bought it, because when I looked at the discharge, I wondered why they didn't leave it completely open. I even questioned the dealer on whether they had any complaints on the discharge clogging, and he said out of the thirty + he sold, he could remember only one that complained. I thought maybe it had something to do with air flow plus I hated the idea of having to take my cutting torch to a brand new mower to make it work. I guess maybe I'll have to cut the deck opening if the dealer doesn't resolve it. I was looking for a mower that would cut the grass with no trouble if for some reason (weather or work) I didn't get it cut when it should have and it got a little tall or thick or was still a little damp. So far, this Hustler is not the answer, and is actually the worse of any brands I've previously used for clogging and grass hanging up underneath the deck. I doubt that the dealer will be able to come up with any answers either, but who knows. Maybe I'll have to try the Gator blades.


#20

BlazNT

BlazNT

I have a friend that has a John Deere Lawn tractor down the street. I asked him one day why a JD. He said My grandpa and dad have always bought them so I did too. I asked did you compare it to any other mower. His answer was no.

Lead around by the nose. Sheep mentality. Maybe more like lemmings mentality.


#21

A

akcooper9

NorthernTown said:
That's the first thing I thought of even before I bought it, because when I looked at the discharge, I wondered why they didn't leave it completely open. I even questioned the dealer on whether they had any complaints on the discharge clogging, and he said out of the thirty + he sold, he could remember only one that complained. I thought maybe it had something to do with air flow plus I hated the idea of having to take my cutting torch to a brand new mower to make it work. I guess maybe I'll have to cut the deck opening if the dealer doesn't resolve it. I was looking for a mower that would cut the grass with no trouble if for some reason (weather or work) I didn't get it cut when it should have and it got a little tall or thick or was still a little damp. So far, this Hustler is not the answer, and is actually the worse of any brands I've previously used for clogging and grass hanging up underneath the deck. I doubt that the dealer will be able to come up with any answers either, but who knows. Maybe I'll have to try the Gator blades.
Click to expand...

The gator blade and the removal of the triangle piece in the deck discharge opening will fix the clogging issues.

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showt...y-raptor-sd-54?p=212509&viewfull=1#post212509

E8yTSqh.jpg


#22

A

akcooper9

Carscw said:
The mower slows down to much going up steep hills. I drives whine. A lot of times when turning the side that should be going in reverse will stop moving. I am betting it is not the drives them self but the drive belt set up is letting the belt slip.
Click to expand...

I never experience these issues on my mower with 2800 drives.


#23

Carscw

Carscw

akcooper9 said:
I never experience these issues on my mower with 2800 drives.
Click to expand...
And what mower do you have?
I have a cub with the 2800 drives and they work fine. That's why I said i bet it is the drive belt set up. Many have complained about this.


#24

A

akcooper9

Carscw said:
And what mower do you have?
I have a cub with the 2800 drives and they work fine. That's why I said i bet it is the drive belt set up. Many have complained about this.
Click to expand...

Raptor SD 54


#25

Carscw

Carscw

akcooper9 said:
Raptor SD 54
Click to expand...

How big is your yard?
Flat- hills?

I used one for two weeks and was not happy with it at all. The cut quality was poor. Did not stick hills at all.
Put 70 hours on it and the deck belt came off twice.
I find that most people that buy this mower Is the first ztr they have used.


#26

Carscw

Carscw

Why would anyone buy a new mower knowing you need to customize it to fit your needs?
Why not just buy a mower that is ready to go?


#27

A

akcooper9

Carscw said:
How big is your yard?
Flat- hills?

I used one for two weeks and was not happy with it at all. The cut quality was poor. Did not stick hills at all.
Put 70 hours on it and the deck belt came off twice.
I find that most people that buy this mower Is the first ztr they have used.
Click to expand...

Yard is 2 acres of coastal Bermuda pastor grass. Ive got 80 trouble free hours over 2.5 season of mowing. But then again, Im not trying to use it for commercial use either.


#28

A

akcooper9

Carscw said:
Why would anyone buy a new mower knowing you need to customize it to fit your needs?
Why not just buy a mower that is ready to go?
Click to expand...

Really you've never bought something and then 'customized it to fit your needs'....:thumbdown:

I.E. bought a house--> painted a room a difference color. Bought a car put new tires on it. List of examples goes on and on.

Just to keep the conversation in check, I did not change my blades or cut the deck opening for the first year and half. I used it stock and smiled every time I turned the key :smile:


#29

Carscw

Carscw

akcooper9 said:
Really you've never bought something and then 'customized it to fit your needs'....:thumbdown: I.E. bought a house--> painted a room a difference color. Bought a car put new tires on it. List of examples goes on and on. Just to keep the conversation in check, I did not change my blades or cut the deck opening for the first year and half. I used it stock and smiled every time I turned the key :smile:
Click to expand...

Painting a room is not the same as cutting the deck on a mower.
I buy a mower that will do everything I need it to do. Without me having to cut on it or change parts.
My every day mower is 5 years old with over 2000 hours on it. I have never had to scrape the grass off the deck. And I do mow in the rain. Why because I bought a mower that I knew the grass would not clog up under the deck.
I knew the drives would last. And the brackets for the drive would not break.
And $800 less then the SD.
When I buy a new mower this year I will not stay with toro. They changed things and now don't fit my needs. This year will be a bad boy.


#30

L

LeakyGasket

BlazNT said:
I have a friend that has a John Deere Lawn tractor down the street. I asked him one day why a JD. He said My grandpa and dad have always bought them so I did too. I asked did you compare it to any other mower. His answer was no.

Lead around by the nose. Sheep mentality. Maybe more like lemmings mentality.
Click to expand...

A friend, huh?


#31

F

flightco

Carscw said:
Put 70 hours on it and the deck belt came off twice.
I find that most people that buy this mower Is the first ztr they have used.
Click to expand...

Am I reading this correctly? You bought a residential mower and put 35 hours on it a week? Why would you buy a residential mower if you are going to put this many hours on it.


#32

BlazNT

BlazNT

oops


#33

BlazNT

BlazNT

LeakyGasket said:
A friend, huh?
Click to expand...

Just because I don't agree with him does not mean he is not my friend.


#34

D

DK35vince

akcooper9 said:
3 mowers with a loose bolt and that makes a bad mower...wow. I mean if 3 = 10% then what 100% = 30 that had loose bolts out of how many sold?

Ever had a loose lug nut? Did that make a bad car?

