HRM215K2SX Blade Clutch Question

[snadlea]

A question on the stacking of the blade holder, spring clutch and driven disk onto the pulley assembly. A diagram that I downloaded from the from does not show a thrust washer between the driven disk and the pulley assembly. The Honda parts diagram from their website does. Is there a thrust washer. Also, is there a 10mm washer that goes between the blade holder bolt and the blade holder bearing. I would look at my existing setup but the blade holder bolt broke when my son-in-law was borrowing the unit. I have the main assembly but lost some of the other parts.

Thanks

 

[robert@honda]

A question on the stacking of the blade holder, spring clutch and driven disk onto the pulley assembly. A diagram that I downloaded from the from does not show a thrust washer between the driven disk and the pulley assembly. The Honda parts diagram from their website does. Is there a thrust washer. Also, is there a 10mm washer that goes between the blade holder bolt and the blade holder bearing. I would look at my existing setup but the blade holder bolt broke when my son-in-law was borrowing the unit. I have the main assembly but lost some of the other parts.

Thanks

There were some running changes to the blade brake clutch (Roto-Stop) on the HRM215; check your serial number (back of the mower deck) and compare to these images from the shop manual:

 

[snadlea]

There were some running changes to the blade brake clutch (Roto-Stop) on the HRM215; check your serial number (back of the mower deck) and compare to these images from the shop manual:

Serial number is MZBB-6372591 so it looks like the second diagram is me. I ordered a thrust washer - looks like I don't need it. I'll find something to do with it. Since the unit was apart I went ahead and ordered a new clutch spring. How does all of this work. When I put the blade holder, spring and driven disk together, the gears from the driven disk mesh with the gears of the blade holder. Is this correct? Should the clutch spring keep them apart? Since the whole assembly mounts to the camshaft, what allows the blade to disconnect from the motor?

Thanks

 

[robert@honda]

How does all of this work. When I put the blade holder, spring and driven disk together, the gears from the driven disk mesh with the gears of the blade holder. Is this correct? Should the clutch spring keep them apart? Since the whole assembly mounts to the camshaft, what allows the blade to disconnect from the motor?

The brake plate is hinged, and the brake spring forces it downward. This causes the pads on the brake plate to contact the driven disk, which helps stop the blade quickly when the lever is released.

When the operator pulls back on the blade control lever, the driven disk (which is tapered) is pushed upward by the clutch spring and the driven disk contacts the drive pulley (matching taper), which is firmly mounted to the engine's crankshaft. Now the blades are spinning.

When the operator releases the lever, the brake spring forces the brake plate downward, and moves the driven disk away from the drive pulley. The brake pads on the brake plate force the driven disk to stop.

Notes:
* The brake spring is stronger than the clutch spring. This ensures the brake is always applied as well as the blades are de-clutched when the blade control lever is released (no operator present).
* The thrust washers are only used on the original, aluminum drive pulley. Later models (and replacement drive pulleys) are powdered metal, and the thrust washers are not used.

 

[snadlea]

The brake plate is hinged, and the brake spring forces it downward. This causes the pads on the brake plate to contact the driven disk, which helps stop the blade quickly when the lever is released.

When the operator pulls back on the blade control lever, the driven disk (which is tapered) is pushed upward by the clutch spring and the driven disk contacts the drive pulley (matching taper), which is firmly mounted to the engine's crankshaft. Now the blades are spinning.

When the operator releases the lever, the brake spring forces the brake plate downward, and moves the driven disk away from the drive pulley. The brake pads on the brake plate force the driven disk to stop.

Notes:
* The brake spring is stronger than the clutch spring. This ensures the brake is always applied as well as the blades are de-clutched when the blade control lever is released (no operator present).
* The thrust washers are only used on the original, aluminum drive pulley. Later models (and replacement drive pulleys) are powdered metal, and the thrust washers are not used.

Sounds simple enough. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[snadlea]

The brake plate is hinged, and the brake spring forces it downward. This causes the pads on the brake plate to contact the driven disk, which helps stop the blade quickly when the lever is released.

When the operator pulls back on the blade control lever, the driven disk (which is tapered) is pushed upward by the clutch spring and the driven disk contacts the drive pulley (matching taper), which is firmly mounted to the engine's crankshaft. Now the blades are spinning.

When the operator releases the lever, the brake spring forces the brake plate downward, and moves the driven disk away from the drive pulley. The brake pads on the brake plate force the driven disk to stop.

Notes:
* The brake spring is stronger than the clutch spring. This ensures the brake is always applied as well as the blades are de-clutched when the blade control lever is released (no operator present).
* The thrust washers are only used on the original, aluminum drive pulley. Later models (and replacement drive pulleys) are powdered metal, and the thrust washers are not used.

Is the blade holder bolt torqued on? The only way I could get the bold to tighten was with an electric torque wrench. Otherwise it just seems to spin. Is it suppose to be tight enough so that the gap between the driven disk and the blade holder disk is closed?

 

[snadlea]

Is the blade holder bolt torqued on? The only way I could get the bold to tighten was with an electric torque wrench. Otherwise it just seems to spin. Is it suppose to be tight enough so that the gap between the driven disk and the blade holder disk is closed?

OK - I did find the Spec and it's 40 pounds. Problem is how do you torque it without turning the shaft?

When I torque it on with a electric torque wrench (which gets it to about 40) anmd try to start the engine the blade turns, even though the blade clutch is not engaged. What am I doing wrong?

 

[robert@honda]

OK - I did find the Spec and it's 40 pounds. Problem is how do you torque it without turning the shaft?

When I torque it on with a electric torque wrench (which gets it to about 40) anmd try to start the engine the blade turns, even though the blade clutch is not engaged. What am I doing wrong?

Use a block of wood or 2 x 4 wedged between the blades and rear discharge opening to keep the engine from turning when tightening the blade bolts.

If the blades are turning when you try and start, something is out-of-order, damaged, or missing in the Roto-Stop system. Is your drive pulley aluminum or dark gray powdered metal?