I would think dealer prep has more to do with loose bolts then it being a bad mower.
Click to expand...
Its the bolts holding the drive motors on.
I've read multiple issues about it happening.
I know it happened to my neighbor Raptor SD.
The bolts for the drive motors came out and were falling off, and the top rear wheels were leaning in


#35

Carscw

Carscw

flightco said:
Am I reading this correctly? You bought a residential mower and put 35 hours on it a week? Why would you buy a residential mower if you are going to put this many hours on it.
Click to expand...
Yes you read it right.
It's all about the money not showing off.
My mowers are 2011 toro SS5000 they cost $3000 new. One will turn 3000 hours next week.

3000 hours
X
A average of $50 per hour
= $150.000
Subtract the cost of the mower plus belts and blades and 4 sets of bearings this mower has still made over $140.000
I run 4 of them full time.
Have never had to replace a drive or a spindle. The decks are still good.
The engines still run like new.

Why spend $10.000 on a mower that cost more to operate. I do not have to buy hydro fluid or filters. Save $200 a month.
Don't have to replace a hydro hose.

I can sell any one of my Toro's today for half of what they cost new.
My $12.000 scag is setting in the back yard with its 3rd bad hydro pump at $650.00 with 1200 hours on it.

Blades my blades cost $38.00 a set not $60.00.
Deck belt $14.95
I put more money in my pocket.
My trimmers and edgers are also toro. You get them free with a mower.

I cut 98 foreclosed homes a week.
My second crew cuts 125 a week
I sub out around 300 a week.
So what I am doing must work.


#36

F

flightco

Carscw said:
Yes you read it right.
It's all about the money not showing off.
My mowers are 2011 toro SS5000 they cost $3000 new. One will turn 3000 hours next week.

3000 hours
X
A average of $50 per hour
= $150.000
Subtract the cost of the mower plus belts and blades and 4 sets of bearings this mower has still made over $140.000
I run 4 of them full time.
Have never had to replace a drive or a spindle. The decks are still good.
The engines still run like new.

Why spend $10.000 on a mower that cost more to operate. I do not have to buy hydro fluid or filters. Save $200 a month.
Don't have to replace a hydro hose.

I can sell any one of my Toro's today for half of what they cost new.
My $12.000 scag is setting in the back yard with its 3rd bad hydro pump at $650.00 with 1200 hours on it.

Blades my blades cost $38.00 a set not $60.00.
Deck belt $14.95
I put more money in my pocket.
My trimmers and edgers are also toro. You get them free with a mower.

I cut 98 foreclosed homes a week.
My second crew cuts 125 a week
I sub out around 300 a week.
So what I am doing must work.
Click to expand...

I guess that all makes sense, I am not a professional mower so I just know I have heard on here many times about the difference between consumer and commercial duty but your experience speaks for it self. Next question, what prompts you to hang out in the Hustler section if you dislike them so much? Seems a little strange but you must be getting something out of it.


#37

BlazNT

BlazNT

flightco said:
I guess that all makes sense, I am not a professional mower so I just know I have heard on here many times about the difference between consumer and commercial duty but your experience speaks for it self. Next question, what prompts you to hang out in the Hustler section if you dislike them so much? Seems a little strange but you must be getting something out of it.
Click to expand...

Everyone that comes on this forum thinks there are Hustler or Husqvarna or Snapper "people" to fix their mower for them .With the exception of Robert Honda(I have seen Robert answer a few non Honda problems too). We are all just people that like to help people fix their mowers. I answer questions in every forum on here.


#38

Carscw

Carscw

I like hustler just not the raptor


#39

K

kraky

Carscw..... didn't those toros come with Kawasaki engines standard equipment? Wow... the kaws made 3000 flawless hours!


#40

RhettWS

RhettWS

I have only had discharge issues when the grass is very deep and wet. Even then I get about 1 good burp of a wad of grass that might fall out on the lawn and one falls out after I have parked it for cleaning. Invariably, this stuff hangs on the discharge side of the mower at that crazy corner. My grass actually needs to be cut twice a week now because it is growing so fast but, that is not going to happen. For the last couple of cuts I've removed well over half of the grass blades.

I couldn't be happier with the cut quality. I will probably add the G5 blades to help when the grass is very long. Some of the clippings are a little long and don't fall down in the cut grass. There are no windrows and the clippings are spread very evenly.

I've never had any grass hang up on the side opposite the discharge. Besides the silly opening in the deck which everyone has, I read once where the unit had the wrong sized pulley installed at the factory. As such the blade rpms were too slow.

Curious to hear what Northern finds out from his dealer.


#41

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
Carscw..... didn't those toros come with Kawasaki engines standard equipment? Wow... the kaws made 3000 flawless hours!
Click to expand...

All mine have kohlor pro's.
I will not run a Kawasaki engine.


#42

Carscw

Carscw

Love this engine. Hydro lifters never have to adjust valves.
More usable power then the Kawasaki 24hp.

image-2304916311.png

Attachments





#43

K

kraky

So what is the Kohler Pro equivalent to in the kohler lineup today.... it seems like they have a new engine line every three years.


#44

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
So what is the Kohler Pro equivalent to in the kohler lineup today.... it seems like they have a new engine line every three years.
Click to expand...
Not sure. I will call them and find out


#45

BlazNT

BlazNT

I thought it was like Pro then Command and now 7000.


#46

Carscw

Carscw

This is the same engine only made now for craftsman.
When I broke my air filter cover the only one I found used said craftsmen on it.

image-3626454109.png


#47

N

NorthernTown

RhettWS, thanks for your reply. That's what I would like out of my machine. I just want to be able to cut grass if it happens to be a little tough or gets a little longer than normal. I hope we can figure something out, but I'm kind of worried that all the dealer will come up with is that either the grass must be too wet, which it isn't, or I'm going too fast, which I'm not. I don't know, maybe I'm cutting it too short, but like I stated before, I've never had this much trouble with a deck on any other mower, and I'm cutting the same grass the same way. Maybe switching blades would help. My wife was mowing yesterday and had the same trouble when the grass was a little tough, but our neighbor was going along with his 10 year old Simplicity rider with no trouble at all. Later in the day when the grass dried down some, she said it worked fine, but who can, or wants to wait until 5 PM everyday to cut grass????


#48

BlazNT

BlazNT

NorthernTown said:
RhettWS, thanks for your reply. That's what I would like out of my machine. I just want to be able to cut grass if it happens to be a little tough or gets a little longer than normal. I hope we can figure something out, but I'm kind of worried that all the dealer will come up with is that either the grass must be too wet, which it isn't, or I'm going too fast, which I'm not. I don't know, maybe I'm cutting it too short, but like I stated before, I've never had this much trouble with a deck on any other mower, and I'm cutting the same grass the same way. Maybe switching blades would help. My wife was mowing yesterday and had the same trouble when the grass was a little tough, but our neighbor was going along with his 10 year old Simplicity rider with no trouble at all. Later in the day when the grass dried down some, she said it worked fine, but who can, or wants to wait until 5 PM everyday to cut grass????
Click to expand...

Even though your thread has gone off track. I hope you get this working for you.


#49

N

NorthernTown

BlazNT said:
Even though your thread has gone off track. I hope you get this working for you.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I know that happens now and then!!!! Thanks and I hope I can get it resolved, too.


#50

Carscw

Carscw

Have you tried high lift blades?
I find that gator blades clog the deck more. They are made to keep the grass under the deck.


#51

T

turboawd

Carscw said:
Have you tried high lift blades?
I find that gator blades clog the deck more. They are made to keep the grass under the deck.
Click to expand...

Did you put them on backwards? Lol


#52

Carscw

Carscw

turboawd said:
Did you put them on backwards? Lol
Click to expand...

The gator blade is a mulching blade.
The back wings throw the grass towards the center of the blade so the grass will stay under the deck. And get cut 4 to 5 times. This is the reason the grass cut clumped up under the deck. They are not high lift blades they are mulching blades. The reason they do not clog the shoot up as much as regular blades. Is because they do not discharge the grass as fast or as much.


#53

T

turboawd

Carscw said:
The gator blade is a mulching blade.
The back wings throw the grass towards the center of the blade so the grass will stay under the deck. And get cut 4 to 5 times. This is the reason the grass cut clumped up under the deck. They are not high lift blades they are mulching blades. The reason they do not clog the shoot up as much as regular blades. Is because they do not discharge the grass as fast or as much.
Click to expand...

I usually cut deep grass lots, and bought all the blades hustler offers, including their high lift. The Oregon blades shoot the grass out the best and clog the least.


#54

K

kraky

Although the Gator blades are advertised to be a mulching blade of sorts under my raptor SD they performed like a high-performance discharge blade. The velocity and distance of the grass being thrown was increased considerably over standard blades.... and during fall leaf grinding 15 to 20 ft throwout was not uncommon.
I have a shallow drainage area between my house and the guy to the north which is always pretty wet during the Spring rainy season... one trick I learned is to hit that first.... when do the dryer areas last. I can tell from the sound of the deck in the wet area.... yes I'm getting some build up but by the time I'm done doing the dry areas it seems like the deck is cleaned itself back out due to friction.


#55

Carscw

Carscw

I use the gator blades in the fall and winter.
I don't run them year round because they only last 5 weeks at $60 a set.
My low lift blades last 8 weeks at $38 a set.


#56

K

kraky

Wow... you may be running a pretty sandy soil? Up here in northern Wisconsin the soil is heavy clay... the Gator blades are so hard that unless I hit something theyre just as sharp in fall as they were when I put them on in spring. 40 miles from here the the soil conditions are totally different and sandy. People from that area would bring in blades for Replacements and it looked like somebody had been grinding at the bottom of the airfoil.... sometimes the sand had even eaten through the blade at the base of the airfoil. And when people brought in their mowers for service from that area the mechanics would just smile at how spotlessly clean those Decks were.... we sold those people the lowest lift blades possible and they work perfectly.
The same blades here in my area were a total failure.


#57

RhettWS

RhettWS

NorthernTown said:
Later in the day when the grass dried down some, she said it worked fine, but who can, or wants to wait until 5 PM everyday to cut grass????
Click to expand...

I hear you on that. I cut when I can cut mostly. Most of the time dry, but often wet. Just the humidity here makes the grass pretty wet even without rain.

I will try to take some measurements on my mower this weekend if not before and I'll pass those along. Blade height under the deck, pulley size, etc. and so forth. I leveled my deck once just to check it out and it is almost dead level. If it is off, it is not by much but I will check again.

Another factor might be grass species, etc.. There is an exceptionally long thread started by Mooch91 that you should read if you have not already done so. He has Kentucky blue grass and he had several problems with the cut quality. I think with some adjustment it finally looked pretty dang good but he finally decided to trade up to a Fastrak. My grass is mixed, bermuda and bahiagrass with a sprinkling of other species. Others might be able to chime in on which grass types are harder to cut.

Maybe that Yankee grass is just tougher since its arse gets frozen off each winter. :laughing:


#58

K

kraky

Actually you nailed it on the head about our grass in Spring. The first six weeks of cutting around here our grass is like glue. In my immediate area there is no deck that will stay spotlessly clean the first 6 weeks. Once you get past those six weeks unless it gets really rainy almost any deck will stay clean. Come October when the leaves start to fall we have to grind them several times..... it does a phenomenal job of scraping our decks out for free.... then come next spring we start the cycle all over with the sticky season!
I think the fact that conditions are different all over the country between the types of grasses and soils are probably the root of a lot of arguments or shall I say debates that we have here on the Forum about blades and decks!


#59

5

577jersey

Carscw said:
Toro ss5000 $3000
Better cut quality.
Better drives.
Better deck blast threw tall wet grass.
Click to expand...
What drives are in that toro?? 3100??
If so,,$3k is a great deal man,,dont know how they do it...My SD is awesome so far,,i cut crazy sloped lawns and some cow paths,,i just take it real easy over the ruff stuff.
It does need better tires,the discharge opening needs too meet my angle grinder,,and other than a few bolts upgraded or spun around the other way,,its been a great machine to me,,hope too keep it for at least 1000 hours..than i will look into that Toro for sure,,a fabbed deck is a must for me though,,I just cant deal with the stamped design..looks so cheesey to me....


#60

K

kraky

That Toro runs the light ezt Transmissions that Hydro Gear makes. They are self contained with no filters or oil changes... but they do have a pretty good record for staying together as I think carscw can attest.


#61

B

bertsmobile1

Carscw said:
The gator blade is a mulching blade.
The back wings throw the grass towards the center of the blade so the grass will stay under the deck. And get cut 4 to 5 times. This is the reason the grass cut clumped up under the deck. They are not high lift blades they are mulching blades. The reason they do not clog the shoot up as much as regular blades. Is because they do not discharge the grass as fast or as much.
Click to expand...

This is because the grass being discharged is in smaller pieces so when a clump hits the chute, it breaks up and passes through insted of bridging.
Much like the difference between tipping out a bag of sawdust comparred to a bag of curls.


#62

Carscw

Carscw

kraky said:
That Toro runs the light ezt Transmissions that Hydro Gear makes. They are self contained with no filters or oil changes... but they do have a pretty good record for staying together as I think carscw can attest.
Click to expand...

I love the EZT drives. The only problem I have had with them. Is I broke a axle on a 2007 toro. My fault I was running super lug tires. Got a upgrade kit for $140 came with a one inch axle and new gears. I still use this mower in my pasture.


#63

Carscw

Carscw

577jersey said:
What drives are in that toro?? 3100?? If so,,$3k is a great deal man,,dont know how they do it...My SD is awesome so far,,i cut crazy sloped lawns and some cow paths,,i just take it real easy over the ruff stuff. It does need better tires,the discharge opening needs too meet my angle grinder,,and other than a few bolts upgraded or spun around the other way,,its been a great machine to me,,hope too keep it for at least 1000 hours..than i will look into that Toro for sure,,a fabbed deck is a must for me though,,I just cant deal with the stamped design..looks so cheesey to me....
Click to expand...

I like the stamped deck I feel it gives s better cut.


#64

5

577jersey

Carscw said:
I like the stamped deck I feel it gives s better cut.
Click to expand...
Ok yeah,,we had an older JD with a stamped and the deck just seemed to have great suction and flow,,left a really nice cut and stripe...the RSD leaves a scraggler here and there,,especially if the blades are not sharp...all the mowers I had left scragglers though...alot of times it depends on the type of grass also.
Good to know that those lighter hydros hold up well.


#65

W

wingrider

Carscw said:
I use the gator blades in the fall and winter.
I don't run them year round because they only last 5 weeks at $60 a set.
My low lift blades last 8 weeks at $38 a set.
Click to expand...

I found a place to order them online that ended up at about $31 a set shipped.


#66

T

turboawd

wingrider said:
I found a place to order them online that ended up at about $31 a set shipped.
Click to expand...

Link?
I was getting them off ebay for just under 50 shipped.


#67

5

577jersey

Yeah,I need a set of G5's to,I have two sets of stock blades.
You have to watch those cheaper blades,,sometimes they are junk metal.


#68

W

wingrider

turboawd said:
Link?
I was getting them off ebay for just under 50 shipped.
Click to expand...

http://forestdepot.com/596-808-blade-gator-g5-hustler-18-1-2-in?search=596-808 I looked. They are the Oregon blades.


#69

BlazNT

BlazNT

That is not a gator blade but a cheep knock off.


#70

W

wingrider

BlazNT said:
That is not a gator blade but a cheep knock off.
Click to expand...

Well, here's the label on them. Looks like Oregon blades.

IMG_20160623_122611082.jpg


#71

Carscw

Carscw

Part number is not found on the Oregon site.

image-4139343420.png


#72

K

kraky

Seems legit here...
https://www.oregonpartsstore.com/596-808.html


#73

Carscw

Carscw

Well there you go then.


#74

5

577jersey

I had a few Oregon blades,,they are ok but not the best...I been running the xht blades,,they seem to be pretty hard,,not too hard to where they shatter but they can take a beating on sticks all day and hold an edge.Not sure if they sell a gator style or not??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-REPL-XHT-...425758?hash=item1c58e4109e:g:aFsAAOSwT6pV6PVJ


#75

K

kraky

I Ran those same Gator blades on my raptor SD last year. Every year before winter sets in I go around the house and trim all the lilac bushes and shrubs... raked a lot of crap including a lot of trimming from Evergreens out on the lawn. There was a bunch of half inch and under twigs. The Raptor went through em like nothing.
In five to ten minutes with two to three passes from different directions and you couldn't hardly see anything. Those blades were just a sharp after I did it as they were before.... it was no effort for the deck to do that at all!


#76

N

NorthernTown

Well, tomorrow I'm hauling it down to the dealer and they're going to take a look at it. Hopefully they can come up with something. He did offer me a trade-up to a Fastrak, which is another $1800, so we'll see what happens. I guess I'm not too confident they'll find anything wrong, but maybe the engine RPM's are too slow. Guess we'll find out tomorrow. Wish me luck!!!!


#77

K

kraky

Fwiw... I had the raptor SD for a year and then went to the fas track this spring..... Everything about the fastrack is nicer.... Quieter and smoother... it cuts better.... Much better traction.... Steering seems more precise.... I don't regret spending extra money one bit.
Everybody who's made the move says the same things I just wrote.


#78

5

577jersey

NorthernTown said:
Well, tomorrow I'm hauling it down to the dealer and they're going to take a look at it. Hopefully they can come up with something. He did offer me a trade-up to a Fastrak, which is another $1800, so we'll see what happens. I guess I'm not too confident they'll find anything wrong, but maybe the engine RPM's are too slow. Guess we'll find out tomorrow. Wish me luck!!!!
Click to expand...
The RSD 54 does leave a pretty good windrow when the grass is high and damp,,I find I most always have to double cut to make it look really nice..like I said,,that opening is going to have a date with my 4-1/2" angle grinder soon as the warranty runs out...Im going to cut the bottom bar off and make the chute opening quite a bit bigger....I bet its fine after that.


#79

K

kraky

I know my dealer wouldn't give me any crap about cutting out the corner triangle but cutting that bar off might be a different story. I'd start with the triangle and see if that's all you need. To me the only possible risk is if somebody got hurt by something coming out of that chut you might be letting the company off from any liability situation.?


#80

5

577jersey

kraky said:
I know my dealer wouldn't give me any crap about cutting out the corner triangle but cutting that bar off might be a different story. I'd start with the triangle and see if that's all you need. To me the only possible risk is if somebody got hurt by something coming out of that chut you might be letting the company off from any liability situation.?
Click to expand...
Yeah,,that ramp and the triangle need to go..I cant imagine how much better it would discharge without those in the way...I was thinking to bend and weld a nice piece of flat stock up and around the opening for a little more support after i do cut it,,if I still have this mower.


#81

N

NorthernTown

Well, I hauled it down to the dealer yesterday and they checked it out. They found the engine was running 200 RPM's slower than it should, which doesn't sound like much, but I guess when you transfer those to the blades, it could make a difference. They also put on the high lift blades. I tried it when I got home and WOW!!!! What a difference. It's a whole new machine. The grass was flying out of there like a dam*!!!! I even mowed some grass and weeds that were between 1-2 feet tall and it never plugged once. I did clean the deck out when I was done, but it wasn't too bad, and besides, after mowing that stuff, I would expect to have to clean the deck out. I also bought a set of the high lift blades for the 48" SD that we purchased at the same time. We were also having the same trouble with that one. The blades seem to have helped, but I'm also going to take that one down there and have them check the engine speed. So looks like for the time, I'll be keeping the Raptor SD's. Maybe in the next year or two I'll upgrade to the Fastrak. Thanks for all the suggestions!!!


#82

K

kraky

So.... am I right in thinking that you're running two brand-new sds on your property?
Wow!
When you look at the airfoil around the standard blade and the airfoil on the high lift or G5 Gators you just plain old everyday know there's going to be a change. I watched my neighbor mow his lawn today with the SD I sold him a couple weeks back with Gator blades on it... it was 8 in the morning with heavy dew and he got a beautiful job.... grass and mist flying out 8 ft.
I'm not saying the raptor SD deck is a top-notch design.... but with a little thinking and adapting it can do just fine even in tough conditions. Now start saving for that fastrak....lol!


#83

G

garretts lawn care

I have a hustler raptor 48 in cut and a fastrac 54 in cut both clog up bad so I guess I'm going to try the gator blades other than that they are great mowers plus I sprayed vegetable oil under deck and that helped a little


#84

N

NorthernTown

kraky said:
So.... am I right in thinking that you're running two brand-new sds on your property?
Wow!
When you look at the airfoil around the standard blade and the airfoil on the high lift or G5 Gators you just plain old everyday know there's going to be a change. I watched my neighbor mow his lawn today with the SD I sold him a couple weeks back with Gator blades on it... it was 8 in the morning with heavy dew and he got a beautiful job.... grass and mist flying out 8 ft.
I'm not saying the raptor SD deck is a top-notch design.... but with a little thinking and adapting it can do just fine even in tough conditions. Now start saving for that fastrak....lol!
Click to expand...


Yeah, I kept the Raptor SD's. I'm going to take the 48" down and have them check the RPM's on that as I think the engine may need to be sped up a bit on that one also. I'm thinking I'll run these for a couple of years and then trade at least one of them for a Fastrak, and see what kind of job those will do.


#85

M

Mad Mackie

Having been a mech, parts manager when I was recovering from injuries from having been a mech and service manager at various times in my 72 years, I have arrived at some conclusions.
Here are some of them:
There is no such machine that suites every ones needs.
There is no such engine that every one is happy with.
The lower priced machine owners have the most complaints about their machines regardless of the brand.
Machine manufacturers continuously change their machine specs attempting to maintain maximum profitability.
There is no such thing as a mower blade that satisfies all mowing conditions.
Stamped decks generally have better airflow than fabricated decks.
Fabricated decks are much easier to clean than stamped decks.
Machine operators seldom read their machine operators manuals.
Synthetic engine oil is synthetic engine oil, get it!!!!
Fossil engine oil is fossil engine oil, get it!!!!!!
Synthetic engine oil is not recommended in many situations, read the operators manual and follow the recommendations.
Fossil engine oil is not recommended in many situations, read the operators manual and follow the recommendations.
There is no such V belt that works in every situation.
Gasoline with ethanol is problematic but most of us have to live with it, use a higher octane along with additives that do their intended job.
When any machine is operated beyond it's intended design expectations, expect problems.
Zero turn mowers are dust producers by virtue of their design.
Purchase a machine with your operating conditions in mind.
Read the maintenance portion of your operators manual and do the maintenance.
Don't spend $4,000 on a machine and demand $10,000 worth of performance from it.
A side note, every machine that I own has been modified in some way to improve it's performance. Cars, trucks, shop equipment, power equipment, trailers, the list goes on with one exception and that is my Hustler X-ONE/Kawasaki FX730V/rear discharge. This machine is a working beast as it is!!!!
I even modified the ice cube maker in my refrigerator to make it perform better!!!!
I'm done for now, smile, now it wasn't as painful as you thought it would be!!! HaHa!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:


#86

N

NorthernTown

Mad Mackie said:
Don't spend $4,000 on a machine and demand $10,000 worth of performance from it.

Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

I can't say that I was expecting $10,000 worth of performance out of it, but I was expecting more performance than what I was getting with my Cub Cadet that I paid $2800 for 11 years ago. :wink:


#87

RhettWS

RhettWS

Northern Town,

Glad to hear the problem was found and all is now well with your mower. Nice to hear a success story instead of an absolute cluster.

Mackie was spot on with his comments. Hard to say what each individual will expect between a 4k mower and a 10 K mower. For me it is a matter of more or less happy or hacked off. It is all a matter of degree. So far I'm happy with my mower. If I had spent 10K to mow my modest yard, I would probably be very happy with the mower, but sad I parted with a butt load of loot.

Rhett


#88

RhettWS

RhettWS

NorthernTown said:
Well, I also bought a set of the high lift blades for the 48" SD that we purchased at the same time. We were also having the same trouble with that one. The blades seem to have helped, but I'm also going to take that one down there and have them check the engine speed.
Click to expand...

NorthernT, did you ever find anything out about your 48" unit concerning the RPMs?? Just curious.


#89

H

Have_Blue

Mad Mackie said:
I'm done for now, smile, now it wasn't as painful as you thought it would be!!! HaHa!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:
Click to expand...

Mower wisdom for the ages Mackie. I read the whole thing, and totally agree! Well done!


#90

N

NorthernTown

RhettWS said:
NorthernT, did you ever find anything out about your 48" unit concerning the RPMs?? Just curious.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I haven't checked in in awhile. Yes, the 48" was also a few hundred RPM slower than what it should have been. They turned it up and we've been grass cutting fools ever since!!! They've really done pretty good but I believe I'm due for either a blade sharpening or replacement. I would like to try the Gator Blades, but the Hustler high lift blades made a world of difference.

Randy


#91

RhettWS

RhettWS

Glad you got that worked out for the smaller unit too. Sort of amazing what a few hundred RPMs will make. I checked mine and it was dead on for high idle at 3600.


#92

5

577jersey

Yeah the hi lift blades are awesome,,they suck up all the little twigs,pine cones,and what not,,then chop it up real good,,the stock blades dont have much lift at all on my 54.


#93

N

NorthernTown

RhettWS said:
I checked mine and it was dead on for high idle at 3600.
Click to expand...

I was wondering, exactly how do you check the engine RPM's on these?

Randy


#94

BlazNT

BlazNT

With a tach


#95

P

Pumper54

NorthernTown said:
I was wondering, exactly how do you check the engine RPM's on these?

Randy
Click to expand...

Check out this thread: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/38153-Tachometers-Seeking-Users-Info?highlight=tach

Tom


#96

5

577jersey

There is a mini tach you can get on ebay with an hour meter...they work very well,,i have them on all my other mowers..the tach is very accurate IMO.

Here is a link to the one I use...very easy to hook up,,just wrap the wire around a spark plug wire then zip tie and trim,,and select 2 cylinder for mode.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Dig...Black-STOCK-/141565475488?hash=item20f5f5baa0


#97

B

BoylermanCT

Just ordered similar tach. Does it matter where on the spark plug wire you wrap it? The Raptor has 4" of wire showing from the plug before it goes under the cover. Can I wrap it that close to the plug?


#98

5

577jersey

Yes,it doesn’t matter,,as long as you get 5 or 6 wraps on it you will be fine,,the one on my Husky is right up against the boot which is really close to the valve cover.


#99

1

1991stang50

turboawd said:
i also cut my deck opening to get rid of that corner that holds a lot of grass.
there are threads on here with this info
Click to expand...

Can you PLEASE provide me with some info on this? Or maybe a link to this info? Thanks!


#100

1

1991stang50

akcooper9 said:
+1 cut the corner and the clogging goes away. QUOTE]

Info please!!! How is this done?! Thanks!
Click to expand...


#101

P

Pumper54

1991stang50,

Check out this thread: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/38894-Deck-discharge
Tom


#102

5

577jersey

There is a little triangle section on the back side of the opening if you cut it out and make the opening square it helps a tiny bit,,not much IMO.
I did the mod and noticed a slight improvement,,but I guess its better than none :)

I just used a 4" angle grinder with cut off wheel then repainted...Ill post a pic when I get a chance.

The one thing that stinks is the opening needs to be cut back more to the next weld or angle,,only problem is the baffle is in the way and Im not altering the air flow on this deck it works good enough!!


#103

mhavanti

mhavanti

I watched a couple of ZD326 Kubotas mowing today in a large, high end neighborhood. They were mowing in damp grass with their decks set probably at their highest. Open decks, not diverters on either one and although throwing a nice pattern, they still left wind rows. I don't think the Hustler is any worse than any other brand. I may be wrong, but, those rascals aren't performing on penney's worth more than my RSD60.


#104

T

turboawd

1991stang50 said:
akcooper9 said:
+1 cut the corner and the clogging goes away. QUOTE]

Info please!!! How is this done?! Thanks!
Click to expand...

1991stang50 said:
Can you PLEASE provide me with some info on this? Or maybe a link to this info? Thanks!
Click to expand...

see this thread
http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/37728-hustler-raptor-sd-54-modifications
Click to expand...


#105

Carscw

Carscw

mhavanti said:
I watched a couple of ZD326 Kubotas mowing today in a large, high end neighborhood. They were mowing in damp grass with their decks set probably at their highest. Open decks, not diverters on either one and although throwing a nice pattern, they still left wind rows. I don't think the Hustler is any worse than any other brand. I may be wrong, but, those rascals aren't performing on penney's worth more than my RSD60.
Click to expand...

I cut in the rain all the time. Sure glad I have a toro. Never any clumps or rows of grass. Oh and it cost $1000 less then the SD.


#106

RDA.Lawns

RDA.Lawns

Carscw said:
I cut in the rain all the time. Sure glad I have a toro. Never any clumps or rows of grass. Oh and it cost $1000 less then the SD.
Click to expand...

Love my toros open baffels and go wet grass tall grass tall wet grass No rows no clumps even spreading of grass clippings.


#107

5

577jersey

Carscw said:
I cut in the rain all the time. Sure glad I have a toro. Never any clumps or rows of grass. Oh and it cost $1000 less then the SD.
Click to expand...
Well that might be true down there in that part of the country but up here in the northeast you will be throwin clumps with any mower when its wet,,especially if your cutting thick wet crab grass with clover and every other kind of weed...no way around that bud.


#108

Carscw

Carscw

577jersey said:
Well that might be true down there in that part of the country but up here in the northeast you will be throwin clumps with any mower when its wet,,especially if your cutting thick wet crab grass with clover and every other kind of weed...no way around that bud.
Click to expand...
We have crab grass down here. Mostly thick blade fescue.


#109

1

1991stang50

thanks everyone! I plan on doing a little cutting today....


#110

5

577jersey

Carscw said:
We have crab grass down here. Mostly thick blade fescue.
Click to expand...
Crab grass is the only one I really ever had any problem with but as much as I hate it the crab grass keeps me busy when things get dry cause it keeps keepin on.


#111

B

BoylermanCT

Yesterday I cut my deflector chute way back on my RSD, and this made a huge difference in my deck clogging problems. I don't have a clogging problem with my lawn, but my 2 acre field out back has grass that seems to hold more moisture and grows more than lawn grass, so even when it has not rained in 3-4 days and the lawn is completely dry, the grass in the field is very lush. My lawn grew 2 inches last week, and the field grew 4-5 inches. I mow both weekly, with the lawn set at 3.5 inches and the field at 4.

I have cut back the chute on all of the mowers I have owned. If you notice most pro's, they remove the chute altogether. Can't do this with the RSD since it is a top opening. I cut it back to 2" beyond the edge of the deck. Threw the grass 2-3 rows way which is 10-12 feet. So yes, I have to pay attention when I am mowing by the road, buildings etc, as the potential for throwing a rock is there, but I always make sure the discharge is pointed away from anything that can be damaged. But the difference in throw distance and the elimination of clogging was significant.


#112

T

turboawd

akcooper9 said:
The gator blade and the removal of the triangle piece in the deck discharge opening will fix the clogging issues.

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showt...y-raptor-sd-54?p=212509&viewfull=1#post212509

E8yTSqh.jpg
Click to expand...


looks like hustler updated the sd model a bit, and now calls it the sdx.
one thing they fixed is the deck discharge. time to modify mine!

aYIW2uMl.jpg


video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WC8rQM_HJ_o



#113

M

michigan_Rapter sd

turboawd said:
looks like hustler updated the sd model a bit, and now calls it the sdx.
one thing they fixed is the deck discharge. time to modify mine!

aYIW2uMl.jpg


video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WC8rQM_HJ_o

Click to expand...

and in removing that bottom area besides the triangle looks like they added a structural stiffening piece to the top


#114

S

Stingray69

Looks like it would be easy to weld up a stiffing bracket paint it and bolt it in place. This would add structure so the bottom piece could be cut out. It would also allow a retrofit without welding directly to the deck and burning the original paint.

Even though mine has never clogged I might do this to help with more even clipping distribution (clumping). I have greatly minimized it by raising the front of the deck 1/4" adding gator blades and putting a bolt and fender washer to prop the chute up a bit.


#115

5

577jersey

I was thinking to cut mine all the way to the end of the deck wide open.All you need to use is a piece of angle iron for a bracket.More than likely,the deck is going to bend in on the bottom not the top,so you should be fine with no bracket at all IMO.

So if anything,i would focus on welding a piece of 1/2"stock to the bottom front edge :)


#116

B

BoylermanCT

Had my first mowing of the season this week. Deck clogged completely once and almost clogged 2-3 more times. I was mowing damp, thick, tall grass out in my field. So I got out the grinder and cut out the triangle on the deck. We'll see if that solves the problem.

What would be the issue of cutting out the bar across the discharge chute? Is it that if you hit something solid, you could bend the deck wall into the blades? Seems like a remote possibility if you are always mowing your own lawn, and are familiar with the land. I don't think I have ever hit the deck hard enough to bend it.

The new Raptor SDX seems to have all of the things I added to my SD when I bought it last year plus it has the open deck. What does it go for?


#117

5

577jersey

Its still gonna drop clumps because the grass gets hung up at the end of the cut out...I cut the bottom bar off and cut the opening all the way back to the baffle,then I bent the baffle back some using a hammer.Works better but still not 100% clump free.I did not get any clogging since i removed the triangle,but still clumps.

Cutting the bar off the bottom did not make a huge difference for me,It was there just to keep things off the blade and for a little strength.As long as you are careful when cutting you should not have a problem with bending the deck.

The only parts I bent so far where the anti scalp wheel brackets,I put my wheels on the bottom hole cause the top hole does not do anything.I added a small piece of steel to them and bigger washers so they should not bend on roots any more during turns.

I noticed the clumping is a little less if you leave the chute down,the clumps come off the deck and the plastic chute drags them a bit across the ground and breaks them up.
If you have the chute bungeed open the clumps just drop out and you have to blow them with a blower to break em up.

The SDX is still going to drop clumps with that opening,the only way to solve it 100% is to cut the opening all the way back to the end of the deck,but like i said the baffle is there so that has to be cut some and re weld it.


#118

B

BoylermanCT

Thanks Jersey. BTW, I like your Youtube videos. The striping one with the drone is real nice. Really nice yard!

If I cut the bar across the deck opening, do I cut it where the yellow marks are on the pic below? I already removed the triangle in red. I'm going to mow a few times and see how the removed triangle changes things before considering doing major surgery on the deck.

RSD Deck.png


#119

5

577jersey

Yes sir,that’s correct,cut it right there where you have it marked,you will see the baffle on the inside is in the way if you go back any farther.
I cut mine back a few inches farther,I didn’t want to go all the way back because if you do then you have to do a small amount of fab to reinforce the baffle.
Not a huge deal but I just wasn’t in the mood yet :)

Glad you like the vids bro :)


#120

B

BoylermanCT

Mowed the field yesterday, and it was nice and thick. Deck did not clog or get build up since I removed the triangle from the discharge chute. Very pleased with the way it throws and disperses. I wonder why Hustler has the triangle blocking the discharge? Using high lift blades, and the clippings shoot out 10 feet or so with no clumping. So for now, I won't cut off the bar across the discharge opening.

Rear tire has a leak in it. I can pump it up and mow for an hour, but by the next day the tire is completely flat. Must have picked up a nail or something. Took the rear wheel off and will fill up the kiddie pool tomorrow to find the leak and then take it to the local tire shop. Hopefully they can plug a mower tire.

Local Hustler dealer is having a free pancake breakfast tomorrow. Tempted to stop by, get breakfast and talk to them about the new SDX. Maybe even consider upgrading to the 60" Fastrak. Wonder what the trade in value is on my RSD with 30 hours. I'm sure I can't afford it!


#121

T

turboawd

BoylermanCT said:
Mowed the field yesterday, and it was nice and thick. Deck did not clog or get build up since I removed the triangle from the discharge chute. Very pleased with the way it throws and disperses. I wonder why Hustler has the triangle blocking the discharge? Using high lift blades, and the clippings shoot out 10 feet or so with no clumping. So for now, I won't cut off the bar across the discharge opening.

Rear tire has a leak in it. I can pump it up and mow for an hour, but by the next day the tire is completely flat. Must have picked up a nail or something. Took the rear wheel off and will fill up the kiddie pool tomorrow to find the leak and then take it to the local tire shop. Hopefully they can plug a mower tire.

Local Hustler dealer is having a free pancake breakfast tomorrow. Tempted to stop by, get breakfast and talk to them about the new SDX. Maybe even consider upgrading to the 60" Fastrak. Wonder what the trade in value is on my RSD with 30 hours. I'm sure I can't afford it!
Click to expand...

just buy a gallon of slime and fill the tires and never worry about leaks again.

supposedly the sdx costs 700 to 800 more than the sd.


#122

5

577jersey

Glad its working better for you brother!!

I would just patch the hole from the inside,alot better than a plug...or just make sure you find the sharp object,remove it,and tube it :)

Or Slime it,,thats stuff works great too!! Especially with a slow leak like you have :)

Yeah Exel is really messed up company,they charge all that $$ more and you don’t get much at all.Just like the Badboy line up,they are Raptors,painted red with lights and a softer seat for $800 more they can keep it!!!!


#123

A

akcooper9

I've been meaning to post this for a while now but here is a picture of my version of the shoot mod. Works like a champ.

2017-05-12%2019.13.02_zpsw91nb1e5.jpg

Attachments





#124

5

577jersey

Thats exactly what I did to mine except I cut the bottom bar off too,works really good!

No more clogs,still drops clumps when it wet but if you keep the deflector down it breaks them up as it rolls them across the lawn.

Lovin the belt cover mod BTW :)


#125

A

akcooper9

577jersey said:
Lovin the belt cover mod BTW :)
Click to expand...

Me too! Makes it so easy to blow out the grass after each mow. Thank you for coming up with the idea!


#126

5

577jersey

No problem bro,Its alot better than taking them all the way off cause you still get protection plus you have the cosmetic look which I really like.
Looks like you did a little welding on the baffle there..Ill have to take a pic of mine and show you guys how i cut it..I may eventually just cut it all the way back to the end of the deck like it should be.


#127

A

akcooper9

577jersey said:
No problem bro,Its alot better than taking them all the way off cause you still get protection plus you have the cosmetic look which I really like.
Looks like you did a little welding on the baffle there..Ill have to take a pic of mine and show you guys how i cut it..I may eventually just cut it all the way back to the end of the deck like it should be.
Click to expand...

Yes, I cut it square and bent the extra back and then welded it. Stock, I could clog the deck mowing wet grass. Now, I cant stick it if I tried.

The deck covers are important to me as I have little ones that climb all over the mower!


#128

mhavanti

mhavanti

Was thinking of this the other day and figured rather than cut the stiffening bar from the front to rear and leave it out. I may take it off, lay it flat, weld it back on and then grind the inside top of the bar down to a 45 degree angle and then if and when I run the deck into a solid object as hard as I can, it should keep the front of the deck away from the blade tip. I can't see any reason to have the bar totally gone no more clippings than it can possibly catch.

I may run it without the bar before I weld it back in if I end up doing this modification.

I started a modifications photo folder in the Hustler Turf Equipment Customer Reviews and Issues in Facebook. Anything y'all mod, shoot me a pic or a bunch of pics and I'll post them over there and give you credit for them.

Try to do before and after shots if you will.

Here is the link if anyone wants to check it out. https://www.facebook.com/HustlerZeroTurn/

Oh by the way, that page has managed to help several folks get replacement units and warranty work even though some have been outside the warranty period. So, something good coming from it.

Run by and leave a review for your Hustlers.


#129

A

akcooper9

mhavanti said:
Was thinking of this the other day and figured rather than cut the stiffening bar from the front to rear and leave it out. I may take it off, lay it flat, weld it back on and then grind the inside top of the bar down to a 45 degree angle and then if and when I run the deck into a solid object as hard as I can, it should keep the front of the deck away from the blade tip. I can't see any reason to have the bar totally gone no more clippings than it can possibly catch.

I may run it without the bar before I weld it back in if I end up doing this modification.

I started a modifications photo folder in the Hustler Turf Equipment Customer Reviews and Issues in Facebook. Anything y'all mod, shoot me a pic or a bunch of pics and I'll post them over there and give you credit for them.

Try to do before and after shots if you will.

Here is the link if anyone wants to check it out. https://www.facebook.com/HustlerZeroTurn/

Oh by the way, that page has managed to help several folks get replacement units and warranty work even though some have been outside the warranty period. So, something good coming from it.

Run by and leave a review for your Hustlers.
Click to expand...

I catch nothing on the lower bar in my picture. I wouldn't waste the time to cut it out.


#130

5

577jersey

My bar is cut all the way off and I been mowing for 2 weeks now no issues,if your hitting the deck on stuff your cutting too low IMO :)
There is always a chance for that tree stump,root,or rock to find it but so far so good..Im very careful and well aware of my surroundings.


#131

mhavanti

mhavanti

I was making a slight joke for all those that like to drink and mow. lol


#132

mhavanti

mhavanti

Hustler Raptor Deck Chute Modifications and Upgrades.

Right way, wrong way, factory way along with several alternative ways.

If you are an owner of a Excel Industries Hustler Raptor of Big Dog Zero Turn with the grass catcher scallop on the top of the deck at the discharge chute. More than likely you have read articles on the internet via forums, personal testimonies or on one or more of the video sources such as YouTube and Vimeo, etc.

If you have given thought to modifying this discharge chute area above the discharge chute reinforcement bar. Please keep safety in the front of your thought process. The enforcing bar is a strong safety item that the manufacturer placed in front of the blade tip of the right hand side of their fabricated deck. The manufacturer makes an alternative over the top of the deck - deck reinforcement to help create strength for the safety of your deck.

Although this over the top enforcement helps the front of the deck from becoming bent rearward toward the blade tip, it does not help reduce the possibility of a foot accidentally going into the now opened up deck discharge chute. Considering that you are responsible for removing the manufacturer installed reinforcement bar, you accept the liability for any personal or property damage that may happen to a greater degree from objects are now able to slip deeper into the blade's cutting surface. An object (possibly human or animal) can now go in as deep as 4 inches. This would remove a foot before a person could move back. Remember, you, the end user are responsible for the damages to any person, animal or object, not the manufacturer. In the event you have removed the reinforcement bar completely, consider purchasing the manufacturer's over the top of the deck enforcement.

Alternatives to removing the reinforcement bar is to cut the height of the bar down to approximately 7/16" from the bottom of the bar so that the top of the bar is now below the top of the cutting blade. This will then allow the grass clippings to flow outwardly freely without interruption from the bar blocking the discharge. The material left in the reinforcement bar will help keep a foot from going into the blade. Of course there is always a chance of human error that may allow it, however, you will have given much less opportunity for that to happen if the bar is still in place. The remaining bar will also support the front of the deck to keep it from becoming slammed backward into the blade tip which is the reason it was there to begin with along with the grass catcher resting upon it.

This brings us to another alternative to the grass catcher scallop. If you remove the bar completely, consider placing a deck scallop block off plate. I will place a link to a YouTube video so that you can see how well they work in conjunction with lowering the reinforcement bar. Clippings don't fly up into the operator's face nearly as bad nor does it windrow as badly. Here is the most important part of the block off plate. Keeps the foot / leg on the outside of the deck due to the block off plate is flush with the inside of the reinforcement bar.

Right way, wrong way, factory way and alternative way. I'll let you all be your own judge. My choice is the alternative way. Cut the bar down, install a block off plate.

This is the abridged version of the video showing the lowered bar and block off plate. There is one more video coming out within the next two days that will have some still photos showing the original concept, design process, the mock-ups, materials test along with another cutting with thicker, longer grass while wet as well. The block off plate tests have shown this upgrade to the Raptor Deck Discharge Chute is a viable modification to help maintain safety for your mowing apparatus, the humans and animals in the area along with objects you may not want to cut down.

If this article and video was helpful to you, please subscribe to the youtube channel, give it a thumb's up (like) and hit the little bell at the lower right side next to the subscribe button to help us bring you further upgrades for the Excel Hustler and Big Dog Mowers.

Excel Industries, we can use some assistance in bringing these articles and videos to your purchasing customers.

Thank you for your time,

Max's Garaj Mahal
Max Hughes


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Upx46nmGVA


#133

D

d5coupe

NorthernTown said:
That's the first thing I thought of even before I bought it, because when I looked at the discharge, I wondered why they didn't leave it completely open. I even questioned the dealer on whether they had any complaints on the discharge clogging, and he said out of the thirty + he sold, he could remember only one that complained. I thought maybe it had something to do with air flow plus I hated the idea of having to take my cutting torch to a brand new mower to make it work. I guess maybe I'll have to cut the deck opening if the dealer doesn't resolve it. I was looking for a mower that would cut the grass with no trouble if for some reason (weather or work) I didn't get it cut when it should have and it got a little tall or thick or was still a little damp. So far, this Hustler is not the answer, and is actually the worse of any brands I've previously used for clogging and grass hanging up underneath the deck. I doubt that the dealer will be able to come up with any answers either, but who knows. Maybe I'll have to try the Gator blades.
Click to expand...

ever find a solution, i find myself in the same spot


#134

5

577jersey

Here in the north east the xht blades are working great.
The gator not so much.


#135

mhavanti

mhavanti

d5coupe,

Here is the video I made of the 100% correct method of curing any version of a blockage to your Raptor Deck Chute Opening.

This will solve your problems if you are having any.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/

Also, here is the fastest growing Hustler Mower Owner group anywhere if you'd like to join. We have factory staff, dealers, techs, engineers and lots of individuals that are willing to help out.

Hustler Mower Owner Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/HustlerMowerOwners/

Good luck,

Max


